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kd8bxp

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23Instructables155,043Views77CommentsMiddletown, Ohio
I am a Ham Radio operator, computer geek, currently a service tech, robotic hobbyist. I've been "playing" with microcontrolers for the last several years, basic stamps, arduinos, and arduino like controllers, Raspberry PI, PICs & PICaxe.

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  • kd8bxp commented on lingib's instructable Webcam Ruler
    Webcam Ruler

    In the processing ide, click on sketch, then "add library" - search for video (the description is something like GStreamer-based video library) made by The processing foundation - install it. that worked for me. hope it helps you out.

    Your Welcome, happy to help.

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  • Using a Raspberry PI Zero W As an Access Point and MQTT Broker

    Perhaps the version of raspbian you are using, pretty sure I used "jessie" for this, which was an old version even at time I did it. if you post the output of "systemctl status dhcpcd.service" and journalct -xe someone might be able to help figure it.

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  • International Space Station Tracker

    open-notify.org provides upcoming passes, you just need to get the time from a RTC or NTP server and do some math on how long before the next pass. You could also provide the distance (rough, distance) from your location to the ISS on the display. While the ISS is not close enough to see it -you could display weather, and how many people are in space (open-notify provides the names and other information about who is in space). I made a simple tracker years ago, nothing like this - I think I want to build this. This would also be good for tracking amateur satellites as someone else pointed out, but I don't know a good api to get that information - if anyone does, please let me. Great idea, great project, great proof of concept and real world tests.

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  • 3D Print Bed Leveling Tool Using M5StickC

    I think you miss understood, the limitation is in the type of material the pressure sensor is made from. The original poster of the question asked about using it after you preheat the extruder and bed. I was just making the comment that it should be mentioned in the instructable.I like the project, I think it will help quite a bit. I'm also experienced with soldering - generally pretty good at it, but given how the sensor is made, the type of material it is made from, and the warning from Adafruit and Sparkfun... personally I just feel it would be better to use the FCI Clincher connector that Sparkfun recommends.That isn't a limitation of the project, it's a limitation of the material the sensor is made from. Sorry, I apologize if you thought I was saying something negitive about the pr…

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    I think you miss understood, the limitation is in the type of material the pressure sensor is made from. The original poster of the question asked about using it after you preheat the extruder and bed. I was just making the comment that it should be mentioned in the instructable.I like the project, I think it will help quite a bit. I'm also experienced with soldering - generally pretty good at it, but given how the sensor is made, the type of material it is made from, and the warning from Adafruit and Sparkfun... personally I just feel it would be better to use the FCI Clincher connector that Sparkfun recommends.That isn't a limitation of the project, it's a limitation of the material the sensor is made from. Sorry, I apologize if you thought I was saying something negitive about the project. I really like the project, I like that it's simple, it's easy to understand what it's doing, and it uses an M5StickC.

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  • 3D Print Bed Leveling Tool Using M5StickC

    Got you, it is a limitation, and probably should be said in the instructable. I plan on building it, it seems simple, and at least a tool to help. I'm going to order the Amphenol FCI Clincher connector that Sparkfun recommends, just seems like a good idea to not solder the plastic, no matter how fast you are :-)

    I've got nothing to do with the project, but considering the force sensor is plastic, and will melt, you probably don't want to heat the extruder...200C is 392F. Plastics start to melt around 100 to 160C - (212 - 320F)The Adafruit website even warms of soldering header pins to it, unless you are very quick. https://www.adafruit.com/product/166Sparkfun gives the same warning, and a possible solution if you really need to solder to it. https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9375So that tells me it is probably a bad idea to heat the extruder.

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  • Making Vacuum Former for £2 Out of Scrap Material Using 3D Printed Molds

    Maybe a hair dryer with one of those large cones on it.... I know I've seen something that the cone has the heat elements in it - but I don't know what it's called, so I may have just imaged it. Gave me some ideas, I am also looking into getting a couple of heat lamps.Yes, I was thinking about some type of handle. Thanks for the ideas thou.

