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popi1854

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  • Hex Infinity Mirror Pendant

    I finally got all the tiny parts needed. A real trick to assemble, but here it is!

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  • Hex Infinity Mirror Pendant

    no problems with IDE. I got the file from Git Hub, set tools for ATtiny45 and got "done uploading" -so no problem there.

    Got everything together. As far as I can tell, I have wired it correctly. I can not get the led's to light up. When I hook it up to my Ardino Uno it works just fine. Any ideas?

    when I test the voltage, I am getting 4 volts.

    I GOT IT!!!!!reloaded the sketch and it werks!I will post when completed!!!!!!!!!!

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  • popi1854 made the instructable Fast Track - Pitt State
    Fast Track - Pitt State

    All parts 3D printed - no wood. Glass marbles from the "large south american river"I altered the design a bit. (hope that does not offend anyone) Had to make it mine.Nice game - thanks for posting such a fun game!

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  • Mesmerizing Magnetic Wall Clock

    I am just learning this electronics stuff. As far as I know, the only criteria here is that the number of steps in one rotation should match the particular motor that you are using. In other words, you need to change that number to suit your build.

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  • 8 Planet Motorized Orrery - 3D Printed

    All my friends are amazed by this thing. Thanks to Widget Wiz for posting a fun project. I did not have any problems with the Earth Moon gears. They worked fine right off the printer. I did have some issues with the Saturn and Uranus gear trains- but a little re-engineering made it all work just fine. I didn't want to glue all the drive gears to a steel shaft, so I printed an "X" shaft and made open "X" centers for all the drive gears. Now I have a posi-drive, no slip, driver. I also did away with the all-thread frame posts and made 3D printed frame posts. The brass tubes are an obvious necessity, but in general I prefer to avoid metal when I can use 3D printed parts.

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  • popi1854 commented on shiura's instructable Casino'clock
    Casino'clock

    Pin map for ESP8266

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  • popi1854 commented on shiura's instructable Casino'clock
    Casino'clock

    quite simply. the Jack is 11 the Queen is 12so 11:00 is Jack Joker Joker ect..............

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  • popi1854 commented on shiura's instructable Casino'clock
    Casino'clock

    I think I have figured it out!Will post again when I have the WiFi working.

    I have an iPhone - which, as far as I can tell, does not provide the ability to set or switch WiFi connections. However - my 8266 chip is connecting, because it does get the correct time for the card clock to display. It may be that the ESP Touch app is not compatible with American cell service. That said - its still a totally cool clock. I had it running all night, and this morning, it was showing the correct time! I unplugged it to move to another location, and it took about 15 resets to get back to the correct time display. One thing I noticed, is that it did not display the correct time until the reset showed all 3 Jokers at the front position.

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  • 8 Planet Motorized Orrery - 3D Printed

    Thank You - again - for your helpful reply. And - Yes - your suggestions have helped immensely! I can now edit to my hearts content. My grandchildren will love this orrery when its done! Working on it now.

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  • popi1854 commented on shiura's instructable Casino'clock
    Casino'clock

    My make is posted above. I have not yet been able to get the ESP Touch app to find it.So I went into the sketch and manually entered my SSID and password.My card flapper clock is now showing the correct time - SO COOL!Now I just need to figure out the app thing.

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  • popi1854 made the instructable Casino'clock
    Casino'clock

    Well......I made this cool thing, and it works - that is the motors turn in the correct direction - but I can not get the ESP Touch app to 'find' the device. So I have not been able to set it as a clock to tell the correct time. Not sure what to do next.

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  • 8 Planet Motorized Orrery - 3D Printed

    Same question as sig45My CAD program can not open IPT files. Is there a way that you could post the CAD files as DXF, or even DWG. I would like to give this project a go - but the cost of programs that can open IPT files is prohibitive. The STL files are nice, but I can not edit them. It would be nice if the CAD files were in a format that more of us could have access to.

    Thank You for the reply. I will check out your suggestions!

