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      • DIY Blue Fireball Using Hot Glue
      • Repairing My Broken Dish With ' Kintsugi '
      • Easy MK1 Arc Reactor Replica (From Iron Man Movie)
  • Concrete Calendar With Dedicated Phone Stand

    That's a great calendar. I'm certain the weight makes for a more attractive desk accessory. One can also use fabric dyes to change the color of the concrete; a little bit goes a long way. I have a hundred pounds / 45 kg of concrete in my garage waiting for this project (and others) I'm looking forward to seeing the files.

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  • Poor Mans Method to Take Photos of Water Droplets

    An interesting method, sort of hit and miss, but with the occasional not-miss. For those without built-in time lapse camera systems, Canon CHDK provides a firmware update (not permanent) that gives a menu for time lapse shots. It's a free download and opens up new avenues for many Canon point-and-shoot camera owners, and possibly some of the DSLR owners (I'm not sure of that aspect.)Great pictures, well done on the Instructable.

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  • 3D TIC TAC TOE (Laser Cut & 3D Printed)

    4x3 or 4^3 ?Yeah, the other aspect of 3D printing is the time involved. No so much the creation, especially since your laser files will translate easily, but the amount of time to spit out that much plastic!

    An interesting build. The side treatment of the Os appears to work quite well.In high school, (last century), I explored a similar game played on paper, which required a bit more visualization than the game you've created. Unless there are special rules, the first player will always win, in the full 3D method. It was necessary to move to a 4^3 design in order to combat that. I suspect one could create an entirely 3D printed version, but the laser cut aspect add a nice visual twist.

    With the variety of 3mm laser grade plywood, one could have a fairly colorful array of pieces. Each level could have a pair of wood types distinct from every other level. I was disappointed to discover the rather high price of what amounts to veneer over MDF, when I would have preferred layers of true wood.

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  • fred_dot_u commented on mcmaven's instructable Furious Tourbillon
    Furious Tourbillon

    This project is mind boggling. The reverse-engineering and construction alone is so impressive, but then to 3D print something that goes together as it should and works as it should leaves me speechless.Acetone does almost nothing to PLA. It will bleach out some colors, but doesn't even soften the surface. I've soaked parts in a closed container of the stuff and returned to find what almost appears to be sun-fade, but little else happens. I suppose it might weaken the PLA, but I didn't test that.

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  • Cardboard Horn Amplifier.

    This is a beautiful bit of work! When I open it, the page size comes in at more than 30 inches. Is there a dimension one can use to determine a more accurate scale? Perhaps a reference for the end of the horn edge?

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  • fred_dot_u commented on travderose's instructable IMac Cat Bed
    IMac Cat Bed

    This is cool to see. I recently dismantled an eMac, similarly futuristic shaped case and gave it to a friend for her cat. None of the internal parts, just unscrew stuff and you have a cat enclosure. The cleaning part can't be skipped though. If one lives in a cool climate, one could add an old laptop under the case and leave it on charge all the time (just kidding). Any warmth will mean the cat is that much happier!

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  • fred_dot_u commented on rschoenm's instructable Twisty Toy
    Twisty Toy

    From the seventies and also a bit later, an engine appeared in the world, known as a rotary vee. Pretty revolutionary in design, the "pistons" were rods nearly identical to the rods in this gadget.https://eatsleepride.com/c/3914/the_rotary_vee_ima...The page above also contains links to a series of YouTube videos, six parts of ten minutes of seventies quality video tape. From what I recall of my fascination with this engine, the designer lacked computing power to optimize the design. That was decades ago, yet nothing has appeared in this century.This gadget build makes it easy to understand the workings of the engine, as the rod ends have piston-like movement as the cylinders are rotated.Nicely done.

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  • fred_dot_u commented on skvely's instructable Cardboard Geodesic Dome
    Cardboard Geodesic Dome

    Only if it's lined or covered with aluminum foil.

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  • fred_dot_u made the instructable Cardboard Geodesic Dome
    Cardboard Geodesic Dome

    Cereal box cardboard, laser cut, laser "creased" to make folding easier. Some symmetry in the cut pieces, some asymmetry that is unavoidable. An entertaining project.

