rgrokett

The limitation is with the TM1637 Library being used. I see 6 digit libraries for Arduino, but not for Raspberry. https://github.com/TinyTronics/TM1637_6D

This appears to be coming from some unrelated program, possibly called either PayDay2 or CoreAMP_for_xzm_tw. Neither of those are needed or installed by Benbox package. You might look in the directory D:\CoreAMP_for_xzm_tw to see what filenames are in there to get a clue as to what program it is.Did you get this during the installation of the Benbox software (aka. EleksLaser) or did you get it when trying to run Benbox?

Understand this sensor resolution is only 8x8 that is interpolated to 32x32 pixel format here, a far cry from 1920x1200 pixels of a HDMI TV. (But from a distance, you will still see a heat image, just not very high res!)For an HDMI monitor, you probably should use the original Adafruit software only, as it doesn't use the touch screen menus that this version for the PiTFT has.https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-amg8833-8x8-thermal-camera-sensor/raspberry-pi-thermal-camera

I assume you can manually move the X/Y carriages reasonably easily while power is turned off and unplugged? (Too tight bands can bind the stepper motors). There are current adjustment potentiometers for each motor that may need adjusting.Last resort would be to loosen the bands to free the stepper motors and see if they rotate forward/backwards properly.

The message "Tuned to 137580000 Hz. <--------" is correct. RTL-SDR's have to offset themselves from center frequency due to a DC spike that they filter out. But then they actually "listen" on the frequency that you originally entered. This just moves the filter away from your tuned freq. I also use the V antenna, but mine is outside. See the comments below for my userid "rgrokett" to see the rtm_fm and wxtoimg cmds I use and notes about the antenna.

Here is the antenna I am using, up at 15 ft fed by CATV coax:https://www.rtl-sdr.com/simple-noaameteor-weather-...And my wxtoimg line in "receive_and_process_satellite.sh"sudo timeout $6 rtl_fm -M wfm -f ${2}M -s 60k -A fast -p 10 -E wav -E deemp -F 9 - | sox -t wav - $3.wav rate 11025/usr/local/bin/wxtoimg -m ${3}-map.png -e MSA $3.wav $3.color.pngRussell

I installed Apache2 to my Pi https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/remote-a...and added a subdirectory to the web site:$ sudo mkdir /var/www/html/NOAA/And then just added a line in "receive_and_process_satellite.sh"to move the image files over to the web directory: sudo mv $LatestColor /var/www/html/NOAA/I then just use a browser on my PC to go to http://192.168.1.xx/NOAA/

Welcome to the world of VIM the VI editor. Being new, I suggest to use only the NANO editor. It lists the commands at the bottom of the screen. $ sudo nano /etc/modprobe.d/no-rtl.confThen to exit, type Control-X It will ask to save Y/N

In the video, I did see that when you unplug USB, the laser & servos stop. That sounds like a driver or gcode initialization issue. Try this: unplug usb,reboot computer, plug in cable but don't start any laser app. The driver should load but nothing sent to the Nano. Turn on the laser power. If it still starts the laser and the motors, then something is weird with the driver on the PC. Uninstall the driver, reboot and plug the USB back in. If it still shows in Device Mgr, then there is another driver loading and maybe conflicting.If turning on the laser w/o running any app seems ok, then it appears that the app is sending gcode down to the nano that it cannot interpret properly. Note that uninstalling the apps probably leaves behind (mangled?) settings/config files or registry setti...

In the video, I did see that when you unplug USB, the laser & servos stop. That sounds like a driver or gcode initialization issue. Try this: unplug usb,reboot computer, plug in cable but don't start any laser app. The driver should load but nothing sent to the Nano. Turn on the laser power. If it still starts the laser and the motors, then something is weird with the driver on the PC. Uninstall the driver, reboot and plug the USB back in. If it still shows in Device Mgr, then there is another driver loading and maybe conflicting.If turning on the laser w/o running any app seems ok, then it appears that the app is sending gcode down to the nano that it cannot interpret properly. Note that uninstalling the apps probably leaves behind (mangled?) settings/config files or registry settings. Lastly, be sure to check out http://benboxlaser.us/

Did you try reinstalling the Firmware (see Step 5 above) into the Arduino Nano? Note that sometimes it can get corrupted during install, so unplug USB & power, then plug back in and reload firmware again.I believe the laserGRBL and BenBox use different firmware from each other, so the Arduino nano must have the matching firmware for that particular program.Also, be sure the "Weak" laser button is NOT pressed in before burning.

You can look at:https://www.drivethelife.com/windows-10/insufficie...

