oliverb

You now have to play around with the letters and words to fit them in the rows.The last rows are taken up by the seconds and the second to last row with clock info like SYNC and PIR ON OFF.Starting with "es la" and "son las" on the 1st row and work down the rows. I found it best to start with the minutes and quarters in the 1st half then hours in the second half.In English we have many number have tens extentions eg six and sixteen so on the clock SIXTEEN has SIX lit for 6 and SIXTEEN lit for 16 which saves space.There is no easy way to do it just move the words around until they fit. Maybe do it in a 16x16 cell spread sheet so you can cut n paste words around?It may be worth doing a search for Spanish Word Clock as someone may have done the layout already.

The WORDS are set in time.hControlling when words are lit -This happens in the module time.cppYou need to make the rules for telling the time for every combination of mins and hours, evening, morning etc in your language.

Hi. Yes I use LochMaster for my designs. I then export to Photoshop to hand finish the board by drawing in shadows and adding any extra boards.

Hi. I just did a search online on how to forecast with a barometer. I simply coded around that. The Zambretti Forcaster seems quite complex. Maybe a fourth dial on my barometer would be work well. It would fit perfectly on the display. Would be nice to see your implementation.

Not sure where I got my hands from as I have a box of various quartz clock hands. The main hand was off Ebay just do a search for quartz clock hands.The dial surround was off and old English dial/school clock. Just search on Ebay for School Clock or Station clock surround. A 12" dial surround is the smallest you can get away with. You shouldn't have to pay too much as you only want the surround with glass & bezal. A back box is a bonus although you may have to make a new one depending on it's size. You can get the glass & bezal new if required.

Have you set your router SSID, password and Auth token from the Blynk in the code?The code looks like this and must be set with your own details./ You should get Auth Token in the Blynk App.// Go to the Project Settings (nut icon).char auth[] = "Auth Token";// Your WiFi credentials.// Set password to "" for open networks.char ssid[] = "Your router SSID";char pass[] = "Your router password";

Hi I have sent you a link to my library.

Have tried all settings and changed RTCLIB to 1.4.1 and tried it on Arduino IDE 1.8.12 and 1.6.13 still same errors.I have downloaded your Adafruit libraries Zero and ASFCore as well.Just can't seem to get it to run. :("ISR.cpp:555:1: error: expected '}' at end of input } ^avdweb_SAMDtimer.cpp:85:1: error: expected '}' at end of input } ^exit status 1expected '}' at end of input"

Thanks for that. I am just waiting for my Arduino's to arrive from China then I will give it a go.

Thanks for that. I will try those settings and let you know how I get on.

Hi thanks for the reply. I have installed all the libraries from your links. I am getting a similar fail but now against avdweb_SAMDtimer.cpp"avdweb_SAMDtimer.cpp:85:1: error: expected '}' at end of input } ^exit status 1expected '}' at end of input"I have Arduino SAMD 32bit Arm Cortex 0+ Boards / Arduino M0 selected under boards.Is this the correct board or do I need to instal a new boards?What version of Arduino IDE are you using?I notice the external libraries RTClib.h, Wire.h. These libraries should say the version number.Can you let me know the version you are using?Thanks again for your help.

Hi I am having problem compiling this sketch. The avdweb_SAMDtimer site says "Attention: The new libraries Adafruit_ASFcore and Adafruit_ZeroTimer don't work anymore with the avdweb_SAMDtimer library. Therefore, install the older libraries, see the zip files." Could you let me know what version ASFcore and ZeroTimer libraries you have your code working on?I am getting the following error "ISR.cpp:556:1: error: expected '}' at end of input"

The displays look really good. It took me ages to hand make my display it was the most difficult part of the project.Once you have your design up and running would I be able to post your board details on my site?

Thanks for the info. When I get some time I will look into it.

Hi looking good so far.I still have problems with parts of "THE TIME IS" dissapearing.I can't work out why!Initially it was just written once and then I refreshed it at regular times.The problem is not as bad now once every few months but I have to correct it as you do by switching modes. Let me know if you find a solution.The word "sync" flashing from time to time may be the 30 sec sync input floating?If you don't have the 10K resistor R4 in circuit to tie it down just edit the code.Hope the rest of the build goes OK. What style case are you building the 2 part like my design or the routed design?

