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  • p_leriche commented on p_leriche's instructable Zoom Control Box
    Zoom Control Box

    Any Pro Micro clone should be fine, including cheap ones from the Far East. One review on amazon of the AITRIP board said the microUSB socket wasn't securely attached and came off. That's a generic problem with surface mount microUSB sockets - a poor design with inadequate fixing points. Always treat them gently, and wiggle the plug sideways, never up and down, if you need to in order to pull it out.

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  • p_leriche commented on p_leriche's instructable Zoom Control Box
    Zoom Control Box

    Hi pranavreddy379 - I appreciate your desire for a schematic, and as I said in a previous comment, I get fed up with Instructables which simply give you a knitting pattern with no explanation of how it works. But in this case, there's just a button connected from each of the approprate Arduino pins to ground. Nothing more. So a schematic wouldn't really add anything.

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  • p_leriche commented on p_leriche's instructable Zoom Control Box
    Zoom Control Box

    Very professional looking implementation - well done and thanks for sharing!

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  • p_leriche commented on p_leriche's instructable Zoom Control Box
    Zoom Control Box

    You wouldn't be an organist would you? Or perhaps you should take up the organ!Brilliant idea!

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  • Bluetooth Zoom/OBS Controller

    Obrigado - o prazer é meu!

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  • p_leriche's instructable Bluetooth Zoom/OBS Controller's weekly stats:
    • Bluetooth Zoom/OBS Controller
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  • Bluetooth Zoom/OBS Controller

    The HC-05 can only do a Bluetooth COM port, not a keyboard. A year or two back I tried following an Instructable telling you how to replace the firmware, but the firmware you had to substitute has disappeared from the web. Get yourself an ESP-WROOM-32 and join the fun!

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  • p_leriche commented on p_leriche's instructable Zoom Control Box
    Zoom Control Box

    A timely question! The Bluetooth version is complete and I'm working on the Instructable. It may take a week or two.

    1) I get fed up with Instructables that don't include a schematic to help you understand them, but instead just give you a knitting pattern! But the schematic is hardly worth having in this case as it would simply consist of 6 push buttons connected to ground.2) I son't know why that would be. Create a new sketch and save it as ZoomButtons, then copy ZoomButtons.ino into the foder ZoomButtons in your Arduino folder.

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  • Map Pendants With NFC Tags

    I nice idea, but it would be great if you could add a source (any source) for the NFC tags to give people a better idea of what they are and the cost (very little), and also, importantly, how to program them. A special app? A built-in iOS or Android function? That would encourage a lot more people to make their own.

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  • How to Service a Sewing Machine

    When you say the stitch length can’t be adjusted I presume you mean that you can move the lever but it makes no difference.First, make sure there’s no dust, fluff or anything else amongst the feed dogs. Try a crevice tool on your vacuum cleaner from underneath as well as from the top.If no improvement, lift the foot and see whether the feed dogs move as they should when you turn the machine by hand. If not, maybe there’s a linkage that has come loose. Looking underneath as you turn the machine by hand or adjust the stitch length lever you may be able to see what the problem is. If it’s not something you can fix by tightening something you’ll need to take it to a sewing machine technician. Good luck!

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  • p_leriche commented on p_leriche's instructable Zoom Control Box
    Zoom Control Box

    Very nice implementation - thanks for sharing!

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  • How to Build Arduino Weighing Scales

    Yes, of course, almost any Arduino. You just need a breadboard for the small form factor ones which you can't easily wire up otherwise.

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  • Build a Better Raspberry Pi Power Button

    I normally try and help people as much as I can but I'm somewhat tied up at the moment, and it's a good while since I looked at this. I think different Pis work slightly differently. You need to sit down with the code until you understand it (it's not that hard and fairly well documented) then work out your own diagnostics using print statements and/or LEDs. Do report back with your progress.

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  • USB Volume Control and Caps Lock LED - Simple, Cheap, Extensible

    Thank you! I think it was the rn42.xpv that was giving me trouble. From my notes from last year it seems all the downloads I found were either contained in corrupt zip files or rejected by Blueflash. I might have another go sometime, but I'm currently using a ESP-WROOM-32 dev board.

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  • How to Build Arduino Weighing Scales

    Thank you Daniel, and sorry for taking a little while to reply. You're dead right, and I've changed the diagram accordingly. Does that look right now? Amazing that it's taken 3½ years and nearly 75,000 pairs of eyes to spot this - you get teacher's gold star!

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  • p_leriche commented on p_leriche's instructable Zoom Control Box
    Zoom Control Box

    Nice build, and glad it was so well received!Where did you get the box? I've just received one 125x80x32mm from AliExpress for my Bluetooth version, but it's not quite a compact as I'd like.

