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  • Retro 7 Segment Clock - the Final One(s)

    Hi,thanks, hope you're making good progress :)Yes, I've removed the bottom layers. Depending on the slicer you're using this can be a bit different. My current favorite - PrusaSlicer - is the worst at this, as far as I can tell right now. Somehow I don't fully understand how bottom/top layers and infill are calculated there when using modifiers. And you can't define multiple infill angles in PS, let's see if this gets added at some point.Simplify3D is easy, using two processes there - one for 0mm - 0.25mm and a second one for 0.25mm - end.Haven't used Cura in a while, but if I remember correctly you could simply set bottom layers to 0 and adjust top layers to your likings. But depending on the object there's an advanced option somewhere, which defines how "deep" top layers start…

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    Hi,thanks, hope you're making good progress :)Yes, I've removed the bottom layers. Depending on the slicer you're using this can be a bit different. My current favorite - PrusaSlicer - is the worst at this, as far as I can tell right now. Somehow I don't fully understand how bottom/top layers and infill are calculated there when using modifiers. And you can't define multiple infill angles in PS, let's see if this gets added at some point.Simplify3D is easy, using two processes there - one for 0mm - 0.25mm and a second one for 0.25mm - end.Haven't used Cura in a while, but if I remember correctly you could simply set bottom layers to 0 and adjust top layers to your likings. But depending on the object there's an advanced option somewhere, which defines how "deep" top layers start inside, sometimes creating multiple infill zones within a single layer.You might want to have a look at the Instructable for the Quick Build Edition. I've added some Cura project files there in the past, in case you want to have a look. I think it was set up using rectilinear infill on the 1st layer and fuzzy skin for the outermost walls...

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  • ClockSketch V7 - Part I

    Thanks for the kind words and thanks for posting some pictures! The sketch got a bit "massive" when adding the optional ESP8266 things - sometimes I wonder if going back to Arduino online just might make things much, much easier.... ^^Haven't seen a TIX Clock before, it does take a moment to read it. :D

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  • ClockSketch V7 - Part I

    Ja, der Schorsch kommt aus Deutschland :-). Allerdings nicht aus dem Süden sondern so ziemlich aus dem Norden (nördlich von HH), irgendwie hat sich das mitm dem "Schorsch" in den Benutzernamen so eingebürgert.....Über Nord/Süd hab ich mir ehrlich gesagt gar keine Gedanken gemacht, dass "Schorsch" im Norden nicht so gebräuchlich sein könnte kam mir daher nie in den Sinn :DNördlich von HH ist aber echt nördlich... ^^But maybe english is better in order that everyone understands the discussions :-).Agreed. Although I have to admit I sometimes wonder how many people really read through comments. I mean... there's sometimes people asking the same stuff just right next to an answered comment.... xDI had a look at the source you provided. I think getting rid of the input stuf…

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    Ja, der Schorsch kommt aus Deutschland :-). Allerdings nicht aus dem Süden sondern so ziemlich aus dem Norden (nördlich von HH), irgendwie hat sich das mitm dem "Schorsch" in den Benutzernamen so eingebürgert.....Über Nord/Süd hab ich mir ehrlich gesagt gar keine Gedanken gemacht, dass "Schorsch" im Norden nicht so gebräuchlich sein könnte kam mir daher nie in den Sinn :DNördlich von HH ist aber echt nördlich... ^^But maybe english is better in order that everyone understands the discussions :-).Agreed. Although I have to admit I sometimes wonder how many people really read through comments. I mean... there's sometimes people asking the same stuff just right next to an answered comment.... xDI had a look at the source you provided. I think getting rid of the input stuff on top of void loop() will clean things up a bit. You can then go ahead and take the things for button 1/2 as a template and add something very simple like:if ( lastInput == 4 ) { if ( clock_mode <= 4 ) clock_mode++; else clock_mode = 0;}this would increase clock_mode until reaching 5 and then reset to 0 each time the button returning 4 (see previous post) is pressed.Another thing you'd likely want to change:Right now the gym display is inside the if (doUpdate) part. This will only be executed if either a new second from the RTC is reported or the interval to change colors has been reached (750ms by default). I'd suggest changing the if (doUpdate) statement so it's only executed whenyou want to run the clock in normal mode, something likeif ( doUpdate && clock_mode == 0 ) {stuff in here will only be executed if there's an update to do AND clock_mode is 0}(assuming clock_mode = 0 is used to display regular time without gym timer).Then add another if clause right below handling all your gym timer needs:if ( clock_mode != 0 ) {stuff in here will only happen when clock_mode is anything BUT 0}This way your gym timer is redrawn every time the main loop is executed, not only if the RTC or color change interval force an update. And all the coloring andoptional brightness adjustments/fading at the end of the loop should keep working.Have fun,Daniel

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  • ClockSketch V7 - Part I

    Oh, completely forgot about this. But maybe you'd like to have a look at the comments from my "The Final One(s)" Instructable. I remember someone using it as training clock, don't remember the details....Also there's some WLED mods out there which people have done, maybe that's an alternative you might want to have a look at.

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  • Retro 7 Segment Clock - the Final One(s)

    Hey,sorry it took so long. But on your picture I just completely didn't realize it was thescrew hole, not one of the inner screws I could see there slightly. Finally the part hasbeen re-uploaded, so this is "fixed".

