Tell us about yourself!
Slick! I used a surplus motorcycle wind shield and velcro to mount it. Not as aero or cool looking as yours, but I can mount a regular visor on glarey days. The wind shield makes riding in the rain much more pleasant, though there is fogging in the winter.
She does look good. What would your "Don't buy this" warning signs be on an old power tool?
A wash with Ospho (http://www.ospho.com/) or the like will keep rust from spreading under a primer.
Well, I do the same with grapefruit peel. Everyone loves it! I'll try the orange version for sure.You might want to add warnings about not overheating the chocolate (ALWAYS under 120 deg F). My niece tried a chocolate candy (I wasn't around) and let it get too hot: the result was grainy and ... not nice. Also, taking the time to temper the chocolate will give you a glossier product that is less likely to melt in your fingers as you're nibbling.
This is as much part of using a chain saw as the wood you're operating on. I've "been there" dozens of times. Thanks for the reminder (and the idea of doing all of one set at one time).Three additional points: 1) Make sure you have the correct file for your chain - there are at least three sizes. 2) When sharpening, look for a skip link as the start point or otherwise mark your starting point, so you don't end up going around more than once. 3) Think about over-tightening chain tension while you're sharpening- it holds the links straighter -- but don't forget to set correct tension before going back to use.
That;'s wonderful. Sadly, my app is a complex stove duct, and I'm afrfaid I'll have to set a tin-knocker loose to get what I want that won't melt. Perhaps your idea of a foam mock-up would still speed the process (and might help in validating installation steps as well.)
You cheated and got an adorable model to present! Thanks for this! (and the model).
Yes, the eccentric mount of the objective is one common method of providing adjustability. My Celestron Oceana, however, uses prism screws near the eyepiece. The first step in collimation is to identify the system used in the binocular.
Delightful to read! How much research was needed before you started? Did you have to travel up any blind alleys?
Inspiring and daunting! The change in photo resolution emphasizes the TIME dimension in this project. A friend of mine started a similar project in Maryland that is now an abandoned hole in the forest... Not everyone has the grit to see it through.
Another tool that helps in cleanup is a fiberglass scratch brush, such as:https://www.amazon.com/Scratch-Brush-Fiberglass-Colors-vary/dp/B0019V18D2/ref=pd_day0_hl_469_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0019V18D2&pd_rd_r=ad3ea381-b5c8-11e8-b96a-75051c3f57a5&pd_rd_w=71JDs&pd_rd_wg=mDmYd&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=JTXWHAS3T8JSJ8Q8SRMY&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=JTXWHAS3T8JSJ8Q8SRMY
FYI, I was surprised to learn that not all chipped cards are RFID active:https://www.ghacks.net/2012/08/21/how-to-protect-y...In fact, almost all chipped cards are NOT active; they use direct contact to the chip. This Instructable is valuable if you've got one of the RFID cards, though!
Nice 'ible! However, I would encourage folks to buy the commercial version to encourage creators of innovative US built tools. The concept is a vital new way to clamp all kinds of tubing. I've used mine for years (though I might swap out the wing nut for your brass "T" handle).
Wire Clamp Making Tool
WOW! You don't mention the best part of the build: it does NOT demand an expensive and hard to install sandpaper tube.I would be tempted to try the drum with the slit alone, without the pin. It would probably hold the paper fine. I had a hand sanding block that worked that way.Finally, it might run more true if the threaded rod was ground smooth in the way of the chuck.
I use this: http://www.ospho.com/ under a zinc-chromate primer. Slows down rust when it's already started...
Looks great! Your refurb was the inverse of mine; my cover was shot and the seat pan was heavily rusted. Anyone excavating down to the seat pan should consider passivating and priming the steel before replacing the foam, however.
Hee hee, there's no trick -- you actually DID IT!
I have alwasys used the fiersest pain removers, but it is very hard on my skin and the environment.
One thought: When you've done such wonderful work making the custom divider, how about leaving it to float free in the drawer. That will make cleaqning the drawer in a few years MUCH easier.