rober!

If no one has suggested it to you yet, The Wooden Canoe Heritage Association (http://www.wcha.org) is the place to go for anything to do with wood and canvas canoes.Randy Ober

In the instructions you say: "bloom your one packet of yeast with 1/2 of warm water": is that "1/2 of the water" or "1/2 cup" of the water?

I think it is a vise for sharpening hand saws.

There is an easier way to make the board.Now, I just hope I can explain this clearly enough ;-)1) Cut four (4) strips of each color of your chosen materials. The strips should all be long enough to be cut into eight (8) strips the same width as the individual strips of wood.2) Cut four (4) pieces of one color (to make a frame for the board) the same width as the finished squares of the board.3) Alternating the colored strips (light, dark, light, dark, etc.) glue the strips‘ long edge to long edge. You will have eight (8) strips glued together.4) When the glue has dried, cut this “blank” into eight (8) strips of squares of alternating colors.5) To create the checkerboard, flip every other of these new strips end to end.6) Glue these strips toget…

There is an easier way to make the board.Now, I just hope I can explain this clearly enough ;-)1) Cut four (4) strips of each color of your chosen materials. The strips should all be long enough to be cut into eight (8) strips the same width as the individual strips of wood.2) Cut four (4) pieces of one color (to make a frame for the board) the same width as the finished squares of the board.3) Alternating the colored strips (light, dark, light, dark, etc.) glue the strips‘ long edge to long edge. You will have eight (8) strips glued together.4) When the glue has dried, cut this “blank” into eight (8) strips of squares of alternating colors.5) To create the checkerboard, flip every other of these new strips end to end.6) Glue these strips together to create the checkerboard effect.7) Glue the frame pieces around the assembled board.For a clearer explanation, complete with illustrations, refer to the ‘Ible Solid Wood Chess-boardBy SlickSqueegie in WorkshopWoodworking

Actually, pipe dope would probably be better. Teflon pipe tape Can not be used for gas pipe connections by code because of this.N. B. I am not a licensed plumber but I have been told this by many different plumbers who are licensed.

You do know that in Step 2, your measurement suffers from 2 problems that MIGHT create inaccuracies? Both problem stem from the fact that the picture shows the tape butted up against the plate of the saw blade.1. This ignores the kerf of the saw cut introduced by the set of the teeth of the saw.2. Most people ignore the inaccuracies of the hook at the end of a steel tap measure. Check your tape measure, you will see it only loosely attached to the blade of the tape. That is to allow for space it takes up when doing an inside measurement. The question everyone needs to check to see if the tape measures the same whether butting the end of the tape measure to an inside corner or stretching it over the outside corner of the edge of the piece of wood that is being measured. Theoretically, you …

You do know that in Step 2, your measurement suffers from 2 problems that MIGHT create inaccuracies? Both problem stem from the fact that the picture shows the tape butted up against the plate of the saw blade.1. This ignores the kerf of the saw cut introduced by the set of the teeth of the saw.2. Most people ignore the inaccuracies of the hook at the end of a steel tap measure. Check your tape measure, you will see it only loosely attached to the blade of the tape. That is to allow for space it takes up when doing an inside measurement. The question everyone needs to check to see if the tape measures the same whether butting the end of the tape measure to an inside corner or stretching it over the outside corner of the edge of the piece of wood that is being measured. Theoretically, you can SOMETIMES compensate for the space by bending the hook either a little bit more or less.Now, I know some people are going to say this is picking insignificant nits. But think about it, would you trust your life to a boat built where every measurement can be off by as much as 1/8”, creating that big of a gap between pieces of the hull that are supposed tto keep the water out and you afloatt?

We had to have our house shutoff (aka water meter isolation valves) replaced but the plumber could not find the curb box to turn off the supply to the house. His solution was to use dry ice to freeze the water in the house's supply line. He left the ice on the line for about 45 minutes, and the was able to replace both valves and also install a whole-house pressure regulator. When the water then thawed everything was back to normal. I was worried about the pipe bursting, but since the ice was able to "push" the water back towards the water main in the street, no excess pressure was created.

To: audreyobscura & SchermpjeTake a look at http://www.hilltopperbikes.com for a system that mounts the motor in the front wheel. Let me say, one problem with putting the motor in the REAR wheel is that that location eliminates the ability to peddle while using the motor. If you order a Hilltopper system; if you type the code randallober in the coupon box and I can get a referral fee :-)

Nicely done!!For those interested in plans (and parts) for cars, trucks, and military vehicles (and lots more); try http://www.toysandjoys.com. They have plans and kits for all skill levels, and some of the vehicles made by some of the craftspeolpe who have submitted pictures, all I can say is "WOW!!"

Neither of you mentioned it and you may already know about it but the Wooden Canoe Heritage Association <<wcha.org>> is a huge resource for restoration information. There is so much info that it is amazing.

For the non-U.K. folks amoung us, what is "CLS"?And a suggestion for all Instructible presenters, could you please define any abbreviations you use?

What do you think of the idea of running the wall mounted parts of the French cleat the full length of a wall and spacing them about 10—12 inches apart vertically?

A question that has been bothering me about this project: I assume you must be quite accurate when cutting out the pieces; this being said, does it matter whether you cut to the outside of the lines thus leaving the lines on the pieces; or do you cut to the inside of the lines and remove them?

When I made my first insert, I traced the outline of the metal insert that came with the saw. If you leave the line when you cut it to shape, a little judicious sanding will give you that exact fit you want. While you're at it, Make about a half dozen or so to use with your dado blade, too.

How about once you have the angle cut on the top of one leg, take a piece of thin plywood (or other thin material) and trace and cut the profile of the leg on the ply (duplicating the taper) and just use it to layout the cut lines on the other three legs for this sawhorse and to make more legs for more sawhorses.

Actual Question Received by a Reference Librarian:Patron: I am looking for a globe of the earth.Reference Desk Worker: We have a table-top model over here.Patron: No, that's not good enough. Don't you have a life size?Reference Desk Worker (after a short pause): Yes, but it's in use right now

I forget where I found this but…Solar System Described as Fruits and Vegetables:Sun. A 1 foot Pumpkin. Distance (in feet) from the PumpkinMercury. A Tomato Seed. 50Venus. A Pea. 75Earth. A Pea. 100Mars. A Small Raisin. 175Jupiter. An Apple. 550Saturn. A Peach. 1,025Uranus. A Plum. 2,050Neptune. A Plum. 3,225Pluto stays in the 'fridge.

How about: when the screw sticks up out of the wood, clamping a pair of vice grips onto the screw and using the extra leverage gained?