oliverb

Hi have a look at my latest code here https://drive.google.com/open?id=1CRTTMNpu1WXcRcx9... I have used the smaller displays on display 5 and 6. I think on your version I have commented out the original code to make my large dispalys work. I think that will be displays 3 and 4.I can't remember if I had said before but there is a diode fitted to the display boards in series with the input. This drops the voltage by about half a volt. In a long line of displays this causes problems. as all the diodes in series add up. I just short the diode out by soldering a link over it. Let me know if you are stil stuck.

I will be adding chimes etc to my Mk2 clock.Have you looked at Erik de Ruiter's clock https://create.arduino.cc/projecthub/edr1924/dcf77...he has added chimes to his. He has a Mk1 and MK2 clock. My code is copied from his and modified to suit.Please modify my code as you like as that's what I have done with Erik's code. You could always publish your completed clock on this site as I am sure there will be changes other people would like to use.My coding is my not that good I find it easier to change existing code.PS.I added full Westminster chimes to this clock http://www.brettoliver.org.uk/Regulator_Clock/Regulator_Clock.htm using a cheap Ebay module you may find some ideas there. The chimes sounds I recorded are free to download and play with as you wish.

A quick thought on your clock not locking onto your signal. There are 2 types of receivers inverted and non inverted. The superfilter and DCF decoder need to be set to match the type of receiver you use.

Hi I am working on a MK2 DCF77 analyzer clock that uses both large and samll 7 segment displays. Here is a link to my code to see how I have modified my code to match the displays https://drive.google.com/open?id=1l9JzM_2tltTzHsAQ.... This is still very much a work in progress but you should be able to use this code to see how to modify your code. On my new clock large displays are RTC time display and date display. Small displays are used for the last 2 displays eg buffer bits and the pusle displays. I noticed these small displays gave loads of errors. I found that if I removed the diode and replaced it with a wire and also added a 10micro farad capacitor in the holes on the PCB they worked fine.

Off the top of my head and first thing first. lets sort your displays. What sort of 7 segment modules are you using? I used the larger modules on this project. If you are using the smaller modules with a PCB 82mm long by 15mm wide then as I have found on my Mk2 clock the code will need to be modified.

Hi thesunny73 I am not sure what your problem is.You say some displays are bright and some are dim but are they working OK telling the time?I would go back to basics and confirm all the LEDs are connected the correct way round. Have a look here https://www.wikihow.com/Test-LED-Lights check with a spare LED then make sure all your LEDs are correct. If you have a multi meter I would also check through all the wiring (take all the ICs out first) to confirm every wire goes to the correct place. Let me know how you get on.Brett.

Maybe it's a library issue. Can you paste the error code here?

Hi HenryR57.I had to change my web site links updated. Link to this clock on my site http://www.brettoliver.org.uk/DCF77_Analyzer_Clock/DCF77_Analyzer_Clock.htmI am building a MK2 version of this clock. Here is a mock-up http://www.brettoliver.org.uk/DCF77_Analyzer_Clock/images/dial4k13.jpg

Normally are summers are even shorter than that.:)

Hi. Have you used the correct library? Udo has 3 versions of his library. This clock uses v2 http://www.brettoliver.org.uk/LCD_Master_Clock/dcf...See if that helps.Any problems just let me know.

Hi I had to change to another part of BT for my web hosting and had to change my web address. Forget to change them on here as well :(. I have updated the links should all start http://www.brettoliver.org.uk/The code is here http://www.brettoliver.org.uk/Master_Clock_MK2/masterclockmk2.zip

Don't forget to get the vinly reverse cut and see if they can weed out the letters for you. My printer included weeding out the letters in the printing cost.

Hi you can get 30 days free trial of Illustrator so you can convert the file for printing.

Hi sorry for the confusion.VR5 is on the little MAX7219 IC board go to here and scroll down http://www.brettoliver.org.uk/Master_Clock_MK2/Mas...VR6 is mounted on the display board rear in any conveniant location so it can be adjusted from under the clock.There is no layout for the display board just a pic from the front to show where the componants are located.Q1,Q2 and Q3 are not shown on the layouts as I did not use them. They are there in case I connect slave clocks or electromechanical chimes as I did with my original master clock. I would connect these remote from the clock on a power transistor board.I will update my site/instructable when I get some time.Brett.