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  • How to Build Arduino Weighing Scales

    I'm afraid I have no direct knowledge of the antipodean market but I'm sure you should be able to find all you need on eBay, either from local sellers (if they exist) and if not, from the Far East.

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  • How to Build Arduino Weighing Scales

    By all means ask what you like!

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  • p_leriche commented on p_leriche's instructable Zoom Control Box
    Zoom Control Box

    Very nice! Where did you get the box from? I'm looking for a project box for a Bluetooth version but having trouble finding one just the right size.

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  • ESP32-Touch, Hall, I2C, PWM, ADC, & DAC

    I wired up 6 touch sensors and polled them in a loop. But I found that they all reported zero all the time! I fixed it by inserting delay(10); in the loop. Strange. So if anyone else needs multiple touch sensors for their project, that would seem to be the solution.

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  • The Small Hadron Collider

    Try uploading the Blink sketch. Once it's finished uploading, scroll back through the lower pane of the Arduino IDE and find the last white line before the amber lines. This is the correct avrdude command to use, except for the hex file. Copy and paste the entire line (it goes off the right hand side of the window) into Notepad. Replace the hex file path (probably C:\Users\....\Blink.ino.hex) with SHC.hex. Copy and paste this into the command line. If you successfully uploaded Blink, the SHC should upload with thhat command. If not, double-check everything and study any error messages.

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  • The Small Hadron Collider

    Please don't hassle me - I'll reply as soon as I can. I suspect I'm in a different time zone to you.

    It looks like you may be using the wrong COM port. The correct one should only appear in Device Manager when you plug the Arduino in and disappear when you unplug it. My bed time now.

    A good question gets a good reply. In formulating your question you will often see the answer for yourself. But if you just say "it doesn't seem to work" then it's hard for me to help you.What happens when you try to upload the hex file? What response do you get to the commands you type? Do the error messages give you a clue? Did you read, understand and follow ALL the instructions?In Step 7, Instructables messed up one of the code boxes. In the box begining SET COM = COM10, where it's got <br> that should be a new line. I've fixed it but I'm not certain it'll stay fixed. I've had that trouble with Instructables before. So that box should read:set COM=COM10set ARDUINO=C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduinocd Downloadsdir(Make sure you follow the instructions in the preceding parag…

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    A good question gets a good reply. In formulating your question you will often see the answer for yourself. But if you just say "it doesn't seem to work" then it's hard for me to help you.What happens when you try to upload the hex file? What response do you get to the commands you type? Do the error messages give you a clue? Did you read, understand and follow ALL the instructions?In Step 7, Instructables messed up one of the code boxes. In the box begining SET COM = COM10, where it's got <br> that should be a new line. I've fixed it but I'm not certain it'll stay fixed. I've had that trouble with Instructables before. So that box should read:set COM=COM10set ARDUINO=C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduinocd Downloadsdir(Make sure you follow the instructions in the preceding paragraph.)And the command in the next code box should be all on one line.

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  • The Small Hadron Collider

    I'm sorry, but my projects are not the type you can brainlessly follow and end up with a clone of my prototype but rather I expect you to understand what's going on and learn something. It's not hard.You don't say what program you can't run. If it's the Arduino IDE there are plenty of Getting Started with Arduino tutorials and videos. I suggest you go through one of those before going any further.In terms of wiring it up, Steps 4 and 5 tell you exactly how to do that but the principles are simple. Each connection between modules in the diagram in Step 6 can consist of a wire or a copper strip or a combination. Yes, you could make all the connections just with wires (though you'd still have to cut the strips where they would make unwanted connections) but you get the neatest layout by usin…

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    I'm sorry, but my projects are not the type you can brainlessly follow and end up with a clone of my prototype but rather I expect you to understand what's going on and learn something. It's not hard.You don't say what program you can't run. If it's the Arduino IDE there are plenty of Getting Started with Arduino tutorials and videos. I suggest you go through one of those before going any further.In terms of wiring it up, Steps 4 and 5 tell you exactly how to do that but the principles are simple. Each connection between modules in the diagram in Step 6 can consist of a wire or a copper strip or a combination. Yes, you could make all the connections just with wires (though you'd still have to cut the strips where they would make unwanted connections) but you get the neatest layout by using the strips for the horizontal part of a connection and wires for the vertical part. In particular, it's convenient to dedicate 2 strips for Vcc and Gnd as several things connect to these.Good luck, and keep persevering - you'll get there in the end!

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  • The Small Hadron Collider

    Any WS2812 or compatible ring should do. Occasionally you might get a dead pixel so bargain basement from an unknown seller could be a false economy - your choice.

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  • The Small Hadron Collider

    Yes, you can use a Uno - it's practically the same except that it effectively has the FTDI (used for programming) built in.As for where to get parts, that depends what region you're in, but you should be able to get everything from eBay.

