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thedawnsc

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  • Web Enabled Pool Control - Raspberry Pi

    Sorry... no cummunications... just relayed on and off.

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  • Web Enabled Pool Control - Raspberry Pi

    Mine is a Pentair MasterTemp 400. I don't have the temp monitoring built. It still uses the keypad for the temp settings and regulation. There is a low voltage interface where you can apply 24v to one connector to select pool, the other for spa settings. I had control board problems after a couple of years. I decided to switch to the high voltage side so I did not interface with the control board directly. The manual said to put the control relay in line with the "firemans switch". In this picture, the fireman's switch is the fuse with the yellow wires, at the bottom right. I wired the 24v relay in-line where the small yellow loop is connected. If you setup the temp and software, this is the config to turn it on and off. When you have the setup running, I would love to get…

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    Mine is a Pentair MasterTemp 400. I don't have the temp monitoring built. It still uses the keypad for the temp settings and regulation. There is a low voltage interface where you can apply 24v to one connector to select pool, the other for spa settings. I had control board problems after a couple of years. I decided to switch to the high voltage side so I did not interface with the control board directly. The manual said to put the control relay in line with the "firemans switch". In this picture, the fireman's switch is the fuse with the yellow wires, at the bottom right. I wired the 24v relay in-line where the small yellow loop is connected. If you setup the temp and software, this is the config to turn it on and off. When you have the setup running, I would love to get the code from you. Hope this helps!

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  • Web Enabled Pool Control - Raspberry Pi

    This looks promising... https://www.instructables.com/Raspberry-Pi-Temperature-Sensor/ at least a great start.

    John, sorry, I don't. I like your idea. Can you post a pic or parts you used to put the thermistor into the piping?

    Joh, thanks for the reply. I have not seen a 2 wire thermistor used on the Pi, but I am sure it is possible. I like the design. Easy install!

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  • Web Enabled Pool Control - Raspberry Pi

    Glad I could help :-)

    Stephen, controlling the valve drive motors is pretty straight forward. On the drive motor, there should be a common - wire that connects to one end of the 24vAC transformer. Then there should be 2 wires left. When you apply 24vAC to one it will spin one way. Apply 24vAC to the other it will spin the other way. To do that, you attach the other side of the transformer to the middle of a blue relay. Then one of the Drive wires to the left terminal, the other to the right. When you trigger the relay with the Pi, it will connect the 24vAC transformer to one leg of the drive motor. Hope this helps...

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  • I am still using it... holding up very well. Had to replace the memory card a year ago - but all is well. Only small modifications - added a couple of additional valves. I am wanting to use a better software to make it look better, but life is too busy.

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  • Good morning! I could not log on yesterday - odd. But it is working today. Send me an email to thedawnsc@gmail.com. The link is broken, but I save the whole page into a pdf back when I was programming it. I can share that across email and sharing my control files is not a problem as well. They are pretty darn basic. I really want to upgrade the software side, but it still works.

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  • Mine did not have the controls per se. It had a timer on the pump and manual valves. If there were a remote keypad, you are right, it probably would not be worth the effort.

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  • Yes it is certainly possible. First thought though I'm not 100% sure it would work - just like you said - use two relays to apply the 24v ac to each actuator wire. When you turn both off the motor will have no drive voltage and stop. The issue that would need to be tested is if you applied 24v to both lines by leaving both relays on - what will the motor do? It may drive all the way open and all the way closed again and again... not sure. It would be an easy test - put 24v to both wires and see what happens. Probably not enough voltage to really hurt anything for a short time. Either way, you would need an interface that turns one relay off when the other is turned on to make it work...

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  • I would love to see what you do with SmartThings when you are complete. Before we go though the email exchange process I'll try to post them here...Give me a couple of days.

    1st photo is cabinet 1 total. Picture 2 is the high voltage motor drives. The distribution block (black with screws) on the top left (and a closeup in pic 3) is where the 240v comes in. You can see I jumper that across to other circuits. Look close and you see small 24v wires to the relay coil (orange on the left relay) which switches the red and black of the 240v back to the pool pump. Each of the 24v wires is switched from the pi to the blue relays, to the high voltage relays. You can see the commons and neutrals are all wire nutted together - I switch the hot leg to all outputs through the relays. In the middle of pic 2 are the two 24v transformers (120v to 24v) that I mention earlier. One power all of this box. The other a 2nd box - pics to come.

    1st Pic - Main Power - Orange wire is 240v. The white and yellow wires are outputs. The 2 white wires are 240v back to the pool and spa pump. The yellow is 120v to a small solar heater pump.

    The 2nd box is a bit simpler to see what is going on. The 1st pic is where all of the relay wires are attached to the wires running under the ground. Pic 2 is where the wires come into the greenhouse and are connected to the relay box. The 3rd pic are all of the outgoing wires. 3 LEDs, 2 waterfall LEDs, a 120v wire for general lighting, 120v for the spa blower. The 4th pic is of the components. 7 relays - labeled - the silver and white boxes are the waterfall LED controllers and the cream box is the transformer for the pool LEDs. The middle device is my wireless pool fill device. All of the components are attached to plexiglass and the wires are running behind the glass. Hope all of this helps. Let me know when you complete your program - would love to copy some of it. Good luck!

