sconner1

I am a sound equipment tech.This fix can work, but I have some suggestions for making this DIY chore better. Try searching up a surround replacement kit. If you cant find a reasonably priced surround kit for your make and model driver, take some accurate measurements and look for a suitable generic one on fleabay. Also actual speaker glue is available online for reasonable prices and its already black and it thins/removes with M.E.K. usually. If you can't find one or just want the total diy route for fun read on.1. Some Pro speakers come with concentrically corrugated cloth surrounds coated with sealer but that would be supremely hard to replicate at home. So be sure to give extra fabric between the frame and the cone to allow free movement through the whole travel of the cone.2. I wou...

I am a sound equipment tech.This fix can work, but I have some suggestions for making this DIY chore better. Try searching up a surround replacement kit. If you cant find a reasonably priced surround kit for your make and model driver, take some accurate measurements and look for a suitable generic one on fleabay. Also actual speaker glue is available online for reasonable prices and its already black and it thins/removes with M.E.K. usually. If you can't find one or just want the total diy route for fun read on.1. Some Pro speakers come with concentrically corrugated cloth surrounds coated with sealer but that would be supremely hard to replicate at home. So be sure to give extra fabric between the frame and the cone to allow free movement through the whole travel of the cone.2. I would use a more flexible and waterfroof glue. Rubber cement is used a lot in antique radio repair on paper cones. One might experiment with some other things:Fabric tack glue, Liquid electrical tape, Plasti-dip, butyl rubber caulking etc.Most of these can be thinned with the correct solvent for consistency or a fabric sealer coating.check the "Danger- contains..." label on the back to see what would thin effectively. Sometimes Acetone, M.E.K, or laquer thinner work for different materials.I can't guarantee results with these, I'm just thinking of things that should have the right flexibility and adhesion.

Have you considered making scale for only one side?That way it can be used to mark flush against a tall piece.

Perhaps this is because of the severe starvation the ax7 will feel here. One might adjust some values in the circuit to get more appealing results with it. Maybe it's just too far out of its range to get the desired output.

The filament of both the 12ax7 and 12au7 use 12v. You can starve the plate voltage of any of this group: 12ax7, 12at7, 12ay7, 12au7. They have different gain factors 12ax7 having the most with 100 and the others are 60, 40, and 17 in that order. The 12ax7 can handle 330v on the plate but can also use less "starving" it. That causes it to distort, which is the purpose of this circuit. They all should operate but they will sound different, I predict the 12ax7 should distort earliest out of these tubes because it's starving the most in this application.

From what the author and others have said the 12ax7 may just be too starved to get any meaningful result.

I cast one like this instead of machining it once. But it will tarnish black if you don't clear coat it.