kiwigrinder

Same :-(

Cool project. Kudos!I noticed that the schematic in the attached ZIP file is different from the one you have included in this instructable. (The one included in this instructable simply wont work).The one in the ZIP file will work sort of.1. There is an erroneous connection connecting C7, R9, R10 & D12. This has the effect of shorting R10 and passing the audio signal to ground via D12.2. D10 & D11 serve no purpose. Just wire LED1R, LED1G & LED1B anodes to +12V.3. Transistors are current devices. The base on the NPN draws current and should be limited by a resistor. D14, D13 & D2 should be replaced with a resistor to limit the base.4. MOSFETs are voltage devices so theoretically the gate shouldn't draw or sink current. However MOSFETs aren't perfect. A 10K resistor in se...

Cool project. Kudos!I noticed that the schematic in the attached ZIP file is different from the one you have included in this instructable. (The one included in this instructable simply wont work).The one in the ZIP file will work sort of.1. There is an erroneous connection connecting C7, R9, R10 & D12. This has the effect of shorting R10 and passing the audio signal to ground via D12.2. D10 & D11 serve no purpose. Just wire LED1R, LED1G & LED1B anodes to +12V.3. Transistors are current devices. The base on the NPN draws current and should be limited by a resistor. D14, D13 & D2 should be replaced with a resistor to limit the base.4. MOSFETs are voltage devices so theoretically the gate shouldn't draw or sink current. However MOSFETs aren't perfect. A 10K resistor in series with the gate wouldn't hurt.Keep up the good work :-)

The round hole for the glue stick stops just above the square hole for the WS2812B. So it sits very close but doesn't touch it. It also stops the glue stick from going right though. It makes it a bit hard to put all the glue sticks in place when joining the top and bottom sections, but because they are flexible, you can do it with a bit of patience.

Fantastic design. Since I don;t have access to a laser cutter, my variant of your make is 3D printed. It uses WS2812B LED strips and 7mm x 100mm glue sticks to keep the cost down. (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3403301).

The datasheet for the MAX7219 shows that the minimum voltage is 4V. Running it from a 3.3V supply is not recommended.

Your circuit emulates a LM3914 chip which uses a linear resistor ladder where all resistor values are 1K ohms .The LM3915 chip uses a logarithmic resistor ladder where the values are 1K, 0.41K, 0.59K, 0.83K, 1.17K, 1.66K, 2.34K, 3.31K, 4.69K, 6.63K ohms. The LM3916 chip uses a VU scale and the resistor ladder values are 708, 1531, 923, 819, 1031, 1298, 769, 864, 970 and 1087 ohms.

Nice work. Do you have a template for the acrylic sheet?

Can you please provide the eagle files and the max7219 library that you used. Thankyou

The Electronic LED Hourglass uses STC15W201S microcontroller. This is basically an enhanced 8051 microcontroller which is a INTEL based design. PIC processors are from Microchip and use a completely different instruction set and architecture

I always drill my boards directly after the etch while the toner is still on. It is a lot easier to see the holes.Also once you clean off the toner, spray the copper side with PCB Lacquer otherwise overtime the copper will oxide and turn green.

Great looking animations. Pity you can't see them in real-time.Is there a reason to use the 4 neopixels?A single RGB LED should be able to the same job (you would need to paint the animation more times, but it should still look the same on time lapse camera). A single LED should be lighter and less taxing on the stepper motor that controls the arm.

Where is the fun in that? :-)