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Just saying... Anybody who works for a company with more than 50 employees is likely to be subject to a corporate security policy. In a world where chief executives get personally sued over security breaches, this sort of thing is taken very seriously. You had a legitimate use for this device... circumventing security so you can leave your computer unattended without securing it is not a legitimate use and could get the person who does that in deep trouble!
Careful! Where I work, anybody caught using such a device would be subject to disciplinary action, up to and including termination, for circumventing security policy!
This continues to be one of my favorite effects to do. I also found the perfect suit to wear with this!
Interesting circuit. Big fan of Forrest Mims III circuits (I had most of his old Radio Shack books) and a big fan of cigar boxes. Here's a tip: If you put a piece of scrap wood behind your cigar box lid, you can minimize splintering when drilling it.
I will definitely try this! I've successfully used the stovetop method many times, but it does require a good deal of attention to keep the cans completely submerged. I was considering trying the pressure cooker method, but this looks even easier and safer! Store-brand or generic sweetened condensed milk works just fine and is much less expensive than the "name-brand" or commercially canned Dulce de Leche. This stuff is great on ice cream (if you can avoid just eating it straight from the can!)
Cool! You can replace the borrowed or missing 8550's with almost any small signal PNP switching transistor, such as a 2N2907 or a 2N3906.I buy 2N3906's (and the NPN complement 2N3904's) by the hundreds on ebay or geek.wish.com for a couple bucks!
Or, S8550's are just as cheap!
Check your transistors carefully. TWO are PNP, and THREE are NPN. Make sure the PNPs are in the right place.I believe, going by the legends on the PCB, that Q1 and Q3 should be PNP (8550) and Q2, Q4, and Q5 should be NPN (8050).All the driver positions on the board are labeled 8050. Q3 is mislabled.If you mixed up these transistors, that would explain your odd results!
Would be cool to wire up a couple of tilt switches to it and program it so you can flip it over and have the LEDs "flow" back the other way.
OK... I was confused by the fact that there is no connection to pin 2, the Q1 output of the 4017. However, I did not notice that one of the LED driver transistors is a PNP. So when the Q1 output goes HIGH, all the other outputs are LOW and that PNP transistor turns on.I also found this schematic, which also appears to be nearly identical:http://www.555-timer-circuits.com/led-dice.htmlI'll build one of my kits this weekend and see how mine works.
Another pretty good source of these kits is geek.wish.comShipping can be slow (plan on at least 2 weeks, probably more) but it's pretty easy to get a refund for items that don't show up.
Oh, wow! I just realized that pin 2 of the 4017 is not connected to anything at all... That's how you can throw a "0"! Yikes!I have a new project... trying to fix this circuit!
Cocobolo may be the most fun wood name to say. Well, either that or Bubinga...Nice table!
As others have mentioned, a drill press mechanism is not designed for lateral pressure. I'd recommend using this only for very occasional use, and only with very light pressure (let the sand paper do the work, not pressure!) If you see yourself doing a lot of this type of sanding, spindle sanders start at about $100.
Raspberry Pi Class
What You'll Need & Learn
Nice job!I'm mulling over a dual-regulator version so I can have different voltages on the 2 busses...
Also, if you choose 300 ohms as your R2 value, R1 can be hit exactly using standard 1% resistor values for all desired voltages:Voltage - R1 = R1a + R1b1.5v - 60 = 30 + 303v - 420 = 220 + 2003.3v - 492 = 430 + 625v - 900 = 470 + 4306v - 1140 = 750 + 3909v - 1860 = 1.5K + 360
Also, if you choose 300 ohms as your R1 value, R2 can be hit exactly using standard 1% resistor values for all desired voltages:Voltage - R2 = R2a + R2b1.5v - 60 = 30 + 303v - 420 = 220 + 2003.3v - 492 = 430 + 625v - 900 = 470 + 4306v - 1140 = 750 + 3909v - 1860 = 1.5K + 360
Those are actually all standard 2-5% resistor values, but they are all readily available in 1% resistors, too. I had all of these values in a resistor kit purchased on eBay.Search for "1/4w 1% resistor assortment"I bought one of the 3120 piece assortments (20 each of 156 values) for under $15 shipped.
