sjowett

Oh no you are right, they've stopped free keys - that is a big pain. I did not write that part of the code (it was Daniel Eichhorn as I mentioned in the opening step). I'm sorry but my coding skills don't extend to re-writing this one.

What can I say but Wow.....this is fantastic! How did you make the body? Is it 2 jars fixed together end to end?

Hi there fgeer - Thanks for your question - I should have explained a bit more about the passive radiator. They are as described "Passive" so they have no electrical connections and they vibrate in sympathy with the driver in the same housing (in this case the tang band sub-woofer). Passive radiators are generally used to extend the bass response of the speaker they are paired with. Hope this explanation helps - if not, try a general search for passive radiator.

Thanks Surajit - I'm glad you like it!

Your most welcome and thanks for the positive feedback...

Thanks very much!

Grrrrrrrr

As with most of my projects they are 1off builds - This Instructable it is for you to copy the design and make yourself! (All the bought parts are listed in step 2).

Thanks for the positive feedback.

Well Done! Your hard work has paid off in the end. It is quite a complex build so you can give yourself a pat on the back!!!

maybe the file is not in the correct location? All the libraries should be in c:\documents\arduino\libraries or c:\Program files (x86)\libraries\Arduino

maybe the file is not in the correct location? All the libraries should be in c:\documents\arduino\libraries or c:\Program files (x86)\libraries\Arduino\libraries folders. It's a long time since I did this project and its possible with updates that the program has broken in some way - I hope not though!

try reloading all the libraries?

muy agradable - bien hecho

Change all the clocks in your house to match!Sorry, more seriously I can see that my code doesn't cope with 1/2 hour differences in time zones and I'm thinking you must live in one?! I'll take a look at this and maybe modify the code but I won't be able to test it fully without moving to Adelaide (Australia).In the mean time, here is the snippet of code that deals with the changing of the time:display->drawString(64 + x, 0 + y, "Time in " + WUNDERGROUND_CITY); String date = wunderground.getDate(); int textWidth = display->getStringWidth(date); display->drawString(64 + x, 10 + y, date); display->setFont(ArialMT_Plain_24); String time = timeClient.getFormattedTime(); int timehour = time.substring(0, 2).toInt(); // Serial.println(timehour); timehour = timehou...

Change all the clocks in your house to match!Sorry, more seriously I can see that my code doesn't cope with 1/2 hour differences in time zones and I'm thinking you must live in one?! I'll take a look at this and maybe modify the code but I won't be able to test it fully without moving to Adelaide (Australia).In the mean time, here is the snippet of code that deals with the changing of the time:display->drawString(64 + x, 0 + y, "Time in " + WUNDERGROUND_CITY); String date = wunderground.getDate(); int textWidth = display->getStringWidth(date); display->drawString(64 + x, 10 + y, date); display->setFont(ArialMT_Plain_24); String time = timeClient.getFormattedTime(); int timehour = time.substring(0, 2).toInt(); // Serial.println(timehour); timehour = timehour + utcoh; if (timehour >= 24 ) { // remove 24 hrs if hours is > 24 timehour = timehour - 24; } // Serial.println(timehour); String timeh = String(timehour); if (timehour < 10 ) { // add a leading zero if the hours is less thsn 10 timeh = "0" + timeh; } // Serial.println(timeh); textWidth = display->getStringWidth(time); display->drawString(64 + x, 20 + y, timeh + ":" + time.substring(3)); display->setTextAlignment(TEXT_ALIGN_LEFT);Basically I grab the variable 'utcoh' from the weatherunderground site and then add it to the 'timehour' integer variable to get the correct time. If the

Yes - Uno,Nano or Micro should be ok

I can try, what's your question?

Creo 2.0

Wow - thats quite a hard ask to answer well in a comment - here are the main pointers to get you started.Try this url in your browser:The response givs you all the data available from this location. You need to find the parameter you are interested in (I can see quite a few relating to wind but perhaps "wind_mph" is the one you want)?Basically the program is written so that all the data is downloaded and stored in an array. The program then looks for the string "wind_mph" then assumes that the value following this is the appropriate number.If you no longer want the UV then maybe look on the tabs "WundergroundClient.cpp" and "WundergroundClient.h" for the term "uv" and see how I grab the data.1) Declare a variables on Wunderground.h - t...