    I was thinking of a heat gun with a heat spreader/cone on it - but that may still not be enough. I think I'll look into some heat lamps.

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  • Making Vacuum Former for £2 Out of Scrap Material Using 3D Printed Molds

    This seems surprisingly easy, but I am trying to think of something safer than sticking your arm into a hot oven - I'm thinking, a heat gun with a heat spreader, or heat lamps. I'm sure the heat gun will get hot enough, most of those can melt the plastic floor tiles pretty easy. I'm not sure about a heat lamp. Any thoughts?

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  • Simple Weather Display Using Raspberry PI and Cyntech WeatherHAT

    This looks great, I think some type of display is what is missing on this HAT - now just need a nice 3D printed case, and your all set. :-)I worked on a ISS display using just the HAT - https://github.com/kd8bxp/WeatherHAT/tree/issOf course if you look at the original ESP8266/ESP32 project, there is more information that can be displayed as well, so it should be easy enough to port the entire ESP32 ISS display project over (easy is relative of course) - but I did use that project as the base to start on displaying iss on this HAT :-) every thing has to start from somewhere.(If you have the script set to autostart, you need to sudo killall python before you try the iss.py script, otherwise you may run into problems.)You may also want to submit a pull request into the original project once …

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    This looks great, I think some type of display is what is missing on this HAT - now just need a nice 3D printed case, and your all set. :-)I worked on a ISS display using just the HAT - https://github.com/kd8bxp/WeatherHAT/tree/issOf course if you look at the original ESP8266/ESP32 project, there is more information that can be displayed as well, so it should be easy enough to port the entire ESP32 ISS display project over (easy is relative of course) - but I did use that project as the base to start on displaying iss on this HAT :-) every thing has to start from somewhere.(If you have the script set to autostart, you need to sudo killall python before you try the iss.py script, otherwise you may run into problems.)You may also want to submit a pull request into the original project once you get your instructable done - I'm sure with the renewed interest in this project the original creator would like to see it as well.

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  • Simple Weather Display Using Raspberry PI and Cyntech WeatherHAT

    @Itsmedoofer Everyone is in the UK, I'm the odd man out. LOL - it's no problem, and I plan on doing more work to this, renewed interest, some of the ideas on the original github page now, now I'm interesting in using this to display the ISS with the rainbow. Still a lot of little projects going on, but I'm getting excited by this again. :-)

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  • Simple Weather Display Using Raspberry PI and Cyntech WeatherHAT

    LOL, Maybe I'm just old school, when it comes to cron, been using it for years, and I never really got into using rc.local :-) Yes, many different ways now a days to get (They could also make a service for systemd thou I never really got into using that either) To get cron to run as a super user (sudo) you edit the cron job like:sudo crontab -e And that will run the script each time like it is sudo, like I said many ways to do it now. :-) The & tells the system to run the program (app or whatever) in the background, releasing the foreground so you can still use your computer. It's very handy, and it is really important. So some good news, this project was finally added to the original project - the git pull request was finally accepted -The really good news is user Boeeerb has some id…

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    LOL, Maybe I'm just old school, when it comes to cron, been using it for years, and I never really got into using rc.local :-) Yes, many different ways now a days to get (They could also make a service for systemd thou I never really got into using that either) To get cron to run as a super user (sudo) you edit the cron job like:sudo crontab -e And that will run the script each time like it is sudo, like I said many ways to do it now. :-) The & tells the system to run the program (app or whatever) in the background, releasing the foreground so you can still use your computer. It's very handy, and it is really important. So some good news, this project was finally added to the original project - the git pull request was finally accepted -The really good news is user Boeeerb has some ideas on some changes to the timings, and adding the conditions like fog and haze - apparently they can dim the cloud and that is what they though would work for fog and haze. They are also in your part of the world (not sure where) but they pretty much said the same "cloudy" and "rain".... Kind of interesting, the renewed interest in this hat. It's a good sign thou, so I need to update the instructable again.