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  • p_leriche commented on p_leriche's instructable Zoom Control Box
    Zoom Control Box

    I'm sorry you're having so much trouble - it really shouldn't be that hard. Start simple: can you use the USBasp to upload a simple blink sketch to your Uno? If not, there's something wrong with the way you're trying to use the USBasp. If you can, double-, no, tripple-check the connections from the USBasp to the Pro Micro. Have you understood them correctly? Are your connections all good?

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  • Build a Better Raspberry Pi Power Button

    Hi -I'm afraid it's a while since I've looked at this project and it would take a little while for me to get back up to speed with it. First of all, look through other comments. I think the latest Raspbian (or later Raspberry Pis) behave slightly differently, which might affect it. You should at least get an idea from other comments on what to try.Another aproach would be to implement it on a cheap Arduino Nano (or Uno if you have one lying around) or an even cheaper Pro Mini if you have a FTDI adapter. You can modify the pins it uses by modifying the #define lines near the top of the sketch. If you then uncomment the Serial.begin and all the Serial.print statements and invoke the Arduino serial monitor it'll report the states it goes through.

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  • p_leriche commented on p_leriche's instructable Zoom Control Box
    Zoom Control Box

    That's encouraging. I thought it must do as there's a thing called the Elgato Stream Deck which does much the same and is marketed as an aid for OBS. But it's rather more complicated (and a lot more expensive!) with soft programmable buttons.Googling around I found this Twitch Switch which drives OBS. It uses a Teensy rather than a an Arduino Pro Micro, which is somewhat more expensive, and it allows you to change the functions of the buttons just with the buttons rather than reprogramming. But reprogamming is no big deal and doing it with the buttons is just as complicated in its own way.Googling for OBS button box throws up one or two similar solutions.

    Hi Julius - Unfortunately most of the Zoom functions are toggle functions, e.g. click to enable camera, click again to disable. And since the Zoom box has no way of knowing whether your camera is curently enabled or disabled it couldn't know which switch position was which. You could maybe somehow tell it which state it was starting off in but if you then were to disable (or enable) with the mouse, it'd immediately be out of step.The only exception I can immediately think of is gallery vs speaker view, since there are different hotkey combinations (Fn-F1 and Fn-F2) but again, if you used the switch to put yourself in gallery view then enabled speaker view with the mouse, you couldn't then use the switch to get back into gallery view as it would already be in the gallery view position!(You…

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    Hi Julius - Unfortunately most of the Zoom functions are toggle functions, e.g. click to enable camera, click again to disable. And since the Zoom box has no way of knowing whether your camera is curently enabled or disabled it couldn't know which switch position was which. You could maybe somehow tell it which state it was starting off in but if you then were to disable (or enable) with the mouse, it'd immediately be out of step.The only exception I can immediately think of is gallery vs speaker view, since there are different hotkey combinations (Fn-F1 and Fn-F2) but again, if you used the switch to put yourself in gallery view then enabled speaker view with the mouse, you couldn't then use the switch to get back into gallery view as it would already be in the gallery view position!(You might not be too hot on coding at the moment, but you learn by doing. And it's fun, and helps develop analytical thinking skills - very valuable.)

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  • p_leriche commented on p_leriche's instructable Zoom Control Box
    Zoom Control Box

    Absolutely, yes! I refer to my USB volume control, the code for which is included but disabled. The number of buttons you could add is limited by the number of pins on the Arduino Pro Micro, but you could add an i/o extender such as MCP23017 with a bit of extra coding giving you another 16, or you could go mad and add 2 of them for 32 buttons! (You can find Arduino libraries to make your job easier). Others have also discussed different functions for long and short presses.The only other thing to be aware of is whether a program you might want to control has a "global" mode for its hotkeys. Most programs (word processor, for example) only respond to the keyboard when the program is selected in the foreground, but Zoom allows you to define hot keys as global, meaning they are act…

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    Absolutely, yes! I refer to my USB volume control, the code for which is included but disabled. The number of buttons you could add is limited by the number of pins on the Arduino Pro Micro, but you could add an i/o extender such as MCP23017 with a bit of extra coding giving you another 16, or you could go mad and add 2 of them for 32 buttons! (You can find Arduino libraries to make your job easier). Others have also discussed different functions for long and short presses.The only other thing to be aware of is whether a program you might want to control has a "global" mode for its hotkeys. Most programs (word processor, for example) only respond to the keyboard when the program is selected in the foreground, but Zoom allows you to define hot keys as global, meaning they are acted upon whatever. I don't know whether OBS has that function.

