sjowett

Sorry, I don't have an CS8675 module on hand.

What sort of help do you need? The Arduino board is a purchased item so you only need to wire the board up to the sensors and power supply as per the schematics. If this is your first arduino project then I understand it will be daunting. If this is the case then the best thing would be to follow some arduino tutorials for 'getting started' before tackling this project

I guess if it is a VGA then the Rpi can't 'talk' to the monitor to tell it what resolution to use? try get a HDMI or DVI monitor.As for the Roms - have you set up pacman with the 'in game menu' via the "Tab" key? By default, I've found all new games loaded up are set to 'upright' and this needs to be toggled to 'cocktail'.

Thanks for your comment. I usually do 2 separate spot welds which results in 4 contact points. Hopefully it results in a reasonable contact surface area, given its 2 flat plates against each other.

Hi Darie - I've been away this weekend - lock down starting to lift here in Australia! I've dome a dump and put it on the last step of the instructable. I had to rename the file to.txt to get it to upload (it saves as .psr). Let me know if this works for you.

If I'm understaning your question correctly the speed at which the lights travel up or down the stairs is this command:colourWipeDown(strip.Color(50, 50, 30), 40);The 1st 3 numbers are the RGB colour and the 4th (40ms in this example) is the delay between updates, change this number.

hmm that is tricky. My machine does not go to sleep. Once the door is shut the start button seems to flash forever....or at least 12+ hours.However, if your description is correct and the machine requires the start button to be pressed twice this is an easy change to the software, IE just repeat the existing routine twice

I think it should word on an Arduino Uno also.

Looks like my pic is pointing to the wrong pin - I think your pic is correct. Ill try update soon!

The battery is connected to "BAT" for the battery positive and the battery negative is connected to GND. The battery is shown in the left hand corner of your picture.

High fgeer - that's a tricky one. I must admit that I sometimes have to repair/modify prints that arn't quite what they should be. The technique is emery/sandpaper and patience! If there is not enough material you can try using a wood filler to build up the surface first. Good luck.

....very annoying.... no i've not updated the project (and i'm unlikley to do so in the near future)...never mind.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7gdZsPkljoo&t Try this Youtube link - there is a copy of the software linked below the video

any error message? Try save it to a place you know you have access to like the desktop.

Thanks Penolopy - I'ts my first time using concrete as a project medium....I think I may have another few designs I'd like to try! Thanks for the comment.

Thanks Seamster - your positive feedback is always a great tonic!

Hi EbamE - this project is not based on an Arduino, it uses a different microprocessor called and ESP8266 (in the title of the Instructable). The reason the instructable is located in the Arduino section is that it uses the Arduino software IDE to program this chip. The circuit diagram and the steps contained here hold all the information you need to make this little gizmo.

Oh no you are right, they've stopped free keys - that is a big pain. I did not write that part of the code (it was Daniel Eichhorn as I mentioned in the opening step). I'm sorry but my coding skills don't extend to re-writing this one.

What can I say but Wow.....this is fantastic! How did you make the body? Is it 2 jars fixed together end to end?

Hi there fgeer - Thanks for your question - I should have explained a bit more about the passive radiator. They are as described "Passive" so they have no electrical connections and they vibrate in sympathy with the driver in the same housing (in this case the tang band sub-woofer). Passive radiators are generally used to extend the bass response of the speaker they are paired with. Hope this explanation helps - if not, try a general search for passive radiator.

Thanks Surajit - I'm glad you like it!

Your most welcome and thanks for the positive feedback...

All the parts on step 2 add up to $196.82US so it is not a cheap build. There is then the PLA for printing and ancillary parts like the DC and stereo jacks.... perhaps another $20.

Thanks very much!

As with most of my projects they are 1off builds - This Instructable it is for you to copy the design and make yourself! (All the bought parts are listed in step 2).

Grrrrrrrr

Well Done! Your hard work has paid off in the end. It is quite a complex build so you can give yourself a pat on the back!!!

maybe the file is not in the correct location? All the libraries should be in c:\documents\arduino\libraries or c:\Program files (x86)\libraries\Arduino\libraries folders. It's a long time since I did this project and its possible with updates that the program has broken in some way - I hope not though!

maybe the file is not in the correct location? All the libraries should be in c:\documents\arduino\libraries or c:\Program files (x86)\libraries\Arduino

try reloading all the libraries?

muy agradable - bien hecho

Change all the clocks in your house to match!Sorry, more seriously I can see that my code doesn't cope with 1/2 hour differences in time zones and I'm thinking you must live in one?! I'll take a look at this and maybe modify the code but I won't be able to test it fully without moving to Adelaide (Australia).In the mean time, here is the snippet of code that deals with the changing of the time:display->drawString(64 + x, 0 + y, "Time in " + WUNDERGROUND_CITY); String date = wunderground.getDate(); int textWidth = display->getStringWidth(date); display->drawString(64 + x, 10 + y, date); display->setFont(ArialMT_Plain_24); String time = timeClient.getFormattedTime(); int timehour = time.substring(0, 2).toInt(); // Serial.println(timehour); timehour = timehour …

