author

frarugi87

Inbox View Profile
151Comments

Tell us about yourself!

Achievements

100+ Comments Earned a bronze medal
  • Mini Regulated Power Supply Unit

    Isn't your "label" on the bottom wrong? Shouldn't it be 5A instead of 5Ah?

    View Instructable »
  • frarugi87 commented on DAZMAKER's instructable Sawdust Loki's Mask.
    Sawdust Loki's Mask.

    I haven't seen "The Mask" in probably 15-20 years, but I recognized the mask from the very first picture I saw. So... Very good work! it is very realisticThank you

    View Instructable »
  • Pi Tape - Easily Measure the Diameter of Anything

    Why are you using a 3.14cm sheet as a template instead of marking the multiples on the tape? I mean if you make a (let's say) 0.5mm error for each measurement, with the template you sum that error every time (so the second tick will have 1mm error, the third 1.5mm), while using the ruler and marking 3.14, 6.28, ... will "reset" the error at every tick

    View Instructable »
  • frarugi87 commented on LiabilityLabs's instructable HeadLamp
    HeadLamp

    Well, I thought a headlamp was a lamp FOR the head, not a lamp WITH the head, but... well, this is creepy enough :)

    View Instructable »
  • Model Train Lights

    I saw something similar in the past with pen housings. Just take an old BIC, empty it, cut the extremes and use sandpaper on the outside and silicone on the inside to better spread the light. Use one high-brightness LED per side and you get a 10cm light.Disclaimer: I never tried to reproduce this, but maybe with some thinkering it will work

    View Instructable »
  • Kids Light Up Clock 2.0

    Good way to design a menu but... Isn't there an option to change the day of week? This means that if you modify it accidentally then you cannot use the day of week reliably without recompiling..NOTE: I did not read the code, so maybe it is just not explained in the menu

    View Instructable »
  • Slot Car Chassis for Bricks

    And then the song from "Lego Racers" started playing in my mind...

    View Instructable »
  • frarugi87 commented on NEW PEW's instructable Simple Flip Flop Circuit
    Simple Flip Flop Circuit

    Yes, this is not a flip-flop but an astable vibrator

    View Instructable »
  • frarugi87 commented on Frugha's instructable 7 Segment Display Array
    7 Segment Display Array

    I noticed that the intensity in SW is set to 3 (i.e. 7/32), which means that the total current consumption is roughly 4A, assuming about half of them are light in some time. Less than 100W, but still a lot...

    If I'm not wrong, the current you set is 5V/12k*100 = 40mA per segment. This means that, assuming 50% of segments are light up, the current consumption is roughly 20A (100W at 5V). Which seems a bit too much for me. So.. what is the actual current consumption of the display?

    View Instructable »
  • RC Arduino Domino Layer With Bluetooth App Control

    Whenever using a battery, I'd avoid using linear regulators (LM317, L78M05 on the L298 unit...). This is because the efficiency of your setup is roughly 55% (assuming the majority of the load is on the 5V rail), while using a switching converter you can go as high as 85-90%, thus gaining at least 50% more battery life.My suggestions:1) for the 6V rail: switch the LM317 with a mini360 board (smaller, and more powerful, and most importantly switching)2) measure the current absorbed by the L298 board; if it is below 1.5A in the worst case, you can use a mini360 for the 5V rail too: simply disconnect the 298 power input and power the board through the 5V pinIn addition, probably if the servo motors are not at the limit of their specs you can power them from the 5V rail too

    View Instructable »
  • 3D Printed Raspberry Pi Spider Robot Platform

    Just a question: why did you put two separate power sources? Is the 0.5V difference worth adding another battery? Do you want the rPI to be powered even when the motors get powered down for some reasons or it is just to avoid tinkering with the rPI power?

    View Instructable »
  • COVID-19 Social Distance Meter

    Honestly I'd avoid rising the voltage up to 7V and then use an LDO to pull it down to 5V. That's a waste of energy... Instead, use the step up to rise the voltage to 5V, and use it to power directly the 5V rail (and the arduino through the 5V power pin rather than the RAW). The battery will last 40% more time.In addition, in my experience for indicator LEDs like yours the difference between 5mA and 15mA is barely noticeable, so you can also try using 680mOhm resistors (and I think you will not notice any difference, but will consume far less energy, thus letting the battery last longer)

    View Instructable »
  • Pallet Wood Pencils (1,000 of Them!)

