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Looks like aluminum. Does it feel somewhat lightweight for its size? Like if you find a peice of steel or iron of a similar size, it should feel much heavier. Also, because it's been obviosly melted then poured on the ground, it's likely to be aluminum since it's much easier to melt than most metals, so it more likely to have been melted by some random dude (and it's incredibly common). Tin and lead are also much easier to melt, but they are also much heavier than even iron or steel. So, knowing the weight (but really, it's density) should give you the most information.

Thank you for liking my instructable!in the arduino sketch, all you really need to do is change the amounts of time in the delay() functions. If you notice, there are two delay functions per a monster's blink (and every blink is numbered with a comment, like //1 or //5.) The first delay is how long the eyes are closed for, and the second one is how much time passes until the next monster's blink occurs below it. (And remember they are in milliseconds, which are thousandths of a second.)So, if you want to space-out the blinks more (lower their frequency) then you only need to increase that second delay time in each numbered monster blink. For the "sleeper" that will be the fourth delay time instead.Doing this to all the monster's blinks, will lengthen the entire loop function (th…

Thank you for liking my instructable!in the arduino sketch, all you really need to do is change the amounts of time in the delay() functions. If you notice, there are two delay functions per a monster's blink (and every blink is numbered with a comment, like //1 or //5.) The first delay is how long the eyes are closed for, and the second one is how much time passes until the next monster's blink occurs below it. (And remember they are in milliseconds, which are thousandths of a second.)So, if you want to space-out the blinks more (lower their frequency) then you only need to increase that second delay time in each numbered monster blink. For the "sleeper" that will be the fourth delay time instead.Doing this to all the monster's blinks, will lengthen the entire loop function (the whole cycle of the program) as well, and therefore it will naturally make the "sleeper" wake-up with lower frequency as well. Unfortunately, that's the only way I know that you'd be able to make him wake up less often, since the way I wrote this sketch is very "linear" and each blink's timing is dependent on the timing of all the other blinks... That is one downside for me, not knowing enough coding to make them all separate functions that run independently.If you look at the comments below, on person had a great idea to run each pair of eyes using a separate microcontroller called an ATtiny85, which would allow individual and independent adjustment of timing for each one. But it's probably too late for doing that, plus it's certainly more advanced of a technique. (Plus all those batteries you'd need to use!)Anyways, I hope this was enough explanation to get the idea of how to change what you wanted to change! If you have any other questions feel free to ask!Enjoy your Halloween!!!

It's just white PLA, and opaque. Come to think of it, a natural-white PLA might look good too, because the natural white has a very very slight translucence to it. But if a clear filament is used, it may not completely diffuse (spread-out evenly) the light.

Hi Peter, that's a good idea! Very simple, and still effective! I may attempt to incorporate both yours and Cotekino's ideas into my setup this year. I love any ideas that remove the work of stringing magnet-wire across my front yard! :)

Absolutely BEAUTIFUL!!! I'm so glad that my idea inspired yours, and thank you so much for posting it! :) You have proven that it's not necessary to use my complicated foamboard folding method, hopefully that will encourage more people to give it a shot!I actually have some ATtiny's but I hadn't thought of that! Great Idea!You might not need to paint the inside white, if you could fold up a piece of white paper so that it covers the back and sides, but honestly, the cardboard is already kind of white inside. Painting it black on the outside is a great idea too, but for mine this year, I bought some black colored duct tape on Amazon to wrap them in. (After two Halloweens of use, one of them started to give-way to the moisture, and fell apart as I was putting them away for the next year) so…

Absolutely BEAUTIFUL!!! I'm so glad that my idea inspired yours, and thank you so much for posting it! :) You have proven that it's not necessary to use my complicated foamboard folding method, hopefully that will encourage more people to give it a shot!I actually have some ATtiny's but I hadn't thought of that! Great Idea!You might not need to paint the inside white, if you could fold up a piece of white paper so that it covers the back and sides, but honestly, the cardboard is already kind of white inside. Painting it black on the outside is a great idea too, but for mine this year, I bought some black colored duct tape on Amazon to wrap them in. (After two Halloweens of use, one of them started to give-way to the moisture, and fell apart as I was putting them away for the next year) so the duct tape hopefully will add the most waterproofing and extend the lifetime of the props. Again thanks for posting!

Wow! great job!

Thank you! Maybe that's why we didn't get any trick or treaters last year... LOL!

That's exactly what I was thinking when I saw him connect to the faucet. However, I am surprised nobody has mentioned simply making a connection to the ground terminal of any wall-socket in their house... (Your house should already be grounded. There's no need for someone to install a ground rod, when there should already be one.) When I first constructed a simple foxhole -radio like this one, I used a wall-socket ground and it worked well.To do this safely, you can take any appliance's plug, wrap the magnet wire a few times around the base of the ground-prong (carefully making sure the magnet wire does not touch the hot-prong), and insert the plug into the socket. You could also connect the magnet wire to almost any metal enclosure/frame of any electrical appliance/device, since all meta…

That's exactly what I was thinking when I saw him connect to the faucet. However, I am surprised nobody has mentioned simply making a connection to the ground terminal of any wall-socket in their house... (Your house should already be grounded. There's no need for someone to install a ground rod, when there should already be one.) When I first constructed a simple foxhole -radio like this one, I used a wall-socket ground and it worked well.To do this safely, you can take any appliance's plug, wrap the magnet wire a few times around the base of the ground-prong (carefully making sure the magnet wire does not touch the hot-prong), and insert the plug into the socket. You could also connect the magnet wire to almost any metal enclosure/frame of any electrical appliance/device, since all metal enclosures must be grounded by design. So things like washing machine, computer case, etc. all would probably work fine.If all else fails, a sufficient counterpoise can easily be constructed. Here is some reading for anyone interested:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Counterpoise_(ground...