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  • fred_dot_u commented on skvely's instructable Cardboard Geodesic Dome
    Cardboard Geodesic Dome

    I've been fascinated by geodesic structures since I learned of them in the seventies (last century) and this is one of the better applications I've seen. It will adapt rather well to laser cutting for us lazy people! I can zap a bunch of pieces out of the sheets of cardboard and send them to my sister for her cat. Thanks for a great instructable.

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  • Laser-Cut Travel-Sized Catan Original and 5-6 Player Extension

    You've created an incredible instructable. The level of detail and quality in your build astonishes me. One must have tremendous patience to build such a work of art. Nicely done.

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  • Apprentice Maze Puzzle Box

    My wife's cow-orkers managed to dislodge the bamboo pin on the maze. Not really their fault, though, as I believe the wood glue doesn't bond well to bamboo. A bit of CY adhesive made a difference. The replacement pin is a bit stronger. I've posted a link to this page, the reddit page and your web site on the Lightburn laser software forum. Perhaps you'll see a few other builds as a result.

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  • Apprentice Maze Puzzle Box

    Inkscape is a free multi-platform vector editor. When imported/opened in Inkscape, the SVG file is correctly sized.

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  • Apprentice Maze Puzzle Box

    I learned a lot by building this puzzle box. One of the first things is that the wood can't be too smooth! Some of the pieces didn't want to slide nicely until I sanded them a bit more thoroughly than might have been necessary. I have a collection of various grits and using 400 grit followed by a layer of paste wax makes for a great moving component.The paint I used must be garbage. After two or three days, it's still a bit gummy. I'm hoping that over time it will harden up and make the maze easier to turn and the sliders not so sticky. In the interim, I've added a short stub of a bamboo skewer to the side to make it easier to move that portion of the puzzle.Also visible in the photos are an accessory cover to hide the mechanism. It's a press fit and sits perfectly on the internal support…

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    I learned a lot by building this puzzle box. One of the first things is that the wood can't be too smooth! Some of the pieces didn't want to slide nicely until I sanded them a bit more thoroughly than might have been necessary. I have a collection of various grits and using 400 grit followed by a layer of paste wax makes for a great moving component.The paint I used must be garbage. After two or three days, it's still a bit gummy. I'm hoping that over time it will harden up and make the maze easier to turn and the sliders not so sticky. In the interim, I've added a short stub of a bamboo skewer to the side to make it easier to move that portion of the puzzle.Also visible in the photos are an accessory cover to hide the mechanism. It's a press fit and sits perfectly on the internal supports for the wedges. There's cut-outs for the sliding components with plenty of clearance to avoid interference with the movement.I used a Golden Oak stain on the outside panels and left the internal faces to the natural birch ply surface.

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  • Card Stock Flying Dragon Paper Airplane

    I have a ton of Cheerios boxes collected for other laser projects. Would the plane be too heavy if the entire structure was built from this material? It's about 0.0277" / 0.7036 mm thick. I've converted the PDFs to vector form for zip-zip easy cutting.

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  • Magical No Dip, One-Hand, Tri-String, Continuous Feed, Mega Bubble Wand

    I expect from the description of using thermoplastic beads that the product is hand-moldable plastic. If you use these terms, you'll find a number of sources. It's suggested to put the beads in a plastic bag in boiling water, but I use a piece of foil and a heat gun. They melt very quickly, but are also dangerously hot in short order.

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  • Giant Functioning Emergency Stop Button

    I'm looking forward even more to seeing the CAD files. I printed all the parts, they look great. ABS with HIPS supports make for a stunningly clean under-surface. Unfortunately, every part that has to fit to another part is about a mm too large. The spring shafts won't insert into the spring tubes and the inner clip holder won't fit the outer cylinder. It might be less than a mm, but not-fitting is not-fitting. If I re-scale the part, the spacing goes out of kilter and everybody knows how important to keep things in kilter.

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  • Giant Functioning Emergency Stop Button

    Thanks for the reply. I have an account with bolt depot and mostly forgot I did. Pretty good price, better than the book seller people. I'm surprised you don't have the link in the text.It's good to hear you'll be sharing the files too. I'm not particularly capable when it comes to most of the CAD stuff, but I enjoy to see how they work.I'm working on a latching relay circuit (in my alleged mind) to see if I can increase the safe load capacity of the big button. Big power for big button!

