oliverb

I will be moving my clock to a new location in the future and the radar module sound like a good idea.Is your Microwave Radar Sensor a RCWL0516?If so did you change the code to add a delay?

Well done! Install looks nice and clean did you hide the wires in the wall?

Hi I added this function quite late in the day once my clock was up and running. I have just checked my clock and I seem to get the same problem. I will let you know if I find a solution but maybe the Summer winter pin should be a toggle momentary hold high to set summer then hold high again to set to winter.

I can't see a direct connection with this and the RTC. However, leaving the D8 pin floating without a connection to a PIR/Radar module or a pull up to 5 volts is a definite situation to avoid. Maybe pin D8 floating is fluctuating so much that it is affecting the performance of the RTC?Glad you have it working now anyway.

Just to check are you now using non rechargeable batteries?May be worth checking if the SDA/SCL connections are connected correctly.

Hi I have downloaded the SVG file and it loads OK into Inkscape.I seem to remember this happening before. I think I deleted some blank characters from the ends of some of the rows to sort it.Did you send a link to your code as the link does not seem to work?

Well done the picture complements the Word Clock perfectly with it's shadowed back board.Look forward to seeing your build photo compilation.Brett.

Hi I am not sure what vinyl my printing company used. I just emailed them with details of what I wanted it to do and they supplied a product that worked perfectly.Maybe your white letters will be OK ? You can make the black vinyl darker by replacing the glass with some dark grey perspex. I have used this on my MINI Work clock https://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Word-Clock-Mini/ over inkjet printed clear sheet. The black was not black enough but adding the grey sheet worked perfectly. See an example of the sheet here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tinted-Colour-Perspex-Acrylic-Plastic-Sheet-Cut-to-Size-Window-Transparent-Glass/172112036431?var=470950462567&hash=item2812ad424f%3Am%3AmEgPwyB2NLkvAYIvJAbeO3Q&_sacat=0&_nkw=grey+perspex&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=p205043...

Hi I am not sure what vinyl my printing company used. I just emailed them with details of what I wanted it to do and they supplied a product that worked perfectly.Maybe your white letters will be OK ? You can make the black vinyl darker by replacing the glass with some dark grey perspex. I have used this on my MINI Work clock https://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Word-Clock-Mini/ over inkjet printed clear sheet. The black was not black enough but adding the grey sheet worked perfectly. See an example of the sheet here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tinted-Colour-Perspex-Acrylic-Plastic-Sheet-Cut-to-Size-Window-Transparent-Glass/172112036431?var=470950462567&hash=item2812ad424f%3Am%3AmEgPwyB2NLkvAYIvJAbeO3Q&_sacat=0&_nkw=grey+perspex&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=p2050430.m570.l1311.R1.TR1.TRC0.A0.H0.Xgrey+perspex.TRS0

I have pasted the StepperAK.h library in the code section of this instructable. Let me know how you get on.

Glad you have found the problem.Brett.

Maybe try plugging in a mobile or PC in the USB port and check the readings to see if they are fluctuating?http://home.btconnect.com/brettoliver1/Word_Clock/Word_Clock.htm#ldr

Have you checked the LDR connections?Is your LDR mounted through the case to the outside of the clock like my one?http://home.btconnect.com/brettoliver1/Word_Clock/Word_Clock.htm#ldr

Would be interested to see what price they come back with.

Is R5 in place looks like the clock is jumping in and out of summer/winter time?

Hi David. Sorry I only looked at theTetris code when I had trouble getting my touch sensors to work with it. I must admit I only really use the word clock part. Let me know if you find the problem.

Hi ThanT9.If you go to step 13 the code should be there at the bottom of the screen in a zip file.Let me know if you have any problems.Brett.

You should just be able to load MAX7219_LED_Test.ino after extracting from the zipped folder and it should run?Brett.

Hi the code is exactly the same code as the code you would normally run except I have changed the credits.h file (line 71) to test matrix 1 only.The code is only designed to have a single MAX2719 module matrix plugged in so you can test the wiring modification is correct on each module in turn.

Hi Carlos. First of all well done for completing the clock. It's not an easy project for an experienced builder let alone a first project!Your problems with the clock. Do you have the 10K resistor connected to D5 on the Nano? This resistor holds the 30 second sync off. If it is not connected the clock may randomly sync to 30 seconds.It could be the RTC not working. If you removed the resistor from the RTC board did you replace the rechargeable battery with a standard non rechargeable type?

