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  • 3D Print Infill Jewelry

    I researched your printer and found that the device is compatible with Cura and others, which means it uses standard g-code for printing. You would be able to use Prusa Slicer v2 and configure the software for your printer, giving you access to the other types of infill available. The web site for the labists x says that it ships with cura. You'd be able to find the configuration information within Cura and transpose it to Prusa Slicer.

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      • Simple Arduino Home Energy Meter
      • Build Your Own Inexpensive Solar Panel
      • Arduino Solar Tracker (Single or Dual Axis)
  • Crack the Code Game, Arduino Based Puzzle Box

    I am also hoping to download the files. This is a wonderful project.

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  • fred_dot_u commented on adriancubas's instructable Solar Coffee Maker
    Solar Coffee Maker

    A great use of all those kilowatts of energy visiting us on a sunny day! I've been fascinated with solar energy since well before my high school days last century. An expensive Fresnel lens (US$10) as a kid allowed me to burn holes in pine two-by-fours.Additionally, one can often find discarded satellite TV dishes. Even though they are painted, elliptical and less efficient than parabolic reflectors, the paint can be removed and the surface polished to serve well enough in this application. It also removes another item from the landfill, which often includes mounting brackets for both the focus and the attachment of the dish to a hardpoint.

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      • Interactive Geodesic LED Dome
      • Desktop CT and 3D Scanner With Arduino
      • LED Eclipse With Touch Sensors and MIDI
  • fred_dot_u commented on jbumstead's instructable String Hyperboloid
    String Hyperboloid

    This is an extremely clear and well written instructable. Is the purpose of the magnets to provide a lock or detent type of action? It's probably a good idea to add to the materials list the size of the magnets, although one can easily modify the cut list to fit other sizes as long as it was 3mm thick.

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  • Laser Drawing Machine

    Did you use an ordinary back-surface mirror? I'd forgotten that I had constructed a laser based device many years ago that required a front-surface mirror as the ordinary type has two reflective surfaces, the glass front and the reflective back. If you're getting double "burns," moving to a front surface mirror will remove the extra reflection. I've posted a comment to another instructable about the mirror: https://www.instructables.com/id/Easy-to-Make-Polyhedral-Kaleidoscopes/ and an inexpensive means to create one. My first project used inexpensive acrylic mirror tile, rather than a full sheet as noted in the above instructable. The plastic is lighter and easy to cut too.

    Did you use an ordinary back-surface mirror? I'd forgotten that I had constructed a laser based device many years ago that required a front-surface mirror as the ordinary type has two reflective surfaces, the glass front and the reflective back. If you're getting double "burns," moving to a front surface mirror will remove the extra reflection. I've posted a comment to another instructable about the mirror: https://www.instructables.com/id/Easy-to-Make-Polyhedral-Kaleidoscopes/ and an inexpensive means to create one. My first project used inexpensive acrylic mirror tile, rather than a full sheet as noted in the above instructable. The plastic is lighter and easy to cut too.

    Did you use an ordinary back-surface mirror? I'd forgotten that I had constructed a laser based device many years ago that required a front-surface mirror as the ordinary type has two reflective surfaces, the glass front and the reflective back. If you're getting double "burns," moving to a front surface mirror will remove the extra reflection. I've posted a comment to another instructable about the mirror: https://www.instructables.com/id/Easy-to-Make-Polyhedral-Kaleidoscopes/ and an inexpensive means to create one. My first project used inexpensive acrylic mirror tile, rather than a full sheet as noted in the above instructable. The plastic is lighter and easy to cut too.

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  • Laser Drawing Machine

    This is an impressive bit of engineering. Very smooth movement and a clean approach to redirecting the laser, keeping the weight to a minimum as well as the weight low on the assembly. With two knobs in place of the joystick, you have a high tech Etch-a-Sketch. With the addition of a laser interrupter, there would no longer be the requirement to connect lines during the drawing.Nicely done.

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  • GlassCube - 4x4x4 LED Cube on Glass PCBs

    This is a beautiful project! I may yet make this although my not-done-projects list is quite large. I've been wanting to build an LED cube for a long time but the spindly wire designs aren't quite as aesthetic as your glass plate type. That's a stroke of genius!Regarding the heat flow method breaking the glass. One could purchase a 3D printer heat bed which is made from borosilicate glass and have it cut to the desired size. The edges would have to be sanded/diamond-honed to reduce the chance of cuts, but that's a minor complication.I've done copper PCB etching in the past. Wouldn't it be possible to attach the copper foil to the glass, mask and etch it in a similar manner?Even though you have a custom circuit for control, I'm inclined to go the Arduino route for a bit more on-the-go fl...