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  • popi1854 commented on shiura's instructable Casino'clock
    Casino'clock

    OK - so, this is one of the coolest things I have seen on this site. (to me any kind of non-standard clock is cool) Its on the printer now. I will post a photo when I am done. The C3 chip was not available, but I had an ESP8266 on hand. Figuring out the pin arrangement from one to the other was quite a task. (The GPIO web sites make it look easy, but the breadboard says - not so fast!) And I learned that things like this can be controlled/set with a smart phone app! How smart is that? Thanks for posting such a cool thing!!!!!!!!!

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  • popi1854 commented on psykokwak's instructable Nothing Here
    Nothing Here

    I made one of these - but it turned out so big I had to put it in another galaxy.

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  • popi1854 commented on shiura's instructable Hollow Clock 3
    Hollow Clock 3

    Its been running for several hours now - keeps pretty good time.And - no lubricants on the worm gear. I sanded it smooth with 320 and tested it for ease of turning. Lubricants are for high speed gears. At these low speeds - no lubricants needed. Plus added an LED to the nano board to light up the base. It will look cool on the mantle in my beach house.

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  • popi1854 made the instructable Hollow Clock 3
    Hollow Clock 3

    Nice project. Thank you for sharing. The print files were perfectly sized - everything fit together easily. I usually like to use more colors in my prints, but your black, white and red scheme looks so good I went with it. Just added a larger base for the electronics and to give it a bit more height. The only (small) problem I had was the retainer tabs on the minute wheel are very delicate and need to be handled very carefully.

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  • Make Your Own Simple Theremin

    I wood like an answer 2 the same question!

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  • popi1854 commented on shiura's instructable Hollow Clock 2
    Hollow Clock 2

    Nice project. Very good instructions. I like to see things work - so I had to punch a few holes in the front so the gears can be seen turning. Also shortened the hands a bit so they seem to float and not appear to be connected in the center. Thank you for posting such a cool thing.

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  • popi1854 made the instructable Hollow Clock 2
    Hollow Clock 2

    Cool clock. Made a few little adjustments to suit my taste. Keeps pretty good time too!

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  • 3D Print Your Own Nanoleaf Project - Alexa, Hue and App Integration

    Nice project. I am not a fan of cutting and gluing - so I printed the frames and the lenses together as one piece. No fancy back pieces either, just welded the triangles together and hung it on an anchored screw.

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  • How to Build a Giant Hidden Shelf Edge Clock

    I would be happy to share STL's with you. (not interested in posting on any web site) you can contact me directly at 3dprint1854 at gmail dot com

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  • popi1854 made the instructable RGB HexMatrix | IOT Clock
    RGB HexMatrix | IOT Clock

    Thanks for a great Instructable. It was very interesting learning how to work with the ESP8266 wi fi module.

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  • RGB HexMatrix | IOT Clock

    I got it working!Now I just need the correct time code for United States EST.

    In step 4, showing the order of assembly of the LED's. Are we looking at the front or the back of the matrix frame?What is the difference between clock 1 and clock 2?

    double checked - all is correct. guess I'll play around with the ESP8266 pins.The hex matrix sketch will not get past rainbow.h.

    I got all my library's and boards installed. The hex matrix code will not verify.I have uploaded the clock 1 to my ESP8266, connected it up, and it does nothing. I plugged the LED matrix into my Arduino Uno with the Adafruit NeoPixel strand test loaded and everything works. The ESP8266 chip that you show in the assembly photos is much smaller that the one that I got. Mine is stamped ESP8266MOD. Not sure what to do next.

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  • RGB HexMatrix | IOT Clock

    OK silly me. I get it.its the ESP8622 board!

    Thank you for the link to the LEDs!In step 4: Assembly you show a little gadget - there is no mention of this in the instructable. What is it and what does it do? You show it briefly in the video - (please forgive my limitations) but, I can not make out what you are saying about it. Please advise.

    Coolthanks for the reply

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  • RGB HexMatrix | IOT Clock

    Did you make that 96 LED bundle or can it be purchased that way?I have not found anything online that looks like that.

