Tell us about yourself!
Hi, you could also just change the quick release part (the handle) with a nut. It might be nescesary to change the whole axle, but in most cases that's not the case.
Getting Started with Electronics
I haven't thought of botulinum, yes that could be a problem. My parents have been jarring beans and other vegetables my whole life in an ordinary cooker and we're all still alive :). The thing is that those beans get cooked before consumption, so the toxins get destroyed (the toxin gets destroyed at temperatures above 80 degrees Celsius). As this sauce isn't being cooked, IT'S BETTER TO FREEZE IT!Thanks for pointing out my mistake.
You could also put the sauce into the jars while hot. Then close them and put them in almost boiling water for about ten minutes. This way you don't need to keep them in the freezer.
I''m not selling them and I haven't found anything similar on the internet, but you can fairly easily make your own using this instructable :)If you would like to have the exact same mouse (without the left-right switch of course, you can order it were I did: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Onfine-Leo-Brand-N...Just one note; the scroll wheel on this mouse isn't the best, but it's working.
It will block most of the visible light and let most of the (near) IR light through. Some red light will also pass through. You can improve the visible light blocking by using multiple layers, but this does also make less IR light get through.I've read somewhere that you can also use the inside of a floppy disk (the actual disk) as a IR pass filter. I haven't tried this, but it's said to work very good.
It will block most of the visible light and let most of the (near) uv light through. Some red light will also pass through. You can improve the visible light blocking by using multiple layers, but this does also make less uv light get through.I've read somewhere that you can also use the inside of a floppy disk (the actual disk) as a uv pass filter. I haven't tried this, but it's said to work very good.
Yes you're right, it should be exposed, not unexposed. Thanks for correcting me.
You can block the visible light by putting a piece of unexposed film in front of the sensor. You can find this at the start or end of a negative film strip.
Maybe it's commercially unattractive to manufacture this type of mouse, although it's not a very big added expense since the switch costs as little as $0,10 on AliExpress. Maybe nobody in the mouse industry has thought of it.
I got mine from the local electronics shop. Probably every shop that sells electronic components has them. You can also order them from Ebay or AliExpress, just search for dpdt sliding switch.
Thanks! I've been thinking about making a mouse that can swap the buttons for some time already, but I didn't know how to do it until I accidentally stumbled upon these dpdt switches.
Truly ambidextrous mouseView Instructable »
Hi, to avoid having to use longer pins for shields, you could try using round header connectors for mounting the arduino. They are much lower than the square ones. I'm not completely sure, but there's a good chance the shield could go flush to the connector without touching the arduino.
Hi, I'm sorry for replying to an old comment, but this could be useful for other readers.Byte and unsigned char are basically the same, both using 1 byte of memory. For clarity in the code it might be preferable to use byte over unsigned char, so that it's immediately clear that the array doesn't hold ASCII character codes but some number. Memory-wise it doesn't make any difference.