    Hi,thanks for pointing that out! On the picture I didn't see the offset, it looked to me like the hole was above "nothing" - so I assumed they were swapped left/right..I have no idea how I managed to do that. As the picture in my post suggests it does fit - but somehow I ended up uploading a file that doesn't. Thanks for your remixed cover, I've fixed the one for the XL edition and re-uploaded it a few minutes ago.Interestingly the holes in the CAD design lined up perfectly, I'm still struggling tounderstand where I messed things up... xD

    Thanks for posting! While it's visible without glasses I don't recommend putting100+ LEDs into the bed room! ;)))

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  • ClockSketch V7 - Part I

    Yes, "time" will be used as a keyword when searching through the libraries - this doesreturn a lot of results. But I just searched for it, there's only one library named"Time" like mentioned in step 2 in the results, doesn't this one show up for you?

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  • ClockSketch V7 - Part I

    lol... that's a lot of clocks. Be careful, it starts looking close to the place where I store all those things... ;-DFading was something mentioned often over the past. While working on it Iadded the "500ms and off"-test, remembered your post and simply let it in asmode "1", while "2" will fade the dots in and out. v7.2 is already uploaded, ifthis Instructable doesn't show the update on top, try Shift+Reload inside yourwebbrowser - caching might show you the old version.Alarm isn't something I had on my list so far. I wasn't sure how to implementit properly - using the RTC internal alarms for this or based on the sketch,in case people aren't using a RTC... using the alarm interrupt might also causetrouble on Arduino/WS2812 combinations.Also I'm not really sur…

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    lol... that's a lot of clocks. Be careful, it starts looking close to the place where I store all those things... ;-DFading was something mentioned often over the past. While working on it Iadded the "500ms and off"-test, remembered your post and simply let it in asmode "1", while "2" will fade the dots in and out. v7.2 is already uploaded, ifthis Instructable doesn't show the update on top, try Shift+Reload inside yourwebbrowser - caching might show you the old version.Alarm isn't something I had on my list so far. I wasn't sure how to implementit properly - using the RTC internal alarms for this or based on the sketch,in case people aren't using a RTC... using the alarm interrupt might also causetrouble on Arduino/WS2812 combinations.Also I'm not really sure if this would work without adding a 3rd/4th button... the same reasons why I never really considered adding a timer/countdown.The sketch already includes most of the things required. Getting input for setting time/alarm could be reused, triggering things at certain times is also included (ntp sync, example of time dependent coloring etc.), the button readout already supports more than 2 buttons... I'm just not convinced it's a good idea to add this, sorry ^^I will probably spend more time trying to get some other things finished. This one has been lying around for ages now... like Lazy Grid, just much smaller (5x17 and maybe 7x25)...

    "I would now like to make the second flasher light every second for half a second"From v7.2 on Enabling FADING, setting dotsBlinkining = false and fadeDots = 1 should do exactly that.

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  • Retro 7 Segment Clock - the Final One(s)

    RtcDateTime tmp2 = Rtc.GetDateTime().Epoch32Time();(where is my error) thnksAmazing. Did you notice your comment doesn't make any sense?Posting a single line out of a sketch from a different Instructable without any explanationwhy and what you're doing... do you really expect anyone to know what you're talking about?Thankfully my crystal ball is broken, so I don't have to look into this...

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  • ClockSketch V7 - Part I

    I had downloaded your Tiny Edition code in early March but the array is different to the one that is there now (different numbers inside brackets in the led assignment section).Not very likely. Changes to the TE-Sketch in March (v7 -> v7.1) only affected lines #1, #3, #163 and had it's major changes starting from line #964. Lines #164 - #963 are identical, I checked this looking at the february snapshots. If the arrays were different on the previous sketch that'd mean it wouldn't have worked at all on the old clock design... and with plenty of downloads/month for the TE I am pretty sure somebody would have noticed this.I would now like to make the second flasher light every second for half a second but your code is way too complicated for me, I'm more in to 3D printing and I am trying …

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    I had downloaded your Tiny Edition code in early March but the array is different to the one that is there now (different numbers inside brackets in the led assignment section).Not very likely. Changes to the TE-Sketch in March (v7 -> v7.1) only affected lines #1, #3, #163 and had it's major changes starting from line #964. Lines #164 - #963 are identical, I checked this looking at the february snapshots. If the arrays were different on the previous sketch that'd mean it wouldn't have worked at all on the old clock design... and with plenty of downloads/month for the TE I am pretty sure somebody would have noticed this.I would now like to make the second flasher light every second for half a second but your code is way too complicated for me, I'm more in to 3D printing and I am trying to learn the coding now. Can you please tell me how I speed up the second flasher so I can finish my clock ?Not sure how this is going to work. I'm not good at french, could you tell me how to change a certain chapter in this book? It's in french and I didn't read it...Have a closer look at the main loop(). You'll notice there's only if/else-statements. Unless there's a new second reported from the RTC there's not updates to the displayed content except colorization. Seconds/dots are turned on even seconds, turned off on odd seconds. You will have to add something to the main loop to:1. notify you when there's a new second (or use "doUpdate", which indicates exactly that)2. keep track of the time since this happened3. turn off the LEDs after xxx milliseconds4. reset your indicator/variableAlso you will have to remove the if-statement at the end of displayTime() so the dots light up at each second, not only the even ones. Or add this to the main loop, that's more personal preference where to put it...Avoid using delay() for things like this. It will break button readouts/timings and...ESP8266 version is next on my list.... on ESPs it will eventually trigger the watchdog at some point.

