Introduction: 3D End Grain Cutting Board
We all have a cutting board at home, some people prefer the plastic ones others the wooden ones and some people like me prefer the wooden ones but with a 3d pattern on them not because the work better than all the others but because they also look cool!
So I have decided to make a cutting board with a pattern on it ,it was just an experiment really, I just wanted to see if I could make it and the truth is I am really happy with the way it turned out. It is the first one I have ever made and the next one will be even better and of course bigger!
You will need three different species of wood. A dark wood (I used Iroko) for the (A, F and E) pieces, A lighter (beech) for (B, D, G) and an even lighter wood for C. For the C parts I used white oak but the best would be maple.
So have fun reading my instructable, try to make your own cutting board and stay safe.
Please check out my video for more details:
For this build you will need:
- Band saw or table saw
- Waterproof wood glue
- Hand plane
- Sander
- Sand paper
- Mineral oil
- Miter saw
- Tape measure
- Safety gear
- PATIENCE!
Step 1: The Jig
The best way to make accurate bevels and cuts is to use a table saw,so if you have one you are lucky. Unfortunately I do not have one so I had to find a way to cut bevels on the band saw. I built this jig in 20 minutes before I start my cutting board project and it turned to be really useful. It is consisted by two pieces of melamine that you can lock at an angle and cut a bevel on the band saw.
Step 2: Parts "A" and "B"
The main idea is to create a long piece consisted by several smaller pieces of wood that create a pattern and then once you slice it you can arrange one piece next to the other and create the surface of the cutting board.
So we start by cutting out the two inner pieces (A and B on the plan)
We have to make two triangles, one out of beech and one out of Iroko. So I set up my jig at 60° and cut my pieces 2.0 x 2.5 cm. The total length of all pieces was 70 cm.
Step 3: Gluing Pieces "A" and "B"
Glue the two pieces together with a waterproof wood glue and clamp them down for a few hours.
Step 4: Parts "C"
You will have to make something that looks like the piece in the first picture.
Start by milling four pieces of white oak 0.9 x 5.0 cm. Set your jig at 30° and make a bevel on each one on the one side. On the other side cut a bevel at 60°.
Glue all the pieces together as shown on the first picture.
Step 5: Parts "D", "E", "F", "G"
Start by taking a 1.1 x 2.0 cm piece of beech and cut a bevel at 30° on one side, then do the same for one more piece of Iroko. These are the parts "D" and "E".
Cut two 1.2 x 6.0 cm pieces. one out of beech and the other one out of Iroko. Cut a 60° bevel on one side of each one. Then glue them all together as shown on the picture 7 and apply some pressure with some clamps.
Step 6: Planing
Cut any excess wood on each side and sand it smooth. You should now have something that looks like my piece on the last picture.
Step 7: Slice It!
Once you have your work piece ready slice it in 2.5 cm slices. I have used my radial arm saw for this but you can do it on your table saw as well.
Step 8: Making the Pattern
Glue your pieces on a piece of marine grade plywood. This will give strength and your board will not warp.
Once the glue dries cut your cutting board to its final width and height.
Step 9: Finishing
As a last step you can add some pieces of 1.0 cm around the edges of your cutting board to make it look better. Use mineral oil to preserve your cutting board!
27 Comments
Question 4 years ago on Step 9
This is beautiful! Do you have a picture of what the sides look like before you added the wood frame around it?
5 years ago
what are the overall dimensions of this cutting board?
5 years ago
What should be used for any gaps or cracks, given this is to be a food safe surface?
Reply 5 years ago
Ive been making cutting boards for years....I use organic Coconut oil. Microwave a bit till its liquid. Then rub it in good with paper towel....Let it sit over night so it can absorb the rest. Wipe off excess in morning. Food safe, and doesnt leave a bad taste on the food ur cutting. Also use a lemon and Coarse salt to scrub the top. removes odors and cleans... I use a rough steelwool after years of use and then coat with coconut oil. If it needs some freshening up....Sometimes I will bust out the sanders and make them look good as new....But I always make mine at least 2 inch thick so even after years of sanding its still a nice heavy thick cutting board. Just an idea if u want to make a cool counter top piece that will be out all year round.
Reply 5 years ago
I use the beeswax for the cutting boards I already have, but coconut oil should work nicely also.
I was wondering what to use when "making" the cutting board, and there's a gap (wandering blade, warped wood...), or if the board ever splits and creates a gap - what should be used as a filler?
Reply 5 years ago
Well do ur best to make sure wood is true and straight to begin with.....The best advise I can say is Lots of glue and As many clamps as possible. The more clamps the better. Even when u feel u have enough on there. If u have more and can fit them USE THEM.....Easier to never have it break then to repair. But if u must. I like the Saw dust and Glue mixture to fill holes... Try to use same color saw dust as the piece of wood the with the crack or gap....Save some Scraps till ur done with project.
Also Beeswax works well also. I just like the way coconut oil smells. And its not too greasy when its absorbed.
Reply 5 years ago
Like I wrote this cutting board was more of an experiment for me. There are many people here who could give the best answer. I made a putty from titebond iii and very fine saw dust from the wood I made the board from. I filled some small gaps with it.
Reply 5 years ago
Wow! Thank you for all this info you provide. Like I wrote this cutting board was the first one I have ever made. My next ones will be better thanks to your pieces of advice.
Reply 5 years ago
I made a putty from titebond iii and very fine saw dust from the wood I made the board from. I filled the gaps with it. Although I suppose there should be a better way.
5 years ago
Awesome...just beautiful and really nicely explained. If I live long enough I will make this some day...!
Reply 5 years ago
Start making one today. It is not that difficult.
5 years ago
Класс!!! Прикольно!
5 years ago
You're right. This does look cool ... :)
5 years ago
Quite beautiful. Excellent instructions.
If you were to use this pattern for something thinner, say a box lid, which i am sure would still need a backing board, how thin do you think this could be cut and still maintain its shape integrity?
Also, have you created or considered creating an instructable for your bandsaw angle jig?
Reply 5 years ago
Hi! thank you for your comment. I think that anything above 3mm would be ok. About my jig, a few people asked me about it so yes I will make a video and an instructable about it.
Reply 5 years ago
Oh good 3mm would make a decent thin layer. thanks.
I look forward to reading your next and future tutorials.
5 years ago
Well developed process and end result. How long did it take to construct?
Reply 5 years ago
Hi, it took me 3 afternoons for this. Mostly because I had to wait for the glue to set.
5 years ago
Lovely piece of work! I held my breath watching you clamp some of those triangular pieces together edge to edge, but it turned out very well. I also admired your band saw jig. A nice instructable, clean, well described excellent video and pictures.
Reply 5 years ago
Ha! yes I know the clamping process was not the ideal for the job. But anyway I am lucky it worked out well.