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  • mwitherspoon commented on MikeTheMaker's instructable Slinky Machine
    Slinky Machine

    Great! Maybe you can finally answer that question that has haunted us all! What is the lifespan of a Slinky?

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  • mwitherspoon commented on Honus's instructable Handmade Jeweler's Saw
    Handmade Jeweler's Saw

    Search amazon for abrasive wirehttps://www.amazon.com/s?k=abrasive+wire+saw&crid=38MTF2VUOYRD5&sprefix=abrasive+wire%2Caps%2C232&ref=nb_sb_ss_i_5_13

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  • mwitherspoon commented on RobBest's instructable Cat Repellent
    Cat Repellent

    Front yard is not fenced in!

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  • mwitherspoon commented on RobBest's instructable Cat Repellent
    Cat Repellent

    Just what I've been looking for! The neighborhood hoodlums, by that I mean stray and feral cats love to lounge in my front yard under a massive shade tree and taunt my dog, who has a full floor to ceiling window view of his tormentors. No amount of his barking seems to encourage their departure.None of the commercial devices I've tried seem to do anything. Plus, being a collector of perfectly good parts salvaged from just about EVERYTHING over the decades. I greatly prefer to make the perfect device of my own.So I put together a small air compressor and a 4 gallon tank with a line to the front yard. A small solenoid valve a remote switch and a few short lengths of rubber tubing. When energized the hissing and flailing tubes has a tremendous effect on the lounging felines. The only…

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    Just what I've been looking for! The neighborhood hoodlums, by that I mean stray and feral cats love to lounge in my front yard under a massive shade tree and taunt my dog, who has a full floor to ceiling window view of his tormentors. No amount of his barking seems to encourage their departure.None of the commercial devices I've tried seem to do anything. Plus, being a collector of perfectly good parts salvaged from just about EVERYTHING over the decades. I greatly prefer to make the perfect device of my own.So I put together a small air compressor and a 4 gallon tank with a line to the front yard. A small solenoid valve a remote switch and a few short lengths of rubber tubing. When energized the hissing and flailing tubes has a tremendous effect on the lounging felines. The only problem is - I have to be present to push the switch. I tried teaching the dog to push it, but in the excitement of the moment, he always forgets.

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  • Ray Gun With Sound Effects V2

    Cool build! I'd replace that threaded rod with the threaded tube from a salvaged table lamp to get power into the muzzle for more lighting effects.

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  • Simple Sheet Metal Brake: No Welding

    Just trying to promote safety! Power tools can make a bloody mess of your body parts far faster than you can react!

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  • Flip Top Planer Stand

    Great project utilizing space for a small shop! Hint - Get yourself a small whisk broom. Wiping material with bare hands is a guaranteed way to get splinters. I have an favorite old drafting brush that is perfect, slips easily into your back pocket.

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  • Arduino Star-Finder for Telescopes

    Awesome project! I've been getting into (amateur) astro-photography and have been noodling with ideas for a polar tracker. So this project really caught my eye!The deal with encoders is, they give incremental changes in position, not absolute position from a known position. So this brings the necessity of a homing method, each time the unit is powered up. Thus adding complication to the mechanics of the design and to the the operation of the device. At each power up move each axis of the the scope mount to a "zero" position, then make calculation for desired position for the object selected.So I think the potentiometer is a good choice in this application. But pots have a temperature dependence. Luckily these are usually given in the performance data sheet. So as an upgra…

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    Awesome project! I've been getting into (amateur) astro-photography and have been noodling with ideas for a polar tracker. So this project really caught my eye!The deal with encoders is, they give incremental changes in position, not absolute position from a known position. So this brings the necessity of a homing method, each time the unit is powered up. Thus adding complication to the mechanics of the design and to the the operation of the device. At each power up move each axis of the the scope mount to a "zero" position, then make calculation for desired position for the object selected.So I think the potentiometer is a good choice in this application. But pots have a temperature dependence. Luckily these are usually given in the performance data sheet. So as an upgrade to this device one could also add a temp sensor and have the software compensate for the temperature effect on the pot.

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  • Wow so many safety concerns. A guy I know has only an index finger and thumb on his right hand. 3 fingers amputated from an infection gone bad, from guess what? Wiping away dirty, oily drill shavings! I'll bet you were not wearing eye protection either! And that knee vise - classic.. But hey your young right?! Plenty of time to heal. Except you cannot grow back fingers or eyes.Your next project should be a proper work bench. It'll make things so much easier.Giving all that criticism - its just because I hate to see you or anyone's effort and enthusiasm cut short by an unfortunate event. I'm a retired manufacturing engineer, and a died-in-the-wool DIYer - trust me they happen. And it's usually from something you know better than to do.