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  • Simple Weather Display Using Raspberry PI and Cyntech WeatherHAT

    Pushed a new update a few minutes ago (Oct 6, 2020 3:30ish Eastern time), not critical - but it does have the "clear" condition, which for some reason openweathermaps is using for sunny - not sure if "clear" and "sunny" are the same, but I'll go with it. For everyone else I also added the what needs to change for the url if you should decide that the city, state, country isn't working correctly for you.And the timing correction by @Itsmedoofer I think those are the only changes, as always if you think of a way to display some of the conditions we are not displaying, let me know, if you see a condition that you think should be displayed let me know.

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  • Simple Weather Display Using Raspberry PI and Cyntech WeatherHAT

    @Itsmedoofer Ok, I made the change over here as well. Of course today we didn't have clouds or rain - so now it's a waiting game again. However I did find a condition that I missed, so I'll get that fixed up and push some new code to get hub very soon - probably tomorrow, just because too many things are going on tonight.I'm sure there is a fix to the timing issue (if it is a timing issue), it's just going to take some time to work it out I think. Thanks for the help, and we will get it sorted :-) Have a great day.

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  • Simple Weather Display Using Raspberry PI and Cyntech WeatherHAT

    Quite possible, I didn't, but I'm not sure if I needed to a couple of years ago. (It may depend on which version of python installed as well) I'll make a note of it thou, because like most things in life - everything is different and changes :-)

    @Itsmedoofer I pretty much echoed what we are talking about here, just wanted you guys to know that I did update the instructable. Yes, cloudy and rain is all we have - we need the rain, but I'm pretty sick of it now LOL. The timing issue I am pretty sure that is in the weatherhat.py script:```def cloudrun(self): while self.cloudrunning == 1: for i in range(60,1,-1): if j == 1: if k == 1: self.cloud1(j) self.cloud2(i) sleep(0.005) self.cloud3(i) sleep(0.005) sleep(0.005) self.cloud4(j) self.cloud5(k) sleep(0.005) self.cloud6(k) self.cloud1(0) self.cloud2(0) self.cloud3(0) self.cloud4(0) self.cloud5(0) self.cloud6(0)```The above is one of the functions (the one I thin…

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    @Itsmedoofer I pretty much echoed what we are talking about here, just wanted you guys to know that I did update the instructable. Yes, cloudy and rain is all we have - we need the rain, but I'm pretty sick of it now LOL. The timing issue I am pretty sure that is in the weatherhat.py script:```def cloudrun(self): while self.cloudrunning == 1: for i in range(60,1,-1): if j == 1: if k == 1: self.cloud1(j) self.cloud2(i) sleep(0.005) self.cloud3(i) sleep(0.005) sleep(0.005) self.cloud4(j) self.cloud5(k) sleep(0.005) self.cloud6(k) self.cloud1(0) self.cloud2(0) self.cloud3(0) self.cloud4(0) self.cloud5(0) self.cloud6(0)```The above is one of the functions (the one I think is causing the issue). You can see there are two sleep statements back to back, and self.cloud4(j) and self.cloud5(j) are together - what I think is one of the sleep statements should be inbetween the cloud4 and cloud5 statements.I'm not sure but I think there are two sets of 3 leds for the cloud. I want to dig into that script a little more and see what each command does, but that is going to take a little time to do - and I'm really not sure when I might be able to get to play.I really think the problem is in the weatherhat.py script, but without breaking down what it is really doing it is hard to say for sure. Maybe one day I'll be able to know more.

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  • Simple Weather Display Using Raspberry PI and Cyntech WeatherHAT

    @Itsmedoofer Just updated the instructable, I am still getting over cast and rain - so let me know if it finally changes, or if you think it isn't displaying something it should.

