author
4Instructables299,663Views108Commentsgreystanes Australia

Tell us about yourself!

Achievements

100+ Comments Earned a bronze medal
10K+ Views Earned a bronze medal
Raspberry Pi Contest 2016
Contest Winner Second Prize in the Raspberry Pi Contest 2016
  • Ambilight System for Every Input Connected to Your TV. WS2812B Arduino UNO Raspberry Pi HDMI (Updated 12.2019)

    Hi,No I have not tried fastLED. If I find some time I might give it a try one day.

    View Instructable »
  • Ambilight System for Every Input Connected to Your TV. WS2812B Arduino UNO Raspberry Pi HDMI (Updated 12.2019)

    Hello,Not sure. I have never tried.

    Hello,Good question, not sure, your link is not available from the seller anymore.

    Nano can be used yes.Pinout can be changed in the code

    I am not sure, never tried. If you do try please let us know.

    View Instructable »
  • Ambilight System for Every Input Connected to Your TV. WS2812B Arduino UNO Raspberry Pi HDMI (Updated 12.2019)

    Hi,So sorry I did not reply any earlier. Are you still on this project?I have absolutely no experience with Mac. But yes, you can install hyperion directly as you did. It works too.You can get a screenshot, that is already a huge point.At startup, (after 10 seconds) the LED light up or not at all?If you do not want to use the LCD, you just have to comment out the line in the loop() that is check_source(); Not need to delete anything.Did you calculate your prefix and added it to the code?

    Hello, thank you for the kind words.When you say they are just flashing rapidly, do they do that straight away or after a while?I am not too experienced with libreelec on Pi4 but I know it works.

    Yes absolutely. Just count your total amount of LEDs and use it to calculate your prefix

    Try looking for a 5V power supply with 20Amps instead.Absolute maximum is 60mA per LED so 6Amps per 100LEDs, which is full brightness of all 3 colors. Very unlikely.I previously had 250LEDs connected to this Power supply and never had an issue.

    View Instructable »
  • Ambilight System for Every Input Connected to Your TV. WS2812B Arduino UNO Raspberry Pi HDMI (Updated 12.2019)

    Not sure what happened to this file... I checked and it was 290Mb.....I deleted it and reuploaded it to this instructables. Could you try and see if it works now?In case there is still an issue, the prefix for 196 leds is: 0x41 0x64 0x61 0x00 0xc3 0x96

    View Instructable »
  • Ambilight System for Every Input Connected to Your TV. WS2812B Arduino UNO Raspberry Pi HDMI (Updated 12.2019)

    Hello,This is strange. Maybe Instructables did not like my upload.Finid here a photo of the prefixes around 290. You can see yours and copy the numbers.Dont forget to add 0x in front of each of them. Hope this helps you move forward.

    Hello,This is strange it modified the txt file that way.Your prefix for 293 leds will be:0x41 0x64 0x61 0x01 0x24 0x70Hope this helps you move one step further.

    Hello,This is strange. Maybe Instructables did not like my upload.Finid here a photo of the prefixes around 290. You can see yours and copy the numbers.Dont forget to add 0x in front of each of them. Hope this helps you move forward.

    View Instructable »
  • Ambilight System for Every Input Connected to Your TV. WS2812B Arduino UNO Raspberry Pi HDMI (Updated 12.2019)

    Ok, i just loaded another Pi i had with Libreelec 8.2.5 (on the lightberry website), installed hyperion from HyperCon, loaded my hyperion config and it works without an issue.The Pi i used for this test is a Pi 3 model 1

    Ok, i just loaded another Pi i had with Libreelec 8.2.5 (on the lightberry website), installed hyperion from HyperCon, loaded my hyperion config and it works without an issue.The Pi i used for this test is a Pi 3 model 1

    Ok, i just loaded another Pi i had with Libreelec 8.2.5 (on the lightberry website), installed hyperion from HyperCon, loaded my hyperion config and it works without an issue.The Pi i used for this test is a Pi 3 model 1

    Ok, i just loaded another Pi i had with Libreelec 8.2.5 (on the lightberry website), installed hyperion from HyperCon, loaded my hyperion config and it works without an issue.The Pi i used for this test is a Pi 3 model 1

    View Instructable »
  • Ambilight System for Every Input Connected to Your TV. WS2812B Arduino UNO Raspberry Pi HDMI (Updated 12.2019)

    Prefix is correct. No no, 240 is not a problem at all.Yes, Arduino genuine works ok, i tested a genuine Arduino and had to change the output to /dev/ttyACM0.Not sure about libre elec, i have never tried. Maybe i should give it a go and see.Can you send me a copy of your hyperion config file?