Change all the clocks in your house to match!Sorry, more seriously I can see that my code doesn't cope with 1/2 hour differences in time zones and I'm thinking you must live in one?! I'll take a look at this and maybe modify the code but I won't be able to test it fully without moving to Adelaide (Australia).In the mean time, here is the snippet of code that deals with the changing of the time:display->drawString(64 + x, 0 + y, "Time in " + WUNDERGROUND_CITY); String date = wunderground.getDate(); int textWidth = display->getStringWidth(date); display->drawString(64 + x, 10 + y, date); display->setFont(ArialMT_Plain_24); String time = timeClient.getFormattedTime(); int timehour = time.substring(0, 2).toInt(); // Serial.println(timehour); timehour = timehour + utcoh; if (timehour >= 24 ) { // remove 24 hrs if hours is > 24 timehour = timehour - 24; } // Serial.println(timehour); String timeh = String(timehour); if (timehour < 10 ) { // add a leading zero if the hours is less thsn 10 timeh = "0" + timeh; } // Serial.println(timeh); textWidth = display->getStringWidth(time); display->drawString(64 + x, 20 + y, timeh + ":" + time.substring(3)); display->setTextAlignment(TEXT_ALIGN_LEFT);Basically I grab the variable 'utcoh' from the weatherunderground site and then add it to the 'timehour' integer variable to get the correct time. If the

Yes - Uno,Nano or Micro should be ok

I can try, what's your question?

Creo 2.0

sorry forgot to paste this urlhttp://api.wunderground.com/api/b93784ff56d0512b/conditions/q/CA/San_Francisco.json

Wow - thats quite a hard ask to answer well in a comment - here are the main pointers to get you started.Try this url in your browser:The response givs you all the data available from this location. You need to find the parameter you are interested in (I can see quite a few relating to wind but perhaps "wind_mph" is the one you want)?Basically the program is written so that all the data is downloaded and stored in an array. The program then looks for the string "wind_mph" then assumes that the value following this is the appropriate number.If you no longer want the UV then maybe look on the tabs "WundergroundClient.cpp" and "WundergroundClient.h" for the term "uv" and see how I grab the data.1) Declare a variables on Wunderground.h - the…

Wow - thats quite a hard ask to answer well in a comment - here are the main pointers to get you started.Try this url in your browser:The response givs you all the data available from this location. You need to find the parameter you are interested in (I can see quite a few relating to wind but perhaps "wind_mph" is the one you want)?Basically the program is written so that all the data is downloaded and stored in an array. The program then looks for the string "wind_mph" then assumes that the value following this is the appropriate number.If you no longer want the UV then maybe look on the tabs "WundergroundClient.cpp" and "WundergroundClient.h" for the term "uv" and see how I grab the data.1) Declare a variables on Wunderground.h - the wind speed is not a string, it might be an integer or a long?String uv;String getUv();2) Modify these 2 bits of code on Wunderground.cpp to suit your new variableif (currentKey == "UV") { uv = value; } String WundergroundClient::getUv() { return uv;}3) and then in the main program you'll need to modify this bit of codedisplay->drawString(96 + x, 38 + y, wunderground.getUv());Good luck!

Its a shame the shock switches they didn't work - they do sometimes need a sharp tap though!

Thanks John - glad you like the sight and the sound!

That's good you got it sorted - well done!As for the DHT11 it will work but you need to make a minor change to the main code. See the lines 99 to 102 and you will see that you need to "un-comment" the one you want to use. Currently line 101 is un-commented for the DHT22 - simply put 2 // (slashes) at the front of that line and remove the corresponding double slashes from line 100

The error you paste has this line:\WeatherStationInstructableSH1106.ino:42:Which points to line 42 of the main program which is#include <ESP8266WiFi.h>Perhaps the library is not loaded or corrrupt? - the loading of this library is covered in Part 4 of step 20.

ok - at least we have identified why the errors occurring - because it can't 'see' the other tabs. Try downloading the zip file again and then extracting all the files and placing them in the Arduino 'home' folder, which should be in your Documents>Arduino folder. Alternatively, it is possible to add each tab manually by following the Sketch>Add File... command from inside Arduino an point/pick each of the additional 11 files required. As you add each one a new tab should appear. Hopefully the errors will then disappear and you can save this and it will remember the composition of the file for future use.

Excellent!

I'm sorry I' cant reproduce the error you are seeing, perhaps try just changing the duration before sleep to be a large number or just comment out the 1 line in the code that says "ESP.sleep(0, WAKE_RF_DEFAULT);"

I'm assuming it compiled ok before you made the changes? If so take a step back and check you are only removing the lines of code relating to the timer function which is from line 218 to 227 inclusive. (you can turn on line display under File>Preferences then ensure the check box "Display line numbers" is checked

Yes, I reckon anything from 2k to 12k should be ok....not tested though!

ok added - thanks

Great addition - can I have your permission to add the diagram into the steps?Simon

This is a great feature and I should use it more - thanks for adding to the knowledge base.