Oh my god thank you so much, ever since I saw the acoustic levitation video on Youtube I always thought it was possibly a hoax.

Search on amazon for "imax b6ac" that is the charger i have, but there is a cheaper clone under the brand "hobbymate imax b6" that I'm sure works just as great, because it looks like it has just as good ratings. There are probably zillions of clones of that charger out there, and they probably all work fine and have the same functionality.

you would need longer linear-bearing rods and a longer lead-screw on the stepper motors, on both x and y axis. use drawer-slides for bearings, and threaded rod for lead-screw.but then you need bigger motors too...

You could also make it the way he shows and then just leave it out in the sun for a day or two. That should be enough to lower the concentration of water.

GO TO YOUTUBE. TYPE IN GEEK GROUP TESLA COILS. WATCH ALL VIDEOS. ALL OF THEM. ALL OF THE GEEK GROUP TESLA COIL VIDEOS. WATCH THEM.

Yes, I will back you up on that. Everyone listen to denbird... Dissolving NaOH in water is an exothermic process, meaning it releases heat. So always carefully add the lye to water, not the other way around.

Thank you for the schematic. So when you tune your primary with only one cap, are you running the coil with only one capacitor (so current would not flow through the other mosfet)?

Are you saying to change that capacitor to a value which would make the primary a resonant circuit at the same frequency as the secondary? Do you have pics of your driver setup?

A drsst has a resonant primary LC circuit (self-oscillating) tuned to the same resonant frequency as the secondary circuit. All drsstcs and sstcs have a feedback loop that triggers the actuall switching. The regular sstc differs by not having a resonant tuned LC circuit as the primary. It is simply driven at the same frequency as the secondary, and you do not need to tune an LC circuit.

If I wanted to add a second laser and photo resistor for a separate relay to be triggered, (like someone walks past point A and light-A turns on, then they walk past point B and light-B turns on) where within the void-loop does the other if-statement (and timing) need to be? (so that it's waiting for either to be triggered at anytime, not so it's waiting for the first one, then the second one after)

Although anhydrous magnesium sulfate would be a good drying agent as well... but its just too easy to buy some anhydrous calcium chloride.

Im so sorry, you are totally correct!

There is no air in this style of torch, the fuel and oxidizer are being created at the exact ratio thats required for combustion. For every 2 molecules of H2O being electrolyzed, there are created exactly two molecules of H2 (hydrogen gas) and one molecule of O2 (oxygen gas). A perfect ratio of combustion reactants will burn the hottest and most effecient with a blue flame, unless... your reactants are contaminated with water and sodium.

If you guys don't want orange flames, you need some sort of dessicant/filter to be in series with the gas hose. You need to remove the moisture from the gas, because that's the only way the sodium is being carried into the flame (it's dissolved in the microscopic water droplets that you can't see). A filter of calcium chloride (CaCl2) would be most effective, (but any common drying-agents should work), even activated charcoal may work. Just make sure it's not powdered, and that it's somewhat granulated; and if buying online, try to find products labeled "ANHYDROUS"; that is important if you want your drying agents to work like they should. Like sodium sulfate, which is a good drying agent normally, won't work if your using regular epsom salts, because epsom salt is hydrated sodi…

If you guys don't want orange flames, you need some sort of dessicant/filter to be in series with the gas hose. You need to remove the moisture from the gas, because that's the only way the sodium is being carried into the flame (it's dissolved in the microscopic water droplets that you can't see). A filter of calcium chloride (CaCl2) would be most effective, (but any common drying-agents should work), even activated charcoal may work. Just make sure it's not powdered, and that it's somewhat granulated; and if buying online, try to find products labeled "ANHYDROUS"; that is important if you want your drying agents to work like they should. Like sodium sulfate, which is a good drying agent normally, won't work if your using regular epsom salts, because epsom salt is hydrated sodium sulfate. Also I kinda just realized you can just avoid the orange flame entirely by not putting any sodium containing electrolytes in the solution. Just use potassium ones... like, go find some potassium carbonate, and call it a day.

I think it would work. Theres one thing that I think would be important in order for it to work ; you would need do dehydrate the rust. Just let it dry out in the sun, then pulverize it, then heat it up for a while on a stove (to vaporise the remaining water molecules). In fact i may try this myself, since you just made me realize that electrolysis could be a pretty good source of iron oxide for use in thermite...

I think you have a typo there, its Fe2O3.