NOTE: If you do not see your Laser's COM port in Benbox, even after unplugging and re-plugging and stopping Benbox and restarting, then your Firewall may be blocking the "laserdaemon.exe" background process.Temporarily turn off your Windows Firewall from the Control Panel. Run Benbox.exe as Administrator.Quit it again and then Run it a second time.This time, look for the Serial Port COM for the Laser. Now you can turn the Firewall back on (you can use the "Use Recommended Settings" button, if asked.)This should update the Firewall rules for the laserdaemon process so should be fine now.Repeat this process if a Windows update causes the Benbox to quit showing the COM port again.

Looks like the Time Libraries have changed with newer Arduino IDE... You need to change line 20 #include <Time.h> to #include <TimeLib.h>If you happen to be missing the newer Time Library, the source is available at:https://github.com/PaulStoffregen/Time(You should be able to download it as a Zip and import it into Arduino IDE Sketch->Include Libraries -> Add ZIP File. String.h is an Arduino IDE built-in library and does not even need to be called as an #include, so you could just comment it out, if you get a compiler complaint. I have updated the code in https://github.com/rgrokett/GSM_SIM900_Arduino

To support Spanish, I believe you would need to change the Text to Speech engine from Flite to Festival as I don't believe Flite supports Spanish. I think Tesseract OCR would support Spanish, but you would need to add the language package and also change the tesseract command in the pitextreader.py slightly:$ sudo apt-get install tesseract-ocr-spacmd = "/usr/bin/tesseract -l spa /tmp/image.jpg /tmp/text"Changing the program to use festival instead of flite is a little more involved, but if you experiment with the command line version of festival and then substitute it for the flite commands in pitextreader.py it should work. http://www.cstr.ed.ac.uk/projects/festival/If you have used GitHub, you could fork it and modify your copy for others to use. https://github.com/rgrokett/...

To support Spanish, I believe you would need to change the Text to Speech engine from Flite to Festival as I don't believe Flite supports Spanish. I think Tesseract OCR would support Spanish, but you would need to add the language package and also change the tesseract command in the pitextreader.py slightly:$ sudo apt-get install tesseract-ocr-spacmd = "/usr/bin/tesseract -l spa /tmp/image.jpg /tmp/text"Changing the program to use festival instead of flite is a little more involved, but if you experiment with the command line version of festival and then substitute it for the flite commands in pitextreader.py it should work. http://www.cstr.ed.ac.uk/projects/festival/If you have used GitHub, you could fork it and modify your copy for others to use. https://github.com/rgrokett/PiTextReader

By heightening the arm holding the camera, a larger field of view is available. While assembling, just hold the camera at various heights and run the test.sh program to take photos. BUT, two issues: The OCR takes about 1 second per line of text, so full pages could take a couple minutes to convert before speaking. Also, too small a font can't be resolved by the camera."Real" (i.e. expensive) readers use flatbed scanners to scan in and then OCR the document using a more powerful computer (laptop). Microsoft does offer a free app for iphone (maybe android, too) called SeeingAI which is amazing, but requires relatively tech savy use of smartphone and Internet connection or cellular data. https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/seeing-ai/

Just posted a short demo at

I've used it for examining electrical plugs & wall warts, water heaters, candles, smoldering embers, car engines and lamps, but I would not consider it reliable enough for things like doors and windows. Not enough temperature variation typically. I would say this is more useful for science experiments and other hacks. For home use, I just use the $29 black & decker tld100 thermal leak detector http://a.co/iS3sQMC The FLIR, besides being expensive, is probably overkill unless you are doing professional work, though the FLIR One Gen III at $199 looks like a good deal.

Yes, you can see some more settings available in Benbox for burning photo images in JPG format at https://youtu.be/OMnQ-DFJnbg

Excellent! I have a Pi cam sitting here idle now. Are you going to publish on Instructable or Github ?

Looks like a Raspberry Pi Zero will work, though it is definitely slower, but still usable. Setup is basically the same, with very little software differences. I have initial instructions at:https://github.com/rgrokett/RaspiThermalCam/tree/m...

The problem is that the Far Infrared sensors are very expensive. This project's AMG8833 from Panasonic is billed as "advanced motion detector", not really as a FLIR replacement. A normal motion detector is basically one bit (on/off). This one is 64 bit (actually 8x8 matrix) which, with math that Adafruit added, generates a usable image, if no where near a FLIR. (but costs ~$40 instead of >$400). Also, its range is limited to about 25 feet or so.Worse, Far IR lenses are rather exotic since glass & most plastics are opaque to that wavelength. Individual parts (sensor, lens, electronics, etc.) end up being back into the hundreds of dollars. So far, the best use I have seen with this is looking for heat/cold leaks around the house. Like how much heat is lost with our ol...

