weish

looks like a solid way to make small,light-duty taps such as for jewelry work, where you're only tapping copper/silver/gold and don't need the sort of toughness and durability tapping something hard like steel requires. i'll be making use of a similar method to make some jewelry taps soon, since proper micro-taps are super expensive and prone to breaking

i know this is an old article, but i have a question. do you think the bells would sound properly if they were lined up together on a rod with spacers to separate them, and rung by solenoids/hammers striking the bottom edge? i'm designing a big 3d printed mechanical clock project and i'm thinking that rather than a single untuned bell salvaged from a rotary phone used to chime the hours i'd create a compact carillon with either 4 or 8 notes by putting a set of bells on an axle.

and sadly, no matter how many experiments you use to demonstrate a round earth, they'll just plug up their ears, close their eyes, and howl gibberish at you until you get tired of them and leave, at which point they declare victory over you. they don't believe in any science, or even math, that doesn't agree with their nonsense.

i wouldn't feel too bad about sounding goofy on your first few tries, everyone sounds ridiculous when first learning to play brass instruments like trumpets and horns

i first saw a watermelon chicken recipe in the easter eggs of the dvd of "buckaroo banzai's adventures across the 8th dimension" and have always wondered what it's like.

i'm curious about the choice to use a time-of-flight sensor to generate a point cloud rather than using this same hardware setup to automate the capture of several hundred images to be processed via photogrammetry with a free program like colmap or meshroom. do you have any examples of the models you've generated using data captured with your setup?

this seems like a good way to build a living fence, if you just wove a ton of willow switches into a flat sheet

in jewelry terminology, the tip you call the "glubber" is called a dop, usually used for gem cutting, it's a stick with jewelers pitch on the end that you warm up and stick the stone onto to hold it stable while cutting facets.

i appreciate you including the eagle libraries for the custom parts you made. i definitely like the idea of a pcb faceplate with capacitive buttons and an attractive soldermask and silkscreen. you could even use monochrome vector artwork on the silkscreen to really jazz up a panel

with some materials, like copper, you will need to anneal periodically to prevent cracks from forming. the cup could be raised from thick sheet using various hardened steel stakes to back the work and a soft hammer to raise and shape the sheet. that sort of raising does thin the metal considerably, so you want to be careful not to overwork an area and get cracking and splitting.

you'd definitely want a left handed version if you're left handed, since otherwise you'd have to cut toward yourself. i'm not sure if there's a benefit to left and right handed blades for carving, since this is largely for marking out mortices/tenons/etc in joinery and chip carving

how long does it usually take you to forge one of these? i love the design by the way, looks like a great practice for shaping, drawing out, punching and fullering, i'll definitely be making a bunch of these once i have my forge running

this looks pretty neat. for those of us who wear eyeglasses, how hard would it be to modify the 3d printed portions to work with an existing frame and lenses. i'd love to try out something like this, but i need my glasses to correct for astigmatism.

that's really cool. I'll remember that trick we the sare component leg as an offset for the flush cutters next time I'm soldering anything through hole

i've never understood these alternative energy people who are paranoid about their "idea" being stolen. if they patent, it's all going to be out there anyway, and if they don't they can't sell or license it without it being stolen anyway, so what are they protecting, their lack of profits and licensing deals? not to mention that if they die, it's probably all going to be lost because they didn't document or collaborate out of fear of someone stealing the idea they're not making any money from. sounds like your friend is a paranoid nut, or his machine is a fake, because if i had this idea and wasn't making money off of it, i'd just file patent docs and let any friends who were interested build their own, share the wealth. inventors like to show off, as much as they can, while fak…

i've never understood these alternative energy people who are paranoid about their "idea" being stolen. if they patent, it's all going to be out there anyway, and if they don't they can't sell or license it without it being stolen anyway, so what are they protecting, their lack of profits and licensing deals? not to mention that if they die, it's probably all going to be lost because they didn't document or collaborate out of fear of someone stealing the idea they're not making any money from. sounds like your friend is a paranoid nut, or his machine is a fake, because if i had this idea and wasn't making money off of it, i'd just file patent docs and let any friends who were interested build their own, share the wealth. inventors like to show off, as much as they can, while fakers have to hide as much as they can to obscure their deception.

you could improve precision and reduce chatter by using the first version of the CNC to cut more precise parts to replace the hand made parts and give perfectly square and precisely drilled holes. the linear motion could be improved with cheap ACME rods and bearings off Ali Express to get rid of the backlash and slop inherent to normal threaded rod or belt drive setups. also, rubber gaskets between motor/router mounts and the frame would dampen vibration. just a few ways you could further improve your current machine.

cool concept. any chance of posting the eagle files for your GM tube board design? it's a much cleaner design than i imagine i could pull off and it would really drop the bulk of my project versus using one of those large mightyohm boards. good smd hand soldering practice too i imagine.

all silicon semiconductors are sensitive to radiation, and in this case you have an unshielded diode already intended for sensing, which if you reverse bias the diode and shield it from visible light, you can register the hits from beta and gamma (alpha rarely can penetrate even thin fabric shielding) radiation by amplifying the tiny signal you get and reading the output data with a microcontroller. depending on how you set it all up, you can even get a rough idea of the energy level of the particle that caused the hit.