Wow - thats quite a hard ask to answer well in a comment - here are the main pointers to get you started.Try this url in your browser:The response givs you all the data available from this location. You need to find the parameter you are interested in (I can see quite a few relating to wind but perhaps "wind_mph" is the one you want)?Basically the program is written so that all the data is downloaded and stored in an array. The program then looks for the string "wind_mph" then assumes that the value following this is the appropriate number.If you no longer want the UV then maybe look on the tabs "WundergroundClient.cpp" and "WundergroundClient.h" for the term "uv" and see how I grab the data.1) Declare a variables on Wunderground.h - the wind speed is not a string, it might be an integer or a long?String uv;String getUv();2) Modify these 2 bits of code on Wunderground.cpp to suit your new variableif (currentKey == "UV") { uv = value; } String WundergroundClient::getUv() { return uv;}3) and then in the main program you'll need to modify this bit of codedisplay->drawString(96 + x, 38 + y, wunderground.getUv());Good luck!

sorry forgot to paste this urlhttp://api.wunderground.com/api/b93784ff56d0512b/conditions/q/CA/San_Francisco.json

Its a shame the shock switches they didn't work - they do sometimes need a sharp tap though!

Thanks John - glad you like the sight and the sound!

That's good you got it sorted - well done!As for the DHT11 it will work but you need to make a minor change to the main code. See the lines 99 to 102 and you will see that you need to "un-comment" the one you want to use. Currently line 101 is un-commented for the DHT22 - simply put 2 // (slashes) at the front of that line and remove the corresponding double slashes from line 100

The error you paste has this line:\WeatherStationInstructableSH1106.ino:42:Which points to line 42 of the main program which is#include <ESP8266WiFi.h>Perhaps the library is not loaded or corrrupt? - the loading of this library is covered in Part 4 of step 20.

ok - at least we have identified why the errors occurring - because it can't 'see' the other tabs. Try downloading the zip file again and then extracting all the files and placing them in the Arduino 'home' folder, which should be in your Documents>Arduino folder. Alternatively, it is possible to add each tab manually by following the Sketch>Add File... command from inside Arduino an point/pick each of the additional 11 files required. As you add each one a new tab should appear. Hopefully the errors will then disappear and you can save this and it will remember the composition of the file for future use.

Excellent!

I'm sorry I' cant reproduce the error you are seeing, perhaps try just changing the duration before sleep to be a large number or just comment out the 1 line in the code that says "ESP.sleep(0, WAKE_RF_DEFAULT);"

I'm assuming it compiled ok before you made the changes? If so take a step back and check you are only removing the lines of code relating to the timer function which is from line 218 to 227 inclusive. (you can turn on line display under File>Preferences then ensure the check box "Display line numbers" is checked

Yes, I reckon anything from 2k to 12k should be ok....not tested though!

ok added - thanks

Great addition - can I have your permission to add the diagram into the steps?Simon

Yep - for those of you who prefer the 'other' units you can change this around. I was born into the Fahrenheit era then did all my engineering in Celsius - guess I'm pretty mixed up!! Ha Ha. Thanks very much for your contribution Maxx99!

This is a great feature and I should use it more - thanks for adding to the knowledge base.

I'm on holiday for a few days but I'll do a bit more work next week on a parts list. Fyi the esp is a 12e version i think.

Great - im happy to have indpired you to have a go ?

Fantastic work. Glad you've hacked and improved the program!

Yes they're great microcontrollers - really versatile and low cost. There is a newer esp32 that I'm going to take a look at soon.

I've put the file for the software on Step 21. There are 2 versions, one for the SSD1306 chip and the other for the SH1106. I have not looked and Daniels code in a long time (over a year). I added the reset button and vibration sensor/sleep function. I also changed the number and some of the 'page' layout/information. I do believe his software features have changed also you may be worthwhile looking at both.

Yes - the 3d printed enclosure is very small - getting the screens in is OK but, it's a tight fit for everything else. It was so tight for the 0.96" version that I have not loaded up the 3D case for that one as I can't recommend my design! Way too fiddly. However, for the creatives ones out there it wouldn't be too much to make a slightly bigger case for the 0.96" - any takers?!

