masynmachien

Hi, Sadly, the software might make inches from the millimeters I used.It’s been a while, but I remember it’s rather small, something like a 100mm long when assembled. What you should check are the wheel center holes. These should run smoothly on M3 screws. So they should be just over 3mm. Does this help?

You are very welcome and thanks for the interest. Please check out my other Ible on the improved version too: https://www.instructables.com/Another-Blimp-of-...The WiRC system is no longer available, but a very similar system (but lighter) is still sold (in two parts, for a similar total):https://www.amazon.com/Kyosho-WR-010-iReceiver-Con... +https://www.amazon.com/Kyosho-WC010-iReceiver-Digi...This system however should be powered at a voltage close to 5V and certainly not above 6V. You wil need som regulator to match comming from the LiPo battery +-7.2V and capable of delivering a decent current of 3A. There is a more complex alternative starting from a 3.7 LiPo and a 1 A booster.If you do not have experience in RC models, I strongly recommend getting help from someone local having exp…

You are very welcome and thanks for the interest. Please check out my other Ible on the improved version too: https://www.instructables.com/Another-Blimp-of-...The WiRC system is no longer available, but a very similar system (but lighter) is still sold (in two parts, for a similar total):https://www.amazon.com/Kyosho-WR-010-iReceiver-Con... +https://www.amazon.com/Kyosho-WC010-iReceiver-Digi...This system however should be powered at a voltage close to 5V and certainly not above 6V. You wil need som regulator to match comming from the LiPo battery +-7.2V and capable of delivering a decent current of 3A. There is a more complex alternative starting from a 3.7 LiPo and a 1 A booster.If you do not have experience in RC models, I strongly recommend getting help from someone local having experience in building RC planes.If you do not need a live camera feed there are much cheaper alternatives. Being lighter, these are also easier to build: Some of them you find here (also check the comments on using longer lasting foil balloons): https://www.instructables.com/Masynmachiens-bl...Build as light, really light and regulary check weights and lift capacity.If you have any questions I wil try and help from Belgium.

Hi, how did you get the Adafruit Attiny code to open, to compile and uploaded to the Attiny, as it is not really an Arduino code .ino file?

Voted!Nice to see you keeping up the good work Mario!

Indeed even at 110V it can handle 1100 W, plenty for about any home system.

Sorry, but this is not correct. The program gives a sweeping signal suited to control a servo, not a on/off. You need to simplify the program. For a relay, you need a simple on/of signal (digital output).Also for this kind of power use a relay module rather than a plain module to make sure you do not draw more current than a the digital output pin can give. Actually, the example given seems suited for that, although no clear specs are given.Also very important is that the output side of the relay can handle the current your computer draws. Reading from the picture in the link it can handle 10 A, sufficient for most computers, but take care if it is some power hungry system or if extra systems (large screen,...) are switched on and off too.

Hi,Indeed blimps on the same frequency willinterfere. If you have a large hall you can take advantage of the limited rangeof the toys (about 10m) and keep far enough apart. I guess you could evenorganise an "Estafette" using several controllers on the samefrequency spaced 15m-20m apart, controlling the same blimp over the length ofthe hall. Should be a cool challenge.These toy cars exist in four frequencies27, 35, 40 and 41 Mhz thanks to different regulations in different countries.So not all frequencies might be available or legal in your country. Seriousclassic RC systems use much narrower bands like 27.100, 27.200 etc., allowingfor a lot more systems to be used at the same time. But these cheap toys use awide band and rely on a short range not to cause to many problems.Modern…

Hi,Indeed blimps on the same frequency willinterfere. If you have a large hall you can take advantage of the limited rangeof the toys (about 10m) and keep far enough apart. I guess you could evenorganise an "Estafette" using several controllers on the samefrequency spaced 15m-20m apart, controlling the same blimp over the length ofthe hall. Should be a cool challenge.These toy cars exist in four frequencies27, 35, 40 and 41 Mhz thanks to different regulations in different countries.So not all frequencies might be available or legal in your country. Seriousclassic RC systems use much narrower bands like 27.100, 27.200 etc., allowingfor a lot more systems to be used at the same time. But these cheap toys use awide band and rely on a short range not to cause to many problems.Modern RC systems are on 2.4 Ghz and usea digital code to keep systems from interfering, allowing for a practicallyunlimited number of systems to be used together. This 2.4 Ghz is starting to appearin cheap toys too, but it is not clear what number of systems can be used inparallel. Some Chinese suppliers mention 4 systems can be used in parallel, butothers even claim to sell 2.4 Ghz systems while pictures show a 27 Mhz system. SoI’m not clear on that yet.Succes!

Check out the Kyosho iRaceiver system.Succes!