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  • How to Build a Giant Hidden Shelf Edge Clock

    I printed the sleeves upside down - ie: the "lens" flat down on the print bed, and the "shells" facing up. I re-engineered the lens to have a 2mm thickness, and printed them of natural color PLA. Layer height .3 at 6000mm/min. 35% rectilinear infill. After the lens printed, I let the printer run up to 3mm high and then paused the print, changed to a brown PLA and resumed the print. All of the interior structural parts were printed of ABS to facilitate easier bonding of parts.

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  • How to Build a Giant Hidden Shelf Edge Clock

    Hope you are staying safe with all this crazy virus bizniss going on.Very curious to know how you are doing with your shelf clock.I had lots of fun making mine.

    Up and running on the family room wall. The two switches (upper right corner) are in the power lines to the clock display and the down lights. The clock continues to run, but the lights and the display can be on or off to suit the use of the room.

    I have DIY's code loaded now, and it works just fine (tyvm). I don't mind the 000 at midnight anymore - in fact it amuses me. What I think is important is getting the clock display to always start at a designated time when a new battery is installed in the RTC. (my round clock does this because its specified in the sketch). I have the code, but I am not able to insert it into your sketch and have it verify. I think it has to do with the required library and proper syntax.I haven't learned enough, yet, to do this.When I learn how to do this, I will switch to your code for the clock.

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  • How to Build a Giant Hidden Shelf Edge Clock

    well midday at midnight is cool - how would you do that?

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  • How to Build a Giant Hidden Shelf Edge Clock

    You are correct - its not wrong - just a bit silly. But I can live with the zero display at midnight. Sorry about your printing issues. I am printing on a Maker Gear M2 and it breezed right thru all the printing. (I opted to make the shells of PLA and not use any wood filaments) ABS for all the structural parts as it is much easier to glue up.

    Hey osch - thanks for the feed back. by the way - I found a block of code that allows the setting of a specific time, within the sketch, to start the RTC at power up. I would like to add this in to the shelf clock sketch. I'd be glad to share this with you if you can help me figure out how to add it into the sketch.

    One more little thing - not really an error but a curiosity. I went into the code near the top of the sketch and changed the colors of the display. The hours set to Blue and the minutes set to Purple. Somewhere in the sketch this gets reversed - the minutes display as Blue and the hours display as Purple. More humorous than problematic, but it would be interesting to try debugging this.

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  • How to Build a Giant Hidden Shelf Edge Clock

    More correctly and concisely - if I program the clock in the AM - the Zero Hour display would occur at midnight. This renders the display glitch merely annoying - but still in need of a fix. Other than that, my shelf clock works fine.

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  • How to Build a Giant Hidden Shelf Edge Clock

    Finally got it done. Cool shelf. Thanks for an interesting instructable.

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  • How to Build a Giant Hidden Shelf Edge Clock

    hey osch - thanks for all your help. everything is working fine now. and I figured out how to change the colors of the display. peace.

    no more errors. I got it figured out. clock is working now. working on finishing it up.thanks for checking in on me.

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  • popi1854 commented on Draner's instructable 132 Pixel Clock
    132 Pixel Clock

    It was fun to make.Thank You for a great Instructable.

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  • popi1854 made the instructable 132 Pixel Clock
    132 Pixel Clock

    Sorry for the long delay.This clock has been running perfectly for a long time now!I get lots of comments on how cool it is. All frame parts 3D printed.

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  • How to Build a Giant Hidden Shelf Edge Clock

    No difference. I have solved my hardware and software issues. I can not get the shelf clock sketch to verify. It returns multiple errors on the IDE.

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  • How to Build a Giant Hidden Shelf Edge Clock

    This is my frame so far. I will finish the shelf 'shells' after I can get the clock to work.

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  • How to Build a Giant Hidden Shelf Edge Clock

    My shelf clock frame is made and ready. As I have solved the upload problem all I need is to load a shelf clock sketch that will not return this error: 'class Adafruit_NeoPixel' has no member named 'fill'This is highlighted on the line under digitNine in the digits sketch. The syntax seems to be the same as all the digits before it, but that's where the error highlight occurs.This is such a cool construct, and I really want to get it to work. The pixel string sketch that I am running now makes it look like a Broadway marquee!

    So now I am able to set the RTCnow when I try to upload the shelf clock sketch I get this:'class Adafruit_NeoPixel' has no member named 'fill'What to do now?