Hi I did try and keep my clock layout the same as the manufactured boards in that the four sections of the display are physically rotated compared to each other on the display.This means the clock can be built using a combination of the two designs depending on your manual build skill level/ability to manufacture your own boards.There are a number of build/design issues between the two clocks one being my design won't fit into the slim case of Wouter's clock.Glad you have sorted the issue with the capcitive touch. Post some pics of your completed clock. Will be interested to see how the mix and match of designs works out.

Hi you don't have to use the 30 second pulse the clock will run without it although the accuracy will be poor.

Off the top of my head. Do you have the manual trigger switch fitted and R1? The resistor R1 ties man trigger input to ground. If it's not fitted it will float and trigger at random. You don't need the manual trigger switch but you do need R1.Let me know how you get on.

What are you using to feed power into the LM2956?

I would double check your wiring/connections. Disconnect all the outputs and see if the problem still occurs. Did you notice my comment on the wiring? There is an error on the schematic-"Out+ from LM2596 goes to 5v of the stepper motor driver and Out- goes to 0v"

I think video streams on Blynk have moved on somewhat since I wrote this Instructable. I think they are now easier to implement. It may be worth going to Blynk first and have a read.

Have you tried the camera address in a web browser?

I don't have a link to the LiquidCrystal_I2C.h library but looking at my system it's called NewliquidCrystal. Created by Francisco Malpartida on 20/08/11.I must admit I know almost nothing about coding. I am the generation that used log books and slide rules at school. I learn code by finding a project and breaking it down and working out what things do.Thanks for your tips esp. the NCP23017 info it may well be useful for my future projects.

Thanks Palingenesis. No but it would prob fit on a Mega 2560. I had not seen a NCP23017 before will look into them as they look useful.

Thanks vizant glad you like it!

As far as I remember the jumper is out so my 12v supply feeds the motor and 5v feeds the driver circuit I think the picture may show it in place. Can't remember if my links can be fitted upside down to break the cxircuit. The onboard 5v regulator on the L298N is linear so is not very efficiant so I use the other regulator instead.The 5v is from the LM2596. I don't always show all the wires as the schematic gets a bit messy. If its got 5v on it then it will be from the LM2596.Redgards.Brett.

Hi ZeroBR.The LM2596 is set to 5v. The labels on the stepper motor driver are correct but I have drawn the connecting wires to the wrong place. OUT+ should go to 5v and 0v to 0v. I will have to correct that!D5 and SD0 is correct.The capacitor are just a bit of noise suppression/regulation. Try the circuit without them it will prob. be fine.

No problem.

Hi I really can't work out what that couild be. I know the touch sensors can be problematitic.Just to confirm top right should step forward Word clock to digital clock then temperature etc. Left button should go the other way?

Hi Kevr102. Great work! Glad it worked from inial power up - I had a couple of wiring errors.

Hi David.What display did you use for the larger clock?Brett.

Hi David. Have you turned it on via the display- the display is always on by default on power up? With the word clock showing press the bottom left touch button. The word PIR ON will appear on the top right for a few seconds.To turn off touch the bottom right touch button.Brett.

Has your motor got planitary gears? What sort of power supply are you using? Maybe the power supply is not upto the job? Also sounds a silly question what does your food look like. If it has many flat/sharp edged maybe it is causing the feeder to jam?

I am sure it would be possible but I wouldn't know how to go about it.

I am not sure. I have not used that device before. It says it will drive bi-polar stepper motors but I can only see 2 inputs to drive it. It may need a bit of playing around with the code or a differnet library. let me know how you get on.

Hi David. Yes the code can be modified instead of altering the LED modules. I have never tried it but if you contact JohnM217 (see his comment) I think he has done it in the setled function.

The resistor is necessary. As I said before the resistor holds the stepper start low when the start button is not pressed. If the resistor is left out then pin14 is left floating. This is why the motor runs non stop. By changing Pin14 to PIN1 you have in effect disabled Pin14. If you do not want the Man switch then you could have just left out the code for Pin14 and the resistor.

See all replies. The diagram is correct. If you don't fit resistor R1 the motor control pin will free float and will prob drive the motor continuosly.

See all replies. The diagram is correct. If you don't fit resistor R1 the motor control pin will free float and will prob drive the motor continuosly. Changing the line as above is not the correct solution.

Hi make sure the 10K resistor R1 is in place. This holds the manual feed off when the man fedd button is not pressed.

