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Hallway Key HangerView Instructable »
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Thanks. I like your version of it. very clean looking :)
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Nice gate. One minor piece of constructive criticism though, just minor: The woodgrain on the scrap piece you used for the latch is going vertical, which won't stand up to a lot of shear force and has a risk of breaking. If you mount it with the grain going horizontal the grain will absorb those forces differently. There won't be shear forces acting on the scrap piece, but bending forces. It will be a lot stronger with a lot less chance of breaking when something heavy leans against it.
Never heard of Lincoln blocks before, but I like your version! I might make this, or come up with my own version for my kid this summer. Thanks for the nice instructable!
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Thank you :)
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Thanks for the feedback, I never thought about that! I may update the instructable to include it when I'm a bit less swamped, but I'll answer some of the questions now:I don't remember the exact kind of screw I used, whether they were stainless or "regular" but I make sure they protrude at least a cm into the other piece. I used screws for the simple reason that I like using them and I don't have a brad-nail gun. Didn't want to hammer nails in manually either. I don't think nails grip as tight or as well as screws do. When wood starts to work, sometimes nails pop up a little bit. I've never seen screws do that. But I'm definitely no expert here, so if there is a good reason to use nails or brads I'm up for hearing it.I did mention where I put screws in the plans, Basically in al…
Thanks for the feedback, I never thought about that! I may update the instructable to include it when I'm a bit less swamped, but I'll answer some of the questions now:I don't remember the exact kind of screw I used, whether they were stainless or "regular" but I make sure they protrude at least a cm into the other piece. I used screws for the simple reason that I like using them and I don't have a brad-nail gun. Didn't want to hammer nails in manually either. I don't think nails grip as tight or as well as screws do. When wood starts to work, sometimes nails pop up a little bit. I've never seen screws do that. But I'm definitely no expert here, so if there is a good reason to use nails or brads I'm up for hearing it.I did mention where I put screws in the plans, Basically in all the corners or where girders meet. And where there is enough "meat" for the screw to grab. I pre-drilled all the holes so the screws wouldn't split the wood. I tend to put all the screws in through the holes just enough that they "slot" into the pilot holes, but not enough to grab yet. That way I can take the workpieces apart and apply glue first. I like to dry fit stuff before I glue up.I don't know what you mean with the girders must be true, but the inside girders are very, VERY sturdy.I don't have a belt sander. I measured meticulously before making any cuts with a tape measure and several 90 degree rulers. You could choose not to do that because I made safe margins in the plans, so you could just saw and use a sander or something to clean up, but I didn't have to do that and my girders came out very close to the right size. I did do a little cleanup with a hand-held sander but it wasn't really necessary.Hope this answers your questions. Could you tell me why/when you would choose brad nails over screws?
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