Hi JiríK30,That sounds like a good approach. I've had good success with the Blynk app and an Arduino nano, a bluetooth module, a small double H- bridge and a FET (for the upwards motor there is no reverse except gravity). I made a version where I can unplug in the modules and one were everything is soldered together.

Hi JiříK30,Step-up convertors and motors are not a good match. But there are motors that work fine at 1.2VHowever I'm guessing the controller in this Instructable does not match your project. It is very cheap, but not the most versatile.If range is an important issue, you should think about a classic remote control system as used for model airplanes and such.Read through my other blimp Instructables, in particular the Sub micro (spy) blimp: https://www.instructables.com/Masynmachiens-blimp-projects/If you have some Arduino skills you could also go for another idea I have been lingering upon: using the app RemoteXY, a Wemos D1 mini pro and one or two Wemos motor shields.Cheers,Yvon"Masynmachien"

You're welcome.The leds take a much lower power than any motor. The 3V circuit can not give enough current for motors. The LEDs must be on the RV as any LED needs lore than 1.2V. Keep motors/actuators on the 1.2V.I do not know if the small sealer does seal the foil. But it is impractical anyway. The outer ends of each seal are always bad, actually at those ends the material gets overheated an damaged, with a good chance on leaks.I use a 30 cm sealer, taking care the outer ends of each seal are outside the shape I want. E.g. approaching a curve with a number of overlapping straight lines. Alas, convex shapes are impossible that way.The 30 cm sealer I use is still reasonably cheap: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Good-quality-all-matel-220v-12-200mm-sealing-length-and-2mm-wide-sealing-Heat-…

You're welcome.The leds take a much lower power than any motor. The 3V circuit can not give enough current for motors. The LEDs must be on the RV as any LED needs lore than 1.2V. Keep motors/actuators on the 1.2V.I do not know if the small sealer does seal the foil. But it is impractical anyway. The outer ends of each seal are always bad, actually at those ends the material gets overheated an damaged, with a good chance on leaks.I use a 30 cm sealer, taking care the outer ends of each seal are outside the shape I want. E.g. approaching a curve with a number of overlapping straight lines. Alas, convex shapes are impossible that way.The 30 cm sealer I use is still reasonably cheap: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Good-quality-all-matel-220v-12-200mm-sealing-length-and-2mm-wide-sealing-Heat-Sealer-Machine/32788517339.htmlKeep me posted on your succes!

Hi,The RC car is powered by a single 1.2V NiMH cell.For the the receiver circuit and the led's this voltage is pumped up to about 3V, but the motor and actuator run at the original 1.2 V.Foil balloons come from balloon shops and once in a while they have the foil foil on a roll too. The foil is hard to find. Once in a while you can find it at specialized (RC blimp) shops. West Coast Blimps used to carry it, but refused to sell outside the US and I can not find their site any more. You van try rc blimps canada.For small projects the easiest is to buy large standard foil balloons and change their shape with a bag sealer.succes!

I used a so called LP4DSM radio. It's in the first picture of step 1.With the DelTang Receiver you can use any Spektrum DSM compatible radio.

Turning is achieved with the tail rotor (propeller facing sidewards blowing either left or right).

Hi Sonnyp99,Cool project!First, using a motor as generator is much simpler than build your own stator and rotor. Even commercial small charging devices (think crank torches, some of which can charge cell phones) are often based on an existing motor used as a generator. For a more high end applications it is very often a device specifically built with specs as a generator, but still with the same technology and on the same production lines as motors.Most low voltage motors, including stepper motors do keep working in clean sweet water for days, weeks and even longer.It does depend on the type of motor and it is hard to tell in advance.But most do last quite a while, so if you only need to explore and demonstrate a working principle you can omit any waterproofing.Dirty and in particular sal…

Hi Sonnyp99,Cool project!First, using a motor as generator is much simpler than build your own stator and rotor. Even commercial small charging devices (think crank torches, some of which can charge cell phones) are often based on an existing motor used as a generator. For a more high end applications it is very often a device specifically built with specs as a generator, but still with the same technology and on the same production lines as motors.Most low voltage motors, including stepper motors do keep working in clean sweet water for days, weeks and even longer.It does depend on the type of motor and it is hard to tell in advance.But most do last quite a while, so if you only need to explore and demonstrate a working principle you can omit any waterproofing.Dirty and in particular salty water will probably shorten the motor's lifetime considerably.If however you want to demonstrate how a real reliable product could be made, you should waterproof your motor.An accessible approach is using waterproof prop shaft assemblies as sold for RC model boats.Succes,masynmachien

Wow!Truly epic!

Cool project!Well documented!

Sorry, no idea.I just scavenged a printer and used the steppers available from that.I think it is not very critical if you just want to power an LED.