Hi Ted.It is certanly possible to make a year clock and changing the step rate of the clock is a good way of doing it. Unfortunatly I have so many projects on the go I just won't have the time to help. Have a look here https://www.bmumford.com/clocks/year/index.html this is a year clock with 1 hand. You could try contacting them to see if they can supply a movement to you?Good luck.Brett.

Hi I had 2 LEDs that failed. After a few weeks they started to go dim intermittently. At least with this design they are very easy to change. I checked the solder joint and it was fine.

Hi JulianC5.Not sure what you mean by the Hopper level counter. You need to set the hopper level to match your hopper here int hopperLevel = 34; // Hopper hold 34 feeds. My Hopper holds 34 feeds. I checked this by filling the hopper and counting the manual triggers until the hopper was empty.Each time Manual, App or Timer is triggered the Hopper count should decrement by 1.

Hi D6. Glad you found my instrutables helpful.Your lock sounds interesting...... post some pics as it progresses.You could include my mini work clock as it's quite simple to build and will not take up too much space on your clock face. https://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Word-Cloc...All the best.Brett.

I think on the video they were electronic chimes. I have also used an electro-mechanical bell in the past. There are some details here on my calendar clock http://www.brettoliver.org.uk/Calendar_Clock/Calendar_Clock.htm and also a different config on my Pragotron clock here http://www.brettoliver.org.uk/Pragotron_PJ42_Clock/Pragotron_PJ42.htm.

The Master Clock uses Udo Kleins Release 2 library download here http://home.btconnect.com/brettoliver1/LCD_Master_...This could be the problem.

Thanks for the code update. I am very busy with major building works on my home and will be for the next few months at least.I will paste this code into my website as a reminder for myself to look into adding it along with your previous comments.Post some more comments if you get any progress on your clock additions.

Have added your Analogue code change to the bottom of my site so I can try it out when I find some spare time. http://home.btconnect.com/brettoliver1/Word_Clock/...Thanks again for posting it.

RTC to remember timeI had the same problem but since I stopped using my master clock to change winter/summer time the issue is sorted.All I do now is leave R5 connected to input D7 and the clock works fine. I have powered the clock down for hours and it always remembers the time. I have now added a comment on my site and the Instructable site to point out this issue.Analogue ClockI had noticed the analogue clock lacked definition and will try and add your code when I get some time.All lights on ModeYes the initial all lights test is a bit buggy and a test mode menu would be great. I have added a led test on the prototyping page http://home.btconnect.com/brettoliver1/Word_Clock/... . This lights each LED in sequence to confirm the LED works and is wired correctly. There is an animation s...

RTC to remember timeI had the same problem but since I stopped using my master clock to change winter/summer time the issue is sorted.All I do now is leave R5 connected to input D7 and the clock works fine. I have powered the clock down for hours and it always remembers the time. I have now added a comment on my site and the Instructable site to point out this issue.Analogue ClockI had noticed the analogue clock lacked definition and will try and add your code when I get some time.All lights on ModeYes the initial all lights test is a bit buggy and a test mode menu would be great. I have added a led test on the prototyping page http://home.btconnect.com/brettoliver1/Word_Clock/... . This lights each LED in sequence to confirm the LED works and is wired correctly. There is an animation showing it working in that section. Maybe you could add this to your test and include all four displays rather than the single I have used?There should be a way of adding extra menus but I will need some spare time to look into the code.I seem to remember there is an option to set the boot mode. Is this what you have used or did you modify the code?Expansions Let me know how you get on with your expansions. If you get them going I will add the parts I want to my clock or maybe I could paste a link to your code as an alternative version?Workaround at the momentWhen in word clock mode, if the right bottom button is touched the seconds mode is turned off. There is some code when in time setting mode I think pressing the right touch sensor sets the seconds to 0. Maybe this is causing problems with your modification?