    Does changing the angle of impact in step 15 modify the final result? Maybe you can experiment the technique and get octagonal pencils just changing the impact force :PAnyway... This is impressive :) a very nicely written instructable :)

    View Instructable »
  • frarugi87 commented on Moose408's instructable Slide Clock
    Slide Clock

    I just went quickly through the instructable, so sorry if this was already answered.Why are the numbers in the clock "scrambled"? Probably it is more interesting this way, but is there a specific reason?

    View Instructable »
  • frarugi87 commented on bekathwia's instructable Easy LED Circuit
    Easy LED Circuit

    Just to be precise, the voltage is the one across the resistor, not the battery one (there is the diode drop). So for a blue LED (typical Vf is about 3V), the resistor will have about 1.5V and, for 20mA, this is 30mW. For a red LED (typical Vf is around 1.5V) this is roughly doubled (60mW)

    View Instructable »
  • frarugi87 made the instructable Acrylic Bending Tool
    Acrylic Bending Tool

    Just finished the core part. Still to be added: a fixed power supply, a regulator (I want a current controlled one rather than voltage) and a switch o automatically turn it off when I lift the moving part (so I do not have to move my hands from the piece to let it cool)

    View Instructable »
  • frarugi87 commented on douwe1230's instructable UV Curing Station
    UV Curing Station

    Just a comment on the divider: your assumption is correct when there is nothing in parallel to the 10k resistor. But if the motor has an equivalent resistance of, for instance, 1.1k when rotating, then the total resistance will be 10k // 1.1k = 1k, which then translates to 6V on the motor. A very poor way to step down the voltage, of course, but still working

    View Instructable »
  • Adjustable Wrench Super Mod

    Be honest, you got the idea from Lego, didn't you? ;)Great work :)

    View Instructable »
  • The Ultimate Component Storage System

    Wow! Impressive :) This only lacks voice control :P(for instance see the Jasper project)

    View Instructable »
  • Shelving With Concealed Toe-Kick Compartment

    Why don't you use a spring-based opener? Just like this: https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/utrusta-push-opener-8...You give it a kick, and it opens. Without holes or keys...

    View Instructable »
  • frarugi87 commented on JoeM114's instructable RFID Jukebox
    RFID Jukebox

    So you are using an arduino to read one byte from the serial line and put it back on the serial line? If all you wanted was a USB-UART converter.. Just buy it. No coding, no errors, no limitation on baud rate, and 1/10 of the cost.

    View Instructable »
  • Another Brick on the Wall

    About the last step (you used exterior paint to change the space between the bricks), why didn't you paint it before the transformation? Was it to save color or it will limit the adhesion of the mortar?

    View Instructable »
  • Solar Powered RGB LED Magic Pathway

    This is greatJust a question: is the light from 12 neopixels enough to light up the path (so you don't need further illumination) or it is more "decorative", and so the light produced is nice but not powerful?

    View Instructable »
  • Bit Driver Ring (3D Printed, Wearable Hex Bit Driver)

    You made the design as a "hole"; isn't it a problem when you try to screw/unscrew and the bit just moves away from the screw instead of turning?

    View Instructable »
  • frarugi87 commented on SparkyGiraffe's instructable One Pot Bolognese
    One Pot Bolognese

    This is the so-called "pasta risottata". I (well, my fiancée) made it a couple of times with cream and, ... well try it yourself ;)

    View Instructable »
  • frarugi87 commented on Spartacus7's instructable Castle Coffee Table
    Castle Coffee Table

    How is the glass attached? Is it just leaned on top of the castle? If so, isn't it a bit unsecure?

    View Instructable »
  • Erathostenes Apparatus

    It was not a single measure, and from what Wikipedia says the actual method got lost.In any case, since conditions are cyclic, you can just make a measurement today in one location and another in the other place next year...

    View Instructable »
  • How to Make a Custom Garage Door Opener

    Did something like this on 2 cars, but I used a 12V remote instead of a 3V one, so I could connect the power to the car battery line (in one car to the radio, in another it was connected in the fuse box - of course after a fuse)

    View Instructable »
  • frarugi87 commented on 8BitsAndAByte's instructable The Mesmerizer
    The Mesmerizer

    sorry, but.. Isn't the rPI a bit "too much" for this? Just for moving some motors I think that a simple microcontroller can do it...

