instructible01

I agree with the post on the second Arduino. A little change there and you can save that cost. My question is why the Ethernet shield rather than WiFi for all connectivity? I thought maybe you didn't have WiFi but you mention using it for the web cam so it would have saved you wiring cost and some hassle with the proto board. Overall, nice project

I was thinking the same thing. My thought on addressing this is to either add a piece of 1/8 hardboard to the back or you can add something that is thicker as desired.

I agree with other comments that a 7/8" walnut should be strong enough but if you think you will need the additional strength (and a cool factor) you could drill out the center of each piece and glue in a a metal rod with epoxy (contemporary) or you could glue in a wooden dowel (traditional).

Nice job! One other thought. If we were to replace the wooden dowel with a common unthreaded rod without adhesive we could then rotate each hook in or out of parallel to the wall as needed.

This design is more for hanging the coat on by the neck/collar rather than a loop.

Nice Job!

If you have a space that is long enough, then it seems that it is a matter of :1) Fix the bottom of the front to some bottom cleats with screws, biscuits or pegs2) Turn the the top slats 90 degrees/perpendicular/long ways to their current orientation. And add some underpinning supports to go under the slats so they don't sag. Those supports would run perpendicular to the long length of the sofa. (The same direction that the old slats went.) 3) Due to the length you may have to add some supports into the slats themselves so the slats don't sag over the length when extended. This would most likely require making the slats 2x4 instead of 1x4 to bolster it.

oops.. found it lower in the comments.what's your general lead time and how do we're get the printed parts of they are not part of the price?

since you mentioned it, how much for a completed unit?

Most times you can just invert the can then spray for a few seconds until clear propellant comes out. I have been doing that for over 30 years and have never had a can clog on me whether Rust-Oleum or cheap stuff. I guess if you only lots of short jobs you might run out of propellant but I have also never had an issue with that.

Nice -ible. Having just replaced my front door, I am right there with you. Thanks for taking the time to document your process! A couple of comments/sugestions. I didn't see where you mentioned the final depth settings for the router to cut the panels or whether you recommended several passes to remove all material. Depth can be figured out by the size of the inset trim you mention but that is variable (increased) by 1/8" if the reader chooses not to make the inserts/inlay. Choosing not to use the inlay, makes the trim depth deeper by that 1/8" so that may throw off some folks if they choose to skip that step.For safety, I prefer to cut the 45's for the trim on the larger board edge before cutting the trim width from the larger board. That way I'm not having to manipulate...

Nice -ible. Having just replaced my front door, I am right there with you. Thanks for taking the time to document your process! A couple of comments/sugestions. I didn't see where you mentioned the final depth settings for the router to cut the panels or whether you recommended several passes to remove all material. Depth can be figured out by the size of the inset trim you mention but that is variable (increased) by 1/8" if the reader chooses not to make the inserts/inlay. Choosing not to use the inlay, makes the trim depth deeper by that 1/8" so that may throw off some folks if they choose to skip that step.For safety, I prefer to cut the 45's for the trim on the larger board edge before cutting the trim width from the larger board. That way I'm not having to manipulate the narrow piece on the table saw, just the cross cut for length but hands can stay away from the saw blade on those. However, for the volume of trim you are producing it does mean moving the fence more so it could decrease trim uniformity so your process is better from a precision standpoint. Thanks again for sharing!

I would disagree. This is fine for a toddler so long as its placed out of reach. The brass lock and standard screws are fine. :)

Rich, though I would not recommended this for any significant security need, I wood disagree that it provides zero security. First, I will make the statement that the method of engaging and disengaging the lock is security by obscurity which is unreliable but you are evaluating this from the standpoint of someone who has seen the other side of the door and has entire knowledge of the project. Looking at it from the standpoint of someone who walks up to the door and finds it locked, it is a deterrent so much as they aren't willing to kick the door in. That person would also most likely not know how to overcome the automation in a stealthy manner. Itis probably great for siblings or minorly annoying roommates as it stands. However, it would, without a doubt, need a significant upgrade to ...

Rich, though I would not recommended this for any significant security need, I wood disagree that it provides zero security. First, I will make the statement that the method of engaging and disengaging the lock is security by obscurity which is unreliable but you are evaluating this from the standpoint of someone who has seen the other side of the door and has entire knowledge of the project. Looking at it from the standpoint of someone who walks up to the door and finds it locked, it is a deterrent so much as they aren't willing to kick the door in. That person would also most likely not know how to overcome the automation in a stealthy manner. Itis probably great for siblings or minorly annoying roommates as it stands. However, it would, without a doubt, need a significant upgrade to manage external security.

You can get many different books on amazon. Search for learning arduino. There's also the sparkfun.com inventors kit. That has parts and a learners guide.