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  • thedawnsc commented on thedawnsc's instructable Web Enabled Pool Control - Raspberry Pi2 months ago
    Web Enabled Pool Control - Raspberry Pi

    Yes it is certainly possible. First thought though I'm not 100% sure it would work - just like you said - use two relays to apply the 24v ac to each actuator wire. When you turn both off the motor will have no drive voltage and stop. The issue that would need to be tested is if you applied 24v to both lines by leaving both relays on - what will the motor do? It may drive all the way open and all the way closed again and again... not sure. It would be an easy test - put 24v to both wires and see what happens. Probably not enough voltage to really hurt anything for a short time. Either way, you would need an interface that turns one relay off when the other is turned on to make it work...

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  • thedawnsc commented on thedawnsc's instructable Web Enabled Pool Control - Raspberry Pi3 months ago
    Web Enabled Pool Control - Raspberry Pi

    These are a little harder to see. Pic 1 is a detail pic of the relays. The bottom are pinouts that connect to the pi. The top are normally open or closed relays. The relay marked WFV is a clear example of wiring a valve motor. You can see the middle leg is dark blue. It is tied to 24v. When the relay is off it connects the 24v to the white wires drives the valve open. When energized it connects the 24v to the red wire, driving it closed. Pic 2 (barely) shows the pi in the background - a ribbon cable for easy disconnect from the pi running to the relay wires. Pic 3 is a 120v power strip fed from one leg of the 240v feed wire that powers the pi and the screen. Pic 4 is a pic of the pi from above. You see an extension cable from the memory card slot so I can change the memory card easy (wo...

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    These are a little harder to see. Pic 1 is a detail pic of the relays. The bottom are pinouts that connect to the pi. The top are normally open or closed relays. The relay marked WFV is a clear example of wiring a valve motor. You can see the middle leg is dark blue. It is tied to 24v. When the relay is off it connects the 24v to the white wires drives the valve open. When energized it connects the 24v to the red wire, driving it closed. Pic 2 (barely) shows the pi in the background - a ribbon cable for easy disconnect from the pi running to the relay wires. Pic 3 is a 120v power strip fed from one leg of the 240v feed wire that powers the pi and the screen. Pic 4 is a pic of the pi from above. You see an extension cable from the memory card slot so I can change the memory card easy (worth the cost!!!). And finally pic 5 is a wifi antenna because the signal was too weak inside the cabinet.

    The 2nd box is a bit simpler to see what is going on. The 1st pic is where all of the relay wires are attached to the wires running under the ground. Pic 2 is where the wires come into the greenhouse and are connected to the relay box. The 3rd pic are all of the outgoing wires. 3 LEDs, 2 waterfall LEDs, a 120v wire for general lighting, 120v for the spa blower. The 4th pic is of the components. 7 relays - labeled - the silver and white boxes are the waterfall LED controllers and the cream box is the transformer for the pool LEDs. The middle device is my wireless pool fill device. All of the components are attached to plexiglass and the wires are running behind the glass. Hope all of this helps. Let me know when you complete your program - would love to copy some of it. Good luck!

    I would love to see what you do with SmartThings when you are complete. Before we go though the email exchange process I'll try to post them here...Give me a couple of days.

    1st photo is cabinet 1 total. Picture 2 is the high voltage motor drives. The distribution block (black with screws) on the top left (and a closeup in pic 3) is where the 240v comes in. You can see I jumper that across to other circuits. Look close and you see small 24v wires to the relay coil (orange on the left relay) which switches the red and black of the 240v back to the pool pump. Each of the 24v wires is switched from the pi to the blue relays, to the high voltage relays. You can see the commons and neutrals are all wire nutted together - I switch the hot leg to all outputs through the relays. In the middle of pic 2 are the two 24v transformers (120v to 24v) that I mention earlier. One power all of this box. The other a 2nd box - pics to come.

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  • thedawnsc commented on thedawnsc's instructable Web Enabled Pool Control - Raspberry Pi3 months ago
    Web Enabled Pool Control - Raspberry Pi

    The question about the two 24v transformers, this may be over engineered but the reason there is two was I have have 9 or 10 relays and 6 automated valve motors and half of them are closer to the pool - about 40 feet from the main controller - so I use one transformer for the main room - 4 relays, 6 valves (admitted they don't energize all at the same time...), and the second transformer runs 6 relays 40 ft away through small thermostat wire - so I was concerned that there would be a voltage drop. So... I figured better safe than sorry... If you post your email address I'll send a lot of pics.

    Thank you... yes, still around. I went through two options with the heater. My first was to use the 24v inputs detailed on page 31 of the user manual. You move Jumper 3 and hook up 24v inputs for the pool and spa separately (The diagram calls the input "Spa Line" & "Pool Line"). This had the benefit of being able to select 2 temps with two relays but it had a drawback of the panel becomes inactive so if you want to change the temp you have to move the jumper position - set the temps - move the jumper back - cycle the power. This year I converted over to the more conventional setup. I installed a 24v relay in line with the "Firemans Switch" - which took me a while to figure out - but very simple after you know where to wire. On the same page, bottom righ...