    View Instructable »
  • 2000 Watts Induction Heater

    There are some questions raising from the instructable:- You never mentioned the power supply; since you speak about 2kW I assume it is a 36V/55A- You wrote the code of the fuse holders, but never spoke about the fuse rating; given the input, I assume 2x 30A fuses are neededIf these are confirmed, then since the connector is rated 30A; it may melt under 55A current, or at least you are at 2x its current limitation

    View Instructable »
  • Reuse Old Mobile Phone Batteries

    I suggest you to cover the wires going to the battery. Any metal object can make a short circuit and... well, I think you know what happens then...

    View Instructable »
  • frarugi87 commented on MnMakerMan's instructable Solder Fume Extractor
    Solder Fume Extractor

    I think the schematic with the LM317 is wrong; the R2 resistor is hooked up to the wrong point (should be connected to ADJ)

    View Instructable »
  • frarugi87 commented on deluges's instructable Table With Hidden Lamp
    Table With Hidden Lamp

    This reminds me of a picture i once saw.. A soldier instructor and a recruit:* Instr: "Private!"* Sold: "Yes Sir"* Instr: "I did not see you at the camouflage lesson"* Sold: "Thank you Sir"

    View Instructable »
  • Smart World Map With Data Screens and DMX Programmable Lighting

    I think that the 3 PCs are overkill; just one PC and you are doneThen, if you strongly need 3 PCs, for synchronizing you can use a lot of cheaper approaches (e.g. use three USB->serial, then join the TX of the master and the RX fo the slave(s) and you have exactly what you have here, without the nanos). Ok, maybe 3x Arduino Nano is still nothing compared to 2 65" UHD TVs, but...

    View Instructable »
  • How to Make a Softstarter

    From what I see, this circuit is used to limit the inrush current only.For instance, an inverter may have a very big input capacitor. When you connect the power, the current can be very high (even tens of amperes). When you put this circuit, the resistor is put in series with the load; at turn on the current is limited at 12V/3.3Ohm = roughly 4 A. This current slowly drops, due to the fact that the load's voltage slowly increases. After some time (selected by C1, R2, R3, and is around 0.5-1s for these values) Q1 starts conducing, and so the relay closes, bypassing the resistor (and so avoiding wasting power on it)

    View Instructable »
  • DIY Risk-like Board Game (like a Pro)

    This is awesome.. Looks like a "professional" gameJust a question: did you use "normal" paper to print the map and cards? Or you used glossy paper or added a protection layer to make them more "time-proof"?

    View Instructable »
  • frarugi87 commented on Crow Builds's instructable Neon Fallout Sign

    Since you confirm these are EL wires, please fix the instructable... EL wire is not LEDRegarding the instructable, thank you. I have an EL wire string and now I know what I can do with it ;)

    Can you confirm these are LED ropes? If so, where did you buy them? I never saw them..To me they look like EL wires (which are not LEDs, and work in a completely different way)

    View Instructable »
  • frarugi87 commented on mblaz's instructable Reaction Training Dummy

    Why are you programming the AtMega off-PCB, and do not include an ICSP connector (like you did for the serial connection)?

    View Instructable »
  • Last pictures seem like an X-Wing on the forest moon of Endor.. wonderful!

    View Instructable »
  • Pretty impressive! It's a great work.anyway... "The ramen broth is made of two-part resin" I admit I did not know this... I thought it was water and meat :P

    View Instructable »
  • Just a question: why did you limit the current changing the voltage and not the inverse? Isn't it easier to control the luminosity by changing the current?

