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Glad you could figure it out!I changed the time variable at some point and didn't update the comment.I hope your board works once the connector arrives ;-)
Hey,Great, that you're enjoying the project!The program simply joins the configured WiFi and updates the time via NTP. After that the ESP keeps track of the time internally and therefore the WiFi is turned off again. If you uncomment the Serial print line in the updateTime function it should print out the local time every 2 seconds. Otherwise it just sends the update to the display. On a dev board without the display it won't do much.Let me know if that helped.Best wishes.
Hey, did you have a look at the GitHub page? There should be everything you need.Let me know if something is unclear.
Hey Don,The page on PCBWay is unfortunately not from me. I hope they use the recent Gerber files from GitHub. Nevertheless, let be know if you run into any trouble.Best wishes,Patrick
Hey,Cool that you plan on making one! For the resistors, most of them should be fine with 5% tolerance, just the 3.3V Step-Up sense resistors should be 1% so the voltage output is within spec. The capacitors for the 24V rail should be 50V to give a little headroom and otherwise 20% (standard precision for X7R, X5R) on decoupling capacitors is more than enough. However the price difference for low quantity is not that large so it may be easier to just by 1% resistors and 50V caps if you're unsure.Hope that helps!Best wishes,Patrick
Hey!They are just for aesthetics so NPTH is just fine for mounting a strap or similar. I haven't been able to get slot plating with JLCPCB to work, but if you find out what changes need to be made I'd be happy to update the files.Best wishesPatrick
Yes, I initially designed them to set the time or start functions, however opted to do it via NTP. Nevertheless, you can program them to do anything else.
Try moving the "Vfd_Display.h" and "Vfd_Display.cpp" files into a folder called "Vfd_Display" where the Arduino libraries are. Otherwise the Arduino IDE may have trouble loading the files in the correct order.Let me know if that works.
Nice!I used to add a bit of solder on both the sides of the ground pad and heat it from the bottom with a soldering iron. However, in the datasheet of the wroom module it says, that the ground pad is not needed, so I'd suggest to just ignore it. I haven't had any issues on boards without the ground pad connected.
Hey Alexander,Sorry for the late reply!I answered your PM. Let me know if you have any problems.
Great! I think the NTP server always just return the UTC time and the offset is calculated via the string, so the server shouldn't matter much. The latency may however be better if you choose one closer to you.
No worries, it's easy to compile it with the Arduino IDE.All you need are the files in the Code/src folder. The contents of the 'main.cpp' is what you paste in your Arduino project. The remaining files go in your Arduino library folder within a folder called "Vfd_Display". The 'Password_example.h' is a template for your Wifi credentials, that should be renamed to 'Password.h'. You probably have to install the 'Adafruit-MCP23017' and 'OneButton' library via the Arduino IDE as well, but then it should compile.Let me know if you have any issues.
Yes, the MP3120 will act as a linear regulator above Vcc input voltages. In the V1.0 I just had a voltage sense line from the battery directly to the ESP32 to check the battery level, but with a lithium cell at 4.2V this could have damaged the it. The V1.1 has a voltage divider to mitigate this. Just make sure to get a 14500 cell with build in protection as the circuit would drain the battery below its minimum charge voltage.
Nice! Looking forward to yours!
Using a LED Matrix As a Scanner
Thanks!The holder is from this store here:https://shop.3dservisas.eu/collections/tools/products/multifunctional-pcb-holding-jig?variant=4510939906075
No worries, I'm happy to help.The RS-274 format is an older version for gerbers and the other one is the X2 version. Someone asked for them a couple days ago. Both should work with most manufacturers.Yeah, the comment can't hurt, JLCPCB usually asks again if something is unclear. If you order via Oshpark you can also upload the '.kicad_pcb' file directly and it will convert it.
Not that I’m aware of, but it looks very good. Will have a read through it, thanks!
I'm glad you like it! That's why I made I open source. If you need any help or more details let me know and I'll try to help.Yes, the strap holes were supposed to be routed out, but I didn't follow up on them as I wanted to get the boards done for a conference. I guess one needs to tell the PCB house that the slots should be plated and (at least for JLCPCB) they need to be marked on the edge cuts layer, which I didn't do. I updated the design and gerbers just now, but I'd suggest you add that you want slot plating in the comment section of your order too.The boards in the pictures were gold plated, ENIG-RoHS is the option for that. They are also with a glossy black solder mask, however JLCPCB recently changed the black color option to a matt finish (looks also fancy imo). Most components …
I'm glad you like it! That's why I made I open source. If you need any help or more details let me know and I'll try to help.Yes, the strap holes were supposed to be routed out, but I didn't follow up on them as I wanted to get the boards done for a conference. I guess one needs to tell the PCB house that the slots should be plated and (at least for JLCPCB) they need to be marked on the edge cuts layer, which I didn't do. I updated the design and gerbers just now, but I'd suggest you add that you want slot plating in the comment section of your order too.The boards in the pictures were gold plated, ENIG-RoHS is the option for that. They are also with a glossy black solder mask, however JLCPCB recently changed the black color option to a matt finish (looks also fancy imo). Most components were sourced from Arrow.com and lcsc.com in case you don't find everything on Mouser.Good luck!
Thanks! Yes the battery runtime is very short on an alkaline cell as the VFD need quite a bit of power. The design also works with a 14500 lithium cell (just keep in mind to use one with build in protection circuit) for 6-8 hours if the display is constantly on. If everything is in deep sleep the battery lasts more than a month as far as I can tell. But you can also power it through USB as long as there is no battery installed.
It just needs a watch band, but I haven't gotten around to making one yet.Ideally I'd like to make it also from leather.
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