Yep - for those of you who prefer the 'other' units you can change this around. I was born into the Fahrenheit era then did all my engineering in Celsius - guess I'm pretty mixed up!! Ha Ha. Thanks very much for your contribution Maxx99!

Fantastic work. Glad you've hacked and improved the program!

I'm on holiday for a few days but I'll do a bit more work next week on a parts list. Fyi the esp is a 12e version i think.

Yes they're great microcontrollers - really versatile and low cost. There is a newer esp32 that I'm going to take a look at soon.

Great - im happy to have indpired you to have a go ?

Yes - the 3d printed enclosure is very small - getting the screens in is OK but, it's a tight fit for everything else. It was so tight for the 0.96" version that I have not loaded up the 3D case for that one as I can't recommend my design! Way too fiddly. However, for the creatives ones out there it wouldn't be too much to make a slightly bigger case for the 0.96" - any takers?!

I've put the file for the software on Step 21. There are 2 versions, one for the SSD1306 chip and the other for the SH1106. I have not looked and Daniels code in a long time (over a year). I added the reset button and vibration sensor/sleep function. I also changed the number and some of the 'page' layout/information. I do believe his software features have changed also you may be worthwhile looking at both.

Thanks for the feedback Seamster - much appreciated.

Hi - thanks for the positive vibes - I hope I've inspired someone to either make it or try out something with the ESP8266 which is a great WiFi & micro controller combo but a little harder to use than say, an Arudino Uno.

Absolutely - whilst I haven't looked at a WeMo unit I think the removing the hassles of programming with an FTDI is a good idea (the link to Daniel Eichhorns build is for a Node MCU). The issue here is size, neither my 1.3" or the 0.96" will fit such a board so I had to choose the smallest footprint possible.

Thanks for the link - It's amazing what you can get these days, and not to expensive either. It's a good job I just like "making stuff" and don't charge myself labor costs!!!

You are right I should do a 'before' and 'after' comparison. However it's not easy to do a really valid one as the outside air temperatures would have to be the same or at least very similar, along with the number of times I go in/out of the fridge etc.I've not seen any frozen items in the fridge yet, possibly the sensor is at -1 but the air in the fridge a bit higher. I'm sure Samsung would have taken this into account when deciding on this temperature range for the fridge.

Very cool indeed - about -21DegC in the daytime. Ha Ha!

Not all games have this feature but if they do it is settable in the game menu. The game menu is accessed by attaching a keyboard to the Raspberry Pi and hitting the "tab" key. a menu will appear on the screen and if the game supports it there is a setting for Cabinet type - "Cocktail" or "Upright" - choose cocktail and exit the menu. The game remembers the setting so you only need to do it for each game once.

.... I've also edited the step regarding the power supply and hopefully extolling the virtues of CC driving and I give my sincere aploogies for having the temerity to suggest that you can satisfactorily drive an LED with a constant voltage source. You can NOT (now sitting on the naughty stair).

Constant current is the way to go.......no doubt - see the reply given above for a recommendation.As for me I'm destined to get burned so this will be my last instructable.

.......I've also edited the step about the power supply extolling the virtues of CC driving of LED's and the true wickedness of NEVER EVER having the temerity to suggest only controlling the voltage is satisfactory. It is NOT (now sitting on the naughty stair in shame)

.......I've also edited the step about the power supply extolling the virtues of CC driving of LED's and the true wickedness of EVER having the temerity to suggest only controlling the voltage is satisfactory. It is NOT. (now sitting on the naughty stair in shame)

There seems to be some confusion here. A 3s LiPo battery will not even light the type of LED used in this project (100W led with a rated forward voltage of 35v). There is simply not enough voltage to get the semiconductor to conduct. If you watch my detailed video on step 2 you will see the LED's begin to illuminate at around 25V, and without controlling the current it is perfectly safe to ramp up the voltage to around 29V .....without any current control. At the same time if you want to run this LED at 35v then YES you are right you must control the current.

I'm sorry I can't help as this instructable is predominantly based around detailed videos loaded up to YouTube (rather than my previous instructables which are predominantly picture based).

Step 2 gives a fully detailed parts lists with links!

I guess it might work but I really like having the having brightness control. With 8s (33.6v when fully charged) I think the current would spiral out of control. My video testing the LED's showed that at 29/30V I was approaching 100W. This is lower than I expected but I believe the test was valid. 7s might be ok though but I'd still prefer to see some controller in the circuit, at least voltage and as some others have commented, current too!

yep! - Heat is the enemy of long life for LED's - thanks for the positive feedback Harry.