Introduction: !!Awesome!! DIY Mini Bluetooth Speaker BoomBox Build Dayton Audio ND65-4 & ND65PR

About: I mainly take on projects I have seen here and put my own twist on them. I also like to take garbage or thrown out electronics and make something nice from them. I have no certain area of Expertise, I am new a…

Here is another one. This one I decided to go with ND65-4 and the Passive brothers ND65PR. I really like the way the little 1-inch speaker build I did a while back and really wanted to make a bigger one with the 2.5-inch speakers. I really like the way oak looks once it is stained and clear coated. I also decided on this one I would mount the speakers behind the wood, instead of panel mount like my BoomBox build. I really love the way this one turned out and the sound is AMAZING!!! I still have many many builds like this one to come. Make sure to visit my Youtube channel here-

Where I do much more than just simple Bluetooth Speakers. I try to keep it open on the projects I do and I am always looking for suggestions. I also try and make sure what I build is something anyone with a little knowledge like myself could do easily. From Tools to Powerwalls, to Bluetooth Speakers, you never know what I am going to build next! Make sure to subscribe!

Luckily approached me and asked if they could sponsor one of my videos. Just in time for this build!! Thank you jlcpcb!! $2 For 5 PCBs & Cheap SMT(2 Coupons):

There weren't that many Supplies used to build this and the cost was under 50$. Here are the supplies i used.


2 x Dayton Audio ND65-4 2-1/2" Aluminum Cone Full-Range Neo Driver 4 Ohm-

2x Dayton Audio ND65-PR 2-1/2" Aluminum Cone Passive Radiator-

2 x 2Pcs HiFi Speaker, Silk Film Dome Treble Speaker, Tweeter HiFi Loudspeaker, Top Silk Film Speaker, Super Treble Large Speakers, 20mm Vibrating Diaphragm HiFi Speaker-

Defender Security U 10347 1/2-Inch 160-Degree Door Viewer, Satin Nickel, Solid Brass-

2 x MKP CYCAP 2.2uF 400V Tubular Audio Capacitor MKP-kondensotor-4172-

TPA3116 2x50W Wireless Bluetooth 4.0 Audio Receiver Board/DIY Stereo Amplifier Module DC 8-26V Remote Control-

Self-Stick 1/2" Noise-Dampening Bumpers-

5 x NCR18650BF 3350mah-

5S 15A Li-ion Lithium Battery BMS 18650 Charger Protection Board 18V 21V Cell-

Kapton Tape-High Temperature Heat Resistant Tape Polyimide Film Adhesive Tape-

Gorilla Clear Grip Contact Adhesive, Waterproof-

Gorilla Wood Glue, 8 ounce Bottle-

Oak from the local Hardware store along with Misc screws

Step 1: Stage All Your Parts and Pieces, Even If You Don't End Up Using

I like to stage all parts and pieces I am going to use, just so I get a rough idea of the build. This lets me know how I might throw it together. This also allows me to inspect the components for defects. main components are listed above, please contact me if you have an issue finding anything else.

Step 2: Using Masking Tape and Calipers, I Mark the Speakers, Tweeters and Passive Placement

To prevent marking up the oak and having to erase any markings. I use masking tape before I start the process. Just encase I mess up. If I mess up, I simply pull off the masking tape and start all over with no harm to the case. Using the Calipers, I measure the speaker's diameter and divide that by 2 to get my center. I place the speakers on the case to figure out where I want them placed. I also like to write the measurement of the cutout next to the dot I mark for the cutout. Oak is one of the more spendy of the hobby woods. So make sure you have them marked exactly where you want them before doing any drilling. Hobby wood I had laying around from an earlier project. If I had to guess the cost of the wood was a cheap 5-10$ for a 3-foot piece.

Step 3: Using a Punch, I Punched All Holes and Then Started to Predrill for the Holesaw

Because oak is pretty hard, I used a punch to help mark the holes I need before drilling. Next, I started with the smallest drill bit I had and worked my way up to 3/16. My hole saw uses a 1/4" so the 3/16 holes help guide the hole saw when cutting out all holes needed. The hole saw I used was 2 1/8" on the speakers and the passive. On the Tweeters, I used 1 1/8" I pulled off all masking tape and used sandpaper and files to clean up edges for now. I also like to double-check and make sure the speaker fit and clear each other. I also made sure the amp would clear.

Step 4: Cleaned Up and Round-over-ed All Edges by 1/8"

With a DIY Dremel router table I made (Video and Instructable coming soon). I cleaned up all edges with a 120 grit drum sander(Dremel). Then I put a 1/8 round-over bit in the router table's Dremel and put a small profile on all edges and holes.(Pictures from a previous build)

Step 5: Glued and Clamped the Box, Minus the Back. I Also Marked and Drilled Screw Holes for the Speakers

After I added the profile, it was time to start gluing up the oak box. After I glued everything up, I used heavy batteries to hold in place. Once that was complete, I added the Speakers and marked where the screws went. Then with a small 1/8 drill, I drilled each mark. I waited 24 hours in between each glue and clamp.