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  • Even though this is sketching - don't be afraid to use a straight edge or templates when needed. If you desire that "hand sketched" look you can make light lines then trace over freehand. Plus this helps build the hand-eye coordination. If you do it a lot you'll soon find the templates are less and less necessary.I do a lot of plan view sketches. Another "freehand" trick for straight lines is to hold the pencil in a position that the point is at the place you want a line then position a finger on the edge of the drawing pad using it as a guide then pull the hand along the edge - nice straight lines and parallel the the paper edge.I prefer to do sketches on vellum. Its a superior surface for drawing. And being translucent you can slip in graph paper behind to help …

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    Even though this is sketching - don't be afraid to use a straight edge or templates when needed. If you desire that "hand sketched" look you can make light lines then trace over freehand. Plus this helps build the hand-eye coordination. If you do it a lot you'll soon find the templates are less and less necessary.I do a lot of plan view sketches. Another "freehand" trick for straight lines is to hold the pencil in a position that the point is at the place you want a line then position a finger on the edge of the drawing pad using it as a guide then pull the hand along the edge - nice straight lines and parallel the the paper edge.I prefer to do sketches on vellum. Its a superior surface for drawing. And being translucent you can slip in graph paper behind to help as a guide. You can print many different graph papers from online resources.

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  • Here is another good resource for linear rail systems https://openbuildspartstore.com/linear-rail/

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  • Great looking machine!! That is one darn rigid looking gantry! Great work indeed.I've designed several industrial machines of similar nature. We had an X-Axis of 9 feet and a Y-Axis of 6 feet - Vertical!. We used rack and pinion as well. As I said these were industrial use so they ran +100k cycles a month. The rack and pinion will wear in to the sweet spot quick at these rates, and then, wear out as fast, resulting in slop - backlash. We actually had to vacuum out the trap of ground metal beneath the rack weekly. This required constant adjustment. We eventually transitioned to a timing belt drive.Our biggest reliability problem though was cabling failures. These were intermittent and buggy at first but eventually total failure. We used purchased track carriers like your made and…

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    Great looking machine!! That is one darn rigid looking gantry! Great work indeed.I've designed several industrial machines of similar nature. We had an X-Axis of 9 feet and a Y-Axis of 6 feet - Vertical!. We used rack and pinion as well. As I said these were industrial use so they ran +100k cycles a month. The rack and pinion will wear in to the sweet spot quick at these rates, and then, wear out as fast, resulting in slop - backlash. We actually had to vacuum out the trap of ground metal beneath the rack weekly. This required constant adjustment. We eventually transitioned to a timing belt drive.Our biggest reliability problem though was cabling failures. These were intermittent and buggy at first but eventually total failure. We used purchased track carriers like your made and off the shelf cables. Again its the cycle rates that are the big culprit here. What was happening was migration of the individual wires and even the conductors within the wires, they would kink up inside the jacket. The solution (or at least prolonged the life 10x or so was larger bend radius in the track and loose bundles, no twists all cables laying flat and parallel. This of course took much more space.Not knocking down your work, its awesome! Just sharing some experience that may come in handy down the road.

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  • Apple sauce cups. Ya know the ones you put in your kids lunch. I have a stack of about 20 in my shop. Usefull for all kinds of things. Small parts, mixing epoxy, a bit of touch up paint. Cheap so you can toss them after messy jobs.

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  • Good work. For 3d Printing and laser this would work great. Though I believe you'll find this mechanisms performance for machining and drilling poor. Depending on your expectations of course. The lateral loads, kickback, torsion things like that will flex the gantry tubes.

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  • NO but you can silence it!

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  • So I get the whole "made it myself" idea, heck I do it myself all the time.But often I'm left thinking "Wow! that's a damn expensive solution to the problem". This being one of those. Considering I (and most every old timer I know) literally have many jars, and cans even several small boxes of miscellaneous hardware stacked in rows tucked away in the shop.Other than that - Yes its a well done job! And great instructable!(Honestly I mean no insult. I too have many overpriced solutions in my home as well! And many more simmering in my brain.)

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  • Preach it brother! I'm convinced my garage has an inter dimensional portal in it. I can set a tool down, reach for it a minute later and its GONE!I have discovered there is only two ways to get tools back from the other side.One is to leave the shop for several hours up to several days sometimes.The second is to go buy a new tool.Either way, upon your return the missing tool will be right back where you left it.

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  • mwitherspoon commented on Pricklysauce's instructable Vehicle Key Safe

    Or a DIY version of thishttps://www.walmart.com/ip/HitchSafe-HS700-Key-Vau...orhttps://www.centralrestaurant.com/Mesa-Safe-MHK1-0...

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  • mwitherspoon commented on rmomberg's instructable Lab ATX Powersupply

    Great instructable! I too have several of the power supplies boxed up waiting this much attention. Sadly I usually just grab one and hotwire it up for the project. As for the writing - dude your way above most American students entering college these days.

