snorlaxprime

Great work, feel realistic.

The Vin pin from the Arduino is pretty much the same connection from the USB power so you can connect a small amount of LED to i. It draw the current from the USB port and not the Arduino.If you are connecting more LEDs it might not work depends on where you are connecting the USB connector to. Preferably connecting it directly to external power supply instead of USB port of pc.

I only have 30 leds in my strip. I am using WS2812, the led is not powered by the ESP. The ESP only used to send data, so it should be ok. You will only need a powersupply that can power the LEDs. If you have WS2811, then it is a different story as you might need to power it using MOSFET. You can check my other post here https://efcomputer.net.au/blog/4-steps-to-create-wifi-controlled-rgb-led-strip-using-esp8266/

Hi, I actually connect the LED to 3.3V instead of 5V. This seems to work fine.With the current limiter, I use 330 ohm resistor connected to the data line and this seems to be enough as it is only required to drive the signaling logic.The VCC of 5V from power supply is connected to VIN which will go through the regulator to power the ESP8266 which is 3.3 V.

Hi,What do you mean you can't open the coding? On step 6. you should be able to download the sourcecode MP3PlayerLDR.ino, here is the direct linkhttps://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FR2/P8PQ/JDF217...If you still have issue, you can message me your email address and I can email it to you.

Great build using materials from nature.

Great Helmet,, thank you for sharing!

Thank you for posting this. Awesome way to light up your lounge room.

Hi ErwinH20,You can download it from here:https://efcomputer.net.au/blog/product/esp8266-hallway-lights-source-code/Regards

Great idea, simple and effective!

Such a cool secret room.

Thanks

Great project to supplement the short supply of contactless thermometer in the time of crisis.

Hi Busterho,You can use N-Channel MOSFET IRF510, or any equivalent to this. As per the datasheet, Source to Drain current can be up to 5.6 Amps. Multicoloured LED draws about 60mA per strip (20mA for Red, Green and Blue). So with the configuration above one MOSFET per colour, we can power about 280 LEDs, so lets be conservative, it can power up to 250 LEDs safely.The source to drain voltage is 2.5V, which is enough voltage to power the LEDs.I hope this answers your questions.

https://efcomputer.net.au/blog/product/esp8266-led-strip-wifi-source-code/

Hi Mo1726,What is the issue? Can you tell me more?

Great Clock Thank you for sharing.

Hi, You can edit the default settings in file "Settings.h" line 42#define DEFAULT_TIMEZONE 180.When the code runs, it should allow you to change the setting through the web interface and save it in the EPROM.

Hi Fe Factor,Just try using Australia as a country. It should work.

Hi Fe Factor,You can follow the following steps (don't click on the paypal checkout):- Add it to the cart- Click on cart at the top- Checkout from the cartI just tested it, seems to work ok.Please let me know if you are still not able to download the source code.

Hi e_cuara,Don't click on the "paypal" button, but instead, click on the "view cart" button and you can checkout from there without going through "paypal". Please let me know if you still having an issue.

Love your work to reduce things going to landfil

Hi yptrio, no the code is free and can be downloaded from the following location:https://efcomputer.net.au/blog/product/esp8266-led-strip-wifi-source-code/

Looks amazing, quite close to what Boston Dynamics robot's movement.

Awesome creation, looks cool and I love how it can be articulated

Such an awesome projects, I will try to make this one day.

Simple, functional and looks great

Hi Steve,You will need to make sure the definition of DebugLn is in the code, at the top you will need to make sure you have the following line#define DebugLn(s) Serial.println((s))This is to define DebugLn function the same as Serial.println function in Arduino. If this is not working still just replace "DebugLn" with "Serial.println".I hope this helps.

Great idea, my kids just get a few Betta, recently, they are still very excited and feeding them regularly, I suspect when the novelty runs on, this will be a perfect solution.

Well done to recycle the oldie back to life.

Awesome instructables to combine lots of input and output for beginners

Awesome hack for Nerf gun. Thank you for sharing.

Hi dadock, you can check out my other instructables https://www.instructables.com/Wireless-Temperature-and-Motion-Sensor/, in Step 4-6 is the instruction on how to setup a database in the webserver that holds your data. And Step 8 is showing you how the visualisation looks like. Hopefully that is something that you are after. Otherwise, just let me know, I might have to simplify the visualisation instruction.

Such an awesome project, I can so relate to how I can never find my bits and pieces in my junk box. This solution is perfect, thanks for sharing.

Good to know that you get it working, Congrats!

Hi Richard, couple of things you can try.- can you use a prototype board or check the connectivity of the wire you are using to make sure that it is wired property. Sometimes the wire can be broken too. Or it might not connect property when you try to slot 3 into the small spacing between the sensor legs.- if you have a multimeter this comes handy for trouble shooting the connection- try just a simple wiring of lm35 sensor with power supply of 5v and gnd, and check the output (middle pin) voltage to see whether it produce the voltage responsive to temperature changes to make sure the sensor is not broken.- if all good, check the 3.3 v and gnd from esp8266 that it is actually 3.3vPlease let me know how did you go.

Good display of LED matrix

This looks surreal, I actually have one beetle that looks like yours. I am tempted to converted it.