Thanks dekeros!

srdevil feel free to share what ever you want.Brett.

No problem. Glad you got it sorted.

Hi I just used a standard cable https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksi...and cut the thick black outer sheathing off on the Nano end with a craft knife. The cable just plugs into the Nano's mini USB socket. Without the sheathing the cable is very flexible and can be bent inside the case to follow the cable form.

Hi you should be able to change the RTC from the original DS1307 to the DS 3231 without any code changes. Could it be the SCL and SDA pins on the RTC are reversed?

The clock has a RTC (real time clock) module. The time is set using buttons/the remote control depending on the version. Once set the time will be remembered by the RTC even if powered off.There is a newer version of my clock here https://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Pong-Clock-With-Temperature-and-Timer/ This has a thermometer and timer built in.

Hi JeyK2. My pet feeder is stored away in the loft so I can't check to see if I am having the same issues as you.Have you loaded the software from the QR code on my web page?

Hi Eric.The year or any of the words can be changed to whatever you want. Changing the year just requires the Text edited in Inkscape to the year you require. Regards.Brett.

Experimenting with this on my new Word Clock Mini (photo enclosed) and they seem to work very well through a layer of glass, perspex and card.I was going to drill a hole in the mount for a PIR but the RCWL-0516 Radar Microwave Motion Sensor work through all of the above and still detects motion at 12' (4m) away.I have changed the code so when activated by the bottom right touch button it will check for movement every 15 minutes and shutdown the display if none detected.

Hi srdevil/ S & H.Thanks for the code update my bolted on code for linear seconds really was ugly!I have tried it on my latest project a Word Clock Mini/Anniversary Clock and it works perfectly. See pic of prototype Word Clock Mini. I'll add an instructable soon.I will add your code to this Word Clock and upload the changed code ASAP.Regards.Brett.

Congratulations! Looks very good, this is not an easy project to build.Hope you enjoy it.Brett.

The 12v in is fine. The output 0v and 5v can use any of the 2 rails each as they are joined at the power module end.

Hi Carlos.Looking very good so far, very neat work!I think the applying the vinyl sticker and drilling the glass are the most nerve wrecking parts of the project Brett.

Hi I presume these are common points (I checked with a meter )so I connect them both together. The "solder" shown on the board is a vero pin. I use these as test points to connect a meter when setting the voltage. Just solder the power board to the vero board. I have used 2 x 0v and 2 x 5v rails.PS. Don't forget to adjust the Power board to 5v before plugging in any modules.

Hi Carlos.These type of capacitor don't normally show a voltage rating. In general capacitors should be at least 2x the voltage rating of the circuit. In this case 10 volts. Brett.

Hi Carlos.It doesn't really matter as long as they are soldered to the pins somewhere. This is quite tricky and takes a bit of practise as there is not a lot of space to get your soldering iron in.Brett.

Just added another step (9).I have modified the Word Clock sketch to enable the MAX2719 Module to be tested after the wiring mod.All this program does id light each LED in turn from the top left to the bottom right of the matrix.Just connect 5 wires to the NANO and MAX2719 Module and power the NANO from it's USB port.Load the sketch and let it run.Just plug in each module in turn to check your wiring.

Hi the capacitor I have used for C2 is 0.1μF along with C1 this is just a decoupling capacitor. I will add these to the schematic as I have probably left them out.A3 is solder pin and the wire from it goes to A3 on the NANO. You can solder direct to the Veroboard if you like. The LDR can be plugged into the 2 pin socket or soldered to the board/pins next to the socket. When I design my veroboards I often leave in a couple of choices as I am not sure what I will use in the finished project.

I have had a thought from the MAX2719 data sheet it talks about supply bypassing and wiring. See extract below. It may be worth adding an additional electrolytic capacitors across the power rails on each of the MAX2719 module boards. Also make sure there is power wired to both ends of the MAX2719 module chain."Supply Bypassing and WiringTo minimize power-supply ripple due to the peak digitdriver currents, connect a 10μF electrolytic and a 0.1μFceramic capacitor between V+ and GND as close tothe device as possible. The MAX7219/MAX7221 shouldbe placed in close proximity to the LED display, andconnections should be kept as short as possible tominimize the effects of wiring inductance and electromagneticinterference. Also, both GND pins must beconnected to ground."