    Hello,How many leds do you have on your strip?Can you post a photo of the image grabbed by the grabber?One thing to note is when you take a grabber screenshot, hyperion stops working, you have to re-enable it after or reboot the system.Another thing i noticed, what kind of Arduino are you using?

    View Instructable »
  • Ambilight System for Every Input Connected to Your TV. WS2812B Arduino UNO Raspberry Pi HDMI (Updated 12.2019)

    When you use hyperCon to do the screen capture, it uses the cropping values set in hyperCon and not the one from your saved file. You have to make sure you set them as per your setup.Yes, i use the lightberry version, I never tried the normal version of Openelec to see if it works.I don’t think the version of Openelec you use will ha e any effect on the splitter at all.On the Arduino code, is your prefix[ ] correct?

    Does not matter. Just increase the bottom gap by 3 and change your offset to have LED0 being on the left of the bottom gap (facing tv) where your strip starts.It is very important you use the number of LED from the Hyperion config to calculate your prefix for the Arduino code.

    Yes it all has to be on the same ground. If they are not tied together it might be floating at different levels. I use a 5V power supply and supply all devices from it. So they all have the same ground potential.Yes 10uF is ok and will work fine too.To answer your other comment. You can do that, all non existing pixels, the data will just go out of the last LED and go nowhere, that is fine too. So yes, keep your actual config with the extra LEDs. Just make sure to use that number of LED you see in HyperCon to calculate your prefix

    Yes good point, I change LED strip from 60led/m to 30led/m.

    View Instructable »
  • Ambilight System for Every Input Connected to Your TV. WS2812B Arduino UNO Raspberry Pi HDMI (Updated 12.2019)

    I have a new .ini file where i removed all the delays. For your Arduino not to reboot on the Pi startup, just put a 10uF capacitor between GND and reset pin. It boots up directly and i can now see the Hyperion startup sequence instead

    Sorry, i just saw something else.Untick the internal frame grabber enable box too. Not sure of your whole setup. But using an external grabber, this needs to stay unticked. Only the V4L2 grabber used

    .ino file sorry

    Screenshot looks good. When you say rapid flickering lights, are all light flickering or only some?If you have the tv displaying a static color image, are at least some of the lights lighting up correctly?What version of openelec are you using? I tried updating the instructables using openelec 8.0.3 for Pi 3 but I cant save it for some reasons.

    View Instructable »
  • Ambilight System for Every Input Connected to Your TV. WS2812B Arduino UNO Raspberry Pi

    Its a good thing you can see the startup patern already.Now, if you use HyperCon to connect to your Pi and get a screenshot of your grabber, what do you see on the image?

    View Instructable »
  • Arduino Solar Charge Controller + Output Control and Data Logging Online With Xbee WiFi

    Thanks.As long as your mosfets can handle 24V, all is ok on this side.You might just want to recalculate the resistor dividers for the measure of the voltages.

    View Instructable »
  • Ambilight System for Every Input Connected to Your TV. WS2812B Arduino UNO Raspberry Pi

    Hi,Thank you. Has been a while now, still working a treat apart from dodgy WS2812B chips along the strip every now and then.I did not create an actual schematic unfortunately but I can tell you that the Arduino pin that connects to the Data pin of the LED strip is pin 5.The Arduino pin that is connected to the ON/OFF switch is pin 11. This pin is active LOW, meaning that your ON/OFF button has to be pulling this pin to GND when it is pressed.I have also a status LED showing if the LEDs are ON or OFF, this status LED is connected to pin 8 of the Arduino.Hope this helps a bit. Good luck with LibreELEC. Hope it works out well for you.Cheers.

    My HDMI switch automatically switches to the latest HDMI connection so if I switch from computer to PS4, it automatically goes to PS4.

    Hi,Sorry for the loooooong delay.Yes of course it can be done. Any HDMI can be used.

    View Instructable »
  • It was from element14 here in Australia. I think it is known or used to be known as Farnell as well. It was dirt cheap too. Like 20AUD. It is a 19inch rack mount enclosure.Link below to something i found just now.https://au.element14.com/pro-power/g17081ubk/case-19-abs-1u-black/dp/1526723?st=1u%20plastic%20enclosure

    View Instructable »
  • It should have one with .sh as well. For some reason i can't upload .sh files on here. Can you send me your email address and i will send you a copy of my file.

    View Instructable »
  • This looks promising!!Communication between hyperion and arduino and LED is working for sure as per your tests with the color wheel.Now our only issue is the grabber. If you look at the log, it is looking for the hyperion-v4l2.sh but cannot find it in the path stated above. ( /storage/hyperion/bin/ ) Can you log into your Pi with WinSCP and go to the path above to see if the file is in there or not please.If you can't find the file, try an locate it in any other folders and move it to the correct location. If you can't find it, I will send you mine. Once the file is in the correct folder, run the test again and let us know the result.

