offtherails2010

Fantastic ! Thanks for the easy to follow instructable and bonus video !!Simplicity at its best !Keep up the awesome tinkering dude !

absolutely BEAUTIFUL mini low-parts-count MEGA2560 !Well done and thanks for sharing the Eagle files for us lowly peasants to learn from !!VERY Nice work :)

howdy Learner_always ! thanks loads for the feedback, its still an important part of my life learning Arduino systems so this info while still in effect and up to date, needs a re-write on my main blog because nowadays Instructables doesnt show my pictures/photo's in order in-between the text to ALL users unless i have a pro membership, so if you copy it into a word doc for now and insert pic's from each section, it'll all come together, while i re-write this somewhere else lolOnce again man, thanks loads and im real glad this helped you :)

Thanks for sharing !This is perfect for my computer, and liquid cooling system for my PC !the dew point calculations are the most important for my application so that my liquid cooler can chill the liquid/coolant without worrying about condensation forming inside the electronics inside my computer casei wont need the distance sensor i dont think, but will leave it in the code as im so useless with writing Arduino Code that i spend most my days with hand slapped on forehead and crying my eyes out lol.i also dont have the exact light sensor or humidity sensor's, but i have these three:..Humidity & Temp Sensorhttps://www.aliexpress.com/item/Industrial-High-Pr....Light intensity Sensorhttps://www.aliexpress.com/item/TSL2561-Luminosity....DS3231 RTC - much better time keeping accuracyh...

Thanks for sharing !This is perfect for my computer, and liquid cooling system for my PC !the dew point calculations are the most important for my application so that my liquid cooler can chill the liquid/coolant without worrying about condensation forming inside the electronics inside my computer casei wont need the distance sensor i dont think, but will leave it in the code as im so useless with writing Arduino Code that i spend most my days with hand slapped on forehead and crying my eyes out lol.i also dont have the exact light sensor or humidity sensor's, but i have these three:..Humidity & Temp Sensorhttps://www.aliexpress.com/item/Industrial-High-Pr....Light intensity Sensorhttps://www.aliexpress.com/item/TSL2561-Luminosity....DS3231 RTC - much better time keeping accuracyhttps://www.aliexpress.com/item/DS3231-AT24C32-IIC....So i think this will be a major challenge for me, probably gonna take a few months to get the code working properly with the new hardware - wish me luck hehe :).Also anyone with damn good skills in programming with Arduino Code, i would be most grateful for;any tips or tricks needed for changing sensors of the same sensors that were previously used in the 1930's (LDR's,) lol to newer and more upto date sensors loli know this is a very old post, but hoping someone out there still has love for his/her version of these & be able to help me change the libraries and Change/omit the;.DHT211 Library with Si7021 Humidity Library (DIFFICULT lol)RTClib - i think this should also cover the DS3231 RTC Higher Precision RTC Module (Medium Difficulty. lol)Adding a new Library; TSL2561 Luminosity Sensor Library ( Easy - WOOHOO !! LMAO ).Once again, beautiful design, very elegant and simple to follow instructions !

fantastic !!! i LOVE THIS !!!well done, great ingenuity, cant believe how easy youve made it look, omg this is awesome !!!Keep up the inspiring work !!!!!!!! subscribed, following & pestering, lol !

howdy kqb64n4Sorry for pestering you, but i have a quick question;Suppose i was going to use a point & shoot camera specifically for this project and that will be the only use for this camera - so knowing this, if i take the camera apart and find the button/momentary switch that takes a photo - how can i connect this switch directly to the Arduino Pins ??Would i need additional circuitry ? im guessing that it would be 5v (or 3v) on the switch but the camera is powered by two AA Batteries in series, so thats 3v total, roughly...Would i be able to get away with simply wiring up the switch of the camera directly to the Arduino Mega Pins ?If not, what extra Devies/IC's/Components would i need ???i already have some servo's but these are for a different project and i don't want to use a ...

howdy kqb64n4Sorry for pestering you, but i have a quick question;Suppose i was going to use a point & shoot camera specifically for this project and that will be the only use for this camera - so knowing this, if i take the camera apart and find the button/momentary switch that takes a photo - how can i connect this switch directly to the Arduino Pins ??Would i need additional circuitry ? im guessing that it would be 5v (or 3v) on the switch but the camera is powered by two AA Batteries in series, so thats 3v total, roughly...Would i be able to get away with simply wiring up the switch of the camera directly to the Arduino Mega Pins ?If not, what extra Devies/IC's/Components would i need ???i already have some servo's but these are for a different project and i don't want to use a servo on this camera when i can wire up the switch directly- i think i can do it but i don't know if i would need anything else to go along with this hack to make it work.Naturally the code would be needing to be tweaked too.Any help appreciated greatly :)

Wow Awesome !!Thanks for sharing and keeping your design open-source, you ROCK !!.Just curious, how do they make the current hotbeds for 3D Printers that use 12v AND 24v - DUAL voltages but only meant to use ONE at any given time, do you think you would be able to show me a rough diagram of what the PCB traces would look like please please ? if youre curious too hehe :).im asking because im thinking of attempting to etch copper foil thats been directly glued onto Borosilicate glass sheet for a 3D Printer, just as an experiment to see how well it holds up as a heatbed replacement for the aluminum, using high temperature epoxy for attaching the copper foil to the Glass, 213mm x 200mm x 3mm thickness.i just cant work it out how they have the option to use either 12v or 24v, the latter for ...