    View Instructable »
  • Great work... I like itJust a tip; the wheel seems made of plastic. This sometimes slip. You can use a small rubber band around it to increase the grip (if the case has enough clearance)

    View Instructable »
  • Just my 2 cents.1) I think it is better to draw the schematic in a better way, so that it can be understood easily at a glance. This means, for instance, that the "logic" flow goes from left to right. I'm speaking specifically about the power supply circuit (T3, IC2, ...) which at first I thought was an output; it took me some time to analyse it and understand it was the power. If you put it on the left side of the uC then it is obvious. NOTE: I'm not one that follows this 100% of times, but anyway this is an advice I think is worth remembering when drawing2) I did not measure the clearances, but it seems to me that your high voltage traces are way too close one another. For 230V, the minimum distance two traces should have is in the range of several millimeters (3mm, if I'm not…

    see more »

    Just my 2 cents.1) I think it is better to draw the schematic in a better way, so that it can be understood easily at a glance. This means, for instance, that the "logic" flow goes from left to right. I'm speaking specifically about the power supply circuit (T3, IC2, ...) which at first I thought was an output; it took me some time to analyse it and understand it was the power. If you put it on the left side of the uC then it is obvious. NOTE: I'm not one that follows this 100% of times, but anyway this is an advice I think is worth remembering when drawing2) I did not measure the clearances, but it seems to me that your high voltage traces are way too close one another. For 230V, the minimum distance two traces should have is in the range of several millimeters (3mm, if I'm not wrong, and at least 6mm from the low voltage part). In your case some traces are way too close, which means it will fail sooner or later. And moreover the low voltage part is embedded into the high voltage one, so please consider it risky too. Luckily you will always use it when you are supervising it, so any flame can be detected instantly (you will, won't you?)As for the rest of the circuit, I was not sure about how you detect the current flowing in the saw. The only explanation I gave to it (but I cannot confirm, since no source code is provided) is that the atmel gives pulses and detect the current; when it senses current it increases the pulse duration. Does it work this way?Best regards

    View Instructable »
  • I think you are out-of-spec for both a router battery and, definitely, for a UPS.The specification for your items are:- Battery: 3.7V, 4.8A current max- 12V step up: max 2A- Lithium battery charger: 1AIf you want to use the 12V output only, the router you have has a 12V 1A input. This means that the current required from the battery is 12V*1A/3.7V = 3.2A. The battery can sustain that, but I'm not sure about the boost (the maximum output current of 2A is probably at very low voltages, not at 3x the input voltage). Probably the 1A current for the router is the absolute maximum one, but some more calculations are needed. For sure you can't charge your mobile while the router is powered...Regarding the UPS usage, so using it while it is plugged in, the charger output of 1A will never be able …

    see more »

    I think you are out-of-spec for both a router battery and, definitely, for a UPS.The specification for your items are:- Battery: 3.7V, 4.8A current max- 12V step up: max 2A- Lithium battery charger: 1AIf you want to use the 12V output only, the router you have has a 12V 1A input. This means that the current required from the battery is 12V*1A/3.7V = 3.2A. The battery can sustain that, but I'm not sure about the boost (the maximum output current of 2A is probably at very low voltages, not at 3x the input voltage). Probably the 1A current for the router is the absolute maximum one, but some more calculations are needed. For sure you can't charge your mobile while the router is powered...Regarding the UPS usage, so using it while it is plugged in, the charger output of 1A will never be able to sustain the 3.2A current required. For this reason, you can't use it as a usual UPS.

    View Instructable »
  • frarugi87 commented on TheTNR's instructable VORONOI HEART LAMP

    What is the purpose of step 8? Is it to have a clear finish without having to use finer and finer sandpaper?For clarity, moreover, I'd invert steps 4 (Making epoxy) and 5 (Assemble Voronoi Heart and Led), since you have a limited time to pour the epoxy (and so it is better to have the heart already assembled before mixing the epoxy)

    View Instructable »
  • frarugi87 commented on DiggingFox's instructable Resistor Organizer

    I did something similar, but with 1.5ml test tubes (for SMD resistors).One thing I suggest you is to organise them in rows of 12 elements. Why? Because the resistors values are arranged in the E12 or E24 values range; the E12 is 12 values in a decade, so if you organise them in 12 elements rows you will have them sorted properly. If you have an E24 series you will have two rows occupied by one series, and then this will start again.In my setup I use some 72-holes containers (6 rows 12 columns), and I managed to store three decades of E24 resistors in a single box; consequently I have a 1-910 ohm box, a 1k-910k box and a >1M box (ok, this is not full, so I also have other values in this one).

