I was able to complete this project with 5/16-18 hardware. You can get brass wood inserts that have the same thread at any hardware store. And for the pressure pad I am using a flange nut which I'll secure with a second hex nut pressed against it and some CA glue.
You sure can. Any arduino or arduino clone should work.
The kit didn't really come with a complete parts list and only lists the transformers as: T1, T2. But the markings on the transformer's tops say:105S10176-ECHF30117RCHUNG HINGH.K.5The top side says: "2 4"The left side says: "20 12 84"The bottom side says: "6 8 10"The right side says: "HIPOTTED"That's the best I can do for you on that. Remember that this kit is probably 20 years old, so its unlikely that you'll find the exact part available today.
I thought that might be the case. Impressive work and thanks for the reply.I've decided to go ahead and start on this project. I don't yet have a good answer to the pressure pad but I'm sure I'll figure something out. I'll try to post my version when it's complete. Thanks for the inspiration!
Where did you source the brass bushings from? I'd love to attempt this but all I've found are threaded brass wood inserts from the local hardware store. Also, did you consider using any off-the-shelf hardware for the pressure pad? I wish I had a metal lathe but I do not so I'm trying to improvise.
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I'm really excited that you're building this. I hope you share your finished clock.For the big ring of 60 pixels you need to orient the clock so that one of the pixels is exactly at the top to mark the zero minutes. Which pixel doesn't matter and I'll get to why in a minute.For the small ring of 24 pixels you need to orient the clock so that the top is actually between two pixels. The reason for this is that if you want to mark 12 hours then you end up lighting up two pixels instead of one. By having the offset, and with the diffusion of the plastic, it will appear as though you really have 12 wide pixels.As for which pixel the code designates as the "top", you need to edit the code a bit. I have two values in my code named "inner_top_led" and "outer_top_led...
I'm really excited that you're building this. I hope you share your finished clock.For the big ring of 60 pixels you need to orient the clock so that one of the pixels is exactly at the top to mark the zero minutes. Which pixel doesn't matter and I'll get to why in a minute.For the small ring of 24 pixels you need to orient the clock so that the top is actually between two pixels. The reason for this is that if you want to mark 12 hours then you end up lighting up two pixels instead of one. By having the offset, and with the diffusion of the plastic, it will appear as though you really have 12 wide pixels.As for which pixel the code designates as the "top", you need to edit the code a bit. I have two values in my code named "inner_top_led" and "outer_top_led". In my clocks the "inner_top_led" was 11 pixels from the start of the ring and the "outer_top_led" was 36 pixels from the start of the ring. If you happen to orient the rings differently then you would change these values to be the ones from your orientation. The part of the code for this is here:https://github.com/chrisgilmerproj/neoclock/blob/master/code/neoclock/neoclock.ino#L69-L70I'll add this to the instructable so its a bit more clear when constructing the clock. Thanks for the question!
You're absolutely right. I probably should have used a 1K resistor here. When I built the project I just used what I had at my desk and they are a bit small. I'll try to make a note in my instructable at some point to let people know. Thanks for bringing this up.
Thanks for the support! You're too kind.
Thank you so much!
I really find it useful when projects document as much as possible so I try to do the same. This clock was a labor of love so I really enjoy being able to share everything about it.
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