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  • ClockSketch V7 - Part I

    Hi,thanks for "moving" this thread. That's a nice looking mod there!If you're trying to adapt ClockSketch v7 to the 1 LED/segment version, have a look at the sketch for the "Tiny Edition (-TE)". That one is using 1 LED/segment,so there's just a few numbers to replace for your design, LEDAccessMode etc. will already fit. Also have a look at line #55, there's a thing called "CUSTOMHELPER". If youenable this you can check the LED assignments. Just recorded this yesterday, hopefully attaching MP4 files to comments does work... ^^

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  • Retro 7 Segment Clock - the Final One(s)

    Hi!Would you mind posting this to the ClockSketch-Instructable? I'd like to add avideo to my answer but it's more related to the sketch than to this Instructable.I can't move threads between my own Instructables... ^^I'll answer immediately, thanks!

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  • ClockSketch V7 - Part I

    Hi,Now only figure out how the night mode works, because if I change it from false to true, the light just switches off, when under limit LDR.Hmmm.... is it possible you're using a much lower value than 30 for minBrightness?If so, try raising the brightness for this one:const uint8_t nightColor[2] = { 0, 70 };0 = red, 70 = brightness. Set 70 to ~150 and see if things reappear again... ^^Note: In night mode color dithering will be disabled to avoid flickering. But this also means some mixed colors can't be drawn properly - try red, green or blue. Linkto the description of HSV/color wheel is inside the sketch.

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  • ClockSketch V7 - Part I

    Hi Ruud,not sure which sketch you're using, line numbers may be off by a few lines. But I guess you're trying to set this one:const uint8_t brightnessLevels[3] {80, 150, 240};(3 values, index 0-2)That's the 3 brightness levels one can select when there's no LDR connected. If thereis one, those three values will be the maximum brightness allowed.Roughly 30-40 lines above in the sketch you should find the more relevant variables for customizing the LDR actions:Important ones are:uint8_t upperLimitLDR = 180; uint8_t lowerLimitLDR = 50;uint8_t minBrightness = 30;Assuming the clock is set to brightnessLevel[2] (240), the value read fromthe LDR will be used if:It is lower than 180 - otherwise the clock will switch to maximum (240).It is higher than 50 - otherwise the clock will switch to minBri…

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    Hi Ruud,not sure which sketch you're using, line numbers may be off by a few lines. But I guess you're trying to set this one:const uint8_t brightnessLevels[3] {80, 150, 240};(3 values, index 0-2)That's the 3 brightness levels one can select when there's no LDR connected. If thereis one, those three values will be the maximum brightness allowed.Roughly 30-40 lines above in the sketch you should find the more relevant variables for customizing the LDR actions:Important ones are:uint8_t upperLimitLDR = 180; uint8_t lowerLimitLDR = 50;uint8_t minBrightness = 30;Assuming the clock is set to brightnessLevel[2] (240), the value read fromthe LDR will be used if:It is lower than 180 - otherwise the clock will switch to maximum (240).It is higher than 50 - otherwise the clock will switch to minBrightness (30).Set this one to true:const bool dbgLDR = false;And have a look at the serial monitor output to see what values your LDR isreporting. You can use this one to adjust the range a bit in case it's completely a bit too high or too low:float factorLDR = 1.0;

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  • Retro 7 Segment Clock - the Final One(s)

    Thanks for posting, glad you like it :)

    Thank you for posting a make/picture, hope you're still happy with it :)

    Hm? You mean the covers on the back?The final covers should clip/snap fit into place - if this doesn't work as expected you can use additional 3 screws (M3, min. 5mm - max. 7mm) to hold them in place.(Step 9)I didn't want to add another 3-4mm depth to the clock, the holes are more a "backup" in case the snap fit doesn't work... ^^

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  • Retro 7 Segment Clock - the Final One(s)

    "hi, how to add slow fade out?"where to change the function?"It'd be helpful if you tried to explain what you're trying to do, what you've done so far and where you need help. First you wanted to add fading, now you want to change some function. Without telling us which one, why and what your goal is.Also it'd be great to know how it is related to this Instructable.

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  • S7ripClock - Basic Edition

    "Does the big have more LEDs per segment or is it just based on the CPU board/rtc - if so what can fit what?"Uhm... no, the electronics case obviously doesn't have an impact on the modules containing the LED strips.The smaller one will fit Arduino Nano/Pro Mini as stated, the bigger one adds additional space for a ZS-042. Both can be seen in Step 1 and later on. Which one you'll need depends on what microcontroller/rtc combination you're planning to use... you can always download the STL files and check measurements to make sure."What size power supply did you use - my calculations put it a little over 20 amps!"Interesting calculation...WS2812B, max. current 60mA67x 60mA = 4020mA = 4.02A (~20W @5V)This would include all the unused leds and using all RGB channels at ful…

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    "Does the big have more LEDs per segment or is it just based on the CPU board/rtc - if so what can fit what?"Uhm... no, the electronics case obviously doesn't have an impact on the modules containing the LED strips.The smaller one will fit Arduino Nano/Pro Mini as stated, the bigger one adds additional space for a ZS-042. Both can be seen in Step 1 and later on. Which one you'll need depends on what microcontroller/rtc combination you're planning to use... you can always download the STL files and check measurements to make sure."What size power supply did you use - my calculations put it a little over 20 amps!"Interesting calculation...WS2812B, max. current 60mA67x 60mA = 4020mA = 4.02A (~20W @5V)This would include all the unused leds and using all RGB channels at full brightness while using all segments (88:88) - something not really happening when using this as a clock (except when changing colors using v7 enabling preview and creating a white palette). But anyways... I've written a lot about power consumption before and in other instructables/things. All my sketches do implement a power limit, in sketch v7 it's 500mA."While previous releases had power limits somewhat adjusted to the amount of leds (usually in the range of ~500-800mA), v7 will now have a 500mA limit by default on all preconfigured sketches."(From ClockSketch v7-Instructable, linked right at the top of this thing)