    View Instructable »
  • To reduce the complexity you could have wired only the D+, D-, GND and VCC wires. You would have lost the USB3 speed on the second drive, but... who needs it on a 32GB drive?Regarding the project, instead of a relay (which is large) you could have used just two MOSFETsFor the rest, good idea and good execution :)

    View Instructable »
  • You can also make the drive inside the cable more secure through some SW like VeraCrypt. I never used it, but it was my top choice when I was researching ways to hide personal information on USB drives.

    View Instructable »
  • Isn't it a bit risky to set the 5V DC-DC voltage AFTER mounting? this way if the screw is turned all the way to the 12V it will fry. It's better to set it before mounting, or at least turn the screw all the way to the 0V and then slowly increase while monitoring. Or the best solution IMHO: include a series element (a resettable fuse, a 0 ohm resistor, ...) that you do not mount at first, then set the voltage to 5V, then mount it as a last step to power the rest of the board

    View Instructable »
  • Sometimes you just don't have any choice... Just like when me and my GF were searching for an apartment and the two-bowl sink was a must... FYI, one bowl for dirt dishes, one for soapy ones.

    View Instructable »
  • Yeah, we'll try that as soon as we got some time to tinker with it. Thank you :)

    View Instructable »
  • The BOM file cannot be downloaded; is it just me or it happens to other too?

    Yes, it works thanks :)Just a couple of things:1) there are some 10 ohm resistors; are they really 10 ohm or they are 10k?2) the images of the schematic are not very clear; maybe it is better to include the full resolution ones too as attachment (or, better, the schematic as a pdf)3) from the pictures it seems to me that the years print is 2019,2020,2021,2022,2021 (and not 2023). Is this a mistake?4) maybe it would have been easier to use the so-called charlieplexing technique rather than a full matrix, to save pins and componentsThank you for your project :)

    Thank you for your help ;)Just another question, since I'm not so much proficient with eagle: you can't modify the layout from the gerber only, can you? I wanted to learn something by slightly modifying your design (for instance switching PC4 and PC5 with PD0 and PD1 , so that I2C is accessible - for an RTC if needed) but without starting from scratch. Is it possible?

    View Instructable »
  • If you flip the cards deck, thus leaving the bent card on the bottom (or better, glue the bottom card rather than the top one), you would have had a much nicer effect IMHO

    View Instructable »
  • What about repeating the steps to apply a solder mask at the end?

    View Instructable »
  • Another Cobblebot "proud" owner? :P

    View Instructable »
  • Reading the datasheet, the sensitivity can be decreased bya) reduce the size of the sensor (which you cannot do)b) increase the distance (for instance put some plastic above the contact)c) add a capacitor between the sensor and ground.If you can't do solution b, then I suggest you to add a capacitor. I do not have these modules, but if I saw correctly the unpopulated pads in the top right corner of the board images are for this purpose. Just solder there a small SMD capacitor (10-50pF, in a 0603 or package I think, or a 0805) and the sensitivity should decrease. The larger the capacitor, the smaller the sensitivity (but do not go beyond 50pF)

    View Instructable »
  • You will need a USB host controller, like for instance this:https://store.arduino.cc/arduino-usb-host-shield

    View Instructable »
  • frarugi87 commented on Eric Brouwer's instructable LAN/Network Monitor

    I'm not sure whether the app you mentioned just scans once or continuously. In any case, I think this is designed to be on 24/7 and to consume very little power, while a Mac consumes, well, a bit more ;)

    View Instructable »
  • Good project :)Just one note: usually you should put a small resistor (usually around 200 ohm) between the microcontroller pin and the gate of the MOSFET; this is used to limit the current at the very beginning of the turn on. This is especially true when using high power MOSFETs and PWM modulation, and you use both in your application. Moreover I prefer to also put a pull-up (pMOS) or pull-down (nMOS) resistor directly on the gate to ensure power down when the microcontroller is booting

    View Instructable »
  • "I think I will have to wrap my husband the next time" This sounds scary... You are going to take him out of there, aren't you?