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  • Thank you... yes, still around. I went through two options with the heater. My first was to use the 24v inputs detailed on page 31 of the user manual. You move Jumper 3 and hook up 24v inputs for the pool and spa separately (The diagram calls the input "Spa Line" & "Pool Line"). This had the benefit of being able to select 2 temps with two relays but it had a drawback of the panel becomes inactive so if you want to change the temp you have to move the jumper position - set the temps - move the jumper back - cycle the power. This year I converted over to the more conventional setup. I installed a 24v relay in line with the "Firemans Switch" - which took me a while to figure out - but very simple after you know where to wire. On the same page, bottom right …

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    Thank you... yes, still around. I went through two options with the heater. My first was to use the 24v inputs detailed on page 31 of the user manual. You move Jumper 3 and hook up 24v inputs for the pool and spa separately (The diagram calls the input "Spa Line" & "Pool Line"). This had the benefit of being able to select 2 temps with two relays but it had a drawback of the panel becomes inactive so if you want to change the temp you have to move the jumper position - set the temps - move the jumper back - cycle the power. This year I converted over to the more conventional setup. I installed a 24v relay in line with the "Firemans Switch" - which took me a while to figure out - but very simple after you know where to wire. On the same page, bottom right of the wiring diagram you see a text box that starts with "Replace Jumper with" - it is a yellow jumper. You wire the relay here. When you energize the relay it energizes the power board so you can change the temp - but you only have an on and off so if you want to change the temp to have to walk to the heater. My plan install a temp sensor and upgrade my software to measure the temp and turn the heater on and off. More to come on that... I am strongly considering Openhab - if you develop something and are willing to share that would be great!

    The question about the two 24v transformers, this may be over engineered but the reason there is two was I have have 9 or 10 relays and 6 automated valve motors and half of them are closer to the pool - about 40 feet from the main controller - so I use one transformer for the main room - 4 relays, 6 valves (admitted they don't energize all at the same time...), and the second transformer runs 6 relays 40 ft away through small thermostat wire - so I was concerned that there would be a voltage drop. So... I figured better safe than sorry... If you post your email address I'll send a lot of pics.

    One other REALLY important point I forgot to add - Using the first option puts 24v directly to the control board which is low voltage. I had a board failure and I was concerned that it may have contributed. The second option deals with the 120v (or 240v) input.

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  • Thank you... you are definitely asking the next set of questions. Unfortunately I don't have them all solved yet. Right now my pump is on a mechanical timer. I have looked into the timer function built into Linux on the Pi, but I have not tried to get it working (just as you say I have TOO many projects).Initially I designed my system to work my chlorinator with its own button, but thought better of it. I have it wired to the main pool pump. As soon as the pump comes on the chlorinator turns on. I don't think mine senses the level - mine has a % on button that I keep on 80%.I have 3 valves now as well. All 3 are 3 way valves. I am in the process of installing 3 more for better controls between the spa, fountains, pool, and now my solar heaters that I just got finished last weekend…

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    Thank you... you are definitely asking the next set of questions. Unfortunately I don't have them all solved yet. Right now my pump is on a mechanical timer. I have looked into the timer function built into Linux on the Pi, but I have not tried to get it working (just as you say I have TOO many projects).Initially I designed my system to work my chlorinator with its own button, but thought better of it. I have it wired to the main pool pump. As soon as the pump comes on the chlorinator turns on. I don't think mine senses the level - mine has a % on button that I keep on 80%.I have 3 valves now as well. All 3 are 3 way valves. I am in the process of installing 3 more for better controls between the spa, fountains, pool, and now my solar heaters that I just got finished last weekend. The valve motors have a cam where you can set two different stop positions - CW and CCW. Unfortunately, using just one relay, you can only stop on one of those two positions.On the heater - I am not sensing the temp yet - I use 24v inputs on the heater and the heater measures the temp and turns on and off. The problem with that is I can't adjust the temp from my phone. I have purchased the sensor and the fitting to pipe it in is on the way as well (if it works). I see on-line tutorials ((http://webiopi.trouch.com/Tutorial_Devices.html) on how to setup the monitoring of the temp, but not how to turn it on and off with the temp - so I have some work to do there.My new solar system also does not sense the temp... I installed it with its own dedicated pump and set it up so the valve opens when the pump turns on to move the warm water to the pool. My plan is to put it on a timer as well. If I turn the system on, I want it to circulate into the pool every 30 min when the sun is up. I'll be working that in the coming weeks.Bottom line, is like you I well versed in visual basic - so the coding logic is not difficult - the coding syntax is painful. You can see I have enough python and html to get it working, but not enough to get the timers integrated - yet... I did have a gentleman (https://www.instructables.com/Hottub-Pool-Contr... share is controller program files, that are much more sophisticated than mine, which I plan to utilize. But I am also exploring other options that are just "prettier" - such as OpenHab - as one person suggested. (http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/getting-started-openh...I'm more that willing to send you my files - in exchange for you sharing if you are able to integrate the timer and temp controls.

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  • I need help on the fitting to pipe it into the water. I see in your pic you got a fitting and threaded it into a threaded cap. Can you send me information on the silver fitting? Where you got it? Thank you! Nice work... I'm still developing on mine...

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  • Would love to the see the openhab front end. That is the first time Ive seen it, but it does look nice! Look forward to your project. Let me know when you have it wrapped up!

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  • I added some material and wiring descriptions. Hope it helps.

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  • I did not create a full wiring schematic, but I will try to add the materials list this weekend. I'll try to add some wiring details as well.

    Thanks DylanD581!

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