Quick Shifter Under $50! Kazeshifter Arduino Adjustable Quick Shifter

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Introduction: Quick Shifter Under $50! Kazeshifter Arduino Adjustable Quick Shifter

About: I love making something about electronics, making something awesome and cool that I've never make before!

Hi Superbike or motorcycle lovers!

On this instructable, I'll share how to make your own Quick Shifter for cheap!

For people who lazy to read this instructable, just watch my video!

Note : For some bikes that already using Fuel Injection System, sometimes Check Engine indicator light up. just turn off the ignition key and turn it on again. but it's so infrequently so it will be okay

Enough intro just go to the steps!

Last updated : August 8, 2020 (Just update the god damn part lists, I forgot to put 1k vr).

I don't make changelog coz am lazy, it's too much

Support me on Patreon !
https://www.patreon.com/kazemito

Subscribe to my Channel !
https://www.youtube.com/c/KazemitoHaruhi

Step 1: 1. What You Will Need? How About the Schematic?

READ THE SCHEMATIC FIRST, MAKE SURE YOU ARE NOT FOLLOWING WRONG SCHEMATIC.
OLD SCHEMATIC WAS REMOVED SOME PEOPLE HAVING TROUBLE WITH I2C LCD.

So here is the parts that you will need :

  • Schematic(READ THE SCHEMATIC MAYBE I FORGOT TO INCLUDE SOME PARTS)
  • Arduino Nano, or anything smaller than nano if you want
  • ON OFF Switch (for bypass switch)
  • Relay module
  • 100uF/25v and 1uF/16v Capacitor
  • 150 ohm Resistor and 1 LED for indicator
  • PCB (small is enough)
  • Small Multipurpose Box
  • 1N4007 Diode or any kind of
  • Rear Brake Switch with the spring or use Reed switch with magnet (easier to install and adjust)
  • Steel Bar for making the spring holder and brake switch
  • Pin Headers
  • small 1K ohm Variable Resistor (some people call it trimpot)

for the brake switch, I'm using switch for Honda Grand because it's cheap

I don't use MOSFET because it cause problem last time, and I have no idea why. You can try it if you want and don't forget to change the code.

Step 2: 2. Code? Here Is..

I've made some revisions on this code, just check up my Github Gists page!

Here is the Code. No display version because a lot of people got problem with the LCD not displaying anything, and most of them don't know how to find the LCD Address, so stick with no display version.

Sorry for giving the code on other website :(

Step 3: 3. Solder All Components Into the Board!

Make sure you use small and tight fit all components inside the box, so you can get compact fit on your motorcycle and not use much space on it!

This pictures is early build of my project, so I hope you can ignore mess that I made and it uses MOSFET (before accident happened.) lol actually no accident just FET is blown.

To set the timing, you should edit the code that I've mention on the code, usually uses 60ms - 100ms, and it depends on your motorcycle! make sure you use higher first then slowly decrease it 5 by 5 (100, 95, 90, etc).

Step 4: 4. Sensor/Switch Mounting

(Update) First things! You need to lubricate the brake switch, so it won't stuck if it's get wet and dry many times and keeps it smooth. Any lubricating liquid will work fine.

For the spring holder, I used the steel bar and you can place the spring holder anywhere do you want, or just mount it on the bolt that near on the footrest.

but I'll mount it and use the spring holder under the footrest

and route the spring behind the pedal rod linkage. (am I right?)

anyway, for the placement of the switch, i mount it on the shift linkage rod and I fix it with Zip Ties after I set the sensitivity

ah, you need an LED (12v or whatsoever) to know where the sensitivity is, just connect the LED to the switch and begin setting the sensitivity.

you might need to reset the sensitivity when you test it on the road. don't too sensitive or it might ruin your day (but for what I made the bypass switch?)

when routing the cable, give it a small excess of the cable or whatever it called. don't tighten the cable or you won't be able to downshift

Step 5: 5. Connect Everything!

First thing is place the module under the seat and remove bolts from the tank, route the cables from the relay on the module under the tank, make sure isn't pinched by the tank and keep away from it. then find the ignition coil.

after you found the coil, unplug 1 cable from the coil, then connect 1 cable from the relay on the module to the coil. and connect other cable from coil that has been unplugged from the coil to the other cable from the relay on the module

Route positive (VCC) and clutch cables from the module under bike frame, make sure isn't pinched by seat.

For the positive input (VCC) I connect it to the blinker relay, because it goes directly to the ignition key and every motorcycle is different wiring so you should search the nearly power source from the ignition key

and clutch cable (from the module) I connect it to the Clutch Relay

Negative cable? just connect it directly to the battery or the bolt on the bike frame (Ground)

don't forget to connect the switch relay! or it might not work

Step 6: Test It!

That's it for this project, I hope you like my creation and forgive my lack of information telling detailed information about mounting, circuit, schematic, etc. because I have no idea last time and don't know how to perfectly make a tutorial video. This project maybe started on September 2018 and that's why I new at video making and tutorial video

Come and support me !

Support me on Patreon !

https://www.patreon.com/kazemito

Subscribe to my Channel !

https://www.patreon.com/kazemito

Instructables

https://www.instructables.com/member/TresNaa/inst...

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    52 Discussions

    0
    abc_600
    abc_600

    12 days ago

    Hi, just wanna ask if this would work on 4cylinder?thinking about getting the wires from the side stand or kill switch than going thru the ignition wires..

    0
    TresNaa
    TresNaa

    Reply 9 days ago

    Hello,
    I already test on Yamaha R6 and R1, it works flawlessly with no problem.
    If you don't want to cut your wiring harness on you bike, maybe you can just cut from engine kill switch.