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    Thank you... yes, still around. I went through two options with the heater. My first was to use the 24v inputs detailed on page 31 of the user manual. You move Jumper 3 and hook up 24v inputs for the pool and spa separately (The diagram calls the input "Spa Line" & "Pool Line"). This had the benefit of being able to select 2 temps with two relays but it had a drawback of the panel becomes inactive so if you want to change the temp you have to move the jumper position - set the temps - move the jumper back - cycle the power. This year I converted over to the more conventional setup. I installed a 24v relay in line with the "Firemans Switch" - which took me a while to figure out - but very simple after you know where to wire. On the same page, bottom right of the wiring diagram you see a text box that starts with "Replace Jumper with" - it is a yellow jumper. You wire the relay here. When you energize the relay it energizes the power board so you can change the temp - but you only have an on and off so if you want to change the temp to have to walk to the heater. My plan install a temp sensor and upgrade my software to measure the temp and turn the heater on and off. More to come on that... I am strongly considering Openhab - if you develop something and are willing to share that would be great!

    One other REALLY important point I forgot to add - Using the first option puts 24v directly to the control board which is low voltage. I had a board failure and I was concerned that it may have contributed. The second option deals with the 120v (or 240v) input.

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  • Web Enabled Pool Control - Raspberry Pi

    Thank you... you are definitely asking the next set of questions. Unfortunately I don't have them all solved yet. Right now my pump is on a mechanical timer. I have looked into the timer function built into Linux on the Pi, but I have not tried to get it working (just as you say I have TOO many projects).Initially I designed my system to work my chlorinator with its own button, but thought better of it. I have it wired to the main pool pump. As soon as the pump comes on the chlorinator turns on. I don't think mine senses the level - mine has a % on button that I keep on 80%.I have 3 valves now as well. All 3 are 3 way valves. I am in the process of installing 3 more for better controls between the spa, fountains, pool, and now my solar heaters that I just got finished last weeke...

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    Thank you... you are definitely asking the next set of questions. Unfortunately I don't have them all solved yet. Right now my pump is on a mechanical timer. I have looked into the timer function built into Linux on the Pi, but I have not tried to get it working (just as you say I have TOO many projects).Initially I designed my system to work my chlorinator with its own button, but thought better of it. I have it wired to the main pool pump. As soon as the pump comes on the chlorinator turns on. I don't think mine senses the level - mine has a % on button that I keep on 80%.I have 3 valves now as well. All 3 are 3 way valves. I am in the process of installing 3 more for better controls between the spa, fountains, pool, and now my solar heaters that I just got finished last weekend. The valve motors have a cam where you can set two different stop positions - CW and CCW. Unfortunately, using just one relay, you can only stop on one of those two positions.On the heater - I am not sensing the temp yet - I use 24v inputs on the heater and the heater measures the temp and turns on and off. The problem with that is I can't adjust the temp from my phone. I have purchased the sensor and the fitting to pipe it in is on the way as well (if it works). I see on-line tutorials ((http://webiopi.trouch.com/Tutorial_Devices.html) on how to setup the monitoring of the temp, but not how to turn it on and off with the temp - so I have some work to do there.My new solar system also does not sense the temp... I installed it with its own dedicated pump and set it up so the valve opens when the pump turns on to move the warm water to the pool. My plan is to put it on a timer as well. If I turn the system on, I want it to circulate into the pool every 30 min when the sun is up. I'll be working that in the coming weeks.Bottom line, is like you I well versed in visual basic - so the coding logic is not difficult - the coding syntax is painful. You can see I have enough python and html to get it working, but not enough to get the timers integrated - yet... I did have a gentleman (https://www.instructables.com/id/Hottub-Pool-Contr... share is controller program files, that are much more sophisticated than mine, which I plan to utilize. But I am also exploring other options that are just "prettier" - such as OpenHab - as one person suggested. (http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/getting-started-openh...I'm more that willing to send you my files - in exchange for you sharing if you are able to integrate the timer and temp controls.

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  • Hot Tub / Pool Controller  Web Interface

    I need help on the fitting to pipe it into the water. I see in your pic you got a fitting and threaded it into a threaded cap. Can you send me information on the silver fitting? Where you got it? Thank you! Nice work... I'm still developing on mine...

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  • Web Enabled Pool Control - Raspberry Pi

    Would love to the see the openhab front end. That is the first time Ive seen it, but it does look nice! Look forward to your project. Let me know when you have it wrapped up!

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  • thedawnsc followed thedawnsc2 years ago
  • Web Enabled Pool Control - Raspberry Pi

    I added some material and wiring descriptions. Hope it helps.

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  • thedawnsc followed thedawnsc2 years ago
  • Web Enabled Pool Control - Raspberry Pi

    Thanks DylanD581!

    I did not create a full wiring schematic, but I will try to add the materials list this weekend. I'll try to add some wiring details as well.

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