The problem is that the Far Infrared sensors are very expensive. This project's AMG8833 from Panasonic is billed as "advanced motion detector", not really as a FLIR replacement. A normal motion detector is basically one bit (on/off). This one is 64 bit (actually 8x8 matrix) which, with math that Adafruit added, generates a usable image, if no where near a FLIR. (but costs ~$40 instead of >$400). Also, its range is limited to about 25 feet or so.Worse, Far IR lenses are rather exotic since glass & most plastics are opaque to that wavelength. Individual parts (sensor, lens, electronics, etc.) end up being back into the hundreds of dollars. So far, the best use I have seen with this is looking for heat/cold leaks around the house. Like how much heat is lost with our old water heater and looking for faulty wiring or "wall warts".

I was planning to try switching out the Pi 3 for a Pi Zero W right after I finish building the Pi 3 version. Besides being smaller and cheaper, battery drain should also be less. How compatible it is with driving the piTFT display is the main question. I hope to start on it by next week.

Interesting. It is possible that the ESP8266WiFi library has been updated to build in necessary delay() or yield() to allow for WiFi interrupts to occur. Also, differences in ESP modules appear to impact the Arduino IDE compiled code vs LUA coding. That is one reason I stick with the Adafruit HUZZAH (Espressif-based ESP-12), as it appears to be more reliable, even if more expensive, vs. Ai-Thinker and other 3rd party manufacturers. Noisy power is their worse enemy, so Adafruit added several capacitors in key spots, though, I add more, particularly with the interference that steppers and servos generate. Just FYI, here is some docs from ESP8266 concerning this."There is a watchdog timer in the ESP8266 that will reset the processor if you keep it busy too long. Put lots of yield() or...

Interesting. It is possible that the ESP8266WiFi library has been updated to build in necessary delay() or yield() to allow for WiFi interrupts to occur. Also, differences in ESP modules appear to impact the Arduino IDE compiled code vs LUA coding. That is one reason I stick with the Adafruit HUZZAH (Espressif-based ESP-12), as it appears to be more reliable, even if more expensive, vs. Ai-Thinker and other 3rd party manufacturers. Noisy power is their worse enemy, so Adafruit added several capacitors in key spots, though, I add more, particularly with the interference that steppers and servos generate. Just FYI, here is some docs from ESP8266 concerning this."There is a watchdog timer in the ESP8266 that will reset the processor if you keep it busy too long. Put lots of yield() or delay(0) statement in your program to keep this from happening. Note, delays with values greater than zero (delay(10) for example) are fine."If you want to verify ESP modules, there is a list at:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ESP8266

Is this with the servos connected? You can try repeatedly running commands that do not run the servos, such as$ curl -v http://192.168.x.x/ # the ESP's IP address or you can disconnect the servos and run the testmotors.sh repeatedly.$ ./testmotors.sh # edit it to add your ESP IP addressYou may need to set up a script to run them dozens of times. The webserver is built into the library ESP8266WiFi from Arduino dev group and is pretty simplistic. If repeatedly running web commands without failure, then reconnect the servos and run testmotors.sh again repeatedly. Servos generate large voltage spikes on the power leads which ESP8266's don't like. I suggest adding .01uf & 10uf capacitors between +5v and GND and +12v and GND. (The HUZZAH has capacitors already, but doesn't hurt ...

Is this with the servos connected? You can try repeatedly running commands that do not run the servos, such as$ curl -v http://192.168.x.x/ # the ESP's IP address or you can disconnect the servos and run the testmotors.sh repeatedly.$ ./testmotors.sh # edit it to add your ESP IP addressYou may need to set up a script to run them dozens of times. The webserver is built into the library ESP8266WiFi from Arduino dev group and is pretty simplistic. If repeatedly running web commands without failure, then reconnect the servos and run testmotors.sh again repeatedly. Servos generate large voltage spikes on the power leads which ESP8266's don't like. I suggest adding .01uf & 10uf capacitors between +5v and GND and +12v and GND. (The HUZZAH has capacitors already, but doesn't hurt to add more.) Also, I used an old laptop power supply for 12v and 5v as the servos can need several amps during steps. The servos can also shake the wiring during stepping, which can cause intermittent loss of power (and thus crashes). Soldering connections is best, otherwise make sure connections are solid.

