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When you dye with antique finish (are they eco-flo?), don't you remove some when you use the Super sheen finish?Since the pigments in antique finish are much bigger than in regular dye, every time I used super sheen or other water based finish on an antique finish dyed leather it will move.It doesn't matter if your piece is one color, but let's say you have a part you want to leave raw or brighter, then it's really hard to put the finish on the whole piece without having the dye to move a little on the wrong parts.Does it do the same for you? Do you have any recommendations?
Thank you Phiske!It's water dyed (Eco-Flow medium brown, eveything) and then yes it was veg tanned leather. I used some leather contact cement (it's a black can with silver writing).But may be I'm not waiting enough before assembling.Sometimes when I do the burnishing some contact cement come along, or sometimes I see there is not contact cement all along the edge. I need more experience with that ^^But thank you for your great instructables, I definitely learned a lot!
Thank you very much for this instructable, I was able to make it and it look great! (I'm still struggling a little with the contact cement and the burnished edges).
Mold Making & Casting Class
Leather Tools and Supplies
Hello,I didn't really understand the option 2.You use double sided tape to glue your fep foil on the side of your vat. But then you put back your transparent sheet on the bottom of the vat I assume, and how does the fep foil stick to the transparent sheet? Or how to make sure you don't have air bubble between the fep foil and the transparent sheet?I'm sorry this step is fuzzy to me :x
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