Wow Awesome !!Thanks for sharing and keeping your design open-source, you ROCK !!.Just curious, how do they make the current hotbeds for 3D Printers that use 12v AND 24v - DUAL voltages but only meant to use ONE at any given time, do you think you would be able to show me a rough diagram of what the PCB traces would look like please please ? if youre curious too hehe :).im asking because im thinking of attempting to etch copper foil thats been directly glued onto Borosilicate glass sheet for a 3D Printer, just as an experiment to see how well it holds up as a heatbed replacement for the aluminum, using high temperature epoxy for attaching the copper foil to the Glass, 213mm x 200mm x 3mm thickness.i just cant work it out how they have the option to use either 12v or 24v, the latter for faster heating of the heatbed..No rush, still acquiring the parts, have the glass and foil, just waiting on the high heat glue to arrive lol.thanks loads in advance for any light shed on this experiment :)

thanks so much for the reply kqb64n4:)thats helps a hell of alot, thanks for the inspiration ! hope restored that i might actually be able to make one of these lolParts collection started lol !

howdy -Zanderthanks loads for the help offer, i might need to yelp for help reading some of the horror stories bout this one but theres so many upgrade pieces that can be printed to make it a much more stable platform and i love soldering, SMD stuff mostly but good with through-hole & high power stuff, so fingers crossed all works but will inspect all electronics out of the box first with heavy scrutiny & soldering iron switched on lol

This is awesome, thanks loads for sharing it, EXACTLY What i needed !!!This is PERFECTLY designed, hats off to ya man, well done !!! Great job and your prints look amazing ! Which 3D printer do you have, sorry i may have missed it in the text loli have an Anet A8 on its way, beggars cant be choosers lol, was almost the cheapest on the market nowadays, there was a smaller one for £10 less but i wanted a bigger build plant :)

FANTASTIC JOB !!!OMG Thank you thank you thank you !!i live in a tiny box room and its FREEZING COLD this time of year - well the only reason i hate UK is because we got 9 MOnths OF WINTER AND ONLY 3 months OF SUMMER... SO....This will help greatly when i do my soldering marathons and still keep the heat in my room while bringing in fresher air, well, i hope i get it right when my 3D Printer arrives and i get used to printing with it lolGathering up them straws now !

howdy shapespeareUm, im at a point where i need to have a cry lol.i dont think i will ever be able to afford such a camera such as any DSLR types, especially the Nikon DSLR :(.all i have is a spare iphone 4S and a current iphone 5S with a very aged Kodak C713 camera (7MP) but none have this special ability to take photo's via IR/RF/Anything except manual operation :(is there any hope for me with this kind of device ? lolthank you loads in advance for any and all help, merry Christmas too :)

EDIT: Also using Enamel-Coated MAGNET-Wire, you could get more intricate wiring done as these are super thin, just make sure they can handle the current :)

Awesome ! thanks loads for that, again well done with your instructable, keep up the excellent work :)

Great instructable !!! Well done, i love the 3D Printed case too - really awesome job done there !!a very good friend of mine has made a Lipo mAh capacity tester HERE, so NOW we all have the ability of actually testing 18650's ""TRUE"" mAh rating, which is essential in making powerbanks like this, in my humble opinion anyway.Reasons why;>> Inexpensive Lipo mAh Capacity Tester>> Especially if one is scavenging 18650's from dead laptop batteries, as the 18650's are used, instead of just looking at their mAh ratings and thinking their all the same, one can now test them and know for sure.As my friend has shown on his instructable, you can write the mAh tested capacity on the batteries you/we scavenge, either as he has, or write with permanent marker then cel...

Great instructable !!! Well done, i love the 3D Printed case too - really awesome job done there !!a very good friend of mine has made a Lipo mAh capacity tester HERE, so NOW we all have the ability of actually testing 18650's ""TRUE"" mAh rating, which is essential in making powerbanks like this, in my humble opinion anyway.Reasons why;>> Inexpensive Lipo mAh Capacity Tester>> Especially if one is scavenging 18650's from dead laptop batteries, as the 18650's are used, instead of just looking at their mAh ratings and thinking their all the same, one can now test them and know for sure.As my friend has shown on his instructable, you can write the mAh tested capacity on the batteries you/we scavenge, either as he has, or write with permanent marker then cellotape over the writing so it cant be rubbed off.Then after testing the scavenged batteries, marry up the similar mAh rated batteries to make sure the powerbank performs at its best capability :).Once again - Great instructable, keep up the awesome work and thanks for sharing the files keeping these projects Open-Source, major thanks :)