First, you would need a arduino/esp8266 library compatible with the OLED display (example: https://github.com/squix78/esp8266-oled-ssd1306)You need to use one that uses I2C interface because of limited pins on the ESP8266.Then, you would need to add a bit of extra code to the AltAzPointer.ino like:else if (req.indexOf("/oled/text") != -1) {String text = getValue(req);x = 1;y = 1;drawString(x, y, text);respMsg = "OK: TEXT = "+text;}Then call the ESP8266 web server using a URL like:* http://{ip_address}/oled/text?HELLO%20WORLDThere are hardware changes needed to free up the I2C pins.You will have to move the LED from GPIO pin #4 to pin #0 Also, you will need to move pin #5 to pin #2.Then in AltAzPointer.ino, change those pins:int STBY = 2; // GPIO 2 TB6612 Stand...

First, you would need a arduino/esp8266 library compatible with the OLED display (example: https://github.com/squix78/esp8266-oled-ssd1306)You need to use one that uses I2C interface because of limited pins on the ESP8266.Then, you would need to add a bit of extra code to the AltAzPointer.ino like:else if (req.indexOf("/oled/text") != -1) {String text = getValue(req);x = 1;y = 1;drawString(x, y, text);respMsg = "OK: TEXT = "+text;}Then call the ESP8266 web server using a URL like:* http://{ip_address}/oled/text?HELLO%20WORLDThere are hardware changes needed to free up the I2C pins.You will have to move the LED from GPIO pin #4 to pin #0 Also, you will need to move pin #5 to pin #2.Then in AltAzPointer.ino, change those pins:int STBY = 2; // GPIO 2 TB6612 Standbyint LEDIN = 0; // GPIO 0 (built-in LED)int LEDEX = 0; // GPIO 0 External LED

I would strongly suggest switching to the deep sleep version https://github.com/rgrokett/ESP8266_PIRv2 though it takes a bit more hardware wiring. Using that, a set of AA batteries lasts about 6 months w/o recharging. If space is available, a 6v lantern battery or D batteries would last 1 or 2 years or more. Otherwise, you would need a charging converter for the solar panel so that the batteries could charge and also run the ESP/PIR at the same time. I haven't attempted that, since the deep-sleep works reliably. If you use the Adafruit HUZZAH ESP8266, you do not need to convert the power, as it includes a 3-6v regulator and has a 3.3v output for the PIR along with UART stuff. Its worth the price for the extra ease of implementation.

I updated the docs for the IFTTT Webhooks change. I wasn't able to reproduce the functions error in the .ino, but I went ahead and relocated the functions anyway. The .ino compiled for me either way. I am using Arduino IDE v1.8.5 Just FYI, I have been able to get about 6 months use from 4AA batteries on the PIRv2 version with hundreds of IFTTT message sent over that time. (They only lasted a week with the previous v1 version). Deep Sleep makes BIG difference!. Thanks!

I saw same invalid date error. Found that weather.tle file was empty. Reran schedule_all.sh again and saw that weather.txt and weather.tle was now populated. Suspect wget failed first time. You can add the following to the schedule_satellite.sh: to turn on debug:#!/bin/bashset -xThen run the schedule_all.sh and see if you see PREDICTION_START and PREDICTION_END populated:+ PREDICTION_START='1507371700 Sat 07Oct17...+ PREDICTION_END='1507371968 Sat 07Oct17...

It is available in the EleksLaserSoftware.zip file. Just look for LX.hexhttp://download.appinthestore.com/201606/EleksLase...Links are also available on the BenBoxLaser.us site http://benboxlaser.us/

My best guess is that the firmware has become corrupted in the Arduino nano controller. I suggest reloading the firmware (see Step 5 and Step 6 above). If that fails to resolve this, You probably need to jump over to the benboxlaser.us forum and post a message (or search existing ones for similar issues/solutions). See Step 10 Troubleshooting for link and signup instructions.

Benbox software can use .dxf, .svg .gif and .jpg formats (possibly others, too.) The PPM setting controls how big something is printed. I usually leave it at 320.0 (see image below) You can use the free Inkscape program to resize and convert file format, but it does have a bit of a learning curve, so be sure to read the docs. https://inkscape.org/en/

The GSM SIM900 Shield plugs into the Arduino and then you can connect the three PIR wires to the corresponding pins on the GSM's pass thru connectors. Below is a schematic (doesn't show the GSM board on top of the Uno, but the pins are identical.)Note that the LED and its 220ohm resistor are optional and not required. Plug the Arduino into a 5V power supply which will automatically power the GSM board and PIR sensor.See Step 5 above for more details.