Step 6: Drill the Holes for the Handle and Then Glued the Face to the Front

I had to make sure the tweeters would fit with the handle I picked, so I measured and dry fit everything to double-check. Then I glued the face to the front and used weights to hold in place 24 hours.

Step 7: Sand With Block and Then Round Over All Box Corners and Edges

Using a Block and sandpaper, I started with 120-220 grit and made sure all was square and all parts where sanded. After I sanded even the back panel. I took back to the DIY Router table and put a 1/8 round over on all edges.

Step 8: Cut the Peepsight and Then Finish All Drilling Including the Back Panel

If you look at a peep sight, it as a small magnifying glass end. I decided to use that end, and cut it 3/8 of an inch so I could mount it and it wouldn't look like a peep sight. I also drilled the 1/2 hole in the front and used the cut off piece to tap the hole for threads. Then I finished up the holes needed by centering and drilling the power switch, the DC jack and the balance cable. Last I predrilled the screw holes for the Tweeters.

Step 9: Stain and Clear All Surface Areas of the Box

Using Golden Oak 210B, I put one coat of stain and then waited 20 mins and added another. Once I added the final coat and the stain dried for 24 hours, I added Spray on Clear Coat. This time I added 4 coats. The drying time before handling is only 1 hour, but 24 hours before handling/using and 48 hours for a durable coat.

Step 10: Build a 5S 21V Battery With BMS

Using Leftover NCR18650BF 3350mah 18650 li-ions, I had leftover from a previous project. I decided to go with a 5S battery pack with BMS. The Welder I use was a Malectrics spot welder at 20ms.I also used 99% Nickel strip on the battery. The BMS is only 15amps max and should work well on this build. I have used this on other Bluetooth speaker builds.

Step 11: Seal the Inside Corners and Add the Peepsight

Using Silicone, I sealed all inside corners and edges and allowed them to dry. Then I added the peep sight and held in place with superglue, later using silicone to seal

Step 12: Add the Speakers, Passive Speakers, Tweeter and Handle & Seal

Carefully I add the passive speakers first. because of the seal, I am using on everything. It likes to flow for a good 10 minutes after. So after I do the passives, I wait a good 4 hours, before moving to the next step. I also had to add the handle and tweeters, only because the main speakers will get in the way of the screws. again I seal with the same silicone and waited 4 hours. Last I added the speakers and sealed. Once it is dry I can move onto the next step of the build.

Step 13: Solder the Speaker Wire and Capacitor

With this build, I used a 2.2uf 400V Capacitor to block the bass from the tweeter and paralleled it to the ND65-4. I made sure to solder the Caps on the positive side. Then I added the negative in the same way

Step 14: Solder Up the Balance Cable and Add Components on Back Panel

Because the Bluetooth is apart of the amp, It makes all components easy. I need the balance cable, power switch and DC jack on the back panel. After adding all of those, again I add the same silicone I've been using. I'll set this aside to dry while I move onto the next step.

Step 15: Apply the TPA3116 Amp With Bluetooth, the Test Amp With Power Supply

I added the power wires and then added the speaker wires before screwing into the box. I also add a little silicone to the btm to help hold in place. When placing the amp in the box, I have to make sure the IR receiver sits in the window, After I added the amp, I connected the power to a PSU at 21V 5amps to see if I connected everything correctly. Everything worked!!

Step 16: Solder the Back Panel Wiring Then Connect to the Box

Because the power switch use a small LED, I added an 1000ohm resistor to the negative side directly to the negative outside of the DC jack. This allows me to use 21V through the switch. Then I soldered the wiring to accept the power to throw the switch and connect to the battery. It's pretty basic wiring. Then I connected the positive and negative from the back panel to the amp. Once complete, I can add the battery and silicone in place.

Step 17: Glue on Back Panel and Add Feet

After I felt all silicone was dry, I used wood glue and clamps to glue the back panel on. I waited 24 hours and then add the little rubber feet.

Step 18: Turn the Power on and Test!! Enjoy!!!

This was a very simple build minus the wait time for drying. This sounds amazing and the video does not do this speaker justice. Make sure when you watch the video, you use headphones for the best experience. Also, make sure you start at a low volume, so you don't blow your speakers on your laptop or desktop. Thank you guys for watching and thank you guys for reading!! Make sure to subscribe if you haven't!! Let me know if you have any questions!!!

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