The displays are common-cathode as these work with the MAX7219 drivers.

Sorry David forgot to post it. Now at v4.5 includes tiny change to stop sync when the clock is already in sync. See code page for download or click here http://home.btconnect.com/brettoliver1/Word_Clock/images/Brett_wordclock_v4_5.zip

Some people have suggested or added a Microwave Radar Sensor RCWL0516 instead of the PIR module to this clock. See pic1.This seemed like a very good idea as it saves adding the remote PIR sensor. I have now added a Doppler Radar option from code v4.4.The clock now checks for movement on the quarter hour and will turn off the display if no movement detected. If movement is detected again the display will turn back on.Code v4.4 works for both PIR and Doppler Radar modules and uses the same wiring.Pic 2 a hole is drilled through the front panel so the microwave sensor on the module is exposed to the room. The module is hidden from view by the PVC sticker and glass (transparent to this sensor).Pic 3 rear view showing Doppler Radar module mounted on the back of the clock case.

Hi Burkhard.I had no problem copying the files over to my sound module. In case you have not seen it already there is a bit more info on my site here http://home.btconnect.com/brettoliver1/Regulator_C... or Electrofreaks here http://www.elecfreaks.com/wiki/index.php?title=JQ6... .At least you have found a solution by lowering the sampling rate you may not notice the difference anyway.Brett.

Hi m0o0hammad. Not sure what you mean.

Hi. Try this. Let me know how you get on.

Hi I have found an old library on my PC and have put it here......http://home.btconnect.com/brettoliver1/Timelapse_P...Let me know how you get on.

I have found this old library. May be worth a try.

Hi David.Sorry I don't have a full component list but it should be quite easy to get a list off the schematic.The Atmega 32 is the exact same chip used in the Uno. You can buy them off Ebay etc. Just search for Atmega 328P PU with bootloader. I highly recommend the version using Udo Klein's DCF77 Library I have used this library in all my DCF77 clocks.I have basically built my own UNO on Veroboard. The difference being I have added a Quartz crystal instead of the resonator found on Uno boards. See the easy mod here if you want to use an UNO http://home.btconnect.com/brettoliver1/LCD_Master_...The quartz crystal is required to use Udo Klein's DCF77 Library.

I will be moving my clock to a new location in the future and the radar module sound like a good idea.Is your Microwave Radar Sensor a RCWL0516?If so did you change the code to add a delay?

Well done! Install looks nice and clean did you hide the wires in the wall?

Hi I added this function quite late in the day once my clock was up and running. I have just checked my clock and I seem to get the same problem. I will let you know if I find a solution but maybe the Summer winter pin should be a toggle momentary hold high to set summer then hold high again to set to winter.

I can't see a direct connection with this and the RTC. However, leaving the D8 pin floating without a connection to a PIR/Radar module or a pull up to 5 volts is a definite situation to avoid. Maybe pin D8 floating is fluctuating so much that it is affecting the performance of the RTC?Glad you have it working now anyway.

Just to check are you now using non rechargeable batteries?May be worth checking if the SDA/SCL connections are connected correctly.

Hi I have downloaded the SVG file and it loads OK into Inkscape.I seem to remember this happening before. I think I deleted some blank characters from the ends of some of the rows to sort it.Did you send a link to your code as the link does not seem to work?

Well done the picture complements the Word Clock perfectly with it's shadowed back board.Look forward to seeing your build photo compilation.Brett.

Hi I am not sure what vinyl my printing company used. I just emailed them with details of what I wanted it to do and they supplied a product that worked perfectly.Maybe your white letters will be OK ? You can make the black vinyl darker by replacing the glass with some dark grey perspex. I have used this on my MINI Work clock https://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Word-Clock-Mini/ over inkjet printed clear sheet. The black was not black enough but adding the grey sheet worked perfectly. See an example of the sheet here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tinted-Colour-Perspex-Acrylic-Plastic-Sheet-Cut-to-Size-Window-Transparent-Glass/172112036431?var=470950462567&hash=item2812ad424f%3Am%3AmEgPwyB2NLkvAYIvJAbeO3Q&_sacat=0&_nkw=grey+perspex&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=p205043...