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  • How to Build a Giant Hidden Shelf Edge Clock

    So I've got the frame made and wired up - can not upload clock time set sketch or shelf program sketch. All I get is "problem uploading to board" error message. Any ideas of what might help?

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  • How to Build a Giant Hidden Shelf Edge Clock

    Cool project! I am making one now. Re-engineered most of the parts, and added a few to suit my requirements. I want my shelves to be open to the existing wall, plus - adding 2 switches so the down lights and/or the clock can be turned on and off.I'll let you know how it turns out.

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  • Nice toy, my grandchildren will love it.What I have found is that if I design parts with champhered and or radiused edges, it eliminates 90% of the filing and sanding. Another tip is to set the retraction on your printers hot end around 4 to 6 mm.

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      • VizTimer: the Electronic Hourglass
      • NeoPixel Reactive Table
      • 100 Watt Light Saber
  • I got all the exact same parts you had listed - except for the main board. I had (and used) an Arducam Pro Mini #B0026. Its a 16MHz with an Atmega328P-AU chip.

    After more testing, I found that the "disco" display at the end of the timer works up to 2 minutes and 15 seconds. When I set the timer for 2 minutes and 30 seconds - the LED's all fell in their proper sequence - and then all the LED's went off. When inverted - no cursor and no auto restart as with the lesser time values. Has anyone else had this happen? I read through the sketch, but I am not real good at programming (yet) to figure out if it is a code thing. This is a beautiful piece and will be a wonderful gift for my 5 year old granddaughter if I can solve the end time display issue.

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  • 3D printed hourglass - thanks for a wonderful project. Designing and printing the 3D enclosure was fun. Works great - except:Up to 2 minutes the display runs its course and makes the multi color blink for 15 seconds and then shuts off, and will auto restart when inverted. When I run it for 3 minutes, the display runs its course and then abruptly shuts off, and needs to be reset manually to work again. Not sure why this happens.

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  • VizTimer: the Electronic Hourglass

    3D printed hourglass - thanks for a wonderful project. Designing and printing the 3D enclosure was fun. Works great - except:Up to 2 minutes the display runs its course and makes the multi color blink for 15 seconds and then shuts off, and will auto restart when inverted. When I run it for 3 minutes, the display runs its course and then abruptly shuts off, and needs to be reset manually to work again. Not sure why this happens.

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  • popi1854 made the instructable Snake Puzzle - 3D Print
    Snake Puzzle - 3D Print

    Nice description, good print files. Easy to assemble with clear concise directions.Only took me about 5 hours to print and put together. Cool Toy!

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  • popi1854 commented on Draner's instructable 132 Pixel Clock

    I have been working on the clock. Its coming along nicely. I want to change the start color of the 60 second position and the 12 o'clock position to blue. Can you help me identify the line of code that will do this? and - or - can I do this?

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  • popi1854 commented on Draner's instructable 132 Pixel Clock

    I went into the IDE and read the sketch programthe instructable is correct - the error is in the Fritzing schematic

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  • popi1854 commented on Draner's instructable 132 Pixel Clock

    In the second photo - Step 4 - you show the LED's starting at the 12:00 position, which is also the sixty second and sixty minute position. I was wondering if the LED's should start from the "1" position?

    next question: in the instructable you show the data connections as; seconds to pin 3 - minutes to pin 4 and hours to pin 5.In the Fritzing schematic that you made, it shows pin 3 to hours and pin 5 to seconds.may I guess (and or assume) that the instructable is the correct version???

    OK - I think I get it. 60 and Zero are the same position.because the clock starts counting from zero - not 1 - yes??

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  • popi1854 commented on Draner's instructable 132 Pixel Clock

    I solved the upload issue - libraries were in the wrong place - put things where they needed to be and uploaded to the pro mini - no problemo - I am now working on a 3D print file for the clock face - I'll let you know how it turns out.

    The bottom right photo in step 5 shows a blue and a red wire from the end of the last hour LED (11 O'clock position) to the power connections. This is not shown on the schematic you included. The wires to minutes and seconds end at the end of the chain. Can you please explain?