I had a bird problem, too. I solved it by tying long strips of reflective mylar (previously I used strips cut from an old insulated shopping bag, this year I purchased mylar "space blankets" on eBay) to the tops of each cage. They move with the slightest breeze and reflect the sunlight. The birds steer clear!
Yep. A set of 14" bolt cutters will run about $15 at your local big-box hardware store.
I live just east of Kansas City, Missouri. I have lived in Southern California, too, and the best tomatoes we ever grew there was with the aid of chicken manure, applied a few weeks before planting. This year, put a handful of worm castings and a little epsom salts in each hole where I planted my tomatoes. All my plants (except 1!) look really good this year, so far.
Those are some nice cages! I got tired of flimsy commercial tomato cages a few years ago and bought a 150 foot roll of 6x6x10x10 concrete reinforcing remesh. (6x6x10x10 = 6 inch x 6 inch opening, 10 squares or 5 feet high, and 10 gauge wire). I cut off 6 foot lengths and zip-tied the edges together to make cylinders (roughly 2 feet in diameter). They are NOT rustproof... but it will take YEARS for them to rust through! I staked them to the ground this year with 3 foot lengths of rebar driven 2 feet into the soil, 3 per cage (previous years I used 2 foot wooden stakes driven 1 foot deep... but I did have 1 cage fall over!) And I still have most of the roll of remesh in my garage! I've also made 2.5 foot extensions to attach to the top of the cage when the plants get really tall. One of ...
Those are some nice cages! I got tired of flimsy commercial tomato cages a few years ago and bought a 150 foot roll of 6x6x10x10 concrete reinforcing remesh. (6x6x10x10 = 6 inch x 6 inch opening, 10 squares or 5 feet high, and 10 gauge wire). I cut off 6 foot lengths and zip-tied the edges together to make cylinders (roughly 2 feet in diameter). They are NOT rustproof... but it will take YEARS for them to rust through! I staked them to the ground this year with 3 foot lengths of rebar driven 2 feet into the soil, 3 per cage (previous years I used 2 foot wooden stakes driven 1 foot deep... but I did have 1 cage fall over!) And I still have most of the roll of remesh in my garage! I've also made 2.5 foot extensions to attach to the top of the cage when the plants get really tall. One of my plants last year grew to over 9 feet tall in its 7.5 foot cage!
Agree. I would encapsulate all the exposed wiring in a blob of silicone sealant.
I like those dial plates! It's worth noting, if you want to build other projects to match this, that they are less expensive the more you buyYou get 2 for $4.34 ($2.17 each, the link you provided)Or... you can get 5 for $6.44 ($1.29 each) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0147XRJ0OOr... you can get 10 for $8.41 (84¢ each) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0147XDQQA
You do need the diode because an LED can only tolerate about 5-6 volts of reverse voltage.
No. You need to either use a DC gear motor or remove the servo control board and wire directly to the motor. Also, the servo should be a continuous rotation type.
Yes! Absolutely! The 555 is a great chip to have in your arsenal! No better way to learn it than to actually use it!
Yes, an Arduino is overkill for this project. But, so is a 555 timer.
If you have a Firehouse Subs near you, they sell their bright red 5-gallon pickle buckets for $2 each. Proceeds go to provide life-saving equipment and resources for firefighters, police, and EMTs. The buckets do smell like pickles, but that shouldn't matter for this use! Good sandwiches, too!
A Zipperface is always a fun costume to do!
OK... I see from the datasheet of a TDA2822 that this is a correct bridge configuration. Normally for a bridged amp, you have to drive both inputs. Apparently this amp chip takes care of that internally.
Well... it could be a bridged amplifier... except the input of one of the amps is grounded, so only 1 amp in the chip is active! To make it a bridged amp, you'd have to unground pin 6 and feed an inverted copy of the input signal to pin 6.The way this amp is designed, half of the amp chip is wasted.