Hi I am not sure what vinyl my printing company used. I just emailed them with details of what I wanted it to do and they supplied a product that worked perfectly.Maybe your white letters will be OK ? You can make the black vinyl darker by replacing the glass with some dark grey perspex. I have used this on my MINI Work clock https://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Word-Clock-Mini/ over inkjet printed clear sheet. The black was not black enough but adding the grey sheet worked perfectly. See an example of the sheet here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tinted-Colour-Perspex-Acrylic-Plastic-Sheet-Cut-to-Size-Window-Transparent-Glass/172112036431?var=470950462567&hash=item2812ad424f%3Am%3AmEgPwyB2NLkvAYIvJAbeO3Q&_sacat=0&_nkw=grey+perspex&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=p2050430.m570.l1311.R1.TR1.TRC0.A0.H0.Xgrey+perspex.TRS0

I have pasted the StepperAK.h library in the code section of this instructable. Let me know how you get on.

Glad you have found the problem.Brett.

Maybe try plugging in a mobile or PC in the USB port and check the readings to see if they are fluctuating?http://home.btconnect.com/brettoliver1/Word_Clock/Word_Clock.htm#ldr

Have you checked the LDR connections?Is your LDR mounted through the case to the outside of the clock like my one?http://home.btconnect.com/brettoliver1/Word_Clock/Word_Clock.htm#ldr

Would be interested to see what price they come back with.

Is R5 in place looks like the clock is jumping in and out of summer/winter time?

Hi David. Sorry I only looked at theTetris code when I had trouble getting my touch sensors to work with it. I must admit I only really use the word clock part. Let me know if you find the problem.

Hi ThanT9.If you go to step 13 the code should be there at the bottom of the screen in a zip file.Let me know if you have any problems.Brett.

You should just be able to load MAX7219_LED_Test.ino after extracting from the zipped folder and it should run?Brett.

Hi the code is exactly the same code as the code you would normally run except I have changed the credits.h file (line 71) to test matrix 1 only.The code is only designed to have a single MAX2719 module matrix plugged in so you can test the wiring modification is correct on each module in turn.

Hi Carlos. First of all well done for completing the clock. It's not an easy project for an experienced builder let alone a first project!Your problems with the clock. Do you have the 10K resistor connected to D5 on the Nano? This resistor holds the 30 second sync off. If it is not connected the clock may randomly sync to 30 seconds.It could be the RTC not working. If you removed the resistor from the RTC board did you replace the rechargeable battery with a standard non rechargeable type?

Thanks dekeros!

srdevil feel free to share what ever you want.Brett.

No problem. Glad you got it sorted.

Hi I just used a standard cable https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksi...and cut the thick black outer sheathing off on the Nano end with a craft knife. The cable just plugs into the Nano's mini USB socket. Without the sheathing the cable is very flexible and can be bent inside the case to follow the cable form.

Hi you should be able to change the RTC from the original DS1307 to the DS 3231 without any code changes. Could it be the SCL and SDA pins on the RTC are reversed?

The clock has a RTC (real time clock) module. The time is set using buttons/the remote control depending on the version. Once set the time will be remembered by the RTC even if powered off.There is a newer version of my clock here https://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Pong-Clock-With-Temperature-and-Timer/ This has a thermometer and timer built in.

Hi JeyK2. My pet feeder is stored away in the loft so I can't check to see if I am having the same issues as you.Have you loaded the software from the QR code on my web page?

Hi Eric.The year or any of the words can be changed to whatever you want. Changing the year just requires the Text edited in Inkscape to the year you require. Regards.Brett.

Experimenting with this on my new Word Clock Mini (photo enclosed) and they seem to work very well through a layer of glass, perspex and card.I was going to drill a hole in the mount for a PIR but the RCWL-0516 Radar Microwave Motion Sensor work through all of the above and still detects motion at 12' (4m) away.I have changed the code so when activated by the bottom right touch button it will check for movement every 15 minutes and shutdown the display if none detected.