Hi - thanks for the positive vibes - I hope I've inspired someone to either make it or try out something with the ESP8266 which is a great WiFi & micro controller combo but a little harder to use than say, an Arudino Uno.

Both the vibration sensor and the reset button a momentary devices and they simply ground out the pins they are connected to. You could therefore swap them or, as you suggest just use the vibration sensor as the reset device. FYI the vibration sensor is simply a wire inside a spring. When the spring vibrates it touches the wire

Your right there are heaps of similar projects out there - Hopefully the difference here is that I've tried to fully detail whats involved. This might scare many people off but I hope not!

Thanks for taking the time to post such a nice comment.

You are right I should do a 'before' and 'after' comparison. However it's not easy to do a really valid one as the outside air temperatures would have to be the same or at least very similar, along with the number of times I go in/out of the fridge etc.I've not seen any frozen items in the fridge yet, possibly the sensor is at -1 but the air in the fridge a bit higher. I'm sure Samsung would have taken this into account when deciding on this temperature range for the fridge.

Very cool indeed - about -21DegC in the daytime. Ha Ha!

Not all games have this feature but if they do it is settable in the game menu. The game menu is accessed by attaching a keyboard to the Raspberry Pi and hitting the "tab" key. a menu will appear on the screen and if the game supports it there is a setting for Cabinet type - "Cocktail" or "Upright" - choose cocktail and exit the menu. The game remembers the setting so you only need to do it for each game once.

.......I've also edited the step about the power supply extolling the virtues of CC driving of LED's and the true wickedness of EVER having the temerity to suggest only controlling the voltage is satisfactory. It is NOT. (now sitting on the naughty stair in shame)

.......I've also edited the step about the power supply extolling the virtues of CC driving of LED's and the true wickedness of NEVER EVER having the temerity to suggest only controlling the voltage is satisfactory. It is NOT (now sitting on the naughty stair in shame)

Constant current is the way to go.......no doubt - see the reply given above for a recommendation.As for me I'm destined to get burned so this will be my last instructable.

.... I've also edited the step regarding the power supply and hopefully extolling the virtues of CC driving and I give my sincere aploogies for having the temerity to suggest that you can satisfactorily drive an LED with a constant voltage source. You can NOT (now sitting on the naughty stair).

There seems to be some confusion here. A 3s LiPo battery will not even light the type of LED used in this project (100W led with a rated forward voltage of 35v). There is simply not enough voltage to get the semiconductor to conduct. If you watch my detailed video on step 2 you will see the LED's begin to illuminate at around 25V, and without controlling the current it is perfectly safe to ramp up the voltage to around 29V .....without any current control. At the same time if you want to run this LED at 35v then YES you are right you must control the current.

I'm sorry I can't help as this instructable is predominantly based around detailed videos loaded up to YouTube (rather than my previous instructables which are predominantly picture based).

Forward Voltage (Vf) is a term used on an LED's data sheet and refers to the voltage dropped across the LED while it is illuminated at the specified current etc. Effectively in my case this is the voltage provided by the DC-DC converter. You need to avoid going over this voltage as you will burn out the LED - Very quickly!

Step 2 gives a fully detailed parts lists with links!

yep! - Heat is the enemy of long life for LED's - thanks for the positive feedback Harry.

Ha Ha - sorry GTO3x2! TonySuffolk has hit the nail on the head - I was born and brought up in the UK.... Celebrate the differences!

The LED used is a 100w led made up of a matrix of 10x10 1w LED's. As such I had no choice of LED arrangement in this design. Similar LED's of 20W and 50W also have a 10 in series arrangement ie 2 x 10 and 5 x 10 respectively.

??ugh??

