rundmcarlson

Why would you do that? Just paint the wood with a sealant. Buying cutting boards to use as building supplies is nonsense.

Lamp shades are made of paper and incandescent lights have far greater heat output. You aren't being logically consistent if you think this is dangerous but lampshades aren't. Your plastic example has no relevance either. The flashpoint of wood is over 500 degrees F, while the most commonly used plastics melt between 200-300F. You are fear mongering and nothing more.Telling people not to do this even with "cooling tech" just shows how little you are actually thinking about this. If you are removing the heat, it has absolutely no danger of setting something on fire.

This isnt true at all. My property taxes are on the value of the property, and dont include my home or any of my assets/structures on my property. People avoid permits because they are time consuming to obtain and make things more expensive because they bring your changes to light and force you to follow standards instead of taking cheaper shortcuts.Many standards, stipulations, and permits are not required if the structure is not habitable (like a storage shed). If it needs a cert of occupancy, thats when most of the permits and inspections come into play (depending on where you live).

How long does the battery last?

Must have missed it. Thanks

Nice ad disguised as an instructable.

They would cancel at the tip but past the tip they would still continue on. It would be near impossible to get them to interfere at the tip and all distances past the tip, but not from the base to the tip.

It would be neat to have the uppermost areas as drawers instead of lifting the whole top (usability wise it means clearing off the whole desk to get at the pc). If you could fit the whole motherboard, and hdds in a drawer (even one without sides) the psu could still go in the back portion of the desk (under your lid) and the wires should have enough slack to slide the drawer out for testing or swapping parts. Might also be a good emergency measure in case things start to overheat (maybe a fan stops working or something). Being able to expose the board to ambient air at a moments notice might be beneficial. Anyway, great job and a nice design or inspiration point for others to use.

Not really sure how well it would sell given the fact that someone would quickly come along with a large touchscreen pc version very quickly is it were a popular idea. At that point all the time, effort and money spent to develop this into a shippable product will have been wasted.

You probably dont even need the word office in the title. Corner desk adequately describes what it is and if you are using it for prototyping that describes its use better than office desk anyway

You should really emphasize the need for high discharge rate batteries. If someone tried to do this with a non protected lithium battery that is not rated at a high enough discharge rate, the battery could heat up and explode. The discharge rate is the 3C or 4C you mention. Some drills can suck down a lot of current at once.

If hes using a 5V solar panel the car charger seems to be almost entirely pointless and is only really useful for the usb port itself.

While thats great, any ICs or other parts can be purchased online, and usually cheaper than the parts that are used in this instructable. The biggest issue with this though is that its effectively useless unless you want to charge something very slowly with it powered down. The solar panel is only 200 mA, which is less than half what a normal usb socket puts out (and thats under ideal full sunlight). Most phones require 1-1.5A to charge at any reasonable rate, and will take forever to charge at 500mA on a regular usb port. At less than half of that, your phone will not actually "charge" while its on. You will continue to lose battery (albeit a little slower). A simple battery inside the housing would allow the panel to charge up a battery, which can then supply the proper curren…

While thats great, any ICs or other parts can be purchased online, and usually cheaper than the parts that are used in this instructable. The biggest issue with this though is that its effectively useless unless you want to charge something very slowly with it powered down. The solar panel is only 200 mA, which is less than half what a normal usb socket puts out (and thats under ideal full sunlight). Most phones require 1-1.5A to charge at any reasonable rate, and will take forever to charge at 500mA on a regular usb port. At less than half of that, your phone will not actually "charge" while its on. You will continue to lose battery (albeit a little slower). A simple battery inside the housing would allow the panel to charge up a battery, which can then supply the proper current at a reliable voltage. This also would enable you to store the sunlight even if you don't need a charge at that moment. Without some sort of regulation to keep the current and voltage stable, your device might behave strangely while plugged into this.Most importantly, if you are doing these things with your kids PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE make sure everyone is wearing safety glasses. Its one of the most overlooked things because people think "its just soldering", but there are 2 people I am acquainted with who are blind in one eye because solder was flicked into their eye while trying to desolder a wire (which is what is being done at one step in this instructable). Solder is metal at 700 or so degrees and it will do heavy damage to any unprotected sensitive body parts.

fusion 360 has a free yearly license for personal use or startups http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/try-buy

You need a bridge rectifier, or sets of diodes/rectifiers that bring the flow from both halves of the wave to the device, removing your flicker. This image shows what I mean: https://www.elprocus.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/0...If you really want efficient bulbs, its not hard to make them yourself. If you can etch boards and buy some surface mount LEDs, you can get many high efficiency LEDs that you simply have to solder down. The circuit that runs it can use a simple switched-mode power supply or a "joule thief" style circuit that you can control the flicker rate. If your "joule thief" flickers higher than 200Hz you won't even notice it flickering, but you are still saving some power by having it flicker.

The reason "100W was 100W" is because incandescent is just electricity running through a long thin loop of tungsten (because resistance increases with length and decreases with surface area). The high resistance makes the tungsten hot and it glows. Since the heated tungsten always creates the same light intensity at a given wattage, there is no difference between brands. LEDs on the other hand work in a fundamentally different manner. Not only that, but there are varying degrees of efficiency in LED designs. This leads to different lumen output at different wattage.Ultimately, the use of Watts as a measurement for lightbulbs is somewhat stupid in this age. Watts only measure the power usage of the device, not its brightness. Thats why LED, CFL, and incandescent all put out diffe…

The reason "100W was 100W" is because incandescent is just electricity running through a long thin loop of tungsten (because resistance increases with length and decreases with surface area). The high resistance makes the tungsten hot and it glows. Since the heated tungsten always creates the same light intensity at a given wattage, there is no difference between brands. LEDs on the other hand work in a fundamentally different manner. Not only that, but there are varying degrees of efficiency in LED designs. This leads to different lumen output at different wattage.Ultimately, the use of Watts as a measurement for lightbulbs is somewhat stupid in this age. Watts only measure the power usage of the device, not its brightness. Thats why LED, CFL, and incandescent all put out different amounts of light and at different watts. At one point I'm sure people only cared about how much electricity the bulb uses, but now the amount of actual light (lumens) is a far more important metric to make sure you get bright enough lights.