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    This is a beautiful project! I may yet make this although my not-done-projects list is quite large. I've been wanting to build an LED cube for a long time but the spindly wire designs aren't quite as aesthetic as your glass plate type. That's a stroke of genius!Regarding the heat flow method breaking the glass. One could purchase a 3D printer heat bed which is made from borosilicate glass and have it cut to the desired size. The edges would have to be sanded/diamond-honed to reduce the chance of cuts, but that's a minor complication.I've done copper PCB etching in the past. Wouldn't it be possible to attach the copper foil to the glass, mask and etch it in a similar manner?Even though you have a custom circuit for control, I'm inclined to go the Arduino route for a bit more on-the-go flexibility for programming. I don't see that as a complication, as it could be easily housed in a compartment under the bottom layer.Congratulations on a great instructable.

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  • Carter's Lasercut Iris Box V2

    By rounding the corners of the small semi-circle stoppers and moving the hole close to the flat edge, it makes it less likely to glue them to the walls or ring. Sanding all parts thoroughly before assembly makes for a much smoother operation as well. I used bamboo skewers in place of screws and adjusted the hole diameters to match. It's a bit more finicky to size the skewers than to use screws but the results are quite nice. A great gift box for the holiday gift cards and many other items. Nicely done.

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  • fred_dot_u commented on Amy Gois's instructable Secret Opening Box
    Secret Opening Box

    I've not yet built the box, but have created a cut file in SVG format. One layer for cut lines, one layer for fold lines and one layer for text. That way one can disable/remove the text from the laser job and also modify the fold lines to match the requirements of the laser and material being cut.https://www.dropbox.com/s/lp4wi95ezmtxycz/consolid...I cannot ensure how long this link will remain. Request to the creator, please download the file and attach to your instructable?

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  • fred_dot_u commented on Amy Gois's instructable Secret Opening Box
    Secret Opening Box

    Your amazing sister is amazing! Please thank her on my behalf for a beautiful job.

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  • fred_dot_u commented on Amy Gois's instructable Secret Opening Box
    Secret Opening Box

    An interesting project. The requirement of precise cutting makes this a good laser cutter project as well, except it's very difficult to read the dimensions in the drawings! I think I might try to convert the information in the photos to an SVG file and give the build a go.

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  • fred_dot_u commented on DarciS6's instructable FABfiber Mini Loom
    FABfiber Mini Loom

    Are there files available to download for laser cutting?

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  • Easy-to-Make Polyhedral Kaleidoscopes

    Another thought popped into my alleged mind. Many moons ago, I constructed a laser show device which required first surface mirrors to prevent the previously noted double reflections. The solution was to use ordinary acrylic mirrors, but to remove the painted surface on the back, using "gentle" paint remover. I think I used an organic or "green" paint remover, which resulted in the reflective coating being visible on both sides. The rear surface became the front surface and worked great.I've also discovered that the big-box store sells self-adhesive mirror film, but in 17" widths!

    An update on the vinyl question, although it is somewhat inconclusive. I have a piece of acrylic from the local big-box store, which is masked with a sheet of plastic on both sides. Using the test suggested here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beilstein_testI first used PVC pipe as a sample reference. As it is polyVINYLchloride, it's certainly going to qualify. The test resulted in a bright green flame.The plastic sheet did not display any green, through three tests, suggesting that this particular portion of masking plastic is not vinyl based. Even though I have a few sheets of first surface glass mirrors, I really like your suggestion to add mirror film to ordinary acrylic sheet as an economy measure to create these amazing works of art. If I'm able to accomplish something approaching ...

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    An update on the vinyl question, although it is somewhat inconclusive. I have a piece of acrylic from the local big-box store, which is masked with a sheet of plastic on both sides. Using the test suggested here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beilstein_testI first used PVC pipe as a sample reference. As it is polyVINYLchloride, it's certainly going to qualify. The test resulted in a bright green flame.The plastic sheet did not display any green, through three tests, suggesting that this particular portion of masking plastic is not vinyl based. Even though I have a few sheets of first surface glass mirrors, I really like your suggestion to add mirror film to ordinary acrylic sheet as an economy measure to create these amazing works of art. If I'm able to accomplish something approaching your results, I'll be sure to post.