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  • p_leriche commented on p_leriche's instructable Zoom Control Box
    Zoom Control Box

    Google has the answer to everything (practically)! Feeding it that error message ("Device was not migrated due to a partial or ambiguous match") indicates it's a device driver problem, possibly resulting from a Windows update. That search gives a few solutions in the general case, and should at least give you the tools you need.For your specific case I suggest you use Device Manager (as described in those solutions) to find and uninstall the errant device driver, then uninstall and reinstall the Arduino IDE.Good luck, and do report back and let us know how you get on.Best regards - Philip

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  • p_leriche commented on p_leriche's instructable Zoom Control Box
    Zoom Control Box

    Well done, and thank you for sharing your code - I'm sure it'll be useful for others considering making one of their own.

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  • Build a Better Raspberry Pi Power Button

    Thank you for documenting your work - that's fantastic and will definitely be helpful to people coming after. In particular, well done for creating a systemd service - systemd is often considered hard to get your head around. Did you find a good systemd guide?

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  • p_leriche commented on p_leriche's instructable Zoom Control Box
    Zoom Control Box

    Nice implementation - well done!

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  • How to Add an E-Ink Display to Your Project

    Hi Walter -A little while since I've looked at this code, but a few thoughts. The easiest way to increrase the thickness of the line is simply to draw 2 or more adjacent (or concentric). If you want it more than 2 or 3 pixels wide it'd be worth writing a function to do it by drawing all the adjacent lines in a loop. Or, you could draw a coloured circle and overlay it with a smaller uncoloured one. (A thick straight line is a coloured rectangle - easy!)If you want a semicircle you could maybe blank out the part you don't want with an uncoloured rectangle, or position it so that only half lies inside the paint object. But if you want it at an angle as you've drawn, I think you'd have to look at the source of the circle code, understand what it's doing, and modify it to do only the bit you w…

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    Hi Walter -A little while since I've looked at this code, but a few thoughts. The easiest way to increrase the thickness of the line is simply to draw 2 or more adjacent (or concentric). If you want it more than 2 or 3 pixels wide it'd be worth writing a function to do it by drawing all the adjacent lines in a loop. Or, you could draw a coloured circle and overlay it with a smaller uncoloured one. (A thick straight line is a coloured rectangle - easy!)If you want a semicircle you could maybe blank out the part you don't want with an uncoloured rectangle, or position it so that only half lies inside the paint object. But if you want it at an angle as you've drawn, I think you'd have to look at the source of the circle code, understand what it's doing, and modify it to do only the bit you want. A strong cup of coffee might help!Good luck - Philip

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  • Desktop Equinox Clock

    Me too (using DS3231). I've added a few refinements:- White dots for the 5 minute positions, brighter for the quarter hours. The 12 o'clock dot is yellow for am and magenta for pm and fainter white dots at 59 and 01 emphasise it.- The hour is constant red. The minute is green, dimming progressively from full to half brightness on odd seconds and the reverse on even. The second is blue and fades progressively from full to zero brightness on each second.- An MPU6150 accelerometer is used to determine which way up it is so as to adjust the whole display so that 12 o'clock is always at the top even if it's on its side or upside down.- 2 buttons allow time setting (though the DS3231 is extremely accurate).In fact it's a development of my Small Hadron Collider https://www.instructables.com/The-…

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    Me too (using DS3231). I've added a few refinements:- White dots for the 5 minute positions, brighter for the quarter hours. The 12 o'clock dot is yellow for am and magenta for pm and fainter white dots at 59 and 01 emphasise it.- The hour is constant red. The minute is green, dimming progressively from full to half brightness on odd seconds and the reverse on even. The second is blue and fades progressively from full to zero brightness on each second.- An MPU6150 accelerometer is used to determine which way up it is so as to adjust the whole display so that 12 o'clock is always at the top even if it's on its side or upside down.- 2 buttons allow time setting (though the DS3231 is extremely accurate).In fact it's a development of my Small Hadron Collider https://www.instructables.com/The-Small-Hadron-Col... and includes that code as well.

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  • p_leriche commented on p_leriche's instructable Zoom Control Box
    Zoom Control Box

    Thank you for your suggestion Katie. If I'd been aware of the buttons library at the time I might well have used it, but coding it youself is no big deal, epecially if you enjoy coding! That said, a buttons library is probably easier than modifying my code for what @bald_builder wants to do. (A few months ago I needed a library to drive 2 HC-SR04 ultrasonic modules, but after going through various libraries which didn't support more than one or didn't rigorously handle exception conditions I wrote my own in less time than I'd already spent on other peoples'!)

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  • How to Build Arduino Weighing Scales

    Autant que jesache il n’y en a pas, mais identifier les fils est très simple avec unmultimètre numérique comme je le décris. Si vous n’en a pas, va en acheter toutde suite ! L’un le plus bon marché fera parfaitement l’affaire.

