kiwigrinder

Neat project 😃 - Would it be possible to upload the STL files for 3D printing. Your One Drive link seems to only include Gerber files and a wiring diagram. Thanks

New Zealand is upside down

Schematic and PCB of my variant

My reasoning was to allow the light level at which it triggered to be adjustable without having to change values in the code. (which you probably also could do by having a trim-pot instead of a fixed resistor in the voltage divider). I didn't want proportional dimming, it was either going to be high brightness in the daytime or when the bedroom light was on and to dim down when the bedroom light was switched off.

One of the problems I had with my build was that at night the display is too bright for my bedroom. I modified one of the legs to hold a light dependent resistor and added a simple comparator with hysteresis to allow the dim the display at night.

See https://www.hackster.io/john-bradnam/7-segment-array-clock-cd5b07

I used 0.28" 7 Segment displays on my build making it only quarter of the size. It then becomes a desktop alarm clock.

Can you please provide the password to the "neopixel vumeter.zip" file. Thanks

Thanks for the suggestion.

Thanks teslahed for an interesting project. I made the following changes:Replaced Arduino Nano with a ATtiny1614 microprocessorAdded a PCB for the componentsCreated a new smaller base to hold the electronics and displayAdded a cover around the display to hide the LED boards and wiringNew software with more animationsMy variant can be found at https://www.hackster.io/john-bradnam/sound-responsive-led-display-8bd82b

Very cool. The finish you achieved is fantastic.

Thanks for an interesting project. I tried to get it it to run on an ATtiny84 only to find out as I was programming it that 512 bytes of RAM is nowhere near enough for the LCD5110_Graph library. Had to design an adapter so that I could use one of the new ATtiny1614 processors.Instructions and files at https://www.hackster.io/john-bradnam/nokia-analog-digital-alarm-clock-bcadbd

Many thanks for an interesting project. My variant uses WS2812B Neopixel LEDs and an ATtiny1614 microprocessor. It is enclosed in a 3D printed case.Instructions: https://www.hackster.io/john-bradnam/neopixel-newton-light-cradle-a1c3d1Video:

Nice job. I made something like this not long ago. I used cheap 4x4 RGB LED Matrix Displays from eBay. It is controlled by a ATtiny85 micro-controller. All components including the battery and mercury switch to turn it on are inside the cube itself. Details of the construction is at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4022751

Hi Utsay_25Could you please check the "Arduino power meter module.txt" that you have uploaded. It doesn't appear to contain any code.Cheers.

Thankyou

Most 1602 LCD boards already support running at 3.3V. If you look at the back of the board, you will notice some pads for missing components. By soldering a ICL7660 or MAX660 for U3 and two 1206 10uF caps for C1 & C2, removing the solder from jumper J1 and soldering a bridge between J3, you can run your LCD from a 3V3 supply. The extra components create a charge pump that generates a -2V supply for the LCD from the 3V3 supply.

Thanks for a fun project. My make of your project is at https://www.instructables.com/Arduino-Soundlab/. Cheers

Thankyou

Nice instructable. I would like to build this but the schematic PDF is not readable. Is there any chance you can upload another one please?

Nice instructableA LED is also photo sensitive and can be used to detect light as well as emit it. I wonder if during the refresh cycle where the LED is not emitting light, you could use it as a photo diode and measure its photo sensitivity through a demultiplexer to an analog pin on the Arduino.

Nice instructable 👍A LED is also photo sensitive and can be used to detect light as well as emit it. I wonder if during the refresh cycle where the LED is not emitting light, you could use it as a photo diode and measure its photo sensitivity through a demultiplexer to an analog pin on the Arduino. 🤔

Nice instructable 👍A LED is also photo sensitive and can be used to detect light as well as emit it. I wonder if during the refresh cycle where the LED is not emitting light, you could use it as a photo diode and measure its photo sensitivity through a demultiplexer to an analog pin on the Arduino.

Cool project. Kudos!I noticed that the schematic in the attached ZIP file is different from the one you have included in this instructable. (The one included in this instructable simply wont work).The one in the ZIP file will work sort of.1. There is an erroneous connection connecting C7, R9, R10 & D12. This has the effect of shorting R10 and passing the audio signal to ground via D12.2. D10 & D11 serve no purpose. Just wire LED1R, LED1G & LED1B anodes to +12V.3. Transistors are current devices. The base on the NPN draws current and should be limited by a resistor. D14, D13 & D2 should be replaced with a resistor to limit the base.4. MOSFETs are voltage devices so theoretically the gate shouldn't draw or sink current. However MOSFETs aren't perfect. A 10K resistor in seri…

Cool project. Kudos!I noticed that the schematic in the attached ZIP file is different from the one you have included in this instructable. (The one included in this instructable simply wont work).The one in the ZIP file will work sort of.1. There is an erroneous connection connecting C7, R9, R10 & D12. This has the effect of shorting R10 and passing the audio signal to ground via D12.2. D10 & D11 serve no purpose. Just wire LED1R, LED1G & LED1B anodes to +12V.3. Transistors are current devices. The base on the NPN draws current and should be limited by a resistor. D14, D13 & D2 should be replaced with a resistor to limit the base.4. MOSFETs are voltage devices so theoretically the gate shouldn't draw or sink current. However MOSFETs aren't perfect. A 10K resistor in series with the gate wouldn't hurt.Keep up the good work :-)

Fantastic design. Since I don;t have access to a laser cutter, my variant of your make is 3D printed. It uses WS2812B LED strips and 7mm x 100mm glue sticks to keep the cost down. (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3403301).

The round hole for the glue stick stops just above the square hole for the WS2812B. So it sits very close but doesn't touch it. It also stops the glue stick from going right though. It makes it a bit hard to put all the glue sticks in place when joining the top and bottom sections, but because they are flexible, you can do it with a bit of patience.

The datasheet for the MAX7219 shows that the minimum voltage is 4V. Running it from a 3.3V supply is not recommended.

Your circuit emulates a LM3914 chip which uses a linear resistor ladder where all resistor values are 1K ohms .The LM3915 chip uses a logarithmic resistor ladder where the values are 1K, 0.41K, 0.59K, 0.83K, 1.17K, 1.66K, 2.34K, 3.31K, 4.69K, 6.63K ohms. The LM3916 chip uses a VU scale and the resistor ladder values are 708, 1531, 923, 819, 1031, 1298, 769, 864, 970 and 1087 ohms.

Nice work. Do you have a template for the acrylic sheet?

Can you please provide the eagle files and the max7219 library that you used. Thankyou

The Electronic LED Hourglass uses STC15W201S microcontroller. This is basically an enhanced 8051 microcontroller which is a INTEL based design. PIC processors are from Microchip and use a completely different instruction set and architecture

I always drill my boards directly after the etch while the toner is still on. It is a lot easier to see the holes.Also once you clean off the toner, spray the copper side with PCB Lacquer otherwise overtime the copper will oxide and turn green.

Great looking animations. Pity you can't see them in real-time.Is there a reason to use the 4 neopixels?A single RGB LED should be able to the same job (you would need to paint the animation more times, but it should still look the same on time lapse camera). A single LED should be lighter and less taxing on the stepper motor that controls the arm.

Where is the fun in that? :-)