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  • Easy-to-Make Polyhedral Kaleidoscopes

    I see the dimensions in the list have been changed to match the smaller, lower cost mirror. That's good to see. I've put out some feelers on the laser forum to pin down the vinyl matter. I have "ordinary" acrylic with masking and I'm going to run the green flame test on the material to see if it is vinyl.

    Impressive results. You're correct about the pricey mirror material! US$350 for a single piece is astonishing. I'm considering to create the mirror structure from front surface glass mirror salvaged from old projection televisions. It means a trickier assembly, but the price is much easier to handle. Of course, handling something so large made of glass has its own risks, but those can also be managed.One note of caution. If the masking on the mirrors is plastic, it's probably vinyl. When vinyl is cut with a laser, dangerous chlorine gas is released. It corrodes almost instantly the equipment as well as any nearby lungs. It's probably a good idea to remove the vinyl when cutting. If it's necessary to protect the mirror, paper transfer tape from vinyl cutting supplies will do a good job a...

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    Impressive results. You're correct about the pricey mirror material! US$350 for a single piece is astonishing. I'm considering to create the mirror structure from front surface glass mirror salvaged from old projection televisions. It means a trickier assembly, but the price is much easier to handle. Of course, handling something so large made of glass has its own risks, but those can also be managed.One note of caution. If the masking on the mirrors is plastic, it's probably vinyl. When vinyl is cut with a laser, dangerous chlorine gas is released. It corrodes almost instantly the equipment as well as any nearby lungs. It's probably a good idea to remove the vinyl when cutting. If it's necessary to protect the mirror, paper transfer tape from vinyl cutting supplies will do a good job and reduce the hazards.

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  • RFID NFC Tap and Go Ring for Credit Card Payment

    To remove enamel insulation from magnet wire, I've learned of a method involving ordinary aspirin and solder flux. Place the aspirin tablet on a stable surface outside of the home, as toxic fumes may be generated. Apply a bit of solder flux paste to the tablet. As you heat the flux with the iron, apply the end of the wire to the paste. The bubbling action appears to cleanly eat away the insulation. One can easily apply solder to the wire at that point, as it is also fluxed in the process.

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  • Diffraction Grating Kaleidoscope

    Thanks for the layer separation. I'm hopeful to start making smoke sometime today, even though the gratings haven't arrived in the post yet.

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  • Diffraction Grating Kaleidoscope

    I've begun to configure for laser cutting and discovered that there's no layer separation for the engraved versus the cut-through portions of the project. Is there an easy to determine philosophy for what holes are decorative and which ones are through-holes? It appears that the curves on the one surface are decorative. I also recognize that it might be necessary to cut at lower power/higher speeds rather than engrave or cut to achieve the desired result.

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  • Lasercut Cardboard Lampshade

    If your software supports a perforation mode (lightburnsoftware.com) or a dot mode (RD Works), you can reduce the amount of soot created during the cutting. Nicely done Instructable.

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  • Galileo Wooden Escapement Mechanism

    An impressive construction and a very well written instructable.

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  • Custom DC Power From Microwave Oven Transformer

    I've recently watched a video which uses an MOT for Lichtenstein wood burning. The creator of the video noted the third winding and advised he knew not of its purpose, using wire nuts to prevent contact with the coil ends. I noted that the coil count was quite low and figured it meant low voltage, high current, as opposed to the desired high voltage output used for burning.Is it safe to lock off the wiring in the manner he used? Is it safer to join the wires together and insulate the connection? What's level of voltage would one expect from such a winding? I suspect it has little real-world application when used in combination with a Lichtenstein burning apparatus.

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  • Sea of Thieves Treasure Chest

    You would have to allow for the "stretching" backwards as the chest opens. It would require to have a small bulge in the leather when closed and as TheBeardlessMan suggests, use thinner leather. Leather is quite strong, even material as thin as a millimeter or thinner, which would make it work.One way to ensure you have sufficient stretch/bulge would be to position the top open, then attach the leather. When the glue dries, it will automatically bulge when closed.

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  • Let's Build Your Simple Dome With "PLLWS"!