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  • Simple Weather Display Using Raspberry PI and Cyntech WeatherHAT

    Ok so, I think it is a timing issue - in the weatherhat.py file there are some sleep statements, I just was playing around and changing some of those for the cloudrun routine - and yes it changed the display. I didn't write that one, that came from Cyntech - it maybe good to report the issue to them on their github repository - I'm not sure if you'll get very far, I'm not sure they are supporting this any longer, but it might be worth a try. For me to dig into this a bit more is going to take some time, and that will have to go back down on the list on things I have to do vs things I would like to do. Since I forked the original repository to create this, it's probably better that any issues you have with the getWeather script be reported here, I may or may not see the issues on the git…

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    Ok so, I think it is a timing issue - in the weatherhat.py file there are some sleep statements, I just was playing around and changing some of those for the cloudrun routine - and yes it changed the display. I didn't write that one, that came from Cyntech - it maybe good to report the issue to them on their github repository - I'm not sure if you'll get very far, I'm not sure they are supporting this any longer, but it might be worth a try. For me to dig into this a bit more is going to take some time, and that will have to go back down on the list on things I have to do vs things I would like to do. Since I forked the original repository to create this, it's probably better that any issues you have with the getWeather script be reported here, I may or may not see the issues on the github repository - the issues go to the original repository.

    I noticed the same, I'm not sure if it is my script or if it is something in the weatherHat library (or the hardware itself)- I'm also not sure if I know enough to correct it. There maybe a timing issue going on. - I am questioning the 5 minute update that I originally used for one, I don't think that would have effect on that issue. I guess what I'm saying is I really don't have a clue about that one :-) or :-( depending on how you look at it.

    @ Itsmedoofer The sopel-modules.weather module you suggested might have worked as well, it looked to me like it required more setup than just putting an api key in and reading the information directly. (It did have 3 different weather APIs it could use, but like I said, lots more setup - so I went simple) And in the end Open Weather Maps wasn't the massive re-write I thought it would be. But yeah, I got cloudy and rain....I was hoping today would be different... There are still limits, haze, fog, ect still not sure what it should display, and since it was a quick fix I may have missed a condition that it could display, so use it and watch, and if you think it isn't right let me know and I'll see if we can fix it. @ajsorchard @Itsmedoofer

    :-) Your welcome, the fix was a quick one, so I wouldn't go as far to say it would be your fault - plenty could still go wrong - so far all we have seen is the rain, and clouds. So there may be other issues lurking. I was hoping for a change in weather so I could see something else - but we need the rain, so I'm not really complaining. Once you get it running, I'd keep an eye on it just to make sure.BTW: the city name can also contain the state and country code (In fact if you put the state it also needs the country code at least it did on my side)IE: "Dayton" would become "Dayton, OH, USA" the state is the two letter upper case, I was looking for a list on openweather but I didn't see it.Also if that doesn't work for you, you can also use the city id (very long list…

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    :-) Your welcome, the fix was a quick one, so I wouldn't go as far to say it would be your fault - plenty could still go wrong - so far all we have seen is the rain, and clouds. So there may be other issues lurking. I was hoping for a change in weather so I could see something else - but we need the rain, so I'm not really complaining. Once you get it running, I'd keep an eye on it just to make sure.BTW: the city name can also contain the state and country code (In fact if you put the state it also needs the country code at least it did on my side)IE: "Dayton" would become "Dayton, OH, USA" the state is the two letter upper case, I was looking for a list on openweather but I didn't see it.Also if that doesn't work for you, you can also use the city id (very long list), latitude and longitude, or zip code. The URL for each of those would also need to be changed.https://openweathermap.org/current shows how each should be formatted, and the what in the url needs to be changed.You will probably get better results if you can use the state and country. Once we have this running for a little bit, hopefully with no other issues, I plan on adding all this information to the instructable - hopefully others will get use out of it.

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  • Simple Weather Display Using Raspberry PI and Cyntech WeatherHAT

    Yeah, I really don't know when I'll get back to this project - I'll put it higher on the list - It seems people are finding it now, and trying to get some use out of it :-) makes me happy really - I'm just sorry that it's not working any more. I'll take a look at the sopel-modules.weather - Using Openweathermap.org would require a complete re-wright I think, that may not be so bad. But if there was a drop in replacement, that would be a quick fix. I'll see if I can get to this this up coming week - still have a few projects that I just have to get done, but should be able to look this week.

