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nlohr

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  • Homemade 3 in 1 CNC (Router, 3D Printer & Laser Engraver)

    Surely a big and challenge project! With so many fotos and details surely also a lot of work - a long-during patience to success! So great thanks to share your experiences and results with others!@crazypj: How do you think to implement a Dode/Capacitor in a DUAL-steered coil? (as Steppers like the Nema-17 or -23 have 2 coils, each steered with a separate H-bridge on the driver). As I know, sending reverse EMF's to ground with diode/capacitor (or only with one diode) surely is possible with coils steered in ONE direction. Steered in the opposite as stepper-coils are, would then produce a short-circuit... ?As you pointed out also, surely it would be possible with a Two-Z-Diodes-limitation, both concatenated/1 in reverse, in parallel of one coil / both in between the 2 cables of one coil of …

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    Surely a big and challenge project! With so many fotos and details surely also a lot of work - a long-during patience to success! So great thanks to share your experiences and results with others!@crazypj: How do you think to implement a Dode/Capacitor in a DUAL-steered coil? (as Steppers like the Nema-17 or -23 have 2 coils, each steered with a separate H-bridge on the driver). As I know, sending reverse EMF's to ground with diode/capacitor (or only with one diode) surely is possible with coils steered in ONE direction. Steered in the opposite as stepper-coils are, would then produce a short-circuit... ?As you pointed out also, surely it would be possible with a Two-Z-Diodes-limitation, both concatenated/1 in reverse, in parallel of one coil / both in between the 2 cables of one coil of the Stepper-Motor. So for one direction ONE Z-Diode limits the EMK above the Z-Diode-Voltage (=greater than the Motor-Supply) while the other with only 0,7V (Z-Diode reverse-voltage) together can eliminate the spike-voltage above supply - same thing for each current-direction of the coil. Surely also the driver-supply has to have enough capacity (connecting an additional capacitor from Supply to GND?) to absorve the EMF-spikes...

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  • SMALL 3D-printed OLED Wrist-Watch

    @Ultra3D. Hi, if you post your proposed files or sketches here - perhaps I can help. But need more info about: What exactly do you mean or imagine under "flip watch" (f.ex. with a sketch)? What for files dont't work for what target? So please try to explain more detailed - I can't "cure per macumba", you know? ;-)

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  • nlohr commented on Nikus's instructable DIY $150 Electric Longboard

    Did you followed the instructions on the banggood-page "How To Connect Remote & Control Board?" (item 1.-4.). The motor is a "N5065 320KV 1820W Outrunner Brushless Motor", so a three phase one, and with it's 1820Watt it is sure stronger than you can hold manually... I guess it's a connection fault of one of the three current-cables. If only 2 are connected, the motor can't strat nor rotate evenly and makes this grind-noise...

    I've posted you the link above - anyhow, here the copy from: "How To Connect Remote & Control Board?" 1. Connect the control board to power source. 2. Turn the control board power on, wait 2 seconds, then press and hold the switch for about 6 seconds, till the power indication light flickering, then loose the hold of the switch immediately. 3. Turn on the remote, then use a little stick to press the code synchronize switch on down left side of the remote. 4. Turn off the remote, wait 2 second to turn it on again. Wait till the remote's sinal light and the control board's power indicate light both flickering. Then connect sucess.

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  • nlohr commented on awall99's instructable Test Tweezers for SMD-LEDs

    I added a 100 Ohm SMD resistor (0603) in series. Most LEDs work with 1-20 mA and between 1.5V (red) to 3.2V (white). In the worst case, when both ends are occasionally shorted, this small resistance preventes a short-circuit, flowing only 3.0V / 100 Ohm = 0.03 = 30mA through the battery and contacts (battery = CR2032, which has about 3.0V with about 200mAh "power").

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  • Both: 1. as You commented, Li-Ion don't like to get too hot, so better not to solder directly or if, only with spot-welding, and 2. because I use an older "fake battery" in this device: Times ago purchased a chinese "5000mAh"-Battery, but checking their capacity with a LED-Flashlight, instead of 5000 they had approx. 700mAh... (1/2 hour lasting insted of 4hrs), but Voltage holds stable 4.0 to 3.9V after 1/2-year, so I didn't throw them but use it for this project, which is not so heavy demanding current, although the Step-Up-Booster (MT3608) consumes well above 400mA... but OK, there is a switch-off function and we may charge the battery with the nice 5V-USB-feature. Last but not least: Thanks for the nice case-design!

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  • Electronic Component Tester (with a Nice Case)

    Nice project! - I modifyed the case a bit to connect the battery without soldering, with a thin bended sheet of brass (# 0.3 x 10 x 16.5 mm), soldered the leads there.+Added 4 internal nuts to fix the display with M3-countersink-screws to the top, therefore the 4 sunk-holes to place them in the case.+Soldered the push-button 2,5mm higher (same place), so it stays 1mm elevated on top.

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  • Thank you, SimonK! Wish you having also a lot of fun with your DIY's!

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  • nlohr commented on GodsTale's instructable Make Your Own Smart Watch

    => https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=364400.0In Adafruit_SSD1306.h (in => Arduino / libraries / Adafruit_SSD1306-master / Adafruit_SSD1306.h)see line 72:1. uncomment #define SSD1306_128_642. comment #define SSD1306_128_323. comment #define SSD1306_96_16In the example ssd1306_128x64_i2cat line 32:4. add #define SSD1306_LCDHEIGHT 64

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  • Thanks for the comment! :)

    Thank you for your comment. Yes, I'm very happy with this Sander, bec. of the simplicity and mostly haveing right-angled parts to straighten, so this 90°-angle is already guaranteed by construction.

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