    Your method of joining struts is a wonderful discovery. I have a laser cutter which will make cutting leather shapes quite easy, although very very malodorous.I've been interested in geodesic shapes for much of my life and have pondered the various joining methods. Your method appears to be quite economical, especially if the leather is sourced from thrift shop belts.It's important when building higher frequency geodesic shapes to have proper strut length calculations, which includes the spacing at the joints. Do you have a calculation for compensating with this design? That is to say, a perfect geodesic model would have struts of zero thickness and would join at a single point. In the real world, one adjusts for the method of connecting. If, for example, the design required a strut of ...

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    Your method of joining struts is a wonderful discovery. I have a laser cutter which will make cutting leather shapes quite easy, although very very malodorous.I've been interested in geodesic shapes for much of my life and have pondered the various joining methods. Your method appears to be quite economical, especially if the leather is sourced from thrift shop belts.It's important when building higher frequency geodesic shapes to have proper strut length calculations, which includes the spacing at the joints. Do you have a calculation for compensating with this design? That is to say, a perfect geodesic model would have struts of zero thickness and would join at a single point. In the real world, one adjusts for the method of connecting. If, for example, the design required a strut of 40 cm (perfect) but the join used 2 cm, one would subtract 4 cm for a strut length of 36 cm to make the assembly.Do you perform similar calculations?

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  • E-dohicky the Electronic Version of  Russ's Laser Power Meter Dohicky

    This is a very comprehensive well written Instructable. Nicely annotated and accompanied by great photographs. I am hopeful to be able to construct one of these meters. I have Russ' dohickey and it works great, even though it is only slightly bulky to have a temperature meter and probe with separate wiring. Your project turns the entire assembly into a very convenient hand-held sophisticated power meter.Have you considered to provide the PCB files in SVG, AI, or DXF or other vector format? I ask, because laser cutter owners can create PCBs by masking the copper board with black paint, then burning off the non-copper areas of paint, followed by etching in appropriate solution.Congratulations on a great project presentation.

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      • The Ultimate Guide to Laser-cut Box Generators
      • Slow Dance - a Fusion of Art and Magic
      • Android Christmas Lights Controller
  • fred_dot_u commented on HeatherW185's instructable Mousetrap Car
    Mousetrap Car

    What do you think about using discarded CD or DVDs for the wheels? It may be a bit more work to add a hub to take the axles, but less expensive for those who have a few otherwise useless disks.

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  • fred_dot_u commented on brichtl's instructable Laser Engrave Metal
    Laser Engrave Metal

    It's amazing to consider that there's one other marking compound that should be used for stainless steel. It's grey poupon mustard!https://youtu.be/B60nXwhK9gk

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  • Simple T Track for Woodwork Jigs

    The method in the instructable will result in a more accurate slot as well as a more easily aligned, glued and clamped slot cover. Nicely done.

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  • Generating Elliptical Boxes Using a Laser Cutter and Inkscape

    Even with the Inkscape_helper files in place, this plugin does not work with 0.92 version of Inkscape. That's unfortunate, as this could be quite a wonderful add-on for the program.

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  • RooBee One - SLA DLP Aluminum Frame 3D Printer

    Not a free software package at US$495, but has a free trial here:https://datatree3d.com/software/

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  • How To Make Your Own Sugru Substitute

    I can see that might be the case. One would then expect that the suguru stuff doesn't use a similar method to catalyze. There probably isn't much moisture in the cornstarch until it is opened. After that, all bets are off.

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  • How To Make Your Own Sugru Substitute

    Once the caulk-type tubes of silicone are opened, they will cure internally and become useless in a short time. If you have a food-saver type vacuum sealer, the tube can be sealed inside and will last much much longer. Even the low priced hand pump version will increase the shelf life of the unused silicone. The gallon size bags are difficult to find locally, but I checked Amazon and they are available there.It's also possible (but not tested) that any unused oogoo left over could be saved in a vacuum bag.If you use the hand pump vacuum bags, add a piece of adhesive tape on the vacuum flap of the bag to ensure it doesn't accidentally release and let air inside.

    Walmart still sells the right stuff. You don't have to smell it to ensure it's the correct product. Look on the label and you'll see it has a "warning" that says acetic acid is released during cure. Acetic acid is vinegar. The wrong silicone has a similar warning, but the release chemical has a longer name I've forgotten.

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