    So as it turns out, open weather api was easier to get to work then I expected, I'm going to let it run on my desk for a couple of days (just to make sure), but expect new code to be uploaded to github very soon - you will need to get an openweathermaps api key - it is free, and if this works, you should just need to download the new code, replace the old code with it - add your api key and change your city.... there were a few other small changes. I need to make sure every 5 minutes doesn't cause problems as well, I'm thinking of increasing the time to every 10 minutes, we will see how it works over the next couple of days. I'll update everyone once I have uploaded the new code.

    It's going to be the same link from the instructable above. If you cloned the directory, cd into the "getWeather" directory, and I think all you need to do is use "git pull" to get the update. You'll need to edit the "getWeather.py" file (nano getWeather.py) and probably need to reboot your raspberry pi. The big difference will be getting an API token from openweathermaps.com - once I make sure it is doing what I think it should, it will make more since. I hope

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  • ESP32/ESP8266 WIFI Display Using MQTT Protocol

    I don't see why not, it's a beyond the scope of this instructable. But you'll need to figure out how your bar graph works, once you have that working, you'll probably need to get the data from your MQTT and use it the same way for your bar graph. Your bar graph may have come with an example sketch use that to see what you need to do.

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    • Upgrade Heathkit Hero Jr Robot With Modern Hardware
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  • L298 DC Motor Driver Demos/Tutorial

    If I am reading the question correctly: You want to put 0v on IN1, and 5v on IN2? and then switch them 5v on IN1 and 0v on IN2. If that is what you are thinking I beleive that would change the direction of the motor - not the speed. If that isn't what you are thinking I'm not sure.

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  • kd8bxp commented on rabbitcreek's instructable Toast Talker
    Toast Talker

    I toast, therefore I am.

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  • Excellent, would love to see the expanded code.

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  • Simplest ESP8266 Local Time Internet Clock With OLED

    It's a watch! :-) Slightly modified code for using with the DStike Deauther Watch - biggest difference is the OLED is a SH1106. And WifiUDP is in the core now, so that needed to be changed slightly, otherwise it's stock code.

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    • TFMini Lidar Display - Like Radar Only With Light! :-)
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  • I came across this instructable while I was looking on how to use the Pixel Kit with Arduino IDE - and after reading this, and the github repository I decided, I didn't need to do anything special. I already has the ESP32 board core installed in the IDE, I selected the "node32s" board (why? just a guess), and compiled one of the WiFi examples - it worked with out doing anything special. I spent a little time, mostly trail and error to find the button pins, and The neopixels were easy to find. For those interested - A0 is the knob - you get values from 4095 to 0.The buttons look like they are active low...(I just used the Arduino example, to test this)PIN 18 is the "B" button - red button on the right edgePIN 23 is the "A" button - inner red buttonPIN 25 is …

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    I came across this instructable while I was looking on how to use the Pixel Kit with Arduino IDE - and after reading this, and the github repository I decided, I didn't need to do anything special. I already has the ESP32 board core installed in the IDE, I selected the "node32s" board (why? just a guess), and compiled one of the WiFi examples - it worked with out doing anything special. I spent a little time, mostly trail and error to find the button pins, and The neopixels were easy to find. For those interested - A0 is the knob - you get values from 4095 to 0.The buttons look like they are active low...(I just used the Arduino example, to test this)PIN 18 is the "B" button - red button on the right edgePIN 23 is the "A" button - inner red buttonPIN 25 is joystick rightPIN 26 is joystick leftPIN 27 is joystick buttonPIN 34 is joystick downPIN 35 is joystick upThe neopixels are on PIN 4, it appears that they work better when PIN 2 is set to output and set to HIGH. (I'm not sure if this is true or not, it just appears that way) Adafruits neopixel library works, but has some timing issues, so doesn't work well.NeoPixelBus and FastLED libraries appear to work the best.NeoPixelBus had issues if I lowered the colorSaturation but seemed to work fine if I left it at 128.But I have a question, that I'm hoping you or someone might be able to answer....even if it's not really related to micropython. :-)While I was doing the trail and error for the knob, I found that A3, A4, A13, A14, and A15 all appear to be showing some analog value for something, most of these were pretty stable, so that makes me think they are connected to something. Most were greater than 100 with the highest I saw was just under 800. A5 also has something, but its value was pretty low, never more than about 20 maybe 30 - but did seem to jump around quite a bit.Does any one know what might be connected to these analog pins? My other question is on how to use the USB ports, I don't have a clue here. I tried to do a I2C scanner but it didn't find anything, I just assumed the I2C were the defaults.Are there any sensors on board, or is it just neopixels and buttons.