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  • How to Service a Sewing Machine

    Hi Abigail -Without seeing it first hand it's difficult to advise you. Are you sure the belt is tight enough? Is the belt damaged in some way? If the wheel is crooked it needs to be straightened out, whether something has accidentally got bent, or mis-aligned in adjustment (or maybe in changing the belt). Your best bet is to take it to a professional sewing machine repairer.Good luck - a machine of that vintage should live practically for ever! - Philip

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  • The Small Hadron Collider

    Hi there - I believe it should work but I don't have a 9250 to try. Let me know how you get on. At worst, I might have to rebuild the firmware for you with an updated MPU library.

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  • Build a Better Raspberry Pi Power Button

    Glad you sorted it! Nice button, but I felt flashing 25% duty cycly for booting and 75% for shutting down was more intuitiv than fdifferent colours.Does yours now work? Looking back at the code it does seem that it expects TxD to go high within 50mS of signalling a boot request through SCL and that certainly worked for me. But I guess it could be 5 seconds before the kernel enables the TxD/RxD functions on pins 8 and 10 if the firmware hasn't already. In that case, you'd need to change the 50 on line 111 to a minimum of 6000.

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  • p_leriche commented on p_leriche's instructable Zoom Control Box
    Zoom Control Box

    Good thinking! You may well have to change the key sequences for Android, but if it doesn't work, reprogram it with the standard ones. You can then either give it away and gain a friend for life or offer it on eBay. With a bit of thought for the marketing I guess you'll have people falling over themselves for it!And don't forget to come back and report your results. Either way, it'll be useful for people coming after.

    Under Supplies, I recommend you use a Pro Micro - they're pretty cheap from far Eastern sources. The Pro Micro (and Leonardo) have built-in USB support, which the Uno lacks. However, a genuine Uno has an additional USB chip. There's a thing called HoodLoader2 (https://github.com/NicoHood/HoodLoader2/wiki) which makes it possible to upload your sketch to this instead. But it has fewer I/O pins, and you have to solder an additional pin header to your Uno even to get 7 of them. (A cheap knock-off may not have the solder pads for this, or even the additional chip.)If you want to go down this route you'll be blazing a trail, and will need to do a certain amount of your own research to make it work. Please report back if you get anywhere with it. But for the record, other cheap Arduinos such as…

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    Under Supplies, I recommend you use a Pro Micro - they're pretty cheap from far Eastern sources. The Pro Micro (and Leonardo) have built-in USB support, which the Uno lacks. However, a genuine Uno has an additional USB chip. There's a thing called HoodLoader2 (https://github.com/NicoHood/HoodLoader2/wiki) which makes it possible to upload your sketch to this instead. But it has fewer I/O pins, and you have to solder an additional pin header to your Uno even to get 7 of them. (A cheap knock-off may not have the solder pads for this, or even the additional chip.)If you want to go down this route you'll be blazing a trail, and will need to do a certain amount of your own research to make it work. Please report back if you get anywhere with it. But for the record, other cheap Arduinos such as the Pro Mini and the Nano don't have the required extra chip so this approach won't work.

    Yes, any Arduino needs something to interface to the PC via USB. On some, such as your Uno on the right, it's a dedicated USB-serial converter chip, usually an FT232 or CH340. The 16 pin (if I can count) chip next to the USB socket on that Uno will almost certainly have one of those markings on it. The Nano uses the same chip but the Pro Mini doesn't have one at all, and you have to supply your own separate FTDI adapter (containing an FT232). Hence the Pro Mini is the cheapest Arduino variant, once you've invested a few pounds in the adapter. Any time I need another Arduino I generally order 3 of those since they're so cheap.However, your Uno on the left uses a general purpose processor chip, programmed to carry out the same function (the little square chip). In fact, the chip used is the…

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    Yes, any Arduino needs something to interface to the PC via USB. On some, such as your Uno on the right, it's a dedicated USB-serial converter chip, usually an FT232 or CH340. The 16 pin (if I can count) chip next to the USB socket on that Uno will almost certainly have one of those markings on it. The Nano uses the same chip but the Pro Mini doesn't have one at all, and you have to supply your own separate FTDI adapter (containing an FT232). Hence the Pro Mini is the cheapest Arduino variant, once you've invested a few pounds in the adapter. Any time I need another Arduino I generally order 3 of those since they're so cheap.However, your Uno on the left uses a general purpose processor chip, programmed to carry out the same function (the little square chip). In fact, the chip used is the little brother (or sister, if you prefer) of the USB-capable chip in the ProMicro or Leonardo! So the HoodLoader2 hack simply programs this, leaving the main processor chip unused. So you could then pull out the main processor from its socket, or saw off the whole of that end of the board if you were feeling in a destructive mood.In order to use HoodLoader2 I think you'll need an AVR ISP programmer. That might cost you more nearly as much as a Pro Micro, but in fact you can program your other UNO to do the same. Google for Arduino as ISP, or check out ArduinoISP under Examples in the Arduino IDE.I hope that makes it clear.