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  • Giant Functioning Emergency Stop Button

    Has anyone built this wonderful device? It's challenging to find affordable M2 flat head (countersunk) bolts. Would pan head or button head or cap head bolts work without interference?

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  • 3D Print Infill Jewelry

    I researched your printer and found that the device is compatible with Cura and others, which means it uses standard g-code for printing. You would be able to use Prusa Slicer v2 and configure the software for your printer, giving you access to the other types of infill available. The web site for the labists x says that it ships with cura. You'd be able to find the configuration information within Cura and transpose it to Prusa Slicer.

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      • Simple Arduino Home Energy Meter
      • Build Your Own Inexpensive Solar Panel
      • Arduino Solar Tracker (Single or Dual Axis)
  • Crack the Code Game, Arduino Based Puzzle Box

    I am also hoping to download the files. This is a wonderful project.

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  • fred_dot_u commented on adriancubas's instructable Solar Coffee Maker
    Solar Coffee Maker

    A great use of all those kilowatts of energy visiting us on a sunny day! I've been fascinated with solar energy since well before my high school days last century. An expensive Fresnel lens (US$10) as a kid allowed me to burn holes in pine two-by-fours.Additionally, one can often find discarded satellite TV dishes. Even though they are painted, elliptical and less efficient than parabolic reflectors, the paint can be removed and the surface polished to serve well enough in this application. It also removes another item from the landfill, which often includes mounting brackets for both the focus and the attachment of the dish to a hardpoint.

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      • Interactive Geodesic LED Dome
      • Desktop CT and 3D Scanner With Arduino
      • LED Eclipse With Touch Sensors and MIDI
  • fred_dot_u commented on jbumstead's instructable String Hyperboloid
    String Hyperboloid

    This is an extremely clear and well written instructable. Is the purpose of the magnets to provide a lock or detent type of action? It's probably a good idea to add to the materials list the size of the magnets, although one can easily modify the cut list to fit other sizes as long as it was 3mm thick.

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  • Laser Drawing Machine

    Did you use an ordinary back-surface mirror? I'd forgotten that I had constructed a laser based device many years ago that required a front-surface mirror as the ordinary type has two reflective surfaces, the glass front and the reflective back. If you're getting double "burns," moving to a front surface mirror will remove the extra reflection. I've posted a comment to another instructable about the mirror: https://www.instructables.com/Easy-to-Make-Polyhedral-Kaleidoscopes/ and an inexpensive means to create one. My first project used inexpensive acrylic mirror tile, rather than a full sheet as noted in the above instructable. The plastic is lighter and easy to cut too.

    Did you use an ordinary back-surface mirror? I'd forgotten that I had constructed a laser based device many years ago that required a front-surface mirror as the ordinary type has two reflective surfaces, the glass front and the reflective back. If you're getting double "burns," moving to a front surface mirror will remove the extra reflection. I've posted a comment to another instructable about the mirror: https://www.instructables.com/Easy-to-Make-Polyhedral-Kaleidoscopes/ and an inexpensive means to create one. My first project used inexpensive acrylic mirror tile, rather than a full sheet as noted in the above instructable. The plastic is lighter and easy to cut too.

    Did you use an ordinary back-surface mirror? I'd forgotten that I had constructed a laser based device many years ago that required a front-surface mirror as the ordinary type has two reflective surfaces, the glass front and the reflective back. If you're getting double "burns," moving to a front surface mirror will remove the extra reflection. I've posted a comment to another instructable about the mirror: https://www.instructables.com/Easy-to-Make-Polyhedral-Kaleidoscopes/ and an inexpensive means to create one. My first project used inexpensive acrylic mirror tile, rather than a full sheet as noted in the above instructable. The plastic is lighter and easy to cut too.

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  • Laser Drawing Machine

    This is an impressive bit of engineering. Very smooth movement and a clean approach to redirecting the laser, keeping the weight to a minimum as well as the weight low on the assembly. With two knobs in place of the joystick, you have a high tech Etch-a-Sketch. With the addition of a laser interrupter, there would no longer be the requirement to connect lines during the drawing.Nicely done.

