Yup, I have this very same module and it's powerful enough to burn through balsa, even plywood. I haven't tried it on anodized aluminum, but I doubt it would work on any sort of metal, there's just not enough power in these small lasers to do that.
Yup, with the right amount of power (2W+) you should be able to cut 1/8 balsa, no problem - though you might need air assist and fine-tuning the settings to prevent it from catching fire. Multiple passes and lots of experimentation is recommended.
Steel needs an industrial grade laser module, that far outweighs the price of your printer. Like this one https://amzn.to/2y6PYIz
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Cheap and Simple UV Curing StationView Instructable »
It's been a while since I messed around with the NC file conversion to Gcode. I even wrote a processing app to do that, but I need to dig it all up.
Have you been successful engraving stuff with Gcode from other sources (like Laribo)?
You should check and see what the voltage is at when you send S15. There might be some losses due to the wires and soldering. It might be a good idea also to remove the fan from the circuit to see if there's any difference. Your laser module might also not be as powerful as 5W - I've seen many Chinese laser modules claiming high wattage, but in reality they're around 1-2W.
Weight so far hasn't been an issue at all. I encourage you to give it a try, it's a whole new world of possibilities with your machine!
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I think your laser module needs a pull-down resistor: a 1-4 kOhm resistor between TTL+ and GND-. Hard to tell from what you've just described as to what the issue might be.
If I use my 5W for engraving on cardboard I do power levels of around 5-10. It really comes down to experimenting with the right amount of power for the material. The reason that part caught fire is because the fill pattern is optimized for the size of the bed - if you scale it down it basically will go over the same spot with very little variation, which ultimately will set the material on fire - especially cardboard!
If I understand you correctly, you’re planning to switch out the board for the MK3? The whole idea behind this project was to expand the capabilities of the MK3, if you change the board it basically devolves the printer into a lesser capable machine. I’m not sure why you’d want to do that to a $700+ 3D printer. If laser engraving is that important to you, consider buying an actual laser engraver, which can be bought for less than the price of the MK3. Using an external power source for the laser is the way to go, or you could step down the 24v from the extruder to 12v, however for that to work you’d have to be able to switch between what should be on, the extruder or the laser - I definitely do not recommend having the extruder on while you use the laser.
It goes in the recessed part in the middle of the motor, butted up against the back of the motor. I'm sure you figured it out by now :)
Laribo is not an editing tool, it's only meant for conversion from SVG to MK3 compatible gcode. Resizing and editing the SVG is way better done in a vector editing software.
It's not a problem if the wattage is too high, as you can always just use it at a lower value. I have a 5W laser and often time I use it at 20% if I need to do engraving.
Laribo v1.1.0 beta version released: https://vandenmar.com/laribo/
Solid state lasers (any of these smaller ones) can only do simple things, like burn, maybe cut soft materials (paper, wood, etc.). Glass, or any metal etching, not to mention cutting is out of the capabilities of these small diodes. If you're planning on doing stuff with metal and glass that's only possible with the more powerful CO2 lasers.
Sorry for the wait. I'm releasing the current version as a beta: https://vandenmar.com/laribo/. It's sometimes buggy if you are using the opacity features, but otherwise it should work as the previous version.
Had to put the project on hold for now. Still having a couple bugs...
Actually, I misspoke. It's `M106 S1` instead of `S0`.
Hey, cool idea! I'm curios what use-case made you go the STL/Slic3r route and commend you for taking the initiative to create your own tool. As for the erratic laser ON behavior: make sure not to use M107 (turning the laser off), instead use M106 S0. The prusa firmware will spin the fan up for 800ms after it was stopped, which will turn the laser ON full blast for the same time too. You can disable this in the firmware (FAN_KICKSTART_TIME set to 0) but you'll have to compile it yourself and then keep doing it after each new firmware release.
Hey Erik, thanks! Just sharing my solutions.As for the lasers, most of the ones labeled "module" will all have a controller - some have it mounted on the unit, some come with the controller as a separate part. I have both kind and it really is just a matter of cooling and the size of the PCBs that makes them different. Modules will have the control board, the ones I saw that come without are just actual laser diodes. As long as it says something like TTL or PWM in the posting you should be fine.Cheers!
NEW Laribo updates! Thank you for all the feedback and suggestions. I recently updated my laser to a 5W module, and with that I took some time to make some upgrades.v1.1.0:- Sliders updated for more precise control, including typed entry- A recent firmware update by Prusa caused some unwanted behavior, where the fans would be blipped to 100% upon any new fan speed command - I implemented fixes so this wouldn't cause issues with lasers. Thankfully I found a solution that made it possible to solve this without changing the firmware.- Now you can adjust the maximum power intensity of the laser via a slider. This is useful if you have a powerful module but you only need a fraction of the power available to engrave without setting everything on fire.- Opacity applied to paths in the SVG will t…
NEW Laribo updates! Thank you for all the feedback and suggestions. I recently updated my laser to a 5W module, and with that I took some time to make some upgrades.v1.1.0:- Sliders updated for more precise control, including typed entry- A recent firmware update by Prusa caused some unwanted behavior, where the fans would be blipped to 100% upon any new fan speed command - I implemented fixes so this wouldn't cause issues with lasers. Thankfully I found a solution that made it possible to solve this without changing the firmware.- Now you can adjust the maximum power intensity of the laser via a slider. This is useful if you have a powerful module but you only need a fraction of the power available to engrave without setting everything on fire.- Opacity applied to paths in the SVG will translate to percentage of power! Now it's possible to engrave AND cut within a single file, or create the illusion of gradients! The intensity slider will also affect this in proportion with the opacity values (e.g. SVG path opacity of 50% will burn at 50% intensity if the slider is set to max; if it's set to 50%, the same path will be burnt at 25% intensity)- Opacity changes will be reflected in the Gcode preview as wellRelease and test pictures coming soon!