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  • popi1854 commented on Draner's instructable 132 Pixel Clock

    when I try to load the NeoPixel Ring Clock program onto my pro mini - I get an error message that says:unterminated commentdo you know how can I fix this?

    So - I managed to fix the "unterminated comment" issuenow I get "error compiling for board Arduino Pro or Pro Mini"

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  • 3D printed box and knobs. I added a volume control on the right side so the kids would not drive Nana completely crazy. They love playing with it! And, by the by - I figured out the 'add a capacitor' hook up - just took a bit of research reading up on circuitry whys and hows. I figure you surmised that's what I (or anybody else here) would - and/or should - do.

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  • popi1854 commented on lonesoulsurfer's instructable Cigar Box Synth

    Waiting to see reply to Maurilio. Some of the instructions do not jive with the schematic. I'm going out on a limb and assuming that the schematic is correct - until otherwise advised.I made your fizzle synth - the kids love it - made the box and knobs on my 3D printer.Working on learning KiCad - so using this as an exercise in learning to create a printed circuit board. fun so far!

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  • OK - so I'm going to apologize for sounding like a whiner here - but you can't just say 'install a 100µf capacitor'. Can you please at least give a brief explanation of which way the polarity goes and what wires get connected??

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  • So I have already successfully loaded the main programs on the LCD and the ATtiny85. I guess that means I don't really need to mess with the others.

    So I have already successfully loaded the main programs on the LCD and the ATtiny85. I guess that means I don't really need to mess with the others.

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  • Thanks for the quick response. I'm a newbie at electronic stuff - but I learn fast. Thanks for the explanation on the pots. For the 'add a 100µf capacitor' I have questions. Does it go in the + or GND line? Which direction is the polarity of the capacitor? (i don't know enough yet to just 'know' how to install a capacitor, I need to see it in a schematic)

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  • the error message I am getting for the enroll example is:Error compiling for board Duemilanove or DiecimilaArduino: 1.8.5 (Windows 7), Board: "Arduino Duemilanove or Diecimila, ATmega328P"C:\Users\user11\Downloads\F24WRJCHW0FUO3Z\F24WRJCHW0FUO3Z.ino:10:25: fatal error: FPS_GT511C3.h: No such file or directory #include "FPS_GT511C3.h" ^compilation terminated.exit status 1Error compiling for board Arduino Duemilanove or Diecimila.This report would have more information with"Show verbose output during compilation"option enabled in File -> Preferences.

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  • So, I made this thing and its really quite cool to play with (and really quite annoying to some - which is actually quite hilarious!) You mentioned an out-put jack, but none is shown on the schematics. Am I correct in supposing that out-put should jump off of the leads to the speaker? (I am new at electronics and still have a lot to learn) I am a little bit confused with the wiring of the pots - the schematic only shows 2 connections, but the pot has 3 pins. Do you have a close up photo of how the pots get wired up?

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  • The Blink example and the Enroll example will not verify on my IDE.

    RE: my question on step 7 from 4 weeks ago - I am now able to, and have loaded the ATtiny85, and have loaded the Final Code for the LCD unit. So its not a hardware problem on my end - I suspect a software/sketch problem??

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  • I have tested the LCD with my Arduino Uno board and it works nicely. I have downloaded the files for the AT Tiny85 but can not load them onto the chip. I keep getting this error message from IDE: Invalid library found in C:\Users\user11\Documents\Arduino\libraries\ArduinoProjectHandbook_CodeandLibraries:

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  • Thanks for the quick response EGP. Good explanation - I 'get it' now!

    trying to figure out how the two circuits get wired/work together with two different power sources. do you have one diagram showing both circuits and the connection between the two circuits?

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  • again - thanks for the reply - but now its more complicated and difficult to understand. there is already resistors connected to FPS 2. your sketch was nice - but I need to see a complete corrected schematic diagram in order to understand this.

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  • thanks 4 the reply - your drawing is perfectly fine. you are showing the connection to FPS pin 1. the instructable says FPS pin two (which is connected to D11 with a 560 Ω resistor) is the note in the instructable incorrect?

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