gfwilliams

Someone asked this on YouTube yesterday? I guess it was you? But yes, it should be ok - it might just flicker more

Hi, It's definitely possible, yes. It depends on what RGB led matrix you're using really. If you're using a WS2812 style matrix (3 wire) then you'll need to send data a different (easier) way as you don't need to 'scan' out the data to make it work. There's actually code for doing exactly that on http://www.espruino.com/Word+Clock

Probably, yes - but obviously you'd have to rewrite the code, as well as figuring a way to set the time because you couldn't then update it wirelessly

I wouldn't have thought there'd be a problem. Before you get stuck in I'd go through all the pins with a volt meter while playing music and while not - there's no guarantee they'll have used the same pins for amplifier power as I guess the firmware must be different.

Yes, you can use one of those. Anywhere around 10k for the resistor should be fine, connected between the base and PIO9 (rather than connecting direct). Comparing the two datasheets I think the pins for the BC547 are in the opposite order to the LP395Z, but otherwise it's fine - so you just need to look up the wiring for your transistor and connect the collector/emitter as in the instructable.

Hi! That transistor is used because it's got a resistor inside it so you don't need any other components, but you could use literally any FET instead, or could use any normal NPN transistor along with a resistor to protect it. Maybe you could point me to a website or suggest some transistors that you can get hold of, and I can tell you if they'd work?

Thanks! I wonder is just a needle going past the sensor will be enough to trigger it with the current code, but the nRF52 chip in the Puck has a comparator built in so you should be able to detect quite minor changes in lighting if you need to (http://www.espruino.com/NRF52LL).

If your 7 segments are wired directly (with no controller) then yes - you can use the same scanning method. If you have any questions about how to handle the code/wiring just post up on the forum - it'll be easier to post code in there.

It's not really about that - as I said right at the start of it this isn't the perfect way to charge batteries. I could have filled the breadboard full of FETs and temperature sensors, but this is about getting something that works and is useful in about the simplest way possible.

Do you have a link to any of that research? When doing this I had a quick Google, and the places I looked at didn't show any warnings about trickle charging with small currents - including Energiser's datasheet for their NiMH batteries.Energiser's datasheet recommends 0.025C or less, so 20mA is about spot on for an 800mAh NiMH AAA, and well under for a 2500mAh AA.Even so, as the whole charging process is written in JS code it'd be easy to tweak it to do whatever is considered right (I could change the code posted up here?). It would be better to have some extra hardware so it could do a faster charge at first though.

Not with this setup, no... The Espruino will only produce and measure up to 3.3v, and the batteries need around 4.2v. You could add some extra components to make it work, but to be honest it's probably safer to buy a special LiPo charger board - they're pretty cheap and reliable.