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  • Had your nozzle become obstructed this could have quickly gone from rocket test to pipe bomb. And this is experience talking.When I was a youngster, I did similar "experiment" with an empty CO2 cartridge gunpowder and a fuse pulled from a fire cracker.Lit the fuse. Fizzle, Then a quick flame about 6'', A loud shriek. It moved about 2 inches, then BOOM!! Since that day I have a constant ringing in my ears. Its nerve damage. I'm 54 now - obviously that's not going away.I found the CO2 cartridge several days later over 70 yards away.As some said "it's a learning experience". Yeah - but only if you survive!

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  • As a life long desert rat here's a bit more advice. One you realize your sunburned flush with cool water IMMEDIATELY. Do not waste time with preparations as above, your goal is to remove the heat ASAP to prevent further burning. As previously stated nothing will "get rid" of a sunburn. Of course there is the obvious advice "prevention" is best thing.For post treatment Aloe is a decent salve to relieve the after effects, and anecdotally seems to speed the healing. Many of us Zonies have an Aloe plant or two growing arround our property

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  • Funny how the ladies are exempt from certain household chores. I swear I'm going to start painting my fingernails so that I can claim "I can't do that - it'll ruin my nails"

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  • mwitherspoon commented on makjosher's instructable The Anywhere Outlet

    I've made several like this for my garage. Two with 4 120 outlets and one with 2 120 outlets and a switch to power it on and off. Making these are not necessarily cheaper than buying an average outlet strip. But their toughness for garage use is far superior! Plus if you did break an outlet (which I have) its cheaper to fix than replacing an entire outlet strip. You can also get longer 3-gang boxes for up to 6 outlets. Be sure to always wire the ground properly and the neutral and hot wires to the correct sides of the receptacle, this will help prevent shock hazards and possible damage to equipment.

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  • Great looking tools and great work you put into them. Definitely something to be proud of. While I do enjoy the whole DIY and Maker movement, materials and time can add up quickly - I myself have been guilty of this many times over. Sometimes its hard to beat a commercial product. I realize you are in Australia, I'm just curious what a product like this would cost to get shipped to you there. https://www.amazon.com/52-2-Inch-Clamp-Fixture-Black/dp/B0000224CA/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1479735117&sr=1-5&keywords=pipe+clamp

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  • Thats great work there! I so want to build a CNC router, problem is I really don't have that much need for one - or space to put it!.A note about the problem you mentioned - running onto the limit switch and having trouble manually moving the machine off of it. The limit should only inhibit drive to the one axis and only in the direction the limit is protecting against - so you should be able to jog that axis back off the limit using the CNC software. With that said. Some drive boards may not have this ability due to trying to keep the cost/complexity down. Also some will have the limit switch activation also kick the E-Stop in so ALL drive power it cut.

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  • An easy way is one of these https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-125-2-Pole-2-Wire-A...

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  • Very cool. To keep out insects and also monitor water level.Two corks,one piece drinking straw and a bit of a bamboo skewer.One normal tapered cork to plou the hole, drill a hole through sized for drinking straw. slide straw through the cork cut to flush on both sides.Second cork sized to pass through the hole in the Ollahs.Bamboo skewer, slide through the straw in large cork, stick into the smaller cork. Insert this assembly into the empty Ollahs, allow small cork and bamboo rod to rest on the bottom of Ollahs. Cut bamboo rod to desired length.You now have a water level gauge you can check at a glance, and a plug to keep out the nasties.

    Very cool idea. You could add a plug to keep out the bugs and serve as a water level gauge.One tapered cork fit to plug the hole in the Ollahs.One smaller cork to pass through the hole in the Ollahs.One drinking straw.One bamboo skewer.Drill a hole in the larger cork sized to the drinking straw. Slide the straw through, trim flush. Add a spot of glue if its loose. This acts as a bearing surface for the bamboo rod.Slide the bamboo rod through the straw and poke it well into the smaller cork.Insert this assembly into the hole in the empty Ollahs. Allow the inside cork to rest on the bottom of the Ollahs. Mark or trim the bamboo rod as desired to indicate the empty state. You could add even more marks to indicate various levels if your so inclined.Fill the Ollahs with water. Insert this s…

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    Very cool idea. You could add a plug to keep out the bugs and serve as a water level gauge.One tapered cork fit to plug the hole in the Ollahs.One smaller cork to pass through the hole in the Ollahs.One drinking straw.One bamboo skewer.Drill a hole in the larger cork sized to the drinking straw. Slide the straw through, trim flush. Add a spot of glue if its loose. This acts as a bearing surface for the bamboo rod.Slide the bamboo rod through the straw and poke it well into the smaller cork.Insert this assembly into the hole in the empty Ollahs. Allow the inside cork to rest on the bottom of the Ollahs. Mark or trim the bamboo rod as desired to indicate the empty state. You could add even more marks to indicate various levels if your so inclined.Fill the Ollahs with water. Insert this stopper/level gauge. The inner cork should float and shove the bamboo rod up indicating the level of the water.

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