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srdevil

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  • srdevil commented on oliverb's instructable Arduino Word Clock

    As I ordered 5 front panels I did also make 5 clocks. However I belive 6 LEDS already died. Not so much, since there are more than 1250 LEDs in total but you expierenced this also?Sold 4 pieces for a low price but his clock has 2 dead leds already. For mine not a big problem ofcourse.Those were no bad solders since I tested them seperatly before removing.BTW; the extra menus did work, but not correctly when connected to PC USB port (seperate Powersupply seems to solve it alle).

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  • srdevil commented on oliverb's instructable Arduino Word Clock

    Hi Brett,I see you have been busy with the microwave sensor and some stuff and of course the small word clock.I've been trying to do some change to the clock to improve it a bit more.In version 4.5 in the timeanalog part it's also possible to to the code change for the seconds. This reduces the code even more!@scimsabre I do have the same problem indeed, already noticed that the time was resetting sometimes. Not really important for me because in our country there aren't a lot of blackouts (Netherlands).In the analog mode, the time was unreadable in my opinion. If the time is 18:00, it points up (long leg) and down (short leg). But when the time is 18:59, it still points totally down (short leg) so it lookslike the time is 17:59 on a normal clock.My brother change the code so that if it i…

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    Hi Brett,I see you have been busy with the microwave sensor and some stuff and of course the small word clock.I've been trying to do some change to the clock to improve it a bit more.In version 4.5 in the timeanalog part it's also possible to to the code change for the seconds. This reduces the code even more!@scimsabre I do have the same problem indeed, already noticed that the time was resetting sometimes. Not really important for me because in our country there aren't a lot of blackouts (Netherlands).In the analog mode, the time was unreadable in my opinion. If the time is 18:00, it points up (long leg) and down (short leg). But when the time is 18:59, it still points totally down (short leg) so it lookslike the time is 17:59 on a normal clock.My brother change the code so that if it is >HH:15 the small pointer moves already to the next number. As of this we also increased the resolution in the part between >HH:15 - <HH:45 so that it moves in between this our and the next our. Modified code will be posted below here so this message stays a bit readable.Also for testing purposes we tried to add an extra menu with all light full on (test for bad solders). However it seems impossible to add more than 8 menu's. Do you know any way to add extra menu's Brett? If we add extra menu's the touch buttons seems to stop working and/or work without touching.Also strange was if we tried to boot the clock in Mode 4 for example, it boots in mode 3.I would like some extra menu's for the following options:All ligts (or row 0-15 blinking) on;Word clock without seconds;Word clock without seconds and part of the day;Word clock without part of the day;Now we replaced the tetris game for a mode that blinks row 0-15 and that works fine but we lost tetris..

    #include "timeanalog.h"#include "display.h"#include "time.h"void line(int x0, int y0, int x1, int y1){ int dx = abs(x1-x0); int dy = abs(y1-y0); int sx = (x0 < x1) ? 1 : -1; int sy = (y0 < y1) ? 1 : -1; int err = dx-dy; while(true){ //frame[y0][x0] = true; setFrame(frame2, y0, x0, true); if ((x0==x1) && (y0==y1)) break; int e2 = 2*err; if (e2 >-dy){ err -= dy; x0 += sx; } if (e2 < dx){ err += dx; y0 += sy; } }}void drawTime(int h,int minutes) { // After minute 15 (H:15), we advance the hour by 0.5 . That way, the analog clock points in-between the two hours. // After minute 45 (H:45), we advance the hour by 1, so that the analog clock points at the next hour. float hh = h; if (minutes >…