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      • BLUEBERRY MUFFIN DRAWERS
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    • The Adeept Starry:Bit BBC Micro:Bit Robot With Arduino IDE
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  • It will depend on the size of what you want to target, and how well you can get a good measurement of it. It will depend on lighting, and how much of the image the camera can see, and other outside factors. My goal was never to have it replace a tape measure or other measuring devices. And I never did a good compassion of how close it really was with a good set of measuring devices (never the goal) - I can tell you under my tests it was with in a few inches of what my tape measure said, and that was good enough for what I was attempting to do. (2 inches), It could get way off thou, one of my tests the lighting conditions changed and I had to reprogram the camera. So at best it's a rough guess of how far away something is, and probably shouldn't be used for anything that needs high accura…

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    It will depend on the size of what you want to target, and how well you can get a good measurement of it. It will depend on lighting, and how much of the image the camera can see, and other outside factors. My goal was never to have it replace a tape measure or other measuring devices. And I never did a good compassion of how close it really was with a good set of measuring devices (never the goal) - I can tell you under my tests it was with in a few inches of what my tape measure said, and that was good enough for what I was attempting to do. (2 inches), It could get way off thou, one of my tests the lighting conditions changed and I had to reprogram the camera. So at best it's a rough guess of how far away something is, and probably shouldn't be used for anything that needs high accuracy.

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    • Using the DF Robot Micro Maqueen Micro:Bit Robot Platform With the Arduino IDE
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  • kd8bxp commented on HariFun's instructable Morphing Digital Clock

    100% Animation Inspired Morphing numbers for the Firebeetle ESP32 board with LED Matrix (24x8) https://photos.app.goo.gl/x9N2QBL5rgjy35Zc9 (Still a work in progress to make it a full clock)

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  • kd8bxp commented on HariFun's instructable Morphing Digital Clock

    That's what it's all about - if you see anything that I can improve upon just let me know. Mean while, I've adopted some of the animations here for the Firebeetle-ESP32 board with a small 24x8 matrix. - it works very differently then the matrix display you are using, and my code (so far) is not clean - I am doing all the animations the long "hard way" - and right now I just have one digit - I'll post a video thou, and give you full credit for inspiring the animations. :-)

    I am using a couple of APIs to get timezone information without the need to set it in a the sketch for my latest project. For me it's a two step process, first I get your latitude/longitude from ip-api.com second, I get and set the clock with timezonedb.com based on the lat/longThe code can be found here if you want to take a look at how I did it (Thou there maybe a better way to do it).https://github.com/kd8bxp/M5Stack-ISS-Tracker-Updated

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  • With the compass it is pretty accurate. I think I spaced the tags 6 inches apart, it was a pretty small board. Without the compass it would wonder off a bit, and turning was not great, it would loose traction or if the battery was low wouldn't turn as far. The compass solved most of those issues, but had a built-in difference of about 5 degrees, which would some time would cause it to wonder a little. The robot was able to adjust a bit as it passed over the RF tags. And the compass really helped to keep it moving straight, which improved it greatly. And the end result where I could get it to go where I wanted without "holding" it in a straight line.The biggest issue is this robot needed to pointed/or told which direction it was point in - that was/is the biggest problem with …

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    With the compass it is pretty accurate. I think I spaced the tags 6 inches apart, it was a pretty small board. Without the compass it would wonder off a bit, and turning was not great, it would loose traction or if the battery was low wouldn't turn as far. The compass solved most of those issues, but had a built-in difference of about 5 degrees, which would some time would cause it to wonder a little. The robot was able to adjust a bit as it passed over the RF tags. And the compass really helped to keep it moving straight, which improved it greatly. And the end result where I could get it to go where I wanted without "holding" it in a straight line.The biggest issue is this robot needed to pointed/or told which direction it was point in - that was/is the biggest problem with the current design (as far as I am concerned.)