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  • S7ripClock - Basic Edition

    Ahah it seems i like to do things the hard way! :Dsome white diffusersPersonal experience: White doesn't work well. It sucks up too much light and only really works well at low ambient lighting :-/PETG can be very clear, yes. I've been using "natural PLA" for things like this. It's not as clear as PETG, all the diffusers from the pictures are printed in natural PLA. Still hesitant to check out how "smoke gray" or something like that might work....Make sure to print the diffusers with enough solid layers at the bottom, no infill layers between them. And rotating the infill angle can help, but how this is done is dependent on the slicer. In S3D/Cura you can enter a list of infill angles to use for infill - instead of the default -45°/45° something like -45°/45°/0°/90°. I…

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    Ahah it seems i like to do things the hard way! :Dsome white diffusersPersonal experience: White doesn't work well. It sucks up too much light and only really works well at low ambient lighting :-/PETG can be very clear, yes. I've been using "natural PLA" for things like this. It's not as clear as PETG, all the diffusers from the pictures are printed in natural PLA. Still hesitant to check out how "smoke gray" or something like that might work....Make sure to print the diffusers with enough solid layers at the bottom, no infill layers between them. And rotating the infill angle can help, but how this is done is dependent on the slicer. In S3D/Cura you can enter a list of infill angles to use for infill - instead of the default -45°/45° something like -45°/45°/0°/90°. In Slic3r/PS you'd have to use modifiers.

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  • ClockSketch V7 - Part I

    My question is do this Arduino/Pi RTC modules also have the trickle charge to charge the battery like the blue ones have?Can't tell for sure, but so far I did not come across "DS3231 for Pi"-modules with some kind of charging circuit. The ZS-042 modules seem to be affected by this most of the time, also some DS1307 modules might be a bit "special"... ^^One thing that's very likely is a much shorter life span of the smaller battery on the "DS3231 for Pi"-modules and often they're not as easy replacable as on other modules. Also I've seen discussions about modules coming with a goldcap instead of a battery - but I can't confirm this, I stopped buying "DS3231 for Pi"-modules after getting so many DS3231M ones...PS: im using arduino Nano and i saw that …

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    My question is do this Arduino/Pi RTC modules also have the trickle charge to charge the battery like the blue ones have?Can't tell for sure, but so far I did not come across "DS3231 for Pi"-modules with some kind of charging circuit. The ZS-042 modules seem to be affected by this most of the time, also some DS1307 modules might be a bit "special"... ^^One thing that's very likely is a much shorter life span of the smaller battery on the "DS3231 for Pi"-modules and often they're not as easy replacable as on other modules. Also I've seen discussions about modules coming with a goldcap instead of a battery - but I can't confirm this, I stopped buying "DS3231 for Pi"-modules after getting so many DS3231M ones...PS: im using arduino Nano and i saw that you can connect to the 3.3v but further on when the bat drops below 3v the issue will arise again.Yes, below 3v (somewhere around 2.8v if I remember correctly) the trickling charge will begin again. How "dangerous" this is is very dependent on many factors - actual voltage supplied to VCC and battery status (voltage, inner resistance). And what kind of battery you're using is important (CR/LIR).If running from a LIR this won't do any harm, as charging current/voltage will always be below critical values. If using a CR battery this heavily depends on the exact model - at worst* you're facing a reverse current of ~0.5-1.0mA, which some manufactures claim safe for their batteries, others don't...(* almost dead battery, way below 2.3v if I remember correctly)I am not an electrician/engineer/pro in this, therefore I strongly recommend reading the linked article and its sources. The discussion about this is going on for ~8 years now or so... I ended up simply removing diode/resistor or cutting the trace on the pcb to always disable charging. The thing that's important to me is people don't connect the ZS-042 modules directly to 5v without checking anything, that's just very likely to cause trouble.Depending on the design it might also be possible to simply run the RTC from 5v when using a LIR. S7ripClock for example is powered using a 5v power source on one end of the LED strip, the Arduino is connected to the other end. Voltage drop across the LED strip (and wiring from the power source to the LED strip) is likely enough to get "safe levels" (4.5-4.7 before reaching the diode on the RTC), but something like this should always be checked using a multimeter on the components in use.Another option would be adding a "goldcap" instead of the battery.... ^^

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  • S7ripClock - Basic Edition

    Thanks for posting the make!You don't need the buttons to set up the clock, you can use the Serial Monitor from the Arduino IDE. It's mentioned in the Instructable for sketch v7.

    You don't have to use other sketches to upload date/time... use the serial monitor as instructed to send button presses. 7 > button A, 8 > button B and so on... every function can be controlled using the serial monitor... ^^

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  • Triangulum - 3D Printed 3-Hand Clock

    The stepper is rated at 5v, so this should not really be a problem here. But the stepper can draw a current of up to 600mA according to different sources - that's more than the 500mA many USB ports can handle. Usually this results in resets on the Arduino and the stepper missing steps a lot and only working at very low speeds.Did you test using a USB power source or using a USB port from a pc/notebook?From the InstructableRed wire >>> 5V and black wire >>> GNDDoes this mean you're connecting +9V to the +5V pin on the Arduino, not VIN?