Hi srdevil/ S & H.Thanks for the code update my bolted on code for linear seconds really was ugly!I have tried it on my latest project a Word Clock Mini/Anniversary Clock and it works perfectly. See pic of prototype Word Clock Mini. I'll add an instructable soon.I will add your code to this Word Clock and upload the changed code ASAP.Regards.Brett.

Congratulations! Looks very good, this is not an easy project to build.Hope you enjoy it.Brett.

The 12v in is fine. The output 0v and 5v can use any of the 2 rails each as they are joined at the power module end.

Hi Carlos.Looking very good so far, very neat work!I think the applying the vinyl sticker and drilling the glass are the most nerve wrecking parts of the project Brett.

Hi I presume these are common points (I checked with a meter )so I connect them both together. The "solder" shown on the board is a vero pin. I use these as test points to connect a meter when setting the voltage. Just solder the power board to the vero board. I have used 2 x 0v and 2 x 5v rails.PS. Don't forget to adjust the Power board to 5v before plugging in any modules.

Hi Carlos.These type of capacitor don't normally show a voltage rating. In general capacitors should be at least 2x the voltage rating of the circuit. In this case 10 volts. Brett.

Hi Carlos.It doesn't really matter as long as they are soldered to the pins somewhere. This is quite tricky and takes a bit of practise as there is not a lot of space to get your soldering iron in.Brett.

Just added another step (9).I have modified the Word Clock sketch to enable the MAX2719 Module to be tested after the wiring mod.All this program does id light each LED in turn from the top left to the bottom right of the matrix.Just connect 5 wires to the NANO and MAX2719 Module and power the NANO from it's USB port.Load the sketch and let it run.Just plug in each module in turn to check your wiring.

Hi the capacitor I have used for C2 is 0.1μF along with C1 this is just a decoupling capacitor. I will add these to the schematic as I have probably left them out.A3 is solder pin and the wire from it goes to A3 on the NANO. You can solder direct to the Veroboard if you like. The LDR can be plugged into the 2 pin socket or soldered to the board/pins next to the socket. When I design my veroboards I often leave in a couple of choices as I am not sure what I will use in the finished project.

I have had a thought from the MAX2719 data sheet it talks about supply bypassing and wiring. See extract below. It may be worth adding an additional electrolytic capacitors across the power rails on each of the MAX2719 module boards. Also make sure there is power wired to both ends of the MAX2719 module chain."Supply Bypassing and WiringTo minimize power-supply ripple due to the peak digitdriver currents, connect a 10μF electrolytic and a 0.1μFceramic capacitor between V+ and GND as close tothe device as possible. The MAX7219/MAX7221 shouldbe placed in close proximity to the LED display, andconnections should be kept as short as possible tominimize the effects of wiring inductance and electromagneticinterference. Also, both GND pins must beconnected to ground."

Hi I don't think you would need a physical sensor to measure the hopper level. Once your system is setup fill the hopper to the top and count how many feed it takes to empty. Do this a few times and then take the average and use this for the hopper setting on the Blynk app.You could always check the hopper level on the webcam if you have it connected.The timer values are on the phone and sent via the Blynk app.I am not sure what Homebridge is or how it works so I can't help you on that one.

No problem glad you like it.

Did you have a problem with your clock not displaying "THE TIME IS" ?Many people seem to have this error. My clock did suffer from it until I redrew the "THE TIME IS" on every 10 mins.The code you have added should re-draw every minute. Let me know how it goes.Brett.

I must admit I don't know what else to try. My clock works fine now without the minute refresh.Not connecting the PIR module, the Buzzer, the summer / winter switch and the synch module should not make a difference.

Hi David.Glad you managed to build it OK. It's not the easiest project to build but worth all the effort.5 seconds per month is not bad at all.