Hi I don't think you would need a physical sensor to measure the hopper level. Once your system is setup fill the hopper to the top and count how many feed it takes to empty. Do this a few times and then take the average and use this for the hopper setting on the Blynk app.You could always check the hopper level on the webcam if you have it connected.The timer values are on the phone and sent via the Blynk app.I am not sure what Homebridge is or how it works so I can't help you on that one.

No problem glad you like it.

Did you have a problem with your clock not displaying "THE TIME IS" ?Many people seem to have this error. My clock did suffer from it until I redrew the "THE TIME IS" on every 10 mins.The code you have added should re-draw every minute. Let me know how it goes.Brett.

I must admit I don't know what else to try. My clock works fine now without the minute refresh.Not connecting the PIR module, the Buzzer, the summer / winter switch and the synch module should not make a difference.

Hi David.Glad you managed to build it OK. It's not the easiest project to build but worth all the effort.5 seconds per month is not bad at all.

If you open the code and go to time.cpp.Goto line 694This part of the program tells the time in words.If you look for the comment // Show "THE TIME IS"at line 837 this is the general minutes // No mintues name display 5,10,15 etc mins past or to the hour if ( (m > 1 && m < 5) || (m > 5 && m < 10) || (m > 10 && m < 15) || (m > 15 && m < 20 ) || (m > 20 && m <25) || (m > 25 && m < 30) || (m > 30 && m < 35) || (m > 35 && m < 40) || (m > 40 && m < 45 )|| (m > 45 && m < 50) || (m > 50 && m < 55) || (m > 55 && m < 59)) { addWordToFrame(w_minute); addWordToFrame(w_s); }So at line 840 add // Show...

If you open the code and go to time.cpp.Goto line 694This part of the program tells the time in words.If you look for the comment // Show "THE TIME IS"at line 837 this is the general minutes // No mintues name display 5,10,15 etc mins past or to the hour if ( (m > 1 && m < 5) || (m > 5 && m < 10) || (m > 10 && m < 15) || (m > 15 && m < 20 ) || (m > 20 && m <25) || (m > 25 && m < 30) || (m > 30 && m < 35) || (m > 35 && m < 40) || (m > 40 && m < 45 )|| (m > 45 && m < 50) || (m > 50 && m < 55) || (m > 55 && m < 59)) { addWordToFrame(w_minute); addWordToFrame(w_s); }So at line 840 add // Show "THE TIME IS" addWordToFrame(w_the); addWordToFrame(w_time); addWordToFrame(w_is);so from line 839 it will now read { addWordToFrame(w_minute); // Show "THE TIME IS" addWordToFrame(w_the); addWordToFrame(w_time); addWordToFrame(w_is); addWordToFrame(w_minute); addWordToFrame(w_s); }Try this and it should refresh "the time is" every minute.Brett

Hi I see what you mean now. you are correct Anode vertical and Cathode Horizontal. I have changed the text for Photo 3 to say "Close up section of module wiring" and have taken out the 1.

Hi I couldn't find the error but I think when you click on the old photos the pic showing the bent LED was not showing correctly so it made the pics appear out of sync. I have re-jigged the photos on step 20 so the drawing is first.I could not see your pictures can you post them again?Brett.

I presume it's a glitch with the MAX7219 corrupting. The Time is stays on all the time so I think in the latest version I redraw it every now and then. Maybe you could set it to redraw every minute? My clock has been fine since I have done the update.

Yeah that's how I do it. Just twist with a pair of pliers.

I remember when my touch sensors were on my breadboard they were a bit temperamental. Some days they were fine other days only some would work. Once on the clock they were fine. Maybe they don't like breadboard or maybe they don't like being close together with wires in front of them? The boot sequence is often strange. I have never looked into it but I rarely get all LEDs lit but often get 1 matrix missing. Does not seem to stop the clock running though.

Hi srdevil.Just a very quick reply for now.You won't need to set the time in advance it can be set when the clock is running.The summertime button needs a 10k resistor to pull it down to earth even if it is not connected or the Arduino will add and remove 1 hour at random due to the input floating.Same goes with the 30 second sync. This will make the clock reset to 30 seconds at random.This may solve some of your problems.I'll have a proper read through when I get some more time later.Regards.Brett.