Awesome helmet with so fine details. Great instructions. Do you mind sharing the design file? Thanks in advance.

Very nice and informative. Thanks for the tips on using the fibre glass cloth as the wick.

Thank you for your suggestion on how to fix the problem

Very creative and definitely something that will spark the fun and learning at the same time. Kudos for such a brilliant idea.

Hi,Can you confirm that your cloud support HTTP POST? I didn't use cloud, just a normal webserver with PHP enabled.Also can you check what is returned at the following: DebugLn(data); <======== check the data, this should say "temp_sensor=xx"int httpCode = http.POST(data); String payload = http.getString(); DebugLn(httpCode); <======= check what this return, it should be "200" when success DebugLn(payload); // this will get the response.If your server doesn't support HTTP POST you might want to use HTTP GET, which is much easier to DEBUG.

This is a cool hack for the Digital assistant

Nice use of an old clock.

Yes, it can do wonders when used correctly.

Such an awesome build

Very informative Instructables. Thank you for sharing.

Good Instructions, Thanks for sharing information about ESP32

Seems quite strange, Can you change the following line in handleRootfrom//server.send(200, "text/html", s); <== commented this lineserver.send(200,"text/plain","Hello world!"); <== change to thisthis is to check that the ESP8266 webserver is working, you should see "Hello world! message when connecting to http://192.168.4.1

Please comment out the following 2 lines also //s.replace("@@HOUR@@", String(hour(t)));//s.replace("@@MIN@@", String(minute(t)));

sorry my bad, I must be thinking of other language. please use//time_t t = now();

Hi, Do you want to try commenting the following code in handleRoot() function#time_t t= now();to see whether this fixed your FatalException. You shouldn't be using www, only http://192.168.4.1, but the FatalException is causing ESP not able to show the configuration page.The temperature sensor is reading in Celcius, the reading you have is 70.13 seems a bit high, you might need to calibrate this agains a reference temperature. But we might have to deal with that later. Are you also aware that you are pointing to a non-existing website (www.xxx.gr) to store the temperature?Let me know how did you go.

Hi DJman230, judging from the datasheet of DS18B20, it is a digital temperature sensor. While LM35 is an analog temperature sensor. Arduino can work with DS18B20, but you will have to adjust the part on how to initialise the sensor and modify the way you read the measurement, as it is a much sophisticated temperature sensor. I don't have one to experiment, but I am sure you can find other instructables that are using this sensor.

That is very strange.You might want to try the following:- Main PC connected to ESP via USB and open the serial connection, so that you can see the debug code. - use your mobile to connect to ESP access point, and use the mobile phone to browse to the ESP gateway (192.168.4.1)- check the serial connection debug window in main pc to see whether the handleRoot() function is executed.Please post the debug message if you still can't connect.

You can adjust the baud rate to the correct baud rate (default is 9600). Adjust it to match the Serial.begin() code.

If you can see ESP-TEMP, that means it is part of the setup, you need to connect using a laptop or mobile phone, then check the gateway IP, using the browser navigate to the gateway ip. You should get presented with the Configuration page as shown in step 5.At this point in Arduino, it is executing the handleRoot() function, the setting page is constructed in mainPage.h file. I hope this makes sense.As for your second question, you will have to modify the ArduinoData.php. This page reads the data file called temp.txt which store the temperate value posted by ESP8266. You can completely write a new webpage that read the temp.txt. Another alternative is to modify the data_store.php to store the posted value into a database for further processing.

It looks surreal, excellent scenery, I loved the waterfall

And yes this will work with battery, the ESP8266 module that I have takes 5V input, but if you tap into the 3.3V input you can drive it using the battery, and do a small calibration based on the adjustment code above.

Hi, You are welcome, I only do small calibration by comparing the temperature reading from LM35. ESP8266 operating voltage is 3V, so the maximum reading possible from the analog input is 0-3V. I am only assume that the temperature response is linear, so this is done in the following section of the code. // convert the analog signal to voltage // the ESP2866 A0 reads between 0 and ~3 volts, producing a corresponding value // between 0 and 1024. The equation below will convert the value to a voltage value. analogVolts = (analogValue * 3.03) /1024; DebugLn(String(analogVolts)); temperature = (analogVolts) * 100; The proper way to calibrate this is to look at the datasheet of LM35 to see what the minimum and maximum temperature range and then calibrated this using a reference thermometer…

Hi, You are welcome, I only do small calibration by comparing the temperature reading from LM35. ESP8266 operating voltage is 3V, so the maximum reading possible from the analog input is 0-3V. I am only assume that the temperature response is linear, so this is done in the following section of the code. // convert the analog signal to voltage // the ESP2866 A0 reads between 0 and ~3 volts, producing a corresponding value // between 0 and 1024. The equation below will convert the value to a voltage value. analogVolts = (analogValue * 3.03) /1024; DebugLn(String(analogVolts)); temperature = (analogVolts) * 100; The proper way to calibrate this is to look at the datasheet of LM35 to see what the minimum and maximum temperature range and then calibrated this using a reference thermometer, and then make the adjustment accordingly. I only use this for displaying the temperature inside the home, so I didn't calibrate this to the precision. If you plan to use it for something more serious, you probably want to use a much better sensor than LM35.I hope this helps. Please let me know if you have any further questions.