mscharch

Fair comment, no flame suit reqired. Honestly I never intended to make an instructable while I was making this bowl, so I didn't get all of the pictures and video needed. When I saw there was a WW contest here I did the best with what I had. There was an assumption that anyone seeing this who would ever try to recreate it would already be experienced with segmented turning, and would know the process.Otherwise, this is just someting really cool to look at and appreciate.

Sorry, no photos, but all I used was a miter gauge and table saw. Making this bowl taught me value of precision versus dumb luck. I had more of latter then the former. I've made a new miter sled for my table saw that is a lot more precise (image attached).

I haven't considered it, since I make things for the challenge of making new and different "art." Having 3 kids and a full time job doesn't give a lot of time either. To give an idea of time, this took 2 full days over the weekend and a lot of time waiting for glue to dry.

For the sake of your fingers reverse the polarity on the motor and turn the blade around so the cutting force pushes it towards the fence.

The rows are 2" apart and the dowels are 1.75 apart. The dowel hole are drilled into a piece of square stock that's had one edge cut off @ 45 degrees to make the angle.

Looks great! You're a braver man than I using edge grain dove tails. I hope the seasons are kind to you.

Wow! So many comments. I'll try to clarify some of the questions.My day job I'm an engineer so the 1st step for me is gathering requirements. My wife (customer) wanted something heavy that would absorb the vibrations her machines make. She would be sitting at these tables while in use so she also wanted the front to be open so she wouldn't be banging her knees into a corner leg. Last was the room configuration, since these 2 tables would be in an L shape it necessitated the cutout where the customer wanted it (and who am I to disagree.)As far as strength of the legs go, I'm 6'6" 250lbs and when I sit in the middle on the edge and bounce up and down there is no movement. Another reason not to have concern is during clamping the front edge was taller than the back so I maxed the...

Wow! So many comments. I'll try to clarify some of the questions.My day job I'm an engineer so the 1st step for me is gathering requirements. My wife (customer) wanted something heavy that would absorb the vibrations her machines make. She would be sitting at these tables while in use so she also wanted the front to be open so she wouldn't be banging her knees into a corner leg. Last was the room configuration, since these 2 tables would be in an L shape it necessitated the cutout where the customer wanted it (and who am I to disagree.)As far as strength of the legs go, I'm 6'6" 250lbs and when I sit in the middle on the edge and bounce up and down there is no movement. Another reason not to have concern is during clamping the front edge was taller than the back so I maxed the clamping pressure on the cantilevered side to try to bring it square. I cranked the clamps as hard as I could and still couldn't get them perfectly parallel and the clamps are rated @ 1500lbs clamping force.These are work tables, not anvils, if they were meant to be hammered on all day they are meant to be flat, smooth, heavy, not a knee knocker and cheap. All materials for both tables were less than $150.I think someone else answered the 2X4 vs 2X6 question, but I'll add my 2cents. Economy of material was the main reason. I've made 2X4 laminated tables before and know that the straightening and flattening process will take about 1/2" off of the original thickness. Requirement #1 being heavy to absorb vibration I wanted something more than 1.5" but 3 was too much imo. The happy medium turned out ripping 2X6s in half. The final thickness was just under 2.25" (60mm) and weighed about 100lbs.Thanks for all the comments, I hope some were inspired and/or educated. That's what this community is all about.

I think I'll wait until there are a few scratches on it before I start using them to split wood. ;p

It may look cantilevered but the bearing point on the ground is only an inch from the edge of the top surface. Most tables I've seen have a bigger overhang then this to help prevent the knee banging scenario my wife would like to avoid.If it fails anywhere it would be a tensile break in the back of the K intersection, or a sheer glue joint failure where the straight leg is mortised into the top plate.