    I tried VIN and it didn't work at all, so i'm going to stick to what i've got.I can totally understand that. I'm just trying to figure out what exactly the Instructable is telling one to do. And connecting 9V to the 5V pin might damage the Arduino, because this is bypassing the voltage regulator on VIN.Can you tell me if it is currently connected/instructed like shown in this little picture? I tried recreating the IN1-4 wire colors from the pictures.

    Nice work, nice looking clock :)About power:I doubt the clock will work reasonably well using batteries in the long term. Those tiny steppers seem to consume quite some power and the sketch would have to be modified, in its current state the Arduino will draw more power than required. Not really a problem, but it will reduce battery runtime further.Possible solution: Add a DS3231(SN) RTC to the project and use its square wave output to get a clean 1Hz signal. That way you could send the Arduino into sleep mode and have it triggered by an interrupt from the DS3231 each second... that way you'd also have a temperature regulated and accurate time source.If you can live with a power cable running to the clock you could try using a USB power adapter, something like 5v/1A should be sufficient h…

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    Nice work, nice looking clock :)About power:I doubt the clock will work reasonably well using batteries in the long term. Those tiny steppers seem to consume quite some power and the sketch would have to be modified, in its current state the Arduino will draw more power than required. Not really a problem, but it will reduce battery runtime further.Possible solution: Add a DS3231(SN) RTC to the project and use its square wave output to get a clean 1Hz signal. That way you could send the Arduino into sleep mode and have it triggered by an interrupt from the DS3231 each second... that way you'd also have a temperature regulated and accurate time source.If you can live with a power cable running to the clock you could try using a USB power adapter, something like 5v/1A should be sufficient here. The Arduino Nano can be powered using its 5v pin (according to the data sheets) in this case.

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  • Retro 7 Segment Clock - the Final One(s)

    Tested on:Arduino UNO/Nano/Pro Mini and nodeMCU/EPS8266*, DS3231, WS2812BYes, you can use a Pro Mini/328. Some of my designs/sketches will also work on the 168P with 1kb RAM, but I don't recommend that one.Read the notes in the Clocksketch Instructable about the charging circuit of various RTC modules, the Pro Mini does not come with a 3.3v regulator like the UNO/Nano.

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  • 7 Segment Clock - Small Printers Edition

    Hi,20 minutes does sound more like running an Arduino without RTC... at least I can't remember RTC modules drifting that badly. o,OI'd suggest using the RTC library examples to set time on the RTC, let it run from the battery a few hours and check again, what time it is reporting. Only in setup does my sketch write anything to the RTC, so there's nothing which could "speed things up" on the RTC.

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  • Retro 7 Segment Clock - the Final One(s)

    By the way - it's great how you don't even try to explain what the problem is. But complaining is just so much easier and much more convenient, isn't it?Here's the unbelievable complicated thing I was suggesting. Following the link on top of the sketch and downloading the sketch there. I did so multiple times. Still you keep posting stuff from Thingiverse without any explanation at all what it is you want...

    Why do you keep posting links to files on Thingiverse for completely different designs? All versions are running on Arduino Nanos.... reading the instructions does help.1. Go to the Clocksketch v7-Instructable2. Download the sketch for the design you are buildingI'm outta here...

    Genau. Jetzt bin ich nicht nett. Weil da jemand nicht erklären kann, warum er nicht einfachdem zweiten Link in der Anleitung folgt und dort den Sketch herunter lädt. Sondern immerwieder irgendwas von Thingiverse verlinkt.Was erwarten manche von euch, dass ich gleich nach der Telefonnummer frage undeine TeamViewer-Session starte?!Ohne Worte...

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  • ClockSketch V7 - Part I

    "3rd party facepalm" ;)

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  • ClockSketch V7 - Part I

    I don't have a modified LGCv2 at hand, but the calculations should fit..."I've verified that pixel 1 is in the lower right, and pixel 77 is the upper left."If that's looking at the grid from the front, it's wrong. Lower left corner is X/Y 0,0.From the LGCv2 Instructable:Orientation is important. So keep an eye for the "x" inside the case, which marks the lower right corner/data in when building this.When finished and seen from the front this will be x/y 0,0 in the lower left corner.1st LED in the lower right corner is while building the thing and looking at it from the back.

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  • Retro 7 Segment Clock - the Final One(s)

    Using my sketch you will run into memory limitations on Arduinos at ~390 leds. Clocksketch Instructable, Step 3, Notes.

    Uhm... that looks like taken from the old thing on Thingiverse...?Maybe I don't understand what it is you want. But if you want the Arduino sketch for this clock from this Instructable, simply follow the link to "ClockSketch v7" right at the top of this page...

    There's a link to the sketch/Instructable about the Arduino sketch right on top of this Instructable...

    Just a few notes:- When building for ESP8266 this will interfere with the only analog port (A0)- void loop() will readout the sensor hundreds of times/second if doing it this way- It will not display the thermistors value if using a DS3231

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  • S7ripClock - Basic Edition

    ....the sketch is also linked within the first lines from this Instructable, just like on the other Instructable you just commented on....

    If it's the same problem you should ask the one who said it's working now but didn't tell anyone what the cause was. He didn't answer any of my questions, so replying to me is a bit pointless.but i connect everything right!How do you know, did you test the led strip?

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  • ClockSketch V7 - Part I

    "Any hints? Thanks!"Check the comments on the LGCv2, somebody posted exactly that a while ago. Don't forget to modify setPixel() AND checkPixel() in the same way, otherwise some color modes will do funny things...