    Hello,Starting by the arduino code, this will not really make the system any faster as it is designed to update the LCD only when it is not receiving active data from the Pi. The LED data received has priority over updating the LCD.If you want to get rid of it your can remove the lines as per the attached photo.Have you tried getting a screenshot of your system to see what the grabbed image looks like? I had a problem where sometimes my grabber would get images that are complete garbage with completely wrong colors. This could explain the problem. Slow reaction might be due to too many "frame too small" received by the grabber. As per JwJolly88 's picture below.Let us know.

    View Instructable »
  • Get the whole log when you connect to your Pi and the screenshot process

    That is strange, have you connected to your Pi before trying to take a screenshot with HyperCon? Maybe you can post up the log file that appears when you connect with HyperCon to see what is happening

    View Instructable »
  • Yes it is normal it returns different values as this is a screenshot that doesnt use the actual hyperion config.Maybe you can try to connect to your Pi using the 5th tab on hyperCon and see how it performs.Powering the arduino via the usb is a definate no go. Power it via the +5V and GND header pins instead.Let me know how this works.

    View Instructable »
  • Thanks for the nice and positive comment.I like the setup!! Niiice! It looks good.It was my idea in the arduino code to have the LEDs power off after 5 sec of no image but I have seen that it doesn't work 100% all the time. Hyperion must still be sending stuffs even tho the LED "color" is black.

    Hi and thank you for the nice comment.I can see in your json file that you didn't set the output to "/dev/ttyUSB0" but instead it is set to "/dev/ttyS0".Change this in your hyperCon program and then try and upload the new json config file and test again. MAke sure you power off the system and back on for hyperion to use the new json config file settings.

    It did happen to me as well. In your hyperCon config, under the grabber tab, try and lower the resolution a bit from -1;-1 to something like 340;280 and try again.

    View Instructable »
  • OK, make sure you plug the wifi dongle on the side where you plugged in your arduino and not the grabber.On your json config, make sure if PAL is what you are after and not NTSC, not sure where you live.You can try as well in the json file to lower the resolution in the grabber section from -1 -1 to something like 128 and 64. Plenty enough when you come to think how many LEDs you have behind your tv. I have experimented with mine and it make a difference.I can't seem to be allowed to upload the autostart.sh file... Can you give me your email address and I will send it to you this way.Arduino program looks all good.Let me know how it turns out.

    View Instructable »
  • It all looks pretty good as far as i can tell. Didnt have any time yesterday so i will look into it today and get back to you asap on the config files.

    View Instructable »
  • Will post my autostart file tonight.I have never tried osmc so i cant help with that.So to make a point, what is your setup now? Arduino r3, Pi2 pr 3? What version of Openelec?Post up your actual json config file as well if possible to check it up now that you changed some hardware.

    View Instructable »
  • Thats unfortunate indeed!! Only thing that comes to my mind is maybe a problem with the wiring on the Pi, i personally power my Pi via the +5V and 0v pins of the GPIO headers. You can easily find on internet a pinout of the header which will show you where these pins are connected.I have long ago stopped counting how many things I have blown up hahaha

    View Instructable »
  • When i mean ground i mean that all the 0v have to be linked together. I.e arduino is powered from 2wires (+5v and 0v), same goes for the Pi and the LEDs and all the converters. All the 0v have to be linked together.We will make a point to recap it all after.Pi2 with openelec 6.95.3 etc etc to see where we are at.

    The Pi is powered basically by 2wires. (+5v and 0v). The 0v has to be the same 0v as for the arduino and the leds etc.On my setup i have 1 power supply to power everything. I use the +5v and 0v from it to power everything. I did cut the wall adapters of all converters and stripped the wires to get the +5v and 0v

    View Instructable »
  • Or maybe it is because you have not loaded your hyperion config file yet.

    That is not an error, that is the startup of hyperion command line.Here is my config. In the one you copied above, the dev/ttyS0 is wrong.

    That is not an error, that is the startup of hyperion command line.Here is my config. In the one you copied above, the dev/ttyS0 is wrong.

    Most of these wall plugs have isolation betweek live side and output. It is important that all devices have the same grounds. Like in my setup everything runs from 1 power supply. Leds and all the rest and all grounds are common. If you take a multimeter and check for continuity you should have 0 ohm between all the grounds for all devices in your system.It definately has to be ttyUSB0.

    View Instructable »
  • What you and MrRocketship should try is to connect to your Pi straight from the HyperCon software. On the 5th tab, input your IP address for your Pi, change the user name to root and password to openelec and try to connect. Once connected you can press on "remove hyperion" and then try the "Inst./Upd. Hyperion" see how this go

    My first attempt was using an unofficial build of openelec. I just tried earlier with the 6.95.3 and it worked for me straight up. Maybe give this a go too

    See my comment above.What RPi are you running already? I just realized/remembered that your Openelec version is different from mine as well.