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  • GlassCube - 4x4x4 LED Cube on Glass PCBs

    This is a beautiful project! I may yet make this although my not-done-projects list is quite large. I've been wanting to build an LED cube for a long time but the spindly wire designs aren't quite as aesthetic as your glass plate type. That's a stroke of genius!Regarding the heat flow method breaking the glass. One could purchase a 3D printer heat bed which is made from borosilicate glass and have it cut to the desired size. The edges would have to be sanded/diamond-honed to reduce the chance of cuts, but that's a minor complication.I've done copper PCB etching in the past. Wouldn't it be possible to attach the copper foil to the glass, mask and etch it in a similar manner?Even though you have a custom circuit for control, I'm inclined to go the Arduino route for a bit more on-the-go flex…

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    This is a beautiful project! I may yet make this although my not-done-projects list is quite large. I've been wanting to build an LED cube for a long time but the spindly wire designs aren't quite as aesthetic as your glass plate type. That's a stroke of genius!Regarding the heat flow method breaking the glass. One could purchase a 3D printer heat bed which is made from borosilicate glass and have it cut to the desired size. The edges would have to be sanded/diamond-honed to reduce the chance of cuts, but that's a minor complication.I've done copper PCB etching in the past. Wouldn't it be possible to attach the copper foil to the glass, mask and etch it in a similar manner?Even though you have a custom circuit for control, I'm inclined to go the Arduino route for a bit more on-the-go flexibility for programming. I don't see that as a complication, as it could be easily housed in a compartment under the bottom layer.Congratulations on a great instructable.

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  • Carter's Lasercut Iris Box V2

    By rounding the corners of the small semi-circle stoppers and moving the hole close to the flat edge, it makes it less likely to glue them to the walls or ring. Sanding all parts thoroughly before assembly makes for a much smoother operation as well. I used bamboo skewers in place of screws and adjusted the hole diameters to match. It's a bit more finicky to size the skewers than to use screws but the results are quite nice. A great gift box for the holiday gift cards and many other items. Nicely done.

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  • fred_dot_u commented on Amy Gois's instructable Secret Opening Box
    Secret Opening Box

    I've not yet built the box, but have created a cut file in SVG format. One layer for cut lines, one layer for fold lines and one layer for text. That way one can disable/remove the text from the laser job and also modify the fold lines to match the requirements of the laser and material being cut.https://www.dropbox.com/s/lp4wi95ezmtxycz/consolid...I cannot ensure how long this link will remain. Request to the creator, please download the file and attach to your instructable?

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  • fred_dot_u commented on Amy Gois's instructable Secret Opening Box
    Secret Opening Box

    Your amazing sister is amazing! Please thank her on my behalf for a beautiful job.

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  • fred_dot_u commented on Amy Gois's instructable Secret Opening Box
    Secret Opening Box

    An interesting project. The requirement of precise cutting makes this a good laser cutter project as well, except it's very difficult to read the dimensions in the drawings! I think I might try to convert the information in the photos to an SVG file and give the build a go.

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  • fred_dot_u commented on DarciS6's instructable FABfiber Mini Loom
    FABfiber Mini Loom

    Are there files available to download for laser cutting?

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  • Easy-to-Make Polyhedral Kaleidoscopes

    Another thought popped into my alleged mind. Many moons ago, I constructed a laser show device which required first surface mirrors to prevent the previously noted double reflections. The solution was to use ordinary acrylic mirrors, but to remove the painted surface on the back, using "gentle" paint remover. I think I used an organic or "green" paint remover, which resulted in the reflective coating being visible on both sides. The rear surface became the front surface and worked great.I've also discovered that the big-box store sells self-adhesive mirror film, but in 17" widths!