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  • Retro 7 Segment Clock - the Final One(s)

    That's a lot of libraries, but you're missing the ones listed in the instructions for sketch v7 (Step 2, Config/Libraries)."ClockSketch_v7-L7-One:85:12: fatal error: RtcDS3231.h: No such file or directory"That's the sketch for Lazy 7 / One, not the one from this Instructable...

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  • Retro 7 Segment Clock - the Final One(s)

    Do you think it can be done?Obviously stuff like this can be done and has been done before... also people have done various remixes/mods of my sketch, there's already quite a few out there adding features.activate it remotely or change the colors from a smartphoneSo how do you plan to send the commands? Does your smartphone come with a "clock remote control"-app or how do you think this will work?

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  • Retro 7 Segment Clock - the Final One(s)

    Thanks for posting this make and publishing the modifications so others can use them!That's a lot of clocks there. And it reminds me of a circular design I once had in mind... xDI'm curious, did you take the picture at 10:47 on purpose? ^^

    Great to hear the clock is working for you. I don't have any bluetooth devices aroundhere (except my phone), so there's not really much I could do there. Adding a HS-05 module to the clock so it can receive commands shouldn't be too complicated.But how do you plan to send the commands, using what device?

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  • parallyze commented on parallyze's instructable Lazy Grid Clock V2
    Lazy Grid Clock V2

    Just curious, did you test sketch v7? Changed quite a lot of how the sketch works, so I'm wondering if the problem would still occur.... ^^

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  • Retro 7 Segment Clock - the Final One(s)

    Basically all you have to do is to replace all the led numbers (starting from 0 for the first one inside the center segment of the left most digit) inside the segGroups-array (starting from line #329). Also don't forget to reduce LED_COUNT (line #250).Testing doesn't require any buttons....

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  • Retro 7 Segment Clock - the Final One(s)

    Link? To what project, what are you even talking about?!

    How do one go about to solve that?Step 1:Think about it for a few secondsStep 2:Decide if you really want to go with a 10Ah battery and charge it every 36 hours...-.-

    Like in the other thread you've commented on - temperature is already included...Pressure, Humidity... that's all just values, what exactly is the difference in displaying them on a 7 segment module versus other values (dates, temperature, hours, seconds)?! (except missing symbols like "%")...

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  • Retro 7 Segment Clock - the Final One(s)

    Hi,the two lids are mirrored. If the holes don't align properly swapping them left/right should do the trick. I'll add some pictures later and will verifiy the STL file ^^

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  • S7ripClock - Basic Edition

    I have to admit - this confuses me a bit :Dpre_v6 is pre-configured for Arduino Nano/UNO/Pro Mini, pin assignments just like in the instructions...Anyways. You might want to have a look at v7. Colors/palettes are almost identical but you'll have the benefit of automatic dst switches if you'd like to. There's a link to v7 on top of this Instructable.

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  • S7ripClock - Basic Edition

    Glad you enjoyed building it and thanks for posting this make! Just curious, but did you use sketch v7? I've never tested it on the 6 digit version of S7ripClock, so hopefully you didn't have to fix things? ^^

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  • S7ripClock - Basic Edition

    Glad you enjoyed building it and thanks for posting this make! Just curious, but did you use sketch v7? I've never tested it on the 6 digit version of S7ripClock, so hopefully you didn't have to fix things? ^^

    Glad you enjoyed building it and thanks for posting this make! Are you running v7 of the sketch? I did not test the 6 digits version of this design, did you have to fix anything?

    Glad you enjoyed building it and thanks for posting this make! Just curious, but did you use sketch v7? I've never tested it on the 6 digit version of S7ripClock, so hopefully you didn't have to fix things? ^^

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  • ClockSketch V7 - Part I

    Done... ^^Sketches for Lazy Grid Clock v2 and Grid Clock v2 have been added (Step 3)

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  • ClockSketch V7 - Part I

    Which grid clock is it, "Lazy Grid Clock v2" or "Grid Clock v2"? ^^If you're going to use nightMode that's actually pretty easy to includein the previous sketch v6 when using a LDR.Included color palettes are almost exactly the same as before in v7. The differentcoloring modes won't be included in the grid clock versions - just the two alreadythere: different color per digit/color gradient top-bottom. So depending on what yourgoals are there might be no difference between v6/v7. The only thing missing in v6 coming to mind would be autoDST...

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  • Retro 7 Segment Clock - the Final One(s)

    There's many things one can try to get faster prints on the parts. I printed the diffusers with a single perimeter only, gap fill disabled. You just have to be very careful when removing them from the build plate... ^^But the XL ones will take some time. Just had a look, one set of diffusers (14 pcs) was around ~2h40m print time for the XL one I've built... ^^One thing I haven't tested yet but should be possible: Depending on the printers bridging capabilities the diffusers from this one can be printed upside down. This would allow for a very thin final layer with a darker color to get the contrast from unlit segments a bit down...

    Hi,yes, you're right. The solid part of the diffusers is 2.5mm thick. I've printed with 10x 0.25mm solid layers.If possible I'd suggest using more infill angles than 45°/-45°, it does help a bit getting better diffusion. In Cura/Simplify3D you can enter a list of infill angles, like "0; 90; 45; -45", not sure if that's possible without modifiers in (Prusa)Slic3r...

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  • Retro 7 Segment Clock - the Final One(s)

    :DHave fun building this one, let us know how it worked for you! :)Added the XL version today, just in case winter might get longer than a few days ;))

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    • Retro 7 Segment Clock - the Final One(s)
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  • S7ripClock - Basic Edition

    What sketch version, what platform? Colormode set using the buttons or changing variables? What's the output on the serial monitor?