    View Instructable »
  • Personally I think that 50W should be enough (I'll use a 50W myself). As for the dissipator, I think you are a bit confused. First of all the voltage is not 12V, but 34. Then this is a stroboscope, not a LED lamp. This means that it gets turned on for a very brief moment. Looking at the code, the LED gets turned on for 200us every cycle, and the cycle lasts from 2200us to I think 6624us. In the worst case, which is 2200, estimating a LED efficiency of 20% (which is very poor) the power dissipated by the LED is roughly 100W * 80% * 200/2200 = 7W. Will a copper heatsink be enough? I don't know, but I'm positive about this. And in any case if you feel it heating in your hand you can shut it down ;)

    View Instructable »
  • I have a few comments/questions:- What is the point when measuring the voltage on the node between transistor and resistor? The Rds-on of the MOS is around 30mOhm, and with a current of roughly 0.5A this means a 15mV drop. Or a 0.3% of precision loss. Totally negligible- What is the purpose of the resistive dividers (R1-R3 and R2-R4) to measure the voltage? Your max voltage is 4.3V, and you are not usign the internal voltage reference, so the max voltage you can measure is 5V. Why are you dividing it in half?- Speaking of voltage references, are you sure that the 5V are stable? Even with the OLED? Personally I'd use the internal reference (and then you really need the R1-R3 voltage divider, but the resistors values should change) - You shouldn't drive a MOSFET that way; you should add a r…

    see more »

    I have a few comments/questions:- What is the point when measuring the voltage on the node between transistor and resistor? The Rds-on of the MOS is around 30mOhm, and with a current of roughly 0.5A this means a 15mV drop. Or a 0.3% of precision loss. Totally negligible- What is the purpose of the resistive dividers (R1-R3 and R2-R4) to measure the voltage? Your max voltage is 4.3V, and you are not usign the internal voltage reference, so the max voltage you can measure is 5V. Why are you dividing it in half?- Speaking of voltage references, are you sure that the 5V are stable? Even with the OLED? Personally I'd use the internal reference (and then you really need the R1-R3 voltage divider, but the resistors values should change) - You shouldn't drive a MOSFET that way; you should add a resistor in series (e.g. 220 Ohm) to limit the current peak at power on/off- Are you sure you can power the buzzer directly? (I couldn't find the data; what is the current it should get at 5V?)Thank you for sharing anyway :)

    View Instructable »
  • I could not understand the power button circuit. How is it supposed to work? If the switch is not momentary, if I understood it correctly when it is open the PI is not powered, while when it is closed the PI power is removed. If this is the case, I would have wired it in the opposite way; in your way, when the board is turned off the 10k resistor generates a 500uA current, which is low but slowly drains the battery...

    View Instructable »
  • In step 5's picture you are putting your fingers around the cables, since you have to rotate the encoder with your right hand and there are the cables in between. Maybe having them under the display (in the non-45-tilted area) would have been a better choice, wouldn't it?

    View Instructable »
  • This is awesome! Good work!

    View Instructable »
  • frarugi87 commented on mikeasaurus's instructable QR Coasters

    Maybe you can also pour some transparent resin on it, in order to have a flat surface and maybe a better look ;)

    View Instructable »
  • Maybe you have already answered this, but.. Why did you put the buck converter before the bearings? I'd have put it after (i.e. on the moving part); this way the voltage on the bearings is not important, can be noisy, and moreover you regulate it after the bearings, so the current on the bearings is also lower

    View Instructable »
  • This is a very cool project... or hot... ;)In any case, when you are done you simply turn on the tap to shut the forge off, don't you? XD

    View Instructable »
  • How does the resin "blend" with other resin? I mean, if I apply another batch of resin, will I see the seam? Both when curing (i.e. in a few minutes/hours from first application of resin) or after some time (e.g. one year after, to cure scratches for instance)

    View Instructable »
  • I would have appreciated more the photos of the steps, rather than the photos of the "ingredients" and then a single step telling "mix everything and you are done"

    View Instructable »
  • Just came here today and... This is horrible............ Really horrible :P

    View Instructable »
  • If it becomes "too hot to hold", doesn't it soften also the PLA?

    View Instructable »
  • frarugi87 commented on khinds10's instructable Magic Mirror

    What do you use on the tablets? I mean, do you manually open the browser? or you have some automated script or app that opens and browses to the correct website?