Not sure what you mean by "PLAY" button. There is no play button. In the top right hand corner there is the "FEED" button. Pressing this will feed once then stop.

Hi JavierD78. You sau the diagram is wrong. What did you change? If your stepper motor is continually running make sure the 10K resistor R1 is in place.

Hi if you go to the code section under software changes you can see what the sketches and libraries do. Off the top of my head if you want to just hide the games it may be easier to take them out of the menu?Was there a reason to take them out? I must admit I only really use the Word clock and maybe the temp/humidty display.

Hi Richard thanks for your comments. I'm glad I have inspired some of your ideas.I know what you mean about "satisfy one's other half " not all my projects make it into the house but have their own special room (my study). I can't remember adding hysteresis on my wo clock but then I just changed or added to the code. Both clocks do visibly jump in brightness but not too badly. Maybe I will look into the code and see what I can change.I love your anemometer display in the frame with the moving LEDs. LEDs and 7 segment displays are so much better to look at compared to the large LCD display on my Oregon Weather station.

Thanks for that I got my large DCF77 aerial from there.

Hi have a look at my latest code here https://drive.google.com/open?id=1CRTTMNpu1WXcRcx9... I have used the smaller displays on display 5 and 6. I think on your version I have commented out the original code to make my large dispalys work. I think that will be displays 3 and 4.I can't remember if I had said before but there is a diode fitted to the display boards in series with the input. This drops the voltage by about half a volt. In a long line of displays this causes problems. as all the diodes in series add up. I just short the diode out by soldering a link over it. Let me know if you are stil stuck.

I will be adding chimes etc to my Mk2 clock.Have you looked at Erik de Ruiter's clock https://create.arduino.cc/projecthub/edr1924/dcf77...he has added chimes to his. He has a Mk1 and MK2 clock. My code is copied from his and modified to suit.Please modify my code as you like as that's what I have done with Erik's code. You could always publish your completed clock on this site as I am sure there will be changes other people would like to use.My coding is my not that good I find it easier to change existing code.PS.I added full Westminster chimes to this clock http://www.brettoliver.org.uk/Regulator_Clock/Regulator_Clock.htm using a cheap Ebay module you may find some ideas there. The chimes sounds I recorded are free to download and play with as you wish.

Hi I am working on a MK2 DCF77 analyzer clock that uses both large and samll 7 segment displays. Here is a link to my code to see how I have modified my code to match the displays https://drive.google.com/open?id=1l9JzM_2tltTzHsAQ.... This is still very much a work in progress but you should be able to use this code to see how to modify your code. On my new clock large displays are RTC time display and date display. Small displays are used for the last 2 displays eg buffer bits and the pusle displays. I noticed these small displays gave loads of errors. I found that if I removed the diode and replaced it with a wire and also added a 10micro farad capacitor in the holes on the PCB they worked fine.

A quick thought on your clock not locking onto your signal. There are 2 types of receivers inverted and non inverted. The superfilter and DCF decoder need to be set to match the type of receiver you use.

Off the top of my head and first thing first. lets sort your displays. What sort of 7 segment modules are you using? I used the larger modules on this project. If you are using the smaller modules with a PCB 82mm long by 15mm wide then as I have found on my Mk2 clock the code will need to be modified.

Hi thesunny73 I am not sure what your problem is.You say some displays are bright and some are dim but are they working OK telling the time?I would go back to basics and confirm all the LEDs are connected the correct way round. Have a look here https://www.wikihow.com/Test-LED-Lights check with a spare LED then make sure all your LEDs are correct. If you have a multi meter I would also check through all the wiring (take all the ICs out first) to confirm every wire goes to the correct place. Let me know how you get on.Brett.

Maybe it's a library issue. Can you paste the error code here?

Hi HenryR57.I had to change my web site links updated. Link to this clock on my site http://www.brettoliver.org.uk/DCF77_Analyzer_Clock/DCF77_Analyzer_Clock.htmI am building a MK2 version of this clock. Here is a mock-up http://www.brettoliver.org.uk/DCF77_Analyzer_Clock/images/dial4k13.jpg

Normally are summers are even shorter than that.:)

Hi. Have you used the correct library? Udo has 3 versions of his library. This clock uses v2 http://www.brettoliver.org.uk/LCD_Master_Clock/dcf...See if that helps.Any problems just let me know.