    0
    danguy2009
    danguy2009

    Question 3 months ago

    Very interested in making this? What is the purpose of the clutch switch? is that just so that the ignition does not cut when you have the clutch pulled in and shift from 5, 4,3,2 1? Someone else mentioned that you have removed this function? how do u stop the bike stalling without it. for bikes without clutch switch you could install one of those cheap hydraulic clutches and use a hydraulic brake master switch and connect clutch switch to that.

    0
    Franc_Bisson
    Franc_Bisson

    Question 8 months ago

    Hi, is there any reason you are not including the clutch switch in your latest update? Thx.

    0
    TresNaa
    TresNaa

    Reply 5 months ago

    lot of people don't know where to wire it up, so I remove it to make it more clean setup

    0
    Tightwad
    Tightwad

    1 year ago

    Fairly new to Arduino and I am trying to understand why you have/need:
    Serial.begin(9600);
    Serial.println("initializing");

    For this project. I am reviewing the code to try and understand what each part does. Additionaly I am confused about:
    lcd.setCursor(16,0);
    lcd.print(char(4));
    lcd.setCursor(14,2);
    lcd.print(char(4));

    As both references for the setCursor location are outside the bounds of the 16x2 LCD (min would be 0,0 and max 15,1). I'd appreciate any feedback!

    0
    TresNaa
    TresNaa

    Reply 5 months ago

    it just for debug when I developing the code and making sure it's working properly. it's not necessary if you don't need that you can delete it

    0
    ДмитрийВ14
    ДмитрийВ14

    Question 7 months ago on Introduction

    Hi.

    What if to put resistor on NO terminals of relay to +12V? Maybe it will help to prevent CEL?

    How does ECU recognises misfire?

    0
    diesu
    diesu

    8 months ago

    Hello, excuse me, but you have two drawbacks for which your project does not work correctly, the first, no matter how much you cut the negative of the coil if you bridge it with the resistance of R2 330ohm, you still keep the coil electrified so it will give at least one more ignition, the coils are always electrified what the ecu does to give the ignition order is to cut the ground connection and that is when the spark occurs.

    The second thing I see wrong is that on a large-displacement motorcycle with a serial exhaust, it will explode or damage an exhaust valve, since the unburned gasoline that is being thrown into the exhaust will explode and has no space sufficient exhaust, with an open exhaust you do not have this problem.

    Have you not thought about making the cut in the injectors?

    Greetings Diego

    0
    TresNaa
    TresNaa

    Reply 7 months ago

    Hi Diego,
    For the ignition coil i have no problem with that, the resistor was needed to manipulate ECU / ECM so he will not detect broken ignition coil. I have made more than 30 modules and works fine.
    Also the ignition coil does not have enough current to ignite the spark plugs, even on "engine on" state voltage (14v - 14.5v). It will not ignite. I already test it in real life. You can test it, if still ignite I'll update the circuit.

    Second is, this schematic is for single or dual cylinder engine (most people had one or tho cylinder engine, and some people don't want to risk their engine if they don't know what they doing. and need to develop or improve it again for their spesific engine), if you use on multi cylinder isn't recommended like you said before it will explode.
    I have research a lot of QS module, mostly like Healtech QSE it doesn't connect to injectors, i have no idea and i know it's dangerous.
    And my thought is, even no ignition and unburned fuel, it will push out to exhaust on high rpm, and that's the reason why manufacturers don't make it work under 4000RPM (it can cause explosion and ratio gear or shift gear wear too fast because unsyncronize shifting) and when at high rpm it will spitting fire. It's just my thought if I wrong feel free to correct me.
    Injectors should be disabled on multi cylinder engine for safety reason. Maybe I'll give update.

    Thanks for suggest, I really like inputs from people like you who cares about project drawbacks and issues! these can improve my projects and thought for my upcoming project.

    Best regards,
    Kazemito



    0
    xx.subsonix.xx
    xx.subsonix.xx

    8 months ago

    I made a nice potted reed switch pair and just mounted it between engine case and shifter, trigger is magnets on the shift lever. Now I have nice up and down shifts 🙏🏼🏍

    0
    TresNaa
    TresNaa

    Reply 8 months ago

    Great! I hope you found some improvement over my project! Great job!
    I also just wondered using reed switch long time ago but I'm lazy to open up my motorcycle again to adding revisions to this project

    0
    prsnld7
    prsnld7

    11 months ago

    Hi. Can you please post a picture of the circuit. I tried to follow the video, but I am unable to understand the connections.

    What are the resistors used?

    0
    prsnld7
    prsnld7

    11 months ago on Introduction

    Hi. Can you please post a picture of the circuit. I tried to follow the video, but I am unable to understand the connections.

    0
    andrean_
    andrean_

    1 year ago

    Have you found a solution why you MOSFET died? I kinda guess is has to do with the voltage levels of the pick up. The pickup isnt referenced to the ground, so im not sure what the V_GS would be.
    What im still wondering, Did you put a 7805 etc. between the Clutch and shifting sensors and the Arduino Inputs? both are 12V output i guess?.

    1
    TresNaa
    TresNaa

    Reply 1 year ago

    You might need to add some diodes from power supply, but I think that's already grounded. and D7 or clutch switch pin is protected with diode, so 12v positive will not flowing through.
    And for the Mosfet, I'm not touching this project since last update, because relay still worth it for long term use. (And yes, mine still working fine) also, working for another projects.

    0
    mohammadh150
    mohammadh150

    2 years ago

    hi..why when i complete the circuit, the relay keep switch on it self..??

    0
    mohammadh150
    mohammadh150

    Reply 2 years ago

    Do you mean that don't use that low level relay? What if i just use normal relay?