If you open the code and go to time.cpp.Goto line 694This part of the program tells the time in words.If you look for the comment // Show "THE TIME IS"at line 837 this is the general minutes // No mintues name display 5,10,15 etc mins past or to the hour if ( (m > 1 && m < 5) || (m > 5 && m < 10) || (m > 10 && m < 15) || (m > 15 && m < 20 ) || (m > 20 && m <25) || (m > 25 && m < 30) || (m > 30 && m < 35) || (m > 35 && m < 40) || (m > 40 && m < 45 )|| (m > 45 && m < 50) || (m > 50 && m < 55) || (m > 55 && m < 59)) { addWordToFrame(w_minute); addWordToFrame(w_s); }So at line 840 add // Show...

If you open the code and go to time.cpp.Goto line 694This part of the program tells the time in words.If you look for the comment // Show "THE TIME IS"at line 837 this is the general minutes // No mintues name display 5,10,15 etc mins past or to the hour if ( (m > 1 && m < 5) || (m > 5 && m < 10) || (m > 10 && m < 15) || (m > 15 && m < 20 ) || (m > 20 && m <25) || (m > 25 && m < 30) || (m > 30 && m < 35) || (m > 35 && m < 40) || (m > 40 && m < 45 )|| (m > 45 && m < 50) || (m > 50 && m < 55) || (m > 55 && m < 59)) { addWordToFrame(w_minute); addWordToFrame(w_s); }So at line 840 add // Show "THE TIME IS" addWordToFrame(w_the); addWordToFrame(w_time); addWordToFrame(w_is);so from line 839 it will now read { addWordToFrame(w_minute); // Show "THE TIME IS" addWordToFrame(w_the); addWordToFrame(w_time); addWordToFrame(w_is); addWordToFrame(w_minute); addWordToFrame(w_s); }Try this and it should refresh "the time is" every minute.Brett

Hi I see what you mean now. you are correct Anode vertical and Cathode Horizontal. I have changed the text for Photo 3 to say "Close up section of module wiring" and have taken out the 1.

Hi I couldn't find the error but I think when you click on the old photos the pic showing the bent LED was not showing correctly so it made the pics appear out of sync. I have re-jigged the photos on step 20 so the drawing is first.I could not see your pictures can you post them again?Brett.

I presume it's a glitch with the MAX7219 corrupting. The Time is stays on all the time so I think in the latest version I redraw it every now and then. Maybe you could set it to redraw every minute? My clock has been fine since I have done the update.

Yeah that's how I do it. Just twist with a pair of pliers.

I remember when my touch sensors were on my breadboard they were a bit temperamental. Some days they were fine other days only some would work. Once on the clock they were fine. Maybe they don't like breadboard or maybe they don't like being close together with wires in front of them? The boot sequence is often strange. I have never looked into it but I rarely get all LEDs lit but often get 1 matrix missing. Does not seem to stop the clock running though.

Hi srdevil.Just a very quick reply for now.You won't need to set the time in advance it can be set when the clock is running.The summertime button needs a 10k resistor to pull it down to earth even if it is not connected or the Arduino will add and remove 1 hour at random due to the input floating.Same goes with the 30 second sync. This will make the clock reset to 30 seconds at random.This may solve some of your problems.I'll have a proper read through when I get some more time later.Regards.Brett.

Hi.1 Yes that is the same box with the ESP8266 removed2 The standard and thermal fuse are on the 12 volt input. The 12 volt input goes into the big green connector then through the fuse then through the thermal fuse. The thermal fuse is strapped to the outside of the motor as protection in case it overheats.I use 0.5mm solid wire for the main wiring. Then 2 amp multi core wire for the output to the motor from the H bridge (I think the motor has wire already attached) and also the 12v feed to the H bridge.

Hi Carlos. The best position for the LEDs is to position the actual illuminated part (near the back of the LED) just into the cone. The light will then spreads sideways into the cone. This will be more like your top diagram.I did a trial with an illuminated LED and an offcut of MDF with a conical hole to get the best position. There is a bit of leeway.

The bend in the LED legs sets the position of the LED depth in the hole. This should be set to get the max spread of light into the cone shaped hole.

Hi Carlos I would use matt black.Don't forget to get the sticker reverse printed.The company I used also weeded out the lettering for me.