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  • parallyze commented on parallyze's instructable Lazy 7 / One
    Lazy 7 / One

    Note to others who might read this:3.001 and 3.004 indicate the 3.1.x / 3.4.x branches inside the library manager. 3.1.6 is what I was using back in 2018 when adding ldr support to the sketch.If 3.1.0 was used then this would have already shown a problem when compiling because setting the power limits using volts+milliamps wasn't supported back then.Have a L7/O set up and running using a very old version (3.1.3 from 2016) right now, no problems at all using the unmodified sketch from this Instructable (which, according to him, would suffer the freeze problem using a default minBrightness of 20). It's been running for hours now @20....Anyways: I highly doubt all this has anything to do with one of my projects. In his screenshots there's some other changes he didn't mention. So after days o…

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    Note to others who might read this:3.001 and 3.004 indicate the 3.1.x / 3.4.x branches inside the library manager. 3.1.6 is what I was using back in 2018 when adding ldr support to the sketch.If 3.1.0 was used then this would have already shown a problem when compiling because setting the power limits using volts+milliamps wasn't supported back then.Have a L7/O set up and running using a very old version (3.1.3 from 2016) right now, no problems at all using the unmodified sketch from this Instructable (which, according to him, would suffer the freeze problem using a default minBrightness of 20). It's been running for hours now @20....Anyways: I highly doubt all this has anything to do with one of my projects. In his screenshots there's some other changes he didn't mention. So after days of spending time on this it's still unclear if there was a freeze at all or the unexplained modifications caused this. There's still absolutely nothing to back up anything he said nor any explanation why he's not using the unmodified sketch to test things...Judge for yourself...

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  • parallyze commented on parallyze's instructable Lazy 7 / One
    Lazy 7 / One

    You already posted exactly the same text twice 6 hours ago. 3 hours ago I replied to one of those.. and now you post the same thing a 3rd time?

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  • parallyze commented on parallyze's instructable Lazy 7 / One
    Lazy 7 / One

    Really fascinating. Instead of finally posting the output on the serial monitor to check the reported ldr values...My scheme is the same as yours. Only the connections are different."I've seen that movie. It just had a different title and the story was different, but it was a movie!"So it's not my schematics. I wouldn't recommend powering everything through the rtc because I wouldn't bet on the copper traces on the pcb being dimensioned for loads > 10 watts...And this is your projectNo, see above. And even if you were working on a L7/O you might want to explain why and where you derived from the instructions in the first place... but somehow each time you're asked to have a look at the serial monitor you come up with something completely different. Why do you refuse to have a…

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    Really fascinating. Instead of finally posting the output on the serial monitor to check the reported ldr values...My scheme is the same as yours. Only the connections are different."I've seen that movie. It just had a different title and the story was different, but it was a movie!"So it's not my schematics. I wouldn't recommend powering everything through the rtc because I wouldn't bet on the copper traces on the pcb being dimensioned for loads > 10 watts...And this is your projectNo, see above. And even if you were working on a L7/O you might want to explain why and where you derived from the instructions in the first place... but somehow each time you're asked to have a look at the serial monitor you come up with something completely different. Why do you refuse to have a look at the values reported in the serial monitor?!I've stated multiple times I had a L7/O up and running, you could have simply uploaded the modified sketch somewhere... but for some reasons you didn't want this, too...

    That wiring diagram looks like there's been some badly made changes. Also it's incomplete...Are you really running up to 2.5amps passing through the rtc module?!Did you check the charging circuit on the rtc, are you using a ZS-042 like in the schematics?Many of this is covered in my Instructables. But as far as I can tell you didn't really have a closer look at them. Also I'm very convinced we're not talking about one of my designs - more likely some led strips glued to some wood. There's really no other reasons why one would refuse posting the serial output and/or detailed information.

    I tried your different firmware and version 6 and version 7.Settings:byte brightness = 255;byte brightnessLevels [3] {150, 160, 255};byte brightnessAuto = 1;byte upperLimitLDR = 150;byte lowerLimitLDR = 50;byte minBrightness = 30;.................................................. ...void readLDR () {updateDisplay ();static byte runCounter = 1;static int tmp = 0;byte readOut = map (analogRead (pinLDR), 0, 1023, 0, 250);tmp + = readOut;if (runCounter == 5) {avgLDR = (tmp / 5) * factorLDR;tmp = 0; runCounter = 0;if (dbg && dbgLDR) {Serial.print (F ("avgLDR value:")); Serial.print (avgLDR); }avgLDR = max (avgLDR, int (minBrightness)); avgLDR = min (avgLDR, int (brightness));if (avgLDR> brightness) avgLDR = brightness;if ( avgLDR >= upperLimitLDR && avgLDR < …

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    I tried your different firmware and version 6 and version 7.Settings:byte brightness = 255;byte brightnessLevels [3] {150, 160, 255};byte brightnessAuto = 1;byte upperLimitLDR = 150;byte lowerLimitLDR = 50;byte minBrightness = 30;.................................................. ...void readLDR () {updateDisplay ();static byte runCounter = 1;static int tmp = 0;byte readOut = map (analogRead (pinLDR), 0, 1023, 0, 250);tmp + = readOut;if (runCounter == 5) {avgLDR = (tmp / 5) * factorLDR;tmp = 0; runCounter = 0;if (dbg && dbgLDR) {Serial.print (F ("avgLDR value:")); Serial.print (avgLDR); }avgLDR = max (avgLDR, int (minBrightness)); avgLDR = min (avgLDR, int (brightness));if (avgLDR> brightness) avgLDR = brightness;if ( avgLDR >= upperLimitLDR && avgLDR < brightness ) avgLDR = brightness;if ( avgLDR <= lowerLimitLDR ) avgLDR = minBrightness;if ( avgLDR < minBrightness ) avgLDR = minBrightness;if (avgLDR if (dbg && dbgLDR) {Serial.print (F ("- adjusted to:")); Serial.println (avgLDR); }}runCounter ++;}Apart from you not reacting to my comment about this:void readLDR () {updateDisplay ();Also there's other modifications, this is not taken from v6 or v7 directly.And this is your projectSo why are you using modified code instead of the provided sketches?

