mad_b

Hello. Does it as you made, whitstands vacuum forces and temperature?

Hi. A doubt, using coal would be part of the trick (like generating CO2 or so)? Maybe an electric heater would do if not the case? Not questioning costs here.

Sorry I have not read code and maybe missed the information, but how do you calculate the power based on pulses, is a LED pulse emitted each xxx Watts spent and registered by the company meter? Nice smart project ! :)

Hello. The goal (for me) in putting leds as turn lights was to reduce the energy spent on a motorcycle so I can increase the energy that goes to the main headlight from 35W to 60W- I now blink a 1W led instead of a 25 W bulb (plus other overall lamp X LED replacements - it worked for me). +So replacing a lamp by a LED and not taking advantage of less alternator load is a bit pointless to me (there are more considerations in my particular case however). Along with that, I changed the vehicle OEM relay for one specially designed for led lights. However I noted that if I change also to the dashboard indicator lamps (~1.3 Watts) for leds, it seems the whole circuit becomes near the lower limit for the relay (1 front + 1 rear lamp + dashboard ~= 2.08 Watts and I think it need a load of 3W mini…

Hello. The goal (for me) in putting leds as turn lights was to reduce the energy spent on a motorcycle so I can increase the energy that goes to the main headlight from 35W to 60W- I now blink a 1W led instead of a 25 W bulb (plus other overall lamp X LED replacements - it worked for me). +So replacing a lamp by a LED and not taking advantage of less alternator load is a bit pointless to me (there are more considerations in my particular case however). Along with that, I changed the vehicle OEM relay for one specially designed for led lights. However I noted that if I change also to the dashboard indicator lamps (~1.3 Watts) for leds, it seems the whole circuit becomes near the lower limit for the relay (1 front + 1 rear lamp + dashboard ~= 2.08 Watts and I think it need a load of 3W minimum to properly blink at the correct rate).So finally, my question: - if I want to add a resistor to make the dashboard light spend 1 Watt instead of 80 mW, and so making the load circuit to consume at least 3 Watts, I would just calculate (with 14.5V & associated current) my goal resistor instead of this 6R 50 Watts one in your instructable? Like using a 2W resistor with the resulting value for that?

In your place I would make a test. Both original tank material and the glue patch, let it soaked on a gasoline recipient and check it out some days (a month would be ideal) later. It may resist the gasoline, but you must assure that the crack/hole/etc. is held together also. And, the fix must be p´rotected against bending twisting and other mechanical forces over the original damage that is to be fixed. Because unless you use specific, industrial grade gleue/repair/weld materials, there ins no guarantee that it can withstand the normal use of the fixed part.

I am used to make similar things using Acrylic resin (polymer and cataliser). Will certainly try that.

Sorry if I missed, but what is the result sampling rate that you were able to make with this project? Thanks :)

I think probably you did not grasp the values here. Usually in open air, each mm of space needs 1000 Volts to make a spark jump. So if you see a 2cm spark, it means around 20,000 volts. Voltage increase as current decreases. So if you provides 12V @ 2A, probably you are getting 20KV @ 1,2 milli Ampère.If you need 120V 60A, you need to get wires directly from the electricity meter of your house (Where I live, the average capacity to a whole house is 127V @ 40 or 50 Amps...Do your homework and figure it out what exactly do you need.Ohm's law, current x volts x power... By your question sorry but it seems you don't have an idea what you want or are dealing with. So be safe and research a bit more. :)

Hello. I could not find the circuit and code to read the RPM, is it in this project ?I need a pickup circuit that can be read by an Arduino. Your project is cool but are you showing the spark pickup circuit here somewhere? best Regards. Lissandro.

probably is not the problem. The important value here (other than obviously not burning using a small power capacity resistor) is the resistance (220 ohms) - you could use any resistor of 220 ohms with 5 to 500 watts or even more. Nor less.. Problem is somewhere else for sure - if the referred resistor is not shorted or opened of course;

He did not. The SMD ram chip probably got wires soldered to it, or he used a custom PCB. The drawing showing a breadboard is just to ilustrate the circuit.

That seems to be my problem witrh a couple of nanos that I bought (1) ... Thanks for you, and also the seller that pointed out that direction. However in the Windows10 that I used, it found the correct driver alone. Must try this at home tonight on the W7...

Waiting OTA version... :-)

Hello! :) I just begun to study this component, do you know if one could create a program to be programmed into the esp8266 that would allow to use it standalone, with also TX and RX pins as I/O, besides the GPIOs 0-2? I would like to have 4 I/O pins in a standalone single ESP.

Hi. Do you have some figures (how many volts /(mili)amps per what level of heat... Or so?

You need to write a special code testing also if the magnet is stopped right over the sensor... I found similar situation but decided to rewrite nearly all the code though using the same approaches.

Hi! I tried your speedometer code based on the 1KHz timer, but I don't use the serial port; I display the information on another user Interface and the signal is read from a hall sensor conditioned to TTL by a voltage comparator. The speedometer full exemple that you wrote here seems not to be working correctly, however the general interrupt/polling idea was great and I could made a code myself. I changed it to 10 KHz for better precisionm and as I plan to use it on a motorcycle I added a section and pin input for RPM count inside the ISR. Thanks for the usefull information.

Hi. Does this change to use LiFePO4 requires some change on charger or it works the same as original lead acid alternator/rectifiers in the car?

Setp 8 hahahaha cool

No heat needed? Maybe a heat source (like a small 7W incandescent lamp) could provide better results. Fleas are attracted mainly by heat (people and pets do not emit visible light, just IR) :)

HI! this is a cool work! I would recommend search a bit on the net about "rocket stoves", if you want to have a more efficient energy conversion. You will find that the rocket stove has more than 90% of efficiency, thus allowing to consume less wood (or have more heat). An "open" fire like yours generates lots of smoke and wastes most of the wood stored energy.

Usually refrigerator manufacturers recommend leave a few space ~50 millimeters or more on all sides of the equipment, to allow air to flow; however, if one does not decides to fill ALL space around the refrigerator, things should not post a problem. But is good to pay attention in case a particular refrigerator niche is relying on all the space around it in order to function correctly. In practice heat goes up, so upper space is the most important anyway. I have seen below some comment(s) and noted by experience that in fact, region around the refrigerator do get moist and hot. And as such, the wood would need a good paint/finish to avoid a quick dirt and fungus buildup, and in the spices not hermetically sealed as well.