Just FYI for Raspian Jessie, to turn off the Serial Console and turn on the SPI interface, you can just use raspi-config:$ sudo raspi-config Select Advanced Options -> Serial -> No (disable)Then Advanced Options -> SPI -> Yes (enable) & Yes again (load kernel module)Select Finish and RebootYou can now skip all of Step 2.Check the port using:$ sudo stty -F /dev/ttyAMA0speed 9600 baud; line = 0;-brkint -imaxbelFor further info, try the Adafruit tutorialhttps://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-ultimate-gps-hat-for-raspberry-pi/use-gpsd

I've found that exporting in .DXF file format seems to keep the correct size. What format(s) did you try?

IMPORTANT NOTE! The power regulator on the Adafruit HUZZAH ESP8266 board has CHANGED. It no longer can handle 12v DC. A 6VDC 2amp power supply to feed the V+ and the Stepper now required! The lower voltage will drop the torque, but will still step. Alternately, use separate 12v for stepper and 3.3v to 6v for ESP8266.I will update the docs here.Older HUZZAH ESP8266's included a 3-12v regulator, so are unaffected.

I suggest jumping over to the Benbox Laser forum http://benboxlaser.us/ You will need a free Registration key to sign up. Just search the messages for Driver issues. There's lots of hints and help there.

Another problem with USB COM communication is that newer Antivirus software includes USB virus scanners. This could be causing issues with the COM port driver installation and use, so you might have to turn off Antivirus temporarily.

Software from GITHUB: https://github.com/rgrokett/GSM_SIM900_Arduino

Utilizo Inkscape en lugar de Benbox para crear SVG.No sé cómo guardar Benbox. https://inkscape.org/es/

No, the web server on the ESP shouldn't run out of memory. I've been running a similar application (Space Station (ISS) Trackerhttps://github.com/rgrokett/ESP8266_ISSPointer ) for many months without a reset. My best guess is that the power supply is insufficient or a loose connection. If the stepper vibrates the wiring, it can intermittently break a connection causing the ESP to hang. I had this problem until I soldered all the connections.

I see that the Forum has had to change their sign up due to spammers:http://benboxlaser.us/index.php/topic,1087.0.html

Just a note, looks like the manufacturer changed the circuit design of the Moon in My Room consolidating the control circuits directly into the LED strip.To get mine to work, I had to snip the SMD resistors connecting to each LED, and solder wires there. Also, the LEDs are now connected to +5v line on their circuit board, so I had to connect that to +5v on the Arduino, instead of GND. I then had to invert the GPIO pin logic to get the pins to go LOW to light the LEDs. (0 = on, 1 = off)void lightLeds (int L6, int L5, int L4, int L3, int L2, int L1) {// New (2016-11) "Moon in my Room" requires reverse logic)digitalWrite (led1, 1-L1);digitalWrite (led2, 1-L2);digitalWrite (led3, 1-L3);digitalWrite (led4, 1-L4);digitalWrite (led5, 1-L5);digitalWrite (led6, 1-L6);}...but it does wo...

Just a note, looks like the manufacturer changed the circuit design of the Moon in My Room consolidating the control circuits directly into the LED strip.To get mine to work, I had to snip the SMD resistors connecting to each LED, and solder wires there. Also, the LEDs are now connected to +5v line on their circuit board, so I had to connect that to +5v on the Arduino, instead of GND. I then had to invert the GPIO pin logic to get the pins to go LOW to light the LEDs. (0 = on, 1 = off)void lightLeds (int L6, int L5, int L4, int L3, int L2, int L1) {// New (2016-11) "Moon in my Room" requires reverse logic)digitalWrite (led1, 1-L1);digitalWrite (led2, 1-L2);digitalWrite (led3, 1-L3);digitalWrite (led4, 1-L4);digitalWrite (led5, 1-L5);digitalWrite (led6, 1-L6);}...but it does work!

If you are following the instructable at https://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Laser-Cutter/#step5 and step 6, and cannot install the belt, you will probably have to disassemble it from the side gantries so that you can install the belt bolts.

Not sure if you resolved this (sounded like you have a reversed Z axis motor, going up instead of down), but here's a video that might help for normal Z axis alignment and leveling portion of the build.

I purchased the ANET Prusa i3 from Gearbest. At the time, they offered free air freight shipping and arrived within a week. I found the YouTube videos were great for assembling. (There are 3 videos. Be sure to locate the Anet Debugging video for final work.) Assembly was about 6 hrs over 3 days, taking my time. No significant issues with the build, but it isn't for a beginner. Watch thru the videos without actually assembling, just collecting the parts. Z axis setting and bed leveling wasn't really as difficult as I first thought. Just take time to be careful. First print (and every print since) using PLA has been fine. I use CURA software and the setup guide: http://www.grokett.com/files/3dprinter/How%20to%20...Construction Video: