snorlaxprime

Well done to recycle the oldie back to life.

Awesome instructables to combine lots of input and output for beginners

Awesome hack for Nerf gun. Thank you for sharing.

Hi dadock, you can check out my other instructables https://www.instructables.com/id/Wireless-Temperature-and-Motion-Sensor/, in Step 4-6 is the instruction on how to setup a database in the webserver that holds your data. And Step 8 is showing you how the visualisation looks like. Hopefully that is something that you are after. Otherwise, just let me know, I might have to simplify the visualisation instruction.

Such an awesome project, I can so relate to how I can never find my bits and pieces in my junk box. This solution is perfect, thanks for sharing.

Good to know that you get it working, Congrats!

Hi Richard, couple of things you can try.- can you use a prototype board or check the connectivity of the wire you are using to make sure that it is wired property. Sometimes the wire can be broken too. Or it might not connect property when you try to slot 3 into the small spacing between the sensor legs.- if you have a multimeter this comes handy for trouble shooting the connection- try just a simple wiring of lm35 sensor with power supply of 5v and gnd, and check the output (middle pin) voltage to see whether it produce the voltage responsive to temperature changes to make sure the sensor is not broken.- if all good, check the 3.3 v and gnd from esp8266 that it is actually 3.3vPlease let me know how did you go.

Good display of LED matrix

This looks surreal, I actually have one beetle that looks like yours. I am tempted to converted it.

Awesome helmet with so fine details. Great instructions. Do you mind sharing the design file? Thanks in advance.

Very nice and informative. Thanks for the tips on using the fibre glass cloth as the wick.

Thank you for your suggestion on how to fix the problem

Very creative and definitely something that will spark the fun and learning at the same time. Kudos for such a brilliant idea.

Hi,Can you confirm that your cloud support HTTP POST? I didn't use cloud, just a normal webserver with PHP enabled.Also can you check what is returned at the following: DebugLn(data); <======== check the data, this should say "temp_sensor=xx"int httpCode = http.POST(data); String payload = http.getString(); DebugLn(httpCode); <======= check what this return, it should be "200" when success DebugLn(payload); // this will get the response.If your server doesn't support HTTP POST you might want to use HTTP GET, which is much easier to DEBUG.

This is a cool hack for the Digital assistant

Nice use of an old clock.

Yes, it can do wonders when used correctly.

Such an awesome build

Very informative Instructables. Thank you for sharing.

Good Instructions, Thanks for sharing information about ESP32

Seems quite strange, Can you change the following line in handleRootfrom//server.send(200, "text/html", s); <== commented this lineserver.send(200,"text/plain","Hello world!"); <== change to thisthis is to check that the ESP8266 webserver is working, you should see "Hello world! message when connecting to http://192.168.4.1

sorry my bad, I must be thinking of other language. please use//time_t t = now();

Please comment out the following 2 lines also //s.replace("@@HOUR@@", String(hour(t)));//s.replace("@@MIN@@", String(minute(t)));

Hi DJman230, judging from the datasheet of DS18B20, it is a digital temperature sensor. While LM35 is an analog temperature sensor. Arduino can work with DS18B20, but you will have to adjust the part on how to initialise the sensor and modify the way you read the measurement, as it is a much sophisticated temperature sensor. I don't have one to experiment, but I am sure you can find other instructables that are using this sensor.

Hi, Do you want to try commenting the following code in handleRoot() function#time_t t= now();to see whether this fixed your FatalException. You shouldn't be using www, only http://192.168.4.1, but the FatalException is causing ESP not able to show the configuration page.The temperature sensor is reading in Celcius, the reading you have is 70.13 seems a bit high, you might need to calibrate this agains a reference temperature. But we might have to deal with that later. Are you also aware that you are pointing to a non-existing website (www.xxx.gr) to store the temperature?Let me know how did you go.

That is very strange.You might want to try the following:- Main PC connected to ESP via USB and open the serial connection, so that you can see the debug code. - use your mobile to connect to ESP access point, and use the mobile phone to browse to the ESP gateway (192.168.4.1)- check the serial connection debug window in main pc to see whether the handleRoot() function is executed.Please post the debug message if you still can't connect.

If you can see ESP-TEMP, that means it is part of the setup, you need to connect using a laptop or mobile phone, then check the gateway IP, using the browser navigate to the gateway ip. You should get presented with the Configuration page as shown in step 5.At this point in Arduino, it is executing the handleRoot() function, the setting page is constructed in mainPage.h file. I hope this makes sense.As for your second question, you will have to modify the ArduinoData.php. This page reads the data file called temp.txt which store the temperate value posted by ESP8266. You can completely write a new webpage that read the temp.txt. Another alternative is to modify the data_store.php to store the posted value into a database for further processing.

You can adjust the baud rate to the correct baud rate (default is 9600). Adjust it to match the Serial.begin() code.

It looks surreal, excellent scenery, I loved the waterfall

And yes this will work with battery, the ESP8266 module that I have takes 5V input, but if you tap into the 3.3V input you can drive it using the battery, and do a small calibration based on the adjustment code above.

