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I wanted to shield more of the table for the Dungeon Master to have books and notes. You could use just one if that's enough
Might be a problem with the program you are using to create graphics. In type, the space between letters is called kerning. If you can't control that, I would suggest creating the H and B separately and then lining them up and adjusting the space.
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Table From a 2' X 4' BoardView Instructable »
Awesome project. Just the picture of the whisky bottle hooked up to the plumbing is great.
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I don't currently have a YouTube account. Thinking about starting one. If the Makey Makey can plug into the XBox it should work.
I have engraved on granite once or twice. The important thing to remember is that lasers aren't designed to remove specific amounts of material but rather how much to burn the material. You can get a stronger burn by increasing the power and slowing the movement of the laser down. From what I remember darker colored granite worked better than lighter colored. Best advice is get a test piece and run several test on it and keep track of your settings.Have fun.Geordie
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I'm not the best person to ask about machines. I've only used 2. I currently use a GlowForge and I'm very happy with it. But it did have a long wait time to get.My best advice is make sure what you buy has good support. You can get cheap Chinese versions but will they have good support?
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Very cool. I love tops and dice. Great job.
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The door stop is a great spring and cheap and easy to get. For the joystick the screw worked great for both mounting and using as a group. A Makey-Makey glove controller is a great idea. You should give a go. I think they've had video game contests in the past. So it doesn't just have to be Makey-Makey. As Adam Savage says "follow your weird ideas".
Thanks. Congrats on your win. The Makey Makey is interesting and the best part is reinventing things like joysticks and musical instruments with it.
Thanks. I love going to hardware stores and finding different uses for items.
Thanks. I started with just a spring and when I was at the hardware store looking for a bigger one it occurred to me to to use the door stop spring.Please vote for me in the Makey Makey contest.
Makey Makey Joystick From Spring Door StopView Instructable »
I've never worked with a machine that allows you to vary the laser height. I would contact the manufacture.
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Not sure. Sounds like a software problem. Not my strong suite
I'm not super familiar with how the auto focus works, but I think its mostly to focus on the surface of the material not its thickness. The cut power is determined by the power and speed of the cut. The best thing I've found is to run several test cuts (on scrap if you have it) until you find the best settings.
Dungeon Master Screen (with Storage Space)View Instructable »
Thanks. I hope people add their own twists to it. Like mixing different colored acrylics.
I did not know that. Thanks for the info.
Laser Cut Costume JewelryView Instructable »
The laser cutters I've worked with, which are the hobby to basic business models, have a fixed focal length. You can't adjust the focus like you can on a telescope or microscope. Maybe there are more expensive/professional machines that can change the focus but I don't know about them. As a result beyond a certain depth the laser loses focus and starts to spread out and weaken. The 2 things you can adjust are usually power 0% to 100% and speed that the laser travels. By adjusting those you determine the cut. Your most powerful (for thick material) is a high power and slow speed so the laser stays on the material longer and the weakest (light engraving) is low power and high speed.
I started out renting time on a laser cutter at a Maker Space. If you have one near you, you should check it out.
I use 1/8" thick plywood. It cuts nicely and is pretty sturdy.
Circular Maze With Living Hinge WallsView Instructable »
I'm not sure about the laser tube. The lasers I've dealt with didn't have that option. Usually you just have a choice of how many Watts it has which indicates its power. For most lasers its 30 to 50 Watts. If your doing a lot of cutting more power is good.
Glad you liked them.
The laser is not the best tool for that. It is designed to either cut or engrave not raise anything. Unlike a router its not good at removing large areas of material.Also PVC is a material to avoid using on the laser. PVC has Chlorine in it and when it burns it produces very toxic gases. I would suggest acrylic.Best of luck with your project.
Given that natural materials vary in quality, thickness and toughness you are never going to have a perfect setting. There are 2 tricks for checking cuts. One, look for smoke coming from the under side of the material. This means that the beam has gone through and the smoke with it. Two, when the cut is done use one hand to hold the base material (sheet of wood) down (near the origin) so it doesn't move. Use the other hand to either lift a corner or poke at a few of the cut pieces it they move the cut is good and if they don't you can run the cut again.Good luck.
Haven't tried it. I would probably work. Be careful about things slipping and your blades will probably need to be cleaned well afterwards to prevent rusting or corroding.Do a few test cuts first.
I've only worked with an Epliog laser so I can't compare brands to well. I have a Glowforge on order but its been back ordered for a while.The first bit of advice I have is make sure what ever you buy, make sure it has good support. You might get a Chinese knock off cheap but if it brakes do you really want to call China for tech support?Make sure the bed will fit not only the side to side dimensions you need but also the depth. Some of the hobby level ones only work on thin flat material.Best of luck.
LED Fidget SpinnerView Instructable »
Good idea.As always I would suggest running a test on some scape material to see how it behaves under the laser.
Good advice. Thanks
Another thing to know about lasers and engraving is that they are designed to burn the wood not remove it like a router. The engraving is deeper than the surface but you really can't control the depth. Most lasers are in the 30 to 50 watt range. The higher wattage will burn things faster.Before you buy a laser you might want to rent time on one or have someone run some samples for you so you can see what a laser will do.Have fun.
The important thing to realize about most lasers is they can't vary the thickness of the beam. You can fill in areas but this is done in the engraving settings. Basically the laser goes back and forth over an area, moving down the width of the beam until it has covered the whole area. Vector art work is great for this. Any area with a fill will be engraved and any line that is thicker than the cutting line will also be engraved.Engraving does take longer than cutting so if your paying based on time it is more expensive. But I would stress worth the money. The look is great.
Thanks for the great information. The laser I have access to only has one lens so I've never experimented with changing the focal depth. Good to know. I will also have to check out the 3D feature. Always more to learn.
I only have experience with an Epilog laser cutter. A laser cutter cuts with heat so the burnt edge can't be avoided. Also for most laser cutters 1/4" is the maximum depth (until you get to more industrial lasers). Since you want to cut 1/2" material a CNC sounds line the better option. The biggest difference is going to be the cutting line. On the laser it will be hair thin but on the CNC the size of the cutting bit will be the smallest detail you can cut. Be aware that long thin bits have a tendency to snap if you cut to quickly with them.Hope this helps.
Not off hand. Since you know the company that made the laser I would see if they have a tech support or at least a recommend software for using with the laser.Corel Draw works well with the Epilog laser I use. I prefer Adobe Illustrator for creating drawings. Good luck
I don't have any tips on cutting thick acrylic.I've never compared lens cleaners. So again can't help out.Good luck.