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  • Build a Better Raspberry Pi Power Button

    There's not much activity expected on TxD. It should be low when the Pi is shut down (even with power still applied) and should be largely high when running, though will oscillate if it generates serial console messages. Double check - correction - triple check you're looking at the right pin and that the Serial interface is enabled. We all make unbelievably dumb mistakes. It might be worth getting a cheap Pi Zero to see if it's any different, or an FTDI serial to USB adapter and seeing if you can detect the console messages. (Make sure it's a 3.3v one or the jumper is in the 3.3v position. Connect TxD to RxD and vice versa, and Gnd to Gnd. On a PC you can use PuTTy or Arduino Monitor to watch the serial port.)

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  • p_leriche commented on p_leriche's instructable Zoom Control Box
    Zoom Control Box

    Thanks for sharing that - a really nice build. Having got into Arduino I'm sure it'll be no time at all before you find a way of using it with your students, and a few things of your own you can automate!Would you mind sharing where you sourced the buttons or how to find them online, and what's involved in customising them? I'm thinking I might try and build a Bluetooth version, which would be rather cool. But I'll probably add another 2 or 3 buttons and the volume control.

    Hi Joe -According to this article https://support.zoom.us/hc/en-us/articles/2056838... the iOS Zoom client supports a limited number of keyboard short cuts which, in principle, you could use. But you'd need a USB to lightning adapter (or maybe to USB-C) which might work. If you can get one and plug a USB keyboard into it, and if the keyboard short cuts work with the keyboard then my box should work - having adapted the hot key sequences.That support article doesn't mention Android, but if the Android client supports hot keys then interfacing to a micro-USB or USB-C sockt on an Android tablet should be straightforward.

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  • p_leriche commented on p_leriche's instructable Zoom Control Box
    Zoom Control Box

    Yeah, very funny. But don't try that sort of trick on adults or anyone who's not part of your close group of friends or you'll get yourself into trouble. But if you use it to learn about Arduino then try a few projects of your own then you'll have some real fun, and not risk upsetting anyone.

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  • LED Chaser Circuit Without IC

    Very neat and most ingenious, but I think you miss a brilliant opportunity to teach people a bit about electronics by not giving a circuit diagram or an explanation of how it works.

    A circuit diagram to accompany the explanation in the introduction would be really helpful for those who want to learn something from this rather than just making a cool toy.

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  • Step Up Your Zoom Presentations With Open Broadcast Software (OBS)

    Very useful introduction to OBS - thank you. I've been wondering for a while what it did and whether it could help me. I have one or two questions though. Sorry to be lazy - I could probably figure out most of them for myself but maybe you can save me the time if the answers are quick.1. How heavy is it on CPU and RAM? The laptop I use is a fairly average busines class device around 5 years old (Lenovo T430). Zoom can soak up a LOT of CPU cycles. I'm thinking that adding OBS might max it out.2. If you want to capture video from mutiple programs, do they all have to be un-minimised (fine if you have multiple monitors but not so much on a laptop). Or can OBS create multiple virtual screens that you can maximise them onto?3. I presume it can take input from an IP camera, but I have no experi…

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    Very useful introduction to OBS - thank you. I've been wondering for a while what it did and whether it could help me. I have one or two questions though. Sorry to be lazy - I could probably figure out most of them for myself but maybe you can save me the time if the answers are quick.1. How heavy is it on CPU and RAM? The laptop I use is a fairly average busines class device around 5 years old (Lenovo T430). Zoom can soak up a LOT of CPU cycles. I'm thinking that adding OBS might max it out.2. If you want to capture video from mutiple programs, do they all have to be un-minimised (fine if you have multiple monitors but not so much on a laptop). Or can OBS create multiple virtual screens that you can maximise them onto?3. I presume it can take input from an IP camera, but I have no experience of these. Can you use any old anonymous brand one from China, or does it need to conform to certain standards? Does it capture video direct from the camera, or screenscrape a window from a driver that comes from the camera?You mention StreamDeck but I guess my Zoom Control Box (https://www.instructables.com/Zoom-Control-Box/) would do the same, except that it seems you can dynamically program the buttons and the images on their individual mini LCDs. It seems to emulate a keyboard and generate hot key sequences, but what if the target program doesn't have the focus? Does it have a magic way of directing keystrokes to a program, even if minimised?I hope you don't mind me picking your brains but learning from other people can save a lot of time which you can then use more productively. And thank you again for a clear and concise Instructable.Best regards - Philip

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  • Build a Better Raspberry Pi Power Button

    Have you enabled Serial in raspi-config under Interfacing?