Hi, You are welcome, I only do small calibration by comparing the temperature reading from LM35. ESP8266 operating voltage is 3V, so the maximum reading possible from the analog input is 0-3V. I am only assume that the temperature response is linear, so this is done in the following section of the code. // convert the analog signal to voltage // the ESP2866 A0 reads between 0 and ~3 volts, producing a corresponding value // between 0 and 1024. The equation below will convert the value to a voltage value. analogVolts = (analogValue * 3.03) /1024; DebugLn(String(analogVolts)); temperature = (analogVolts) * 100; The proper way to calibrate this is to look at the datasheet of LM35 to see what the minimum and maximum temperature range and then calibrated this using a reference thermomet...

Hi, You are welcome, I only do small calibration by comparing the temperature reading from LM35. ESP8266 operating voltage is 3V, so the maximum reading possible from the analog input is 0-3V. I am only assume that the temperature response is linear, so this is done in the following section of the code. // convert the analog signal to voltage // the ESP2866 A0 reads between 0 and ~3 volts, producing a corresponding value // between 0 and 1024. The equation below will convert the value to a voltage value. analogVolts = (analogValue * 3.03) /1024; DebugLn(String(analogVolts)); temperature = (analogVolts) * 100; The proper way to calibrate this is to look at the datasheet of LM35 to see what the minimum and maximum temperature range and then calibrated this using a reference thermometer, and then make the adjustment accordingly. I only use this for displaying the temperature inside the home, so I didn't calibrate this to the precision. If you plan to use it for something more serious, you probably want to use a much better sensor than LM35.I hope this helps. Please let me know if you have any further questions.

One word "Incredible", so details and fully functional. This looks so amazing!!!

Thanks for a the good instructions. I use it as the base to make a Wonder Woman shield for my daughter.

Thanks

Thanks Elaina, I am glad that I can make it alive :)

Thank you

Great Instructable, do you mind sharing what Bluetooth Audio module that you used?

HiEvoN2,In the following turn_x procedure:void turn_X(int a){if(a>=0) { digitalWrite(IN1,0); <<== this is what I had change digitalWrite(IN2,1); <<== this is what I had change analogWrite(ENA,a); }else{ a=-a; digitalWrite(IN1,1); <<== this is what I had change digitalWrite(IN2,0); <<== this is what I had change analogWrite(ENA,a); }}If you adjust the turn_x, you need to adjust the turn_y as well to the opposite. You also might have to adjust the connection to arduino if you follow the diagram#define IN1 6#define IN2 5#define IN3 4#define IN4 3#define ENA 7#define ENB 2

No sadly, I was very close. I had the magnet on my palm and it almost settled but a small shake makes it fell to one of the side. I only tried using 1 and 2 magnet of the same size to levitate. Now I’m thinking of getting a smaller magnet as shown in the video to see whether it makes any difference.

Thank you for the for the instruction, what is the pin on the transmitter module?

You can also search "magnetic levitation" in Aliexpress, you will find a few different variant of the device. There is another instructables showing how to float the object with the magnet at the bottom. https://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Air-Bonsai-Levitation/

Initially I had the same issue the coils gets too hot. I had to play around with the polarity of turn_x and turn_y. I think ideally when there is no magnet, there shouldn't be any current consume (stable state), but I can't get this to work properly, it seems like to find the centre of the steady state is almost impossible.

You can try to swap the polarity in the code for turn_x, and turn_y. Do one at a time by commenting out the code to magnetise x or y coil. I think ideally when there is no magnet above, there shouldn't be any current.I am getting close to this state. Then when you put the magnet on it feels more stable and not so jumpy, I am almost able to let it go.

You can try to swap the polarity in the code for turn_x, and turn_y. Do one at a time by commenting out the code to magnetise x or y coil. I think ideally when there is no magnet above, there shouldn't be any current.I am getting close to this state. Then when you put the magnet on it feels more stable and not so jumpy, I am almost able to let it go.

You are welcome.

Hi FedY13, The board is only adding bootloader capability, it have regulator so that you can plug 5V via USB, but the pin output from the ESP is still at 3.3V, so if you still plan to use them to sink some current, you need to make sure appropriate level shifter to ensure it is protected. I know it is a pain, but just something to watch out for I guess.

Hi FredY13,Thank you so much for your suggestion, yes you can use the temperature sensor that was rated 3.3V, but at the time this is the one I had in my possession, so I just go with it. Given that the ESP that I had is the one that was connected to bootloader and able to handle the 5V, so this is not an issue. If you want a strip down version that operates with 3.3V this might be an issue.

Kudos, for making world a better place.

Hi PatricioD8,Have you try the simple WifiAccessPoint example to see whether the ESP8266 is working ok? I can simplify the code down so that the access point is hardcoded. Let me know how did you go.

Awesome hack to extend the range of Ultrasonic sensor

Hi RaymendN29,Have you try just a simple wifi setup to see whether the ESP8266 is working, you can try the example code in File->Examples->ESP8266WIFI->WiFIAccessPoint and see how did you go.

Awesome idea

Hi VijayU2,I had add additional step and include the TimeLib library mentioned. I hope it helps.