hugopeeters

The vector drawing includes a 10x10mm square you can use for scaling. The width of the base should be 300mm if I recall correctly.

I don't. Are the instructions per button in steps 6 and 7 clear enough for you? You can use a breadboard and jumper wires at first to test each button and output individually before you solder things permanently. If you have a specific question about connecting one of the components, let me know and I'll try to clarify.

The faceplate containing all the buttons should be 300 mm wide by 200 mm tall.For the rest of the box, the drawing contains a red square for scaling that should be 10x10 mm.

Wow, it's really cool to hear you actually built it!Thanks for the tips. I'll see if I can add those details in.Can you share some pics of your build as well? I'd love to see how yours looks.

Yes. When you twist them too far clockwise, the resistance drops too far. You should be able to solve that by putting a resistor in series with that axis.

I did not implement a dedicated button for map screen, but that would be easy to add (or re-assign one button). Fuel transfer requires you to click on the menu's with your mouse. I don't know of a way to bind that to your keyboard.

That IO expander should work. Not sure if the pro mini is slower than a mega, but you always reduce the refresh rate of the calculations. I bet it'll work fine.

If you find somebody - and that's a big if - they should charge their time by the hour. And that would add up very quickly. It would likely run you up over 1000 dollars/euros.However, you can find the parts cheap online if you order from China. There a guy in the comments here that offers to build the enclosure at material cost and all you have to do is solder. You could get that done for as little as 150 euros if you really want to go cheap.Assembly, customization and learning new things while building your own is much of the fun IMHO.

Any Arduino would work. The only restriction is the number of input/outputs.

@phead, those debug messages look like they are from another mod.Did you take the zip-file from my github and unpack it into the GameData folder?Below GameData, it should be a folder called KSPSerialIO with the following content (see pic).

Try opening the debug toolbar (https://wiki.kerbalspaceprogram.com/wiki/Debug_Toolbar) and check for the status messages of the mod in the debug tab.

I don;t have a wiring diagram of the hole thing. Every button is wired in the same way. You can find which button uses which Arduino pin in the Arduino code I also linked.I am using only one Arduino Mega.

The file for the top where all the buttons go is linked in step 5, the file with all the panels to make the rest of the box is linked in step 9. It has the bottom, front, back and both sides. Note that the lines have a stroke width that is minimal in order for the laser cut to be precise. If you select all shapes and adjust the width temporarily, you can see them better. Check the photo's in step 9 as they also show all the parts in the cut board.

I agree! This is going on my ToDo list for sure.

Those are great! Although I did use different values for different colour LEDs in the bar to balance out the brightness.

I can help you with that. It also helps to think it through and write the code in such a way that you can verify every step. Test which value is coming in from the game, test which value you are sending out on the Arduino pins, and test the working of the leds and dials with artificial values. Test, test, test.

Start with a simple example from https://forum.kerbalspaceprogram.com/index.php?/topic/60281-hardware-plugin-arduino-based-physical-display-serial-port-io-tutorial-10-06-17/

Thank you. I recommend you start with an Arduino starter kit to learn the basics.

Yes, certainly! What do you have in mind? Servo-driven analogue gauges? A model rocket that maintains the same inclination as in game?

Wow that's sweet! Now I want one! :D

It takes some tweaking of deadspace. The response is not symmetrical and it's hard to move x or y without twisting (z). I'd go for 2-axis joysticks with a separate 3rd axis control.

I know, right? There's more great builds in progress on the KSP forums. Mine is only special because it is done :D

With the guide it will be much faster than from scratch, but take enough slack for troubleshooting etc. I would say it can be done in 40 hours if all goes well.

Thanks milkywayman (great user name)!That is a brilliant idea! I know multiplexing from working with 7-segment displays. Combining multiplexing with using registers is a great idea. It reduces wires on both sides of the registers...If I ever build a 2.0, this will definitely be the way to go.

Haha awesome, thanks! Please do share your progress on the ksp forums or the /r/KerbalControllers subreddit. We are there to help.

*wish

Thanks! I which people did that to me in real life :)

Thanks a lot! What do you mean with the X series?