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    #include "timeanalog.h"#include "display.h"#include "time.h"void line(int x0, int y0, int x1, int y1){ int dx = abs(x1-x0); int dy = abs(y1-y0); int sx = (x0 < x1) ? 1 : -1; int sy = (y0 < y1) ? 1 : -1; int err = dx-dy; while(true){ //frame[y0][x0] = true; setFrame(frame2, y0, x0, true); if ((x0==x1) && (y0==y1)) break; int e2 = 2*err; if (e2 >-dy){ err -= dy; x0 += sx; } if (e2 < dx){ err += dx; y0 += sy; } }}void drawTime(int h,int minutes) { // After minute 15 (H:15), we advance the hour by 0.5 . That way, the analog clock points in-between the two hours. // After minute 45 (H:45), we advance the hour by 1, so that the analog clock points at the next hour. float hh = h; if (minutes > 15 && minutes < 45) hh += 0.5; if (minutes >= 45) hh++; float angle = pi - (float)hh*pi/6.0f; line(7,7, round(HOUR_HAND_LENGTH*sin(angle)+7.0f), round(HOUR_HAND_LENGTH*cos(angle)+7.0f) ); angle = pi - (float)(minutes/5.0f)*(pi/6.0f); line(7,7, round(MINUTE_HAND_LENGTH*sin(angle)+7.0f), round(MINUTE_HAND_LENGTH*cos(angle)+7.0f) );}// Show the current time on the display using an analog clockvoid showTimeAnalog() { // Draw the numbers as points setFrame(frame2, 0 , 6, true); //1 setFrame(frame2, 0 , 7, true); //2 setFrame(frame2, 1 , 11, true); //1 setFrame(frame2, 4 , 13, true); //2 setFrame(frame2, 7 , 14, true); //3 setFrame(frame2, 10, 13, true); //4 setFrame(frame2, 13, 11, true); //5 setFrame(frame2, 14, 7, true); //6 setFrame(frame2, 13, 3, true); //7 setFrame(frame2, 10 , 1, true); //8 setFrame(frame2, 7 , 0, true); //9 setFrame(frame2, 4 , 0, true); //10 setFrame(frame2, 4 , 1, true); //10 setFrame(frame2, 1 , 2, true); //11 setFrame(frame2, 1 , 3, true); //11 drawTime(h, m); // Seconds Display on bottom row addWordToFrame(w_seconds[ int( s / 10 ) ] ); addWordToFrame(w_seconds[ int( s % 10 ) + 6 ]); updateDisplay();}

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  • srdevil commented on oliverb's instructable Arduino Word Clock

    Hi Oliver,I've been very busy for a while to get good front panels, but today they finally arrived! This is my 4th panel since the 3 panels before failed:1. after printing on acryl the black was translucent and the white was printed also2. after printing on acryl the black was translucent3. after sticking a blackout sticker, there was a second white sticker on the back so the letters where not transparent.Now I've contacted another company and I've ordered 5 panels, printed with black on acryl. They told me they are doing this kind of panels also for suppliers like Samsung ed. Normally they print 3 layers black, 3 layers white (to block the light) and than 3 layers black again.[url=https://ibb.co/ex2Uvz]https://preview.ibb.co/jhX7he/IMG_20180821_185254.jpg[/img][/url][url=https://ibb.co/c…

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    Hi Oliver,I've been very busy for a while to get good front panels, but today they finally arrived! This is my 4th panel since the 3 panels before failed:1. after printing on acryl the black was translucent and the white was printed also2. after printing on acryl the black was translucent3. after sticking a blackout sticker, there was a second white sticker on the back so the letters where not transparent.Now I've contacted another company and I've ordered 5 panels, printed with black on acryl. They told me they are doing this kind of panels also for suppliers like Samsung ed. Normally they print 3 layers black, 3 layers white (to block the light) and than 3 layers black again.[url=https://ibb.co/ex2Uvz]https://preview.ibb.co/jhX7he/IMG_20180821_185254.jpg[/img][/url][url=https://ibb.co/csyr8K]https://preview.ibb.co/iYCwaz/IMG_20180821_185328.jpg[/img][/url][url=https://ibb.co/kX6B8K]https://preview.ibb.co/n5hjTK/IMG_20180821_185340.jpg[/img][/url][url=https://ibb.co/dzAGaz]https://preview.ibb.co/kZQ4TK/IMG_20180821_192532.jpg[/img][/url][url=https://ibb.co/maBNFz]https://preview.ibb.co/e9ODNe/IMG_20180821_192538.jpg[/img][/url][url=https://ibb.co/i2dPTK]https://preview.ibb.co/bDgNFz/IMG_20180821_192607.jpg[/img][/url]

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  • srdevil commented on oliverb's instructable Arduino Word Clock

