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  • jiggz0r commented on uitechclub's instructable Easy Cab (arcade)2 years ago
    Easy Cab (arcade)

    Thanks, I take that as a great compliment coming from the author itself :)

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  • jiggz0r commented on uitechclub's instructable Easy Cab (arcade)2 years ago
    Easy Cab (arcade)

    You can easily fit a modern (16:9) 24" or 27". However I wanted the 4:3 retro-look so I went for the biggest 4:3 easily available. I'm using a Samsung 20", model Syncmaster 204B. I got it for free from work.

    I wouldn't go bigger than 24" though, and the ideal size is probably 20"-22".

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  • jiggz0r commented on uitechclub's instructable Easy Cab (arcade)2 years ago
    Easy Cab (arcade)

    I mean only the braces (attached to the sides) are screwed from the inside. All the rest is screwed through the plywood from the outside (using black screws).

    I went from inside, and I used 6cm screws which were the perfect length. (The braces are 4.5cm so the rest would go through the plywood from the inside).

    I mean the braces are screwed from the inside. All the rest is screwed through the plywood from the outside (using black screws).

    Thanks! Still enjoying it :)I used 5 rolls of dc-fix. 2x90cm (sides) and 3x67,5cm for the rest (2 could be enough depending on how much you decide to use).

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  • jiggz0r commented on uitechclub's instructable Easy Cab (arcade)2 years ago
    Easy Cab (arcade)

    Sure. I took some pictures of my own notes. Hope they are readable/viewable."Skiva 1" means plywood sheet 1 and "Skiva 2" means plywood sheet 2. These "skiva-pictures" are not including measurements and are just ment as an overview from where/how I cut my pieces.The pic with all the pieces has my final measurements in it. (There were some last minute changes during the end of the project, therefore there are some changes in the pic also). The neon mark was just a note for myself so I would remember to cut that line in a 45 degree angle.The side layout picture has the "real" measurements written in the pic, and the measurements I had to modify are those in the parenthesis'. I once again had to modify the measurements because the plywood sheet lengt...

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    Sure. I took some pictures of my own notes. Hope they are readable/viewable."Skiva 1" means plywood sheet 1 and "Skiva 2" means plywood sheet 2. These "skiva-pictures" are not including measurements and are just ment as an overview from where/how I cut my pieces.The pic with all the pieces has my final measurements in it. (There were some last minute changes during the end of the project, therefore there are some changes in the pic also). The neon mark was just a note for myself so I would remember to cut that line in a 45 degree angle.The side layout picture has the "real" measurements written in the pic, and the measurements I had to modify are those in the parenthesis'. I once again had to modify the measurements because the plywood sheet length and width didn't match exactly when converting to the metric system. (The EU version of the plywood is exactly 2400mm x 1200mm, and the US version is a bit longer and wider). This is no big deal however, just make sure that the height on the front are kept up until the control panel (99cm). Also use 18mm for marquee, and adjust the remaining ("monitor area") according to the plywood height.As a side note I can say that my Arcade setup has a 20" monitor, pretty much the largest 4:3 available. (I have access to old ones/spare ones, so this was the perfect size for me). I'm running the whole thing from a Raspberry Pi 3, with the RetroPie distribution. Works like a charm.

    Yeah, another thing. I didn't draw the "white line" 1-1/8” inch (converts to 29mm) from the edge. I left it at 25mm, which was a good call. It would look good even at 20mm, but at 29mm the "lip" around the whole cabinet is too deep in my opinion.

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  • jiggz0r made the instructable Easy Cab (arcade)2 years ago
    Easy Cab (arcade)

    Thanks for this instructable. It was an AWESOME project. I've converted all measurements to the metric system. I'll upload a bunch of pictures, as a picture is worth a thousand words. Feel free to ask me anything.Some modifications:- The whole arcade is covered with DC-Fix adhesive film (Blackwood). Much cheaper and nicer method than MDF :)- Control Panel has a plexiglass sheet installed on top of the plywood. I also laid out some printed arcade figured in between the plywood and the plexiglass. Yay.- T-molding wasn't available in my country (Finland) so I used a "list" called "reunanauha" in finnish. It's available in a 10m roll. No idea what the english term is. You basically use an iron to "install" it and the heat will make it stick to the plywood edges...

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    Thanks for this instructable. It was an AWESOME project. I've converted all measurements to the metric system. I'll upload a bunch of pictures, as a picture is worth a thousand words. Feel free to ask me anything.Some modifications:- The whole arcade is covered with DC-Fix adhesive film (Blackwood). Much cheaper and nicer method than MDF :)- Control Panel has a plexiglass sheet installed on top of the plywood. I also laid out some printed arcade figured in between the plywood and the plexiglass. Yay.- T-molding wasn't available in my country (Finland) so I used a "list" called "reunanauha" in finnish. It's available in a 10m roll. No idea what the english term is. You basically use an iron to "install" it and the heat will make it stick to the plywood edges.- LED light strip is installed on the marquee edges for extra "light effect" :-)...and probably more modifications as well, just ask if you wonder :)

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