    View Instructable »
  • If you look at the code you'll find two basic functions, one for training a neural network and the other to execute the calculated values. Personally I've always preferred to train the NN on a PC and to just execute it on the embedded micro, but I think the author wants this to be an educational project.BTW the neural network he is using is called Multi-layer perceptron (MLP), and is one of the "historical" neural networks

    Can you further explain it? Cause I opened the code and inside there is actually a neural network, a classical MLP implementation which tries to avoid the light...

    View Instructable »
  • HelloI see that there are a few things missing from the code, so I'm asking them here. Basically the control of the system is1) if the temperature is less than 45°C, turn on the heater and circulate the air with the fan2) if the humidity is greater than 30%, circulate the air with the fan (and the silica dessicant will de-humidify it)Is this correct?

    View Instructable »
  • Maybe I did not explain myself enough for q1 ;) I read that the Vih was too high, so at least one stage was required. That's why I suggested you to invert the rPI output (and keep the transistor); the nMOS turns on with the 3.3V pulse from the rPI, and so you get a 5V output on the other side.Note, however, that if you want to power the inverters at 5V you'll need the LS family, not the HCT.As for the dual power supply, I think that if you want to properly isolate everything you'd better keep separate grounds too (and use opto-isolators on the data lines). This will also solve your level-adapting issue ;)

    View Instructable »
  • There are some inefficiencies:1) why did you put the inverters too? You just need to invert the signal outputted by the rPI. Or, if you prefer not to invert it, use a 74LS04 hex inverter (TTL levels) and use two inverters in series (you have 6, so you can convert all the 3 channels). A 5V powered TTL port accepts voltages as low as 2V for the high value, so even 3.3V logic is ok for them.2) why didn't you use the 5V from the HDD cable to power the rPI? you can easily avoid another cable coming out of the box....

    View Instructable »
  • First of all, this is impressive... O_OI just have a couple of questions, because here you showed a list of steps to assemble it, but there are a lot of unanswered mechanical, electrical, electronical and informatics questions (of course you could not write here a massive amount of steps, this instructable is already long on its own) ;)Mechanics: what are those springs under the shoulder? Why are they needed?Electric: this robot is a wired one, right? I mean, the power supply comes from the mains. Why did you use two power supplies?Electronic/informatic: so on the robot you have one arduino and one mobile phone. Are they linked (I mean, the mobile is used for "high level" control and the arduino for the "low level", i.e. the direct control of the servos) or the mobile …

    see more »

    First of all, this is impressive... O_OI just have a couple of questions, because here you showed a list of steps to assemble it, but there are a lot of unanswered mechanical, electrical, electronical and informatics questions (of course you could not write here a massive amount of steps, this instructable is already long on its own) ;)Mechanics: what are those springs under the shoulder? Why are they needed?Electric: this robot is a wired one, right? I mean, the power supply comes from the mains. Why did you use two power supplies?Electronic/informatic: so on the robot you have one arduino and one mobile phone. Are they linked (I mean, the mobile is used for "high level" control and the arduino for the "low level", i.e. the direct control of the servos) or the mobile is only used for displaying the face and the high level control is done through an external PC or something else?Mechatronic: what are its (or his/her, I don't want to offend if he/she is already sentient) capabilities? Optical recognition through the webcam, interaction, grabbing objects, walking, ...? Did you already program he/she/it or this is "just" the mechanical part (note the "just".. I feel a bit silly by referring to this work with a "just").And... Thank you for sharing. You really made this look very simple :)

    View Instructable »
  • Is this just an advertisement of your service or an instructable? If it is an instructable, can you explain how it works?

    View Instructable »
  • You are totally mad... This is impressive!Just one note: what if someone who can't swim follows the whole instructable and then at the end reads the last step? XD

    View Instructable »
  • I'd point out that teh capacitors are "bulky", which means they are gone (the top side must be flat for the capacitor to be ok).Moreover when dealing with this kind of equipment I have the habit to pass a screwdriver on the contacts (particularly the ones of the input capacitors) before approaching with my hand, in order to completely discharge them. And a lot of times you can see sparks....

    View Instructable »
  • In my opinion, that UNO is totally useless. You can save the money by just integrating the code inside the rPI.Also the two batteries are useless. Just use one (either the power bank or the lipo one) and use a proper circuit to power the other part (a buck converter if you keep the lipo, a boost - if needed - if you just keep the power bank)

    View Instructable »