Hi.1 Yes that is the same box with the ESP8266 removed2 The standard and thermal fuse are on the 12 volt input. The 12 volt input goes into the big green connector then through the fuse then through the thermal fuse. The thermal fuse is strapped to the outside of the motor as protection in case it overheats.I use 0.5mm solid wire for the main wiring. Then 2 amp multi core wire for the output to the motor from the H bridge (I think the motor has wire already attached) and also the 12v feed to the H bridge.

Hi Carlos. The best position for the LEDs is to position the actual illuminated part (near the back of the LED) just into the cone. The light will then spreads sideways into the cone. This will be more like your top diagram.I did a trial with an illuminated LED and an offcut of MDF with a conical hole to get the best position. There is a bit of leeway.

The bend in the LED legs sets the position of the LED depth in the hole. This should be set to get the max spread of light into the cone shaped hole.

Hi Carlos I would use matt black.Don't forget to get the sticker reverse printed.The company I used also weeded out the lettering for me.

Hi JeyK2. No a stepper motor has to be used.

This is the diameter. You can use Tinned or bare copper. Here is an example of bare copper wire on Ebay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Copper-round-wire-unplated-bare-0-9-mm-x-10m/162726215542?hash=item25e33cff76:g:-~oAAOSwQupXXpSf

Hi sorry about the error and thanks for pointing it out. I drew up the documentation after building the clock and made a typo in photoshop.Glad you have the prototype working now.

I did have a similar problem but it only happend once in a while. I thought as "The Time Is" is static the MAX2719 modules were corrupting so I added a refresh so they are reloaded .See v3.7 Found "THE TIME IS" was corrupting every now and then. Modified time.cpp to refresh "THE TIME IS" on every time computation.Since I added this change I have not seen the problem again.

Hi ferra1980 it is the data wires out of the Arduino and in and out of the MAX7219 modules that need to be short. Yours look almost perfect. Well done for completing the clock. How is it running?

Good work. Look forward to seeing the photos as your full size build progresses.

I think the best way is to power from the USB into the Arduino. USB is 5 volts . If you are feeding from 12 volts via analogue voltage regulators on your prototyping board or via Arduino power in the regulators may be struggling to cope with all the LEDs on.

Hi Carlos. I wonder if your leads from the UNO to the first MAX2719 board are too long. Also try taking a 5v and Gnd out from the last MAX2719 board back to the 5v and Gnd on your main board. MAX2719 are sending a lot of data over those wires. In my finished board I have kept them very close to the NANO board and each other.

Have you built the clock or just a prototype? How long are your wires from the development board to the MAX2719 they should be kept as short as possible?

Hi Carlos. Your connections on the MAX2719 module seem fine. It may be worth checking your modules have the same connections as my modules. Unplug the MAX2719 IC and using a meter check the connections from the IC pins to the display pins are the same as my enclosed picture. The port 5 will be fine as long as the resistor is connected to ground and the sync pin.I will get back to you Saturday on your other questions.Brett.

My MAX2719 are also not originals. I just use cheap modules from Ebay so yours should be fine.

My MAX2719 are also not originals. I just use cheap modules from Ebay so yours should be fine.

Hi Carlos. I think the UNO connections are OK as the Matrixes do light. Not sure what you mean about the second Gnd entry?Looking back at your pictures on the LED test it is the same ROWs on all matrices that don't light up. Maybe we are getting stuck on this as I seem to remember my startup not always being the same. In some of your pics I can see there rows lit so the connections must be good.Did you print out the paper test overlays and fit them to the displays?Is there anyway you could send a video (temporarily post it to Youtube or something similar) of of the matrixes running with the paper overlays fitted?Brett.

Hi Carlos.It looks like you have the displays in the correct orientation. I can't see from your pics but the Arduino connection should go in from MAX7219 end of the bottom right module as per my prototype picture?Before you go any further I would print out the paper overlays shown in my site here http://home.btconnect.com/brettoliver1/Word_Clock/...Lay them over your displays you can then see exactly what output you are getting.When you press reset a display test is performed lighting each section in turn. It could be from your pictures 2 rows on each display are not connected properly?

You will be fine using an unmodified RTC to test the module.I only take out the resistor and change the battery as there are a few write ups online on the safety of the circuit design long term using a rechargeble battery.

Hi you can use the middle contact and one of the outside contacts. It does not matter which one of the outside contacts you use.

Hi Carlos. Thanks for the photos. Won't be long now and you will have your prototype up and running so you can play around with the wording.

1 Yes, for testing the original resistor is fine.3 The pink numbers and green A0 to A5 will be on your UNO board.

Hi Carlos2 Yes your connections look fine.Brett.