    An update on the vinyl question, although it is somewhat inconclusive. I have a piece of acrylic from the local big-box store, which is masked with a sheet of plastic on both sides. Using the test suggested here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beilstein_testI first used PVC pipe as a sample reference. As it is polyVINYLchloride, it's certainly going to qualify. The test resulted in a bright green flame.The plastic sheet did not display any green, through three tests, suggesting that this particular portion of masking plastic is not vinyl based. Even though I have a few sheets of first surface glass mirrors, I really like your suggestion to add mirror film to ordinary acrylic sheet as an economy measure to create these amazing works of art. If I'm able to accomplish something approaching yo…

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    An update on the vinyl question, although it is somewhat inconclusive. I have a piece of acrylic from the local big-box store, which is masked with a sheet of plastic on both sides. Using the test suggested here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beilstein_testI first used PVC pipe as a sample reference. As it is polyVINYLchloride, it's certainly going to qualify. The test resulted in a bright green flame.The plastic sheet did not display any green, through three tests, suggesting that this particular portion of masking plastic is not vinyl based. Even though I have a few sheets of first surface glass mirrors, I really like your suggestion to add mirror film to ordinary acrylic sheet as an economy measure to create these amazing works of art. If I'm able to accomplish something approaching your results, I'll be sure to post.

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  • Easy-to-Make Polyhedral Kaleidoscopes

    I see the dimensions in the list have been changed to match the smaller, lower cost mirror. That's good to see. I've put out some feelers on the laser forum to pin down the vinyl matter. I have "ordinary" acrylic with masking and I'm going to run the green flame test on the material to see if it is vinyl.

    Impressive results. You're correct about the pricey mirror material! US$350 for a single piece is astonishing. I'm considering to create the mirror structure from front surface glass mirror salvaged from old projection televisions. It means a trickier assembly, but the price is much easier to handle. Of course, handling something so large made of glass has its own risks, but those can also be managed.One note of caution. If the masking on the mirrors is plastic, it's probably vinyl. When vinyl is cut with a laser, dangerous chlorine gas is released. It corrodes almost instantly the equipment as well as any nearby lungs. It's probably a good idea to remove the vinyl when cutting. If it's necessary to protect the mirror, paper transfer tape from vinyl cutting supplies will do a good job and…

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    Impressive results. You're correct about the pricey mirror material! US$350 for a single piece is astonishing. I'm considering to create the mirror structure from front surface glass mirror salvaged from old projection televisions. It means a trickier assembly, but the price is much easier to handle. Of course, handling something so large made of glass has its own risks, but those can also be managed.One note of caution. If the masking on the mirrors is plastic, it's probably vinyl. When vinyl is cut with a laser, dangerous chlorine gas is released. It corrodes almost instantly the equipment as well as any nearby lungs. It's probably a good idea to remove the vinyl when cutting. If it's necessary to protect the mirror, paper transfer tape from vinyl cutting supplies will do a good job and reduce the hazards.

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  • To remove enamel insulation from magnet wire, I've learned of a method involving ordinary aspirin and solder flux. Place the aspirin tablet on a stable surface outside of the home, as toxic fumes may be generated. Apply a bit of solder flux paste to the tablet. As you heat the flux with the iron, apply the end of the wire to the paste. The bubbling action appears to cleanly eat away the insulation. One can easily apply solder to the wire at that point, as it is also fluxed in the process.

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  • Thanks for the layer separation. I'm hopeful to start making smoke sometime today, even though the gratings haven't arrived in the post yet.

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  • I've begun to configure for laser cutting and discovered that there's no layer separation for the engraved versus the cut-through portions of the project. Is there an easy to determine philosophy for what holes are decorative and which ones are through-holes? It appears that the curves on the one surface are decorative. I also recognize that it might be necessary to cut at lower power/higher speeds rather than engrave or cut to achieve the desired result.

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  • If your software supports a perforation mode (lightburnsoftware.com) or a dot mode (RD Works), you can reduce the amount of soot created during the cutting. Nicely done Instructable.

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  • An impressive construction and a very well written instructable.

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  • I've recently watched a video which uses an MOT for Lichtenstein wood burning. The creator of the video noted the third winding and advised he knew not of its purpose, using wire nuts to prevent contact with the coil ends. I noted that the coil count was quite low and figured it meant low voltage, high current, as opposed to the desired high voltage output used for burning.Is it safe to lock off the wiring in the manner he used? Is it safer to join the wires together and insulate the connection? What's level of voltage would one expect from such a winding? I suspect it has little real-world application when used in combination with a Lichtenstein burning apparatus.