    Just saw as well, watch out for your baudrate, in the arduino code it is set at 500'000 if you have not modified it, it appears in your config here that it is set at 115'200.Using arduino mega too is it correct? "/dev/ttyACM0" arduino uno is the "/dev/ttyUSB0" in case.

    View Instructable »
  • Looks fine for the .config placement. Yes it is normal it adds leds if you tick the ones on the construction tab. If you tick all 4 then you have to substract 2 leds on the count for left and 2 for the count of right and you will end up with the same number of LEDs on your config.I can't see on the hardware tab what output settings you have. Also maybe you could post some pictures of your actual setup of your system. You can send them by private message if you prefer as well

    I have checked your config file and it looks good. I can see the output settings etc so on this side it is all ok.On putty, when you write killall hyperiond and hit enter does it say "no process were killed"? Or does it just bring you back to the next command line?

    View Instructable »
  • First thing you can check is to look on your Arduino board if the Rx or Tx led (depend if genuine or chinese) is blinking quickly.To take a screenshot using putty, once you are logged in, write:killall hyperiond"press enter"then writeLD_LIBRARY_PATH=/storage/hyperion/bin /storage/hyperion/bin/hyperion-v4l2 --screenshot"press enter"when you log in using WinSCP you can check your screenshot in the hyperion folder.

    Ok I can see 2 things.First is that the type of LEDs has to be set to Adalight and not WS281x.Second is where you have put the json file.It has to be inside /storage/.config/ not inside the hyperion menu.

    the .config menu does not apper on WinSCP or even on your program. When uploading the json file I have to manually write the destination address as /storage/.config/

    Can you check that you have some activity on the Rx or Tx led of your arduino. That will tell us at least if the Pi is outputting data to the arduino and we will know if the problem is arduino related or Pi related.Yes this is correct, your settings need to reflect your system and not mine.

    View Instructable »
  • Yes, if you read the comments in the code it says to remove 1 to your total LEDs. So if you have 120 LEDs behind your TV, you will have to use 119 to calculate the hex value and the checksum.

    OK, i had a bit of time and experimented with the new hyperion. If configured wrong then it will not work.Check at the pictures below, and tick the same menus. Then create a config file and upload it in your pi under /storage/.config/ No need to add anything to the config file.Let me know how it goes. P.S. the 5th tab, I havent looked into it yet but it works regardless.

    For your problem, can you please make sure there is not something else written above the exit status 1. It might be library related.Like on the attached image.The "" instead of <> doesn't matter.

    OK I just had a look at the new hyperCon.jar, yes you need to enable the grabber V4L2. What it basically does is replace the lines I ask you to add in the config. If you look closely at the tabs under the grabber, they are exactly the same as the ones I ask you to paste in the json file.So to resume, you need to activate it in the HyperCon.jar and fill up the fields with the same values you would normally paste in the json file. It will then create the json file for you with all the infos in it already, no need to reopen the json file and paste anything in it.Be also carefull under the hardware tab to select the correct type, output and baudrate. The baudrate has to be identical as in the arduino code. If not it will not work.How many leds are in your system? I want firstly to double chec…

    see more »

    OK I just had a look at the new hyperCon.jar, yes you need to enable the grabber V4L2. What it basically does is replace the lines I ask you to add in the config. If you look closely at the tabs under the grabber, they are exactly the same as the ones I ask you to paste in the json file.So to resume, you need to activate it in the HyperCon.jar and fill up the fields with the same values you would normally paste in the json file. It will then create the json file for you with all the infos in it already, no need to reopen the json file and paste anything in it.Be also carefull under the hardware tab to select the correct type, output and baudrate. The baudrate has to be identical as in the arduino code. If not it will not work.How many leds are in your system? I want firstly to double check the checksum etc to have a starting point at troubleshooting.The rainbow pattern will always show as it is part of the arduino code when it starts up.

    View Instructable »
  • Hi,No nothing should bug if you don't use the lcd. If anything happens let me know and i will lookup the code and upload a new one for no lcd.I saw another comment about the new hyperion but I can't download the version. Do you mind putting a link for it please?

    Hi,Couple of things to check, first is how many LED's have you got hooked up? Have you updated correctly the checksum number in the beginning of the arduino code?As long as your surround sound outputs the image and that it then get split between tv and raspberry it should be fine.

    Hi,Not sure about RPi3 supports. But yes this version does not run on the RPi3 as you saw.

    As long as your switcher and your splitter are good for 4k, i don't see why not.I hav not had time to test out too much with the RPi3 myself as yet.

    View Instructable »