sigifredo

HIThanks a lot for the library.Wich tool and/or settings did u use to make/modify the fonts? I need some special characters ;) thanks.

HIwich of the 2 chips gives u better performance or audio quality???

thank u so much, now I understand.

thank u again.What is confuse to me is this:I upload a Digispark loader to a new 85 bare chip using Arduino UNO as ISP with a software made on Brasil (http://www.hackeduca.com.br/) , and now I can program it directly via USB with a so called "development board" like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Development-Programmer-Boa.... , ok now I can not use the PB5, no problem... But now I can not program it using ISP, it only works via the development board, why??So I can disable the reset at this time and use it? The chip will still work and be programmed with the "development board"?When the chip is new and empty the reset pin is enabled?

Did u know why on a Attiny85 the PB5 does not accept the same code than the other 5?I mean I just make a normal "Blink" sketch with your info and it works on PB0, PB1, PB2, PB3 and PB4 but NOT on PB5... I supose the RESET function is around this...

http://www.swayzeoptical.com/

HiDid u ever try plasma ignition?

thanks, think that if something gets broken it is easy to make a replacement part.

thanks, I will try that, but it is supposed that the final slew speed will be slower

I try that about 1 hour ago and as u say the torque drops too low for my taste, BUT I forget to increase current, will try again...

Thank u for the info!!!, new for me...What about using an electric hacksaw and a spring on the other side... ???

Remember that aluminum do not like epoxy or paint so it is always important to sand the surface first.

HiAbout the alignment it is important to say that I make print templates and put the parts over it, just to be sure that everything was in place AND using a very flat surface u dont have to worry about alignments at all. Of course u need a good and (more important) well calibrated miter saw to cut the aluminum.Remember that with normal JB weld u have 40 min to make adjustments, thats very important. Other epoxys do not let u do that.About the wheel u only need to purchase a Nylon Fully Threaded Rod, 1/4"-20 , 72" Length and wrap it around the wheel filled with jb weld, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMYVGC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1I remember that the trick was using small amounts of epoxy at a time, about 10cm of the wheel on every step and put ano...

HiAbout the alignment it is important to say that I make print templates and put the parts over it, just to be sure that everything was in place AND using a very flat surface u dont have to worry about alignments at all. Of course u need a good and (more important) well calibrated miter saw to cut the aluminum.Remember that with normal JB weld u have 40 min to make adjustments, thats very important. Other epoxys do not let u do that.About the wheel u only need to purchase a Nylon Fully Threaded Rod, 1/4"-20 , 72" Length and wrap it around the wheel filled with jb weld, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMYVGC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1I remember that the trick was using small amounts of epoxy at a time, about 10cm of the wheel on every step and put another clamp, of course u need a lot of clamps. If u try to fill all the wheel with epoxy in 1 step u will fail.It is a good idea to "wet" the nylon rod with any thin oil.Another advice is fill the little holes of the wheel first and let them dry before start to make the worm gear, because other procedure will not work.If for any reason some part of the wheel is not good u can destroy it and rebuilt that part alone, for example bubbles! so at the end it is normal if u have some parts with different color... just dont forget to use grease before start using it.

thank u, it takes a lot of time to make it and collect all the procedures.

thank uastronomy will let u avoid to be another brick on the wall...