    Have you enabled Serial in raspi-config under Interfacing? It won't detect power-off from the TX pin otherwise.

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  • How to Clean Sticky Rubber

    IPA didn’t work for me on a pair of Canon binoculars - it just turned the rubber into an even stickier mess. I used paint stripper - you DEFINITELY need rubber gloves and have to be very careful where it goes (I covered the lenses with cling film) but it works. IPA is ok for a final clean. Don’t expect a quick job though. And don’t worry about it on electronics - it’s the standard electronics cleaner!

    IPA didn’t work for me on a pair of Canon binoculars - it just turned the rubber into an even stickier mess. I used paint stripper - you DEFINITELY need rubber gloves and have to be very careful where it goes (I covered the lenses with cling film) but it works. Don’t expect a quick job though.

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  • p_leriche commented on p_leriche's instructable Zoom Control Box
    Zoom Control Box

    This is very strange. It works for many other people so there must be somthing very simple wrong. Try re-downloading the code. Maybe your cat trod on your keyboard wile you weren't looking. Very likely that would cause a compilation error but not necessarily. If it's still the same, change the #if 1 on line 176 to #if 0. With Notepad open it should generate digits 0 - 5 for the 6 buttons. This will confirm whether all buttons are really activating case 0.It could be you've got a faulty Arduino. If you Google a bit you should be able to find a sketch to test the pins. This one looks promising though I've only glanced at it: https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=27533.0

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  • p_leriche commented on p_leriche's instructable Zoom Control Box
    Zoom Control Box

    It sounds to me like you've got a wiring error. Each button when pressed should connect one of the pins 8, 9, 10, A0, A1, A2 to ground. If you have a multimeter, check the voltages on each of those pins. It should drop from 5V to zero as you press its button, but should be inaffected is you press any of the other buttons.

    I'm not sure I understand you. You say only case 0 works but it can be activated with all buttons. So what do the other buttos do? You mention Step 5. So have you modified the code?

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  • p_leriche commented on p_leriche's instructable Zoom Control Box
    Zoom Control Box

    Certainly, what this guy does is interesting, but from the readme it appears that he's not using the Zoom SDK at all. He's simply searching through the windows electronically for one with the right name, then extracting status text from the buttons. In principle, that information could then be fed to the zoom control box via a com port. But he also lists a couple of significant limitations: it takes a couple of seconds to sift through the windows (and I suspect maybe more if Zoom is hogging much of theCPU), and it doesn't work for some Zoom window configurations such as if the Zoom control window is docked (not quite sure what he means by that - maybe if the Zoom controls are hidden).

    A good approach, but the limitation in practice is that very often it'll be the host who mutes and unmutes you in Zoom. But if you're the host, then fine!

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  • Adjustable Gripping Hitch

    The Book of Knots by Budworth & Dalton lists 200 practical knots, but not this one as far as I can see.

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  • Upgrade Your $3 Bluetooth Module to Have HID Firmware

    Zadig doesn't appear to have a means of restoring the original driver. Having installed libusbK the FTDI was no longer recognised as a com port and I couldn't use it to program an Arduino. Also, my USB volume control and caps lock led no longer worked (https://www.instructables.com/USB-Volume-Control-and-Caps-Lock-LED-Simple-Cheap-/). Nothing I did with Zadig would fix it. I even did a Windows restore to a restore point a few days ago to no effect. Looking at the Zadig documentation it suggested uninstalling the device with Device Manager. This didn't work either. Windows was rejecting both the FTDI and my USB vol ctrl as unknown devices. I was getting desperate by this point and was ready to do an in-place Windows reinstallation. Finally, with neither connected, I selected "View hid…

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    Zadig doesn't appear to have a means of restoring the original driver. Having installed libusbK the FTDI was no longer recognised as a com port and I couldn't use it to program an Arduino. Also, my USB volume control and caps lock led no longer worked (https://www.instructables.com/USB-Volume-Control-and-Caps-Lock-LED-Simple-Cheap-/). Nothing I did with Zadig would fix it. I even did a Windows restore to a restore point a few days ago to no effect. Looking at the Zadig documentation it suggested uninstalling the device with Device Manager. This didn't work either. Windows was rejecting both the FTDI and my USB vol ctrl as unknown devices. I was getting desperate by this point and was ready to do an in-place Windows reinstallation. Finally, with neither connected, I selected "View hidden devices" in device manager, and uninstalled the several unknown devices, checking the Delete driver option. Now at last the FTDI was recognised and could once again talk to an Arduino Pro Mini, but the USB vol ctl was still holding out. This uses an Arduino Pro Micro. Eventually, by holding it reset while plugging it in and recompiling the sketch I got the Arduino IDE to recognise it and reprogram it. Phew! What a palava. The hours I've wasted :-(