    The front-plates arrived today and looked perfect. Unfortunatly enough there are two problems yet..The letters are not transparant but whiteThe black part is not 'light-resistant'Also the white used should be 'light resistant', but since it is visable on the letters it seems like the wrong white is used since the letters aren't light resistant either...[url=https://postimg.cc/image/cc0mvrdwr/]https://s33.postimg.cc/cc0mvrdwr/IMG_20180716_212155_HHT.jpg[/img][/url][url=https://postimg.cc/image/xlo96lmhn/]https://s33.postimg.cc/xlo96lmhn/IMG_20180716_212425_HHT.jpg[/img][/url][url=https://postimg.cc/image/yb71iza6j/]https://s33.postimg.cc/yb71iza6j/IMG_20180716_214530_HHT.jpg[/img][/url]

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  • srdevil commented on oliverb's instructable Arduino Word Clock

    Hi Brett,I saw your mini word clock instructable today and it looks nice! I saw you made that one with inkjet transparencies.Just for the information, I've requested two companies for a price for perspex/acryl printed photos. Both companies print directly on the perspex and both should be able to print a second layer over the first one to make the black part 'light resistant' so there is no backlight bleeding. I was getting a headache when I was thinking about applying a 500x500 mm vinyl without fingerprints/dust/air bubbles.When the price seems reasonable, i'll order one and post some closeups here including the price!

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  • srdevil commented on oliverb's instructable Arduino Word Clock

    Hi David and Oliver,I've finished frame/electronics (front plate to be made yet) and tested the Tetris game. When I removed a line of 10 to 20? it went up a level from 0 to 1. Didn't check the code how much lines need to be removed, but it seems to work.Only the sound is annoying after a minute =) I'm playing with a flashlight against my frame because the lights aren't lid enough and the trim resistor doesn't seem to do a lot. Also on the prototype I saw it was working, bu not so much. Maybe need to try a different resistance or change the lowest value in the software to a bit higher.

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  • srdevil commented on oliverb's instructable Arduino Word Clock

    @winnerw, I've bendes the sites away dromen the touch buttons andere moe they somehow work. Shenzhen power is plugged in the startup is also always the same, it starts without credits. Is meer toprubrieken touch a button to move it to the time modus.Is expect my real clock tot be finished over +-10 days if im back from holiday. (Only front plate to be made than).If you need a dutch program i can send it to you. If oliver wants ill share with him for the site.

    I can't find the edit button, my phone trows a few dutch words in my answer -_-.I ment: bended away.Plug in the powerStartup starts @credits

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  • srdevil commented on oliverb's instructable Arduino Word Clock

    Hi Brett,You can replace the display of the seconds (time.cpp lines 920 - 1329) by the following two lines:addWordToFrame(w_seconds[ int( s / 10 ) ] ); addWordToFrame(w_seconds[ int( s % 10 ) + 6 ]);Sincerely,S & H

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  • srdevil commented on oliverb's instructable Arduino Word Clock

    Hi Brett,Yeh instructables is messing text up, also in the comments every time. I've added everything in a picture now. In my opinion, in module 1: Cathode = Horizontal. Anode = vertical.In my photo there is a screenshots that says Cathode is vertical. Anode is horizontal. But later your images show the black and red lines, where it says:Anode = vertical = redCathode = horizontal = blackI've inserted the LEDs in module 1 now (need to solder yet) and avoided the bus bars, the wires were long enough to make it to the other LEDs without touching another LED pin.

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  • srdevil commented on oliverb's instructable Arduino Word Clock

    Hi Brett,I think I've found a small mistake on the following step:[quote]Photo 3 Close up section of Module 1 wiring.The Cathode BUS Bars run vertically and the Anode BUS Bars run horizontally on this module. The Anode & Cathode BUS Bars have an 8mm vertical separation.[/quote].However the following text:[quote]Photo 6 The Anode BUS Bars are shown below in Red and are supported off each LED Anode about 2mm off the MDF board.[/quote]When going to the red lines, the Anode bus runs vertical in module 1.This also correspondents with the schematics on Step 18 (your site).LED0-7 = negative (-)LEDA-DP = positive (+)Added a few photo's of the making of the frame, just for fun. I didn't solve the touch buttons not working yet (question from last week) but as you told probably they will work in…

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    Hi Brett,I think I've found a small mistake on the following step:[quote]Photo 3 Close up section of Module 1 wiring.The Cathode BUS Bars run vertically and the Anode BUS Bars run horizontally on this module. The Anode & Cathode BUS Bars have an 8mm vertical separation.[/quote].However the following text:[quote]Photo 6 The Anode BUS Bars are shown below in Red and are supported off each LED Anode about 2mm off the MDF board.[/quote]When going to the red lines, the Anode bus runs vertical in module 1.This also correspondents with the schematics on Step 18 (your site).LED0-7 = negative (-)LEDA-DP = positive (+)Added a few photo's of the making of the frame, just for fun. I didn't solve the touch buttons not working yet (question from last week) but as you told probably they will work in the final board and not correctly on breadboard. Tested a separate button at that works fine so that shouldn't be a problem.

