Tell us about yourself!
I have since learned that the 25C figure is not exactly "standard room temperature" as given in the code, but is considered the "standard charging temperature" for lead-acid batteries. https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/charging_at_high_and_low_temperatureshttps://batteryuniversity.com/index.php/learn/article/charging_the_lead_acid_battery
LOL. Biggggggy, some of us do this for fun and learning, not necessarily to get a cheap product. I started working on this twelve years ago, developing a solar charger/tracker with overcharge protection, dark turn on for load, etc. using discrete components (transistors, op amps, relays and so on). It was a great accomplishment when I got the circuit designed and built, but it was so complex I never took it off the breadboard. My son looked at it and said, "I could do that with one microprocessor and a few resistors!" Hmm.Three iterations and a dozen years later, the tracker is running on an Arduino Nano and an L298N motor driver running linear actuators made with 3d printed parts. It uses 1.5W solar panels with built in blocking diodes and overcharge protection. It work…
LOL. Biggggggy, some of us do this for fun and learning, not necessarily to get a cheap product. I started working on this twelve years ago, developing a solar charger/tracker with overcharge protection, dark turn on for load, etc. using discrete components (transistors, op amps, relays and so on). It was a great accomplishment when I got the circuit designed and built, but it was so complex I never took it off the breadboard. My son looked at it and said, "I could do that with one microprocessor and a few resistors!" Hmm.Three iterations and a dozen years later, the tracker is running on an Arduino Nano and an L298N motor driver running linear actuators made with 3d printed parts. It uses 1.5W solar panels with built in blocking diodes and overcharge protection. It works, and it charges my battery. Total cost over the years, maybe $100. Total enjoyment, priceless. Along the way I learned about microprocessors and coding.But now it's time to add a better PV panel to the tracker, and build Debasish's charge controller, with lots of modifications (adding a PIR sensor to the load, for example). Total cost so far, maybe $100 in parts (but I'll have lots of extras for future fun). And I'll learn about PIR, buck converters, battery charging, and coding.I wish you joy and satisfaction when building your version!
Love this project and in the process of building it.Where is the PID algorithm? I've checked the PID library and I don't see any of it in your code. Temperature is handled in these four lines:OneWire oneWire(ONE_WIRE_BUS); //set up a OneWire to communicate with OneWire devices DallasTemperature sensors(&oneWire); //Pass the above to the Dallas Temp sensorsensors.requestTemperatures(); //get temperature readingtemperature=sensors.getTempCByIndex(0); // poll the first IC on the wire and store in the variable "temperature"Thanks in advance for addressing this.
Nice, clear circuit diagram!
Hooked up as shown, vout fluctuates wildly (0 to 128), as do the temperatures. Is it possible the LM35 is defective?
For more on this subject, see https://medium.com/@cdreimer/lm35-a-not-so-simple-temperature-sensor-for-the-arduino-a62caf0c2cfd
ARDUINO PWM SOLAR CHARGE CONTROLLER ( V 2.02)
Looking at the code, I note that the average room temperature is taken as 25C. I need this project to work outside; where I live (Alberta, Canada) temperatures can range from a very rare 30C to an all too common -35C, with the average annual temperature being 8.5C. What a difference between here and India! Generally, a trickle charge will keep a battery from freezing up, so I expect this will work here in the winter.
murfmv, the .rar is a compressed file, like .zip. Search for free programs to open, like 7_Zip.
murfmb, try replacing LiquidCrystal_I2C lcd(0x27, 2, 1, 0, 4, 5, 6, 7, 3, POSITIVE); withLiquidCrystal_I2C lcd(0x27,20,4);That worked for me in v2.0 from 2014.
Hi, Debasish, a great project that looks quite professional with several improvements over the version I worked on two years ago. A terrific Instructable!However..... Your code says #include <LiquidCrystal_I2C.h> but this library now gives an error on compile, as several have noted. The library even says, in capital letters, THIS LIBRARY MIGHT NOT BE COMPATIBLE WITH EXISTING SKETCHES. I tried v 1.1.2 and 1.1.1 and both versions gave the error.So, which IS the correct one? The library manager shows over TWO DOZEN other LCD libraries. More specific direction would be helpful!
Sorry, dead link.
Jazzmyn, did you ever finish the motorized lifter for this? I'm thinking not, since it's not here. But I'll go scan the thingiverse....
I also had a lot of trouble with the LCD using the original code. I removed all of Dutta's libraries but two:'#include <Wire.h>#include <LiquidCrystal_I2C.h>I edited the I2C address asLiquidCrystal_I2C lcd(0x27, 20, 4); // Set the LCD I2C address for 20 characters and 4 linesI added the init command at the top of the lcd section in Setup:lcd.init(); //turn on the display These changes fixed all my lcd display issues.
Temperature reading fluctuates wildly, from 20 to 35 degrees, even with short leads, a well-regulated 5V supply, and a .1uF decoupling cap.
Clear and simple, easy to follow. But why does the temperature reading fluctuate so much?
The parts list says 10K resisters but the photo shows 1K (brown-black-red) and the handwritten notes say 1K.
Got it. Many thanks, Debasish.
It will take up more room on the perfboard but according to other comments, it will work fine. We'll see -- that's what I'm going to use just because I have one on hand.
With all due respect, that circuit diagram is incomplete. I would appreciate having it show connections to the microprocessor.
Anybody know how to get rid of the annoying drop-down that covers a third of my screen when I try to read an Instructable? Ctrl-Home makes it leave but as soon as I scroll down, it comes back.
Banggood has a variety of cheap 5V buck converters,
Thank you. I tried this in 123D Design and it was remarkably simple.
Source of the skulls? I guess watch for them in dollar stores around Hallowe'en...
Not true at all. I've had 3V 3032 cells last for several weeks with a 20mA LED.
Not really. The button cell is only 3V and will not affect the LED.
Yes. The LED will be just a tiny bit dimmer, hardly noticeable.
We call them BLFNARs (pronounced "Blif-nars"), which is Blinky Lights For No Apparent Reason. A vital part of any electronics project!