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  • Upgrade Your $3 Bluetooth Module to Have HID Firmware

    I get to Step 9 and look for a source for RN-42.xpv and I find they all point either to a corrupt ZIP file, or to a .xpv file that Blueflash refuses to open. On the 4th page of Google results I came across a Vietnamese site containg a RAR file, but again, Blueflash refused to open the rn42.xpv file within.If anyone has a good copy in their back pocket perhaps they wouldn't mind messaging me.The Blueflash I obtainedsome while ago claims to be 2.6.6.13.11 Release.

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  • p_leriche commented on p_leriche's instructable Zoom Control Box
    Zoom Control Box

    Thank you - that's interesting. To combine that with Zoom hotkeys the Arduino would need to create 2 USB end points, one a pseudo keyboard for my functions, and the other, a com port for yours. Is this possible through the single USB connection? You might have to use a different USSB library to the one I use.

    Please correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks to me as if this SDK allows you to create your own Zoom client which would show up as another meeting participant, rather than control the muting on an existing participant using the standard Zoom client app, even if on the same device.

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  • p_leriche commented on p_leriche's instructable Zoom Control Box
    Zoom Control Box

    At the top of your screenshot it's bleating about an error on line 98. It looks like the version of Arduino I'm using (1.8.13) is more tolerant than yours. Cange the #ifdef to #if and see if that fixes it. I'll update the ZoomButtons.ino file in Step 3 in just a moment.

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  • How to Make a Solar Powered Cat House Out of a 19 Gallon Tote

    I'd have thought a bit more ventilation would be needed if the cat isn't to wake up with a headache.A couple of years ago when my daughter brought her dog home with her for Christmas (the cat was NOT pleased!) I simply put the cat carrier in the greenhouse. He likes the greenhouse, especially on a sunny day. For insulation I simply covered it with an old blanket and cut polystyene ceiling tiles for the floor, with an old towell on top.For a bit of warmth on a frost night I got some resistance wire, and calcuated the length to give 10 - 15W with a 12V supply. I stapled this to a plumber's heat-resistant cloth and folded it over so the wire was inside. I supplied it from a 12V 1A wallcube in the garage and ran a cable from there to the greenhouse. It seemed to give just enough warmth to mak…

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    I'd have thought a bit more ventilation would be needed if the cat isn't to wake up with a headache.A couple of years ago when my daughter brought her dog home with her for Christmas (the cat was NOT pleased!) I simply put the cat carrier in the greenhouse. He likes the greenhouse, especially on a sunny day. For insulation I simply covered it with an old blanket and cut polystyene ceiling tiles for the floor, with an old towell on top.For a bit of warmth on a frost night I got some resistance wire, and calcuated the length to give 10 - 15W with a 12V supply. I stapled this to a plumber's heat-resistant cloth and folded it over so the wire was inside. I supplied it from a 12V 1A wallcube in the garage and ran a cable from there to the greenhouse. It seemed to give just enough warmth to make it very comfortable.

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  • p_leriche commented on p_leriche's instructable Zoom Control Box
    Zoom Control Box

    See paragraph 6 of Step 3 (If you don't see SparkFun AVR Boards...) Did you do this?

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  • p_leriche commented on p_leriche's instructable Zoom Control Box
    Zoom Control Box

    I frequently look foolish when I'm juggling several programs on a single laptop screen, but our church congregation is very grateful that I took the time to master the technology, so they're very understanding.

    Nice one!The code should be fairly clean if you make the outer switch statement the one that switches on the mode. I've effectively done this with the #if 1 statement, which, if you change it to #if 0, switches to printable characters for testing.Alternatively, you could create a 2-dimensional array with the mode and button number as indexes. Each element would point to a zero-terminated list of key codes, negated for key-release. Unfortunately the key codes aren't integers but enumeration constants, which makes it a bit harder.

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  • How to Build Arduino Weighing Scales

    Brilliant - well done! I do like the cardboard box - you are a true engineer at heart!How about writing your own Instructable to describe how you added the display?

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  • Fibreoptic Christmas Tree Upgrade

    You mean the unmodified tree with motor and coloured disk? Just search online for small fibre optic christmas tree.

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  • p_leriche commented on p_leriche's instructable Zoom Control Box
    Zoom Control Box

    A beautiful piece of work - well done! Unfortunately I don't have access to such tools. I deliberately put the more dangerous buttons on the top row where I was less likely to press them by mistake.

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