mr.incredible

- Right of NumLock "Spindle Toggle"- Recycle icon is "Soft Reset"- Above "Home" is Macro "Camera Zero" (I have an Endoscopy Camera with a software crosshair mounted on Z. that I have X Y offsets predefined to set precise zero point.) Much better to set zero with a larger bit (6mm) Great for lining up after bit change.- Next to that is Macro "Zero Probe" (Again switch is temp placed on surface and bit is slowly lowered until switch is activated. Z is zeroed with offset.)

I don't think that is possible through UGS without a macro. You can jog to location with you mouse by right clicking a location and selecting goto (not sure of the exact wording) I don't have a prob stair stepping. Plus I mostly just jog to set zero point.

Once you create Macros and save them, they show up in the keymap list in the macros section.

So sorry I am just now seeing your question. I have been out of the garage for awhile. If you use the HIDMacros.eu program I referenced above the instructions tell you how to reference the keys and map them to corresponding key strokes. There are a couple keys that don't want to play nice, like the "00" key. You have to take into account the double keystroke that is programmed into the key originally. I have not used any other macro recording software. The HIDMacro.eu is not particularly a macro recorder but a keystroke mapper. Think of it that way. Also, you have to tinker with USG key mappings to get them all to match.

Good job. This would be great for multiple buttons but most computers only have the one so, you really only need the servo and mounting bracket. Make sure your IT department is okay with this. They might consider it a breach of security. Although it is just a remote button pusher.

Thanks for the suggestion. Done.

Damn! I just cut a hole in my new workbench to mount a removable vice. Kind of a vertical Reese Hitch/Receiver type deal. This is a great idea. I may just have to leave the hole. Now I just have to find an old Radial Arm Saw or something similar. Good work. Nice welds.

It's not a contest. It is just a bunch of people sharing their projects and ideas. Have fun posting. Maybe something you post will help someone.

Great idea. With as few connections as you have you could make it even smaller by doing away with the proto board all together. Just make your connections dead bug style. Obviously a custom board would be the best solution.

Very nice job. I love turning junk into treasure. I hate seeing stuff thrown away unless it has been completely used up. I watch Craigslist for free stuff and rebuild as a hobby and a little extra cash. You find a lot of electric toys with nothing wrong except the batteries are dead, or they are missing the charger. That and some sun damage.

I was wondering what a tetra pak was but now I see. When I first saw this I was thinking Tyvek house wrap. Now that I see your project, (brilliant by the way) something similar could be made with Tyvek house wrap. There is usually quite a bit left over from construction jobs. Fold it into strips and use your weaving tech. Lots of possibilities.

Really cool. Obviously you will need to post a video. Also you can get cardboard concrete forms for your "drum" Then you could lengthen and add more notes. If you filled the drum with foam before you start you could then place your clappers at a closer interval to have more song length.

Looks comfy. How do you get it to support the back rest?When I first saw the main picture, an idea hit me. Even simpler but maybe a little more costly. Use a sleeping bag as the form. A garage sale sleeping bag, older sturdier, with a metal zipper, (so it doesn't break) fill it up as much as you like and sew the zipper closed. Wouldn't want those EPS beads everywhere. Would be a great alternative to an air bed for company or kids sleepovers. Even using it for camping would be better than an air bed. I wouldn't want to hike with it but then again I'm a little old for hike camping.

Beautiful work. Looks like the cement may have given you a better work surface as well. I have been thinking of making a propane forge but I like your design better. Looks like it will get a much quicker and hotter temp transfer as well. Now to start folding that steel to make a nice blade.

Why wait. Tubes are cheap. $2-3

Stain it with coffee? Then oil it.

Really nice job. You kind of have a payoff shot in the first set of pictures. Obviously not painted but I can see the results. Even white would look great.I have been wanting to do this in my garage since it has no ceiling except exposed floor joist with really bad insulation showing. I don't think I will worry about the molding strips.

Awesome. The extra torque due to the extension one the one stepper could be mitigated with a couple bearings hard mounted to your frame. Once the slop is supported by bearings the length of shaft is no longer an issue.

Great Stuff foam makes different types for different jobs. I haven't looked but maybe there is one that will resist crushing better. They do make firewall rated maybe that.