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  • parallyze commented on parallyze's instructable Lazy 7 / One
    Lazy 7 / One

    I noticed that with (avgLDR = minBrightness;) after a certain time the clock freezes. But with (avgLDR = brightness;) the clock runs wellI noticed you're not interested in solving the problem you initially commented on.And no, the clock does not freeze with "(avgLDR = minBrightness;)". There's two checks involving this, one making sure avgLDR is never below minBrightness, the other one switching to minBrightness if a lowerLimitLDR is defined. So maybe you should, once again, try to properly explain your problem.I am pretty sure somebody would have noticed the clock locking up each night when using an LDR...So far the only ones I've come across who had problems with ldr values have been using ESP8266 boards but did connect the ldr to +5v. This will lead to overflows and was visib…

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    I noticed that with (avgLDR = minBrightness;) after a certain time the clock freezes. But with (avgLDR = brightness;) the clock runs wellI noticed you're not interested in solving the problem you initially commented on.And no, the clock does not freeze with "(avgLDR = minBrightness;)". There's two checks involving this, one making sure avgLDR is never below minBrightness, the other one switching to minBrightness if a lowerLimitLDR is defined. So maybe you should, once again, try to properly explain your problem.I am pretty sure somebody would have noticed the clock locking up each night when using an LDR...So far the only ones I've come across who had problems with ldr values have been using ESP8266 boards but did connect the ldr to +5v. This will lead to overflows and was visible in their sketches - all of them had factorLDR set to values >= 10...If you're seriously interested in solving any of this, feel free to post some information. Microcontroller used, wiring, sketch version, power supply, config changes and serial output(!)... are you using the 4 or 6 digit version of this clock?Right now putting more effort into this seems like a major waste of time, so far you didn't post any useful info or answer anything...

    I have one set up and running using default values:upperLimitLDR = 180;lowerLimitLDR = 50;minBrightness = 30; It's been running now for roughly 90 minutes:RTC date is : 2021-9-15 (Y/M/D)autoDST time is: 16:45:40-snip-RTC date is : 2021-9-15 (Y/M/D)autoDST time is: 18:13:20Values <= 50 are lowered to 30, values < 30 are raised to 30. Both checks doing their job:readLDR(): avgLDR value: 49 - adjusted to: 30readLDR(): avgLDR value: 10 - adjusted to: 30Selected brightness level was 90, so avgLDR > 90 was also properly capped at 90:readLDR(): avgLDR value: 151 - adjusted to: 90What do you mean by saying"the watch falls asleep after a while."There is no "sleep mode". So does it really freeze, did you check on the serial monitor if it is still running?Your chan…

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    I have one set up and running using default values:upperLimitLDR = 180;lowerLimitLDR = 50;minBrightness = 30; It's been running now for roughly 90 minutes:RTC date is : 2021-9-15 (Y/M/D)autoDST time is: 16:45:40-snip-RTC date is : 2021-9-15 (Y/M/D)autoDST time is: 18:13:20Values <= 50 are lowered to 30, values < 30 are raised to 30. Both checks doing their job:readLDR(): avgLDR value: 49 - adjusted to: 30readLDR(): avgLDR value: 10 - adjusted to: 30Selected brightness level was 90, so avgLDR > 90 was also properly capped at 90:readLDR(): avgLDR value: 151 - adjusted to: 90What do you mean by saying"the watch falls asleep after a while."There is no "sleep mode". So does it really freeze, did you check on the serial monitor if it is still running?Your changes to the avgLDR checks might have introduced a loop which simply drops brightness below 0 or raises it above 255, so there's an overflow. So the clock is still running, but you're not seeing anything.If you're running v7 of the sketch there should be an update every 20 seconds, so it's very easy to check if the clock is running or if the leds don't show anything.

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  • parallyze commented on parallyze's instructable Lazy 7 / One
    Lazy 7 / One

    Uhm.."But the glow in sunlight is still not enough"Yes. You simply can't win a fight with direct sunlight using WS2812 leds... leds for lighting nowadays come with an efficency of around ~120-140 lumens/watt. WS2812B /SMD5050 are nowhere close to that, my guess would be way below 40lm/w. 8 leds in each segment at a max of 60mA = 2.4w. That's way below 100lm maximum output...What other steps did you do to achieve maximum brightness?Things like using primary colors will also drastically lower the output...

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  • ClockSketch V7 - Part I

    Using the #ifdef part from your comment works without a problem, so it's probably something else causing the error.Upload the sketch somewhere so others can have a look at it (config, what options are enabled/disabled, formatting).

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  • parallyze commented on parallyze's instructable Lazy Grid Clock V2
    Lazy Grid Clock V2

    Thanks for posting the modifications in case somebody else wants to save the 6 leds. Just a note to people using 12h format: Inside setupClock() there's still the dot shown for am/pm indication, this probably needs adjustment, too!

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