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  • kd8bxp followed HariFun
      • Morphing Digital Clock
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  • It's probably close to 90 to 95% accurate. There is about 5 degrees of play built into the calculations for the compass. This is because of how fast I can/can't get the motors to really stop. The biggest problem with this design is that the robot has to be told which direction it is facing. If you tell it wrong, accuracy goes to zero fast.I have been brain storming ways to improve this, and have a couple of ideas that I want to try -when I find the time and money for another project like this. Omni-Wheels or Mecanum wheels could solve a lot of the issues I have with this version.

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  • Glad you found these examples useful, I really enjoyed making them. And look forward making more with this microcontroller and display. Thanks.

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  • Nice,Just for information Matts code (at least mostly) is included in the library - as Word100.sayNumber(1234); his original code is also included in the example directory - (Not quite true - I had to change something to get it to work, but the change was very small)There is also a sayHours(); sayMinutes(); which were based off Matts code.and an example to say the Day of the week (based on the date) that in part is based on Matts code as well.And with your permission I'll include this code as an example with links back to this instructable, I'll include the unmodified version.

    You are published! :-) Just updated the library. Thanks you! If you should come up with anything else and want to contribute just let me know.

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  • kd8bxp commented on Naran's instructable Cheapest Smart Home for $38

    Modulation type? FSK, ASK/OOK? I understand this may be different for different parts of the world and different types of outlets - but some clue about which transceiver used would be helpful. I have been unable to find any for under about $5.00 U.S. I have found a number of 433mhz/315mhz TX/RX pairs but they are not transceivers - would these work? http://www.electroschematics.com/9999/rc-link-ask-...I am pretty sure a lot of the RF outlets use these because they are cheap. But not sure they would work with this project.

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  • Hi again, I tried a few things, and I hear what you are saying with the extra little "hissing" and distortions. I thought maybe two strips where causing a problem - I modified the code to use only one strip. But still no luck - in fact it may have been worse, or it may have been because I can hear it now.I can post the single strip version if you'd like. I like the project, I did learn a few things - no solder and glue is very interesting, and the clips for the led strips both are very handy things to know.Thanks - LeRoy

    Nice, I learned about the connector for the strips...that will make life much nicer :-) Wondering why you thought that you couldn't do this with just one UNO (?) I modified your code just slightly, and added TimeAction to it - I have all three things going on.... I only have long strips that I'm not ready to cut (other project) - but can make a video if you want. My modified code can be found here (if you are interested)https://gist.github.com/kd8bxp/4b60292f30e1764fb31259b48b3b3219

    Hmmm,thanks for the answer I kind of hear it - I guess my ears can't pick it up so much. Here is a video of mine - OF course it's not a pumpkin :-) and you'll just have to over look the long neopixel strips.https://photos.app.goo.gl/CqwAgoDKjQh7ecHZ2What I found kind of interesting is the "candle" flicker syncs to the music - it's kind of weird how it did that, and totally unexpected.There are a few other libraries that can do "multi-tasks" with a UNO TimedAction is one of the easier ones to understand what it's doing and how to do it. It's a fun library to play with, and really expands what you can do with a couple of simple changes to the code.

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  • Thanks, it's a Pololu Romi Chassis - links are in the instructable. But(1) Pololu Romi Chassis about $30.00 https://www.pololu.com/product/3500(There are other colors available)(1) Set Pololu Romi Wheel Encoders about $9.00 https://www.pololu.com/product/3542

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