Hi Carlos.3 Have a look at the enclosed image. This shows all the pins that can be configured on the UNO. It's a bit confusing as first but it should be what you are looking for.Regards. Brett.

1 My reply seems to have disappeared.Your board has SMDs. These are miniature components soldered on the surface of the PCB. See my picture R1 is marked 103. You can removed it and replace with a full size resistor if you need to change the maximum LED current later on.

Hi Carlos.1 Your board does have resistors and capacitors. Your board has SMD (surface mount device) types . They are just miniature components that solder to pads on top of the PCB. See my picture R1 is the tiny rectangular blob marked 103. You can desolder this and replace with a conventional resistor to set the LED brightness later on. 103 means 10 with 3 zeroes or 10K .

A single 5v power supply will do for the Nano and modules. Using my setup the max current is 250mA. This is with my LEDs set to 20mA on the MAX2719 ICs. If you set the MAX current for the LEDs at 30mA then current will be much higher than this.Just make sure you power supply can deliver a regulated 5v at these current levels and you will be fine.

Hi cfb70. Yes this should be fine for testing. I think they use analog regulators so they will get hot if the voltage in is way above 5volts.

Nice setup.Brett.

Thanks for re-sending. Looking good so far.

That's a good idea.I could only open the first photo in Windows. Could not open the rest. Can you resend in jpg?

I modified the original clock from Catalan but to be honest it does not matter what language it was written in you will need to change it to the way you say the time.In English there are many different ways of saying the time depending on your "class", schooling and where you live. You will first need to make up a table of word /time mapping see the mapping for my clock here http://home.btconnect.com/brettoliver1/Word_Clock/Word_Clock.htm#wordmap.Once you have decided on your words you will need to play around with them in Inkscape as you can use parts of words to make up several words. I would suggest you build a prototype using the dot matrix displays first to make sure all the word combinations work. See here http://home.btconnect.com/brettoliver1/Word_Clock/Word_Clock.htm...

I modified the original clock from Catalan but to be honest it does not matter what language it was written in you will need to change it to the way you say the time.In English there are many different ways of saying the time depending on your "class", schooling and where you live. You will first need to make up a table of word /time mapping see the mapping for my clock here http://home.btconnect.com/brettoliver1/Word_Clock/Word_Clock.htm#wordmap.Once you have decided on your words you will need to play around with them in Inkscape as you can use parts of words to make up several words. I would suggest you build a prototype using the dot matrix displays first to make sure all the word combinations work. See here http://home.btconnect.com/brettoliver1/Word_Clock/Word_Clock.htm#prototypeThen you can modify the code. There is a small section on doing this on my website under coding.Let me know how you get on.

Hi David.Well done. 1st stage completed.As you continue your build let me know if I have made any errors/missed out any information on my website or this instructable.Brett.

When I load up the file from Inkscape and click on the text it shows as DROID SANS MONO font size 51.2 Style CSS Normal Face Regular.I never really worked out how to use Inkscape I used the file from the Wouter Devinck Clock and pasted my own words into Inkscape.

Hi cfb70 the main thing is the hole is larger than your lettering.16mm should cover the letters OK. Test it on an offcut of MDF first. The wooden jig allows you to get uniform holes with the countersinking bit.

Hi David. I have used chromed caps to match the black and white theme of the clock but stainless would be fine.

I took the diagonal midpoint from the corner letters to the corner of the glass. This will be the mounting point for the touch sensors so make sure you leave enough space for the touch sensor PCB. You can always mark this point on the front MDF panel and lay the touch sensors on the MDF to ensure there is enough clearance. Anywhere near the diagonal midpoint should be fine.

I am only a Novice on Inkscape so can't really help. I have downloaded the file onto my PC and all the words are alligned.

Have added a new step just showing the re-drawn Veroboards.

Hi the USB connector only needs 2 pins connected. See this pic for pinouts http://petrockblog.files.wordpress.com/2012/05/wpi... I will try and re-draw my Veroboard diagram to make it a bit clearer.I can't remember but you may have to bend the other connector pins away or cut them off.All the switches apart from the reset switch connect at one end to 5volts. The other ends connect to the Arduino Pins as follows: Select, Rotate, Left/M- and Right/M+.The rest Switch connects one end to 0v and the other to the reset pin of the Arduino.I'll let you know when I have updated the Veroboard layouts.