Tell us about yourself!
Nice toy, my grandchildren will love it.What I have found is that if I design parts with champhered and or radiused edges, it eliminates 90% of the filing and sanding. Another tip is to set the retraction on your printers hot end around 4 to 6 mm.
I got all the exact same parts you had listed - except for the main board. I had (and used) an Arducam Pro Mini #B0026. Its a 16MHz with an Atmega328P-AU chip.
After more testing, I found that the "disco" display at the end of the timer works up to 2 minutes and 15 seconds. When I set the timer for 2 minutes and 30 seconds - the LED's all fell in their proper sequence - and then all the LED's went off. When inverted - no cursor and no auto restart as with the lesser time values. Has anyone else had this happen? I read through the sketch, but I am not real good at programming (yet) to figure out if it is a code thing. This is a beautiful piece and will be a wonderful gift for my 5 year old granddaughter if I can solve the end time display issue.
3D printed hourglass - thanks for a wonderful project. Designing and printing the 3D enclosure was fun. Works great - except:Up to 2 minutes the display runs its course and makes the multi color blink for 15 seconds and then shuts off, and will auto restart when inverted. When I run it for 3 minutes, the display runs its course and then abruptly shuts off, and needs to be reset manually to work again. Not sure why this happens.
Nice description, good print files. Easy to assemble with clear concise directions.Only took me about 5 hours to print and put together. Cool Toy!
I have been working on the clock. Its coming along nicely. I want to change the start color of the 60 second position and the 12 o'clock position to blue. Can you help me identify the line of code that will do this? and - or - can I do this?
I went into the IDE and read the sketch programthe instructable is correct - the error is in the Fritzing schematic
In the second photo - Step 4 - you show the LED's starting at the 12:00 position, which is also the sixty second and sixty minute position. I was wondering if the LED's should start from the "1" position?
next question: in the instructable you show the data connections as; seconds to pin 3 - minutes to pin 4 and hours to pin 5.In the Fritzing schematic that you made, it shows pin 3 to hours and pin 5 to seconds.may I guess (and or assume) that the instructable is the correct version???
OK - I think I get it. 60 and Zero are the same position.because the clock starts counting from zero - not 1 - yes??
The bottom right photo in step 5 shows a blue and a red wire from the end of the last hour LED (11 O'clock position) to the power connections. This is not shown on the schematic you included. The wires to minutes and seconds end at the end of the chain. Can you please explain?
I solved the upload issue - libraries were in the wrong place - put things where they needed to be and uploaded to the pro mini - no problemo - I am now working on a 3D print file for the clock face - I'll let you know how it turns out.
when I try to load the NeoPixel Ring Clock program onto my pro mini - I get an error message that says:unterminated commentdo you know how can I fix this?
So - I managed to fix the "unterminated comment" issuenow I get "error compiling for board Arduino Pro or Pro Mini"
3D printed box and knobs. I added a volume control on the right side so the kids would not drive Nana completely crazy. They love playing with it! And, by the by - I figured out the 'add a capacitor' hook up - just took a bit of research reading up on circuitry whys and hows. I figure you surmised that's what I (or anybody else here) would - and/or should - do.
Waiting to see reply to Maurilio. Some of the instructions do not jive with the schematic. I'm going out on a limb and assuming that the schematic is correct - until otherwise advised.I made your fizzle synth - the kids love it - made the box and knobs on my 3D printer.Working on learning KiCad - so using this as an exercise in learning to create a printed circuit board. fun so far!
OK - so I'm going to apologize for sounding like a whiner here - but you can't just say 'install a 100µf capacitor'. Can you please at least give a brief explanation of which way the polarity goes and what wires get connected??
So I have already successfully loaded the main programs on the LCD and the ATtiny85. I guess that means I don't really need to mess with the others.
Thanks for the quick response. I'm a newbie at electronic stuff - but I learn fast. Thanks for the explanation on the pots. For the 'add a 100µf capacitor' I have questions. Does it go in the + or GND line? Which direction is the polarity of the capacitor? (i don't know enough yet to just 'know' how to install a capacitor, I need to see it in a schematic)
the error message I am getting for the enroll example is:Error compiling for board Duemilanove or DiecimilaArduino: 1.8.5 (Windows 7), Board: "Arduino Duemilanove or Diecimila, ATmega328P"C:\Users\user11\Downloads\F24WRJCHW0FUO3Z\F24WRJCHW0FUO3Z.ino:10:25: fatal error: FPS_GT511C3.h: No such file or directory #include "FPS_GT511C3.h" ^compilation terminated.exit status 1Error compiling for board Arduino Duemilanove or Diecimila.This report would have more information with"Show verbose output during compilation"option enabled in File -> Preferences.
So, I made this thing and its really quite cool to play with (and really quite annoying to some - which is actually quite hilarious!) You mentioned an out-put jack, but none is shown on the schematics. Am I correct in supposing that out-put should jump off of the leads to the speaker? (I am new at electronics and still have a lot to learn) I am a little bit confused with the wiring of the pots - the schematic only shows 2 connections, but the pot has 3 pins. Do you have a close up photo of how the pots get wired up?
The Blink example and the Enroll example will not verify on my IDE.
RE: my question on step 7 from 4 weeks ago - I am now able to, and have loaded the ATtiny85, and have loaded the Final Code for the LCD unit. So its not a hardware problem on my end - I suspect a software/sketch problem??
I have tested the LCD with my Arduino Uno board and it works nicely. I have downloaded the files for the AT Tiny85 but can not load them onto the chip. I keep getting this error message from IDE: Invalid library found in C:\Users\user11\Documents\Arduino\libraries\ArduinoProjectHandbook_CodeandLibraries:
trying to figure out how the two circuits get wired/work together with two different power sources. do you have one diagram showing both circuits and the connection between the two circuits?
Thanks for the quick response EGP. Good explanation - I 'get it' now!
again - thanks for the reply - but now its more complicated and difficult to understand. there is already resistors connected to FPS 2. your sketch was nice - but I need to see a complete corrected schematic diagram in order to understand this.
thanks 4 the reply - your drawing is perfectly fine. you are showing the connection to FPS pin 1. the instructable says FPS pin two (which is connected to D11 with a 560 Ω resistor) is the note in the instructable incorrect?