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  • You would have to allow for the "stretching" backwards as the chest opens. It would require to have a small bulge in the leather when closed and as TheBeardlessMan suggests, use thinner leather. Leather is quite strong, even material as thin as a millimeter or thinner, which would make it work.One way to ensure you have sufficient stretch/bulge would be to position the top open, then attach the leather. When the glue dries, it will automatically bulge when closed.

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  • Your method of joining struts is a wonderful discovery. I have a laser cutter which will make cutting leather shapes quite easy, although very very malodorous.I've been interested in geodesic shapes for much of my life and have pondered the various joining methods. Your method appears to be quite economical, especially if the leather is sourced from thrift shop belts.It's important when building higher frequency geodesic shapes to have proper strut length calculations, which includes the spacing at the joints. Do you have a calculation for compensating with this design? That is to say, a perfect geodesic model would have struts of zero thickness and would join at a single point. In the real world, one adjusts for the method of connecting. If, for example, the design required a strut of 40…

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    Your method of joining struts is a wonderful discovery. I have a laser cutter which will make cutting leather shapes quite easy, although very very malodorous.I've been interested in geodesic shapes for much of my life and have pondered the various joining methods. Your method appears to be quite economical, especially if the leather is sourced from thrift shop belts.It's important when building higher frequency geodesic shapes to have proper strut length calculations, which includes the spacing at the joints. Do you have a calculation for compensating with this design? That is to say, a perfect geodesic model would have struts of zero thickness and would join at a single point. In the real world, one adjusts for the method of connecting. If, for example, the design required a strut of 40 cm (perfect) but the join used 2 cm, one would subtract 4 cm for a strut length of 36 cm to make the assembly.Do you perform similar calculations?

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  • This is a very comprehensive well written Instructable. Nicely annotated and accompanied by great photographs. I am hopeful to be able to construct one of these meters. I have Russ' dohickey and it works great, even though it is only slightly bulky to have a temperature meter and probe with separate wiring. Your project turns the entire assembly into a very convenient hand-held sophisticated power meter.Have you considered to provide the PCB files in SVG, AI, or DXF or other vector format? I ask, because laser cutter owners can create PCBs by masking the copper board with black paint, then burning off the non-copper areas of paint, followed by etching in appropriate solution.Congratulations on a great project presentation.

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  • fred_dot_u commented on HeatherW185's instructable Mousetrap Car

    What do you think about using discarded CD or DVDs for the wheels? It may be a bit more work to add a hub to take the axles, but less expensive for those who have a few otherwise useless disks.

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  • fred_dot_u commented on brichtl's instructable Laser Engrave Metal

    It's amazing to consider that there's one other marking compound that should be used for stainless steel. It's grey poupon mustard!https://youtu.be/B60nXwhK9gk

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  • The method in the instructable will result in a more accurate slot as well as a more easily aligned, glued and clamped slot cover. Nicely done.

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  • Even with the Inkscape_helper files in place, this plugin does not work with 0.92 version of Inkscape. That's unfortunate, as this could be quite a wonderful add-on for the program.

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  • Not a free software package at US$495, but has a free trial here:https://datatree3d.com/software/

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  • I can see that might be the case. One would then expect that the suguru stuff doesn't use a similar method to catalyze. There probably isn't much moisture in the cornstarch until it is opened. After that, all bets are off.

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  • Once the caulk-type tubes of silicone are opened, they will cure internally and become useless in a short time. If you have a food-saver type vacuum sealer, the tube can be sealed inside and will last much much longer. Even the low priced hand pump version will increase the shelf life of the unused silicone. The gallon size bags are difficult to find locally, but I checked Amazon and they are available there.It's also possible (but not tested) that any unused oogoo left over could be saved in a vacuum bag.If you use the hand pump vacuum bags, add a piece of adhesive tape on the vacuum flap of the bag to ensure it doesn't accidentally release and let air inside.

    Walmart still sells the right stuff. You don't have to smell it to ensure it's the correct product. Look on the label and you'll see it has a "warning" that says acetic acid is released during cure. Acetic acid is vinegar. The wrong silicone has a similar warning, but the release chemical has a longer name I've forgotten.

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