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  • srdevil commented on oliverb's instructable Arduino Word Clock

    Hi Brett,I can't get a reply on your answer, but i'll post it under my question. Thanks for the swift reply.Modifications done after question above:- Added the trim resistor to the LDR- Added resistor (10K) between BST (D7) and ground- Added resistor (10K) between 30 sec sync (D5) and ground.- RTC removed resistor R5 and added CRC2032Problems left:- Touch buttons not working (I'll test a separate button on Tuesday since I don't have any time earlier). Tried software 3.8 and 4.2 but I suppose if both don't work there must be something with my wires/buttons wrong. Since there are only 3 wires this seems odd.- Boot sequence is still strange. I do hear the connect/disconnect sound of USB device on my PC often, at the moment it stops after a while and clock keeps running fine. Sometimes I do s…

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    Hi Brett,I can't get a reply on your answer, but i'll post it under my question. Thanks for the swift reply.Modifications done after question above:- Added the trim resistor to the LDR- Added resistor (10K) between BST (D7) and ground- Added resistor (10K) between 30 sec sync (D5) and ground.- RTC removed resistor R5 and added CRC2032Problems left:- Touch buttons not working (I'll test a separate button on Tuesday since I don't have any time earlier). Tried software 3.8 and 4.2 but I suppose if both don't work there must be something with my wires/buttons wrong. Since there are only 3 wires this seems odd.- Boot sequence is still strange. I do hear the connect/disconnect sound of USB device on my PC often, at the moment it stops after a while and clock keeps running fine. Sometimes I do see the credits even more than once. When plugging in the cable all modules fully lit except module 1 (no led's lit at all). To be done:- I wan't to modify the software to the Dutch language.- Probably I'll have some spare leds because I don't use the sync and PIR, so I'll try to add a birthday message on the correct date.

    Hi Brett,I was planning on building the Word clock also. Just finished another one (building kit) but this one a bit larger and looks even better! The front will be made by lasercutting and black matt powder coating.I've read some comments below from cfb70 and was happy that he found a small error on the LED Matrix pin layout. I've downloaded the new manual and soldered everything without a hassle.This morning I builded the prototype but I've stumbled over a few small problems.1. The touch buttons doesn't seem to work at all. I haven't used these kind of buttons before so i'll test them later separate to see what I'm doing wrong or if the pcb is working at all.2. If I plug in the Arduino, the startup is different every time. Sometimes I do see the 'credits' but this is skipped also someti…

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    Hi Brett,I was planning on building the Word clock also. Just finished another one (building kit) but this one a bit larger and looks even better! The front will be made by lasercutting and black matt powder coating.I've read some comments below from cfb70 and was happy that he found a small error on the LED Matrix pin layout. I've downloaded the new manual and soldered everything without a hassle.This morning I builded the prototype but I've stumbled over a few small problems.1. The touch buttons doesn't seem to work at all. I haven't used these kind of buttons before so i'll test them later separate to see what I'm doing wrong or if the pcb is working at all.2. If I plug in the Arduino, the startup is different every time. Sometimes I do see the 'credits' but this is skipped also sometimes. With startup, all panels light up except module 1.Also time flips sometimes between One and Two oclock in the morning but it doesn't go any further. Also sometimes another time appears, but at least it doesn't count normally.Do I need to set the time in advance before building the rig? Also sometimes it says PIR OFF, but also sometimes this isn't shown.Not connected parts at the moment:Trim Resistor: I've read from cfb70's post what legs need to be used so that won't be any problem.PIR: Design is all for these kind of clocks, paying a bit extra for electricity is not a problem. Also it will dim at night so that's cool.BST: Summer winter time button will be installed laterIn the attachment 2 photo's of the prototype I've build and 2 youtube links of the prototype board startup.Have you seen this behavior before maybe? Or some kind of hint?

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