Thanks for your comments. Yes - on the whole using a LED driver with a constant current control is a good thing. At the same time in this instance I am under driving the 100W LED. 'White' LED's of this type are actually blue LED's under a phosphor coating with a forward voltage of ~3.5v each. So with a 100W LED (with 10xLED's in series) this gives a full forward voltage of 35V. My battery voltage of 24V requires boosting and I limited the boost to well under 35V - (I also checked the current & power going to the LED to check this was true).However - as an alternative how about this board? www.ebay.com.au/itm/DC-DC-boost-converter-Constant-Current-Mobile-Power-supply-10A-250W-LED-Driver-/401033419926?txnId=598112995027I did have one of these but I let the magic smoke out!

No issues - it still works fine.millis() is fine for this project as you can count down/up for around 50 days. millis() is an unsigned long variable and can there for count to over 4 billion (to be exact 0 to 4,294,967,295 (2^32 - 1))!

The led that blinks 3 times is probably the LED attached to pin 13. My program gets his to flash 3 times when one of the PIRs has triggered. Have you checked the Arduino serial window? My code prints the LDR value and then "Detected Top" or "Detected bottom", this will correspond with the led flashing 3x alsoI can't emphasize enough that to isolate an issue its best to use a example program which focuses on the element you need to resolve. You can then build things back up

Try the PIR in a little example program on it's own to try isolate the issue...Try this one for size?http://playground.arduino.cc/Code/PIRsense

Not much at all really - there would be no need to rotate the screen (in the boot config.txt file) as I assume you would use it in 'normal' landscape mode. With many arcade games there is a 'in game' menu that is accessed by using a keyboard and hiting the "Tab" key after the game has started. In this menu you may find a "Upright or Cocktail" setting which you need to choose the first time you run that game.That's it -can't think of anything more of hand!Simon

Hi TonyI've added a picture which should help. I'm assuming in my answer that you will be using the monitor in the landscape format not portrait as I have with the dell 17". Anyway, the width is about 370mm but don't forget the timbers taper in at 5 degrees. So, both the 24" (definitely) and hopefully the 26" would fit in. The larger monitor would be a very tight fit though. As for the length dimension the hinges take up about 70mm in from one end of the cabinet, if you centralize the monitor then you'd be taking 2 x 70mm from the interior length (which is 660). 660-140=520mm hmm this means that even the smaller monitor is going to be a squeeze, possible best to just make the cabinet sides a bit longer.Another thing to consider is the location of the Raspberry Pi a...

Hi TonyI've added a picture which should help. I'm assuming in my answer that you will be using the monitor in the landscape format not portrait as I have with the dell 17". Anyway, the width is about 370mm but don't forget the timbers taper in at 5 degrees. So, both the 24" (definitely) and hopefully the 26" would fit in. The larger monitor would be a very tight fit though. As for the length dimension the hinges take up about 70mm in from one end of the cabinet, if you centralize the monitor then you'd be taking 2 x 70mm from the interior length (which is 660). 660-140=520mm hmm this means that even the smaller monitor is going to be a squeeze, possible best to just make the cabinet sides a bit longer.Another thing to consider is the location of the Raspberry Pi and how close it is the the back of the monitor, although this is easy to overcome by placing the platform a bit lower.All the bestSimon

I've update the step to reflect this - the finding and loading of the roms is definately the most challenging to get right!!!!

Try putting the roms in the "Arcade" folder.

I don't think so, the RetroPie and the various emulations seem to be configurable for resolution (if need be). However, I did not have to make any adjustments for the games I've tried to date.

Hi Jo1) 4:3 it is from an old Dell 17" monitor2) The screen orientation change is set up in each game rom you load up. Once the game has loaded, (using a keyboard) you hit the "Tab" key and this brings up an 'in game' menu. Here you can set a number of parameters (or dip switches, this is a reference to the original set-up where individual micro switches inside the machine could change parameters). One of the parameters you can set is "upright" or "cocktail". This data seems to save ok between boots so you shouldn't need the keyboard connected permanently.Simon

Thanks Ron. It's my most details Instructable to date I think!

Good idea Chris - it too makes me nervous when the lid is up! I would have preferred a 3rd glass clip at the hinge end also. Now the project is finished I guess the need to be inside the machine is much less. With a WiFi dongle you can load games onto the Pi without accessing the inside - perhaps I'll add another step!!!

"Galaxy Is Out of Order." Ha Ha do they know something we don't?

Thanks Ron. I think it's my most detailed Instructable to date!