Nice job. That conduit pipe takes a paint pretty well too. When I first saw it I thought you were using the butyl rubber used in shower pans. That would work well too. It would remain flexible so all you would have to do is drill, or punch, the holes and cut the teeth. It is pretty cheap at the "Lowes Depot"

Nice job. I thought about doing this on my old POS lawn mower. It should work well for your use. I think the main thing to worry about would be weight. The Great Stuff foam will crush and not recover. To do in on anything that bears weight you would need some sort of polyurethane foam. Also I would lay the wheel on its side so that you get an even distribution rotationally. If you do it while it is standing up you would need to drill a hole on the top to allow all the air to escape and fill it to the top.

That is a beautiful piece of machinery. So simple yet elegant and functional. Nice machine work as well.

Cool, What is "laser rubber"? Stuff I tried didn't work.

Very nice. I think using the steel version of the straps would be more industrial. Also, fasten one side of the cross members fixed (pop rivets), and use sliding clamps on the opposite side for movable height adjustment.

Nice work. Your roommate is lucky to have you as a friend. Is that really the circuit? Two batteries with some nichrome wire between them? And, it's always on? Might have looked slightly prettier if the switch was beneath the origional plastic button. (Is that possible?) Or maybe a simple on/off switch so it can pre-heat?

Awesome!May I suggest two words? "Ski boots" Easy to strap into and out of. Protection for your ankles. You can also mount your levers to the boots. It would suck to drop the levers while you were up. :-)

Thanks, I haven't decided yet. I am contemplating selling this as a DIY build kit. I don't have a lot of time and I don't know if I could make any money off of it. There are several similar kits out there. Banggood.com sells one that is 30cm x 40cm but it is only X and Y, and uses 3 NEMA 17s for that. http://www.banggood.com/5500mW-A3-30x40cm-Desktop-DIY-Violet-Laser-Engraver-Picture-CNC-Printer-Assembling-Kits-p-1009577.html?rmmds=search. I may just do an ible and post everything open source, including the Sketchup files. I did build mine directly off of the Sketchup CAD. Gantry Side plates and back plate was an exact fit, so all I had to do was bolt everything together. The hardest part was the Z axis. Keeping it small was quite a task. Some of the Z components were tricky to build. ...

Thanks, I haven't decided yet. I am contemplating selling this as a DIY build kit. I don't have a lot of time and I don't know if I could make any money off of it. There are several similar kits out there. Banggood.com sells one that is 30cm x 40cm but it is only X and Y, and uses 3 NEMA 17s for that. http://www.banggood.com/5500mW-A3-30x40cm-Desktop-DIY-Violet-Laser-Engraver-Picture-CNC-Printer-Assembling-Kits-p-1009577.html?rmmds=search. I may just do an ible and post everything open source, including the Sketchup files. I did build mine directly off of the Sketchup CAD. Gantry Side plates and back plate was an exact fit, so all I had to do was bolt everything together. The hardest part was the Z axis. Keeping it small was quite a task. Some of the Z components were tricky to build. But other than the Z axis and the XY gantry side plates and the back side plate, everything was off-the-shelf and bolted toghther nicely. My design uses two NEMA 17 steppers for X and Y, and one NEMA 11 for the Z axis. My design gives about 40cm travel in both X and Y. Z travel is about 10cm. There is no bottom so you can etch or burn or cut on odd shaped things. (book, table...)

Nice design and ible. If your gantry can handle a little bit of pressure, you could affix a Roland style vinyl cutter to cut vinyl or paper. They are pretty cheap on banggood.com. I made my own CNC with a 3.5W blue diode laser. It does an excellent job on most things but some colored materials throw it off. I have added a Z axis, for a vinyl cutter but I don't have it wired up yet. I'm still trying to figure out how to get the focus back after moving the Z axis. To now I haven't worried with end stop or home switches but I may have to do something like that to give myself a reference point.

Fun. Mythbusters took a whole bunch of straws, enough to cover the surface of the fan and stacked them. That will direct the air flow straight more even with less buffetting. (If you wanted to)

Great idea, Are you coloring pre or post melt? I'm thinking if you redesign the whole head you could inject the pen after the feeder mech but before the melting. That would solve the feed problem. (forgive the crude image) It would allow you to put more tension on the pen(s) and the feeder will have more power pushing instead of pulling through the pen(s). I don't have any idea what the ink will do to the melterizer though, how long it would take to cycle through the color applied.

Great build. I've been into Multicopters for years. I've built a couple with PVC. That junction box adds a lot of unwanted weight unless you are making a large copter.

I have seen this used before to waterproof cardboard. http://www.westmarine.com/buy/boatlife--git-rot-penetrating-epoxy--P004_120_001_009?recordNum=1. I realize it is expensive. You could use it or something similar. You could even thin it down to soak the cardboard. Then you basically have lightweight hollow core sections.