author2
3Instructables18,330Views22CommentsKent WashingtonJoined July 21st, 2017
I mainly take on projects I have seen here and put my own twist on them. I also like to take garbage or thrown out electronics and make something nice from them. I have no certain area of Expertise, I am new at all this DIYING. But I like to keep my focus around 18650s. Was very difficult when I first started, researching anything DIY and you get terminologies, I may never understand. But I am pretty quick at figuring them out, so please ask me if you have any questions, I will give you the B... Read More »

Achievements

10K+ Views Earned a bronze medal
    • Easy DIY 12V 220CCA 340CA Car Battery 18650 Tab Spot Welder (#4th Build)
      404 views
      12 favorites
      0 comments
  • DIY Capacitive Discharge 18650 Spot Battery Welder #6

    I learn everything from Experienced Members like you 200%. I'm an old Roughneck from Texas/New Mexico and old Millwork Manufacturer Manager/Carpenter from Seattle. I wanted to start building those really neat Bluetooth Speaker Boom Boxes, and along my journey, somehow, ended up building Power Supplies, Soldering Stations and Tab Welders like Crazy. (Still, have all my parts saved for my first Bluetooth build last year...LOL)1 year later, and I still value everything anybody can teach me. 200% You will probably find me on YoutTube asking those Experienced builds questions after question after question. I OCD research every little part and piece. Newbie here!! The person I got the idea for the old APC UPS case, used a Hockey Puck Style for his and he gets pretty close to the same results....

    see more »

    I learn everything from Experienced Members like you 200%. I'm an old Roughneck from Texas/New Mexico and old Millwork Manufacturer Manager/Carpenter from Seattle. I wanted to start building those really neat Bluetooth Speaker Boom Boxes, and along my journey, somehow, ended up building Power Supplies, Soldering Stations and Tab Welders like Crazy. (Still, have all my parts saved for my first Bluetooth build last year...LOL)1 year later, and I still value everything anybody can teach me. 200% You will probably find me on YoutTube asking those Experienced builds questions after question after question. I OCD research every little part and piece. Newbie here!! The person I got the idea for the old APC UPS case, used a Hockey Puck Style for his and he gets pretty close to the same results. I think he even got one of those fake 2F caps, that's actually only 0.6-0.4F also. He uses a LM317 psu and the APC transformer to power his. The guys I got the idea of using Buck and Boost Converter uses the same 100amp SCR. But he has since upgraded his system to a bigger meaner machine. Both guys used the same type of system with the same result. I wasn't sure if I could post the link to both video's, but I posted both names to look up. They both have some really great content on Capacitor welders.What I have found with the Capacitor welder, and this might be because of its small Capacity. I can only do the Pure Nickel Strip at about 0.15mm x 0.08MM Safley(or to my personal standard and I am picky). If I try Nickel Plate, it sticks and it normally sticks great, I am just not 100% confident so I don't even bother using it anymore(it works great with my other welders). If I find, I need a thicker piece for amp draw, I will just double up the strip and go over it 2 times. or I lay a bead of solder across the strip and then add the second strip(not sure if this right, but it works?).Currently, I am in the middle of a smaller PowerWall and it takes up a lot of my time. But while I test Batteries, I try and catch up on my videos(1 year worth) I also have 2 other welders I am planning. both very small and both very powerful. Hopefully as soon as I finish this powerwall.Thanks again for the comments and Thanks for taking a second look! I really really appreciate it!

    Thanks for your comments, and I do value your feedback. Me Not showing the welder in action, could also mean, that this video was done a few months back with the intention of having a showdown of sorts(as I explained). While you can assume all you want, I can assure you this is a top-notch welder as long as you have the patience to wait inbetween welds. I am in no way shape an expert at filming and these were done in the begging of my journey. This welder has proven to give me the best welds to date, next to my 12v Battery Tab welder. If you have followed me outside of Instructables, then you know I have 7 welders total. And I use them Daily on certain projects.I would never ever(NEVER EVER) cover anything up, I have absolutely NOTHING to hide. Not sure why you would get that impression...

    see more »

    Thanks for your comments, and I do value your feedback. Me Not showing the welder in action, could also mean, that this video was done a few months back with the intention of having a showdown of sorts(as I explained). While you can assume all you want, I can assure you this is a top-notch welder as long as you have the patience to wait inbetween welds. I am in no way shape an expert at filming and these were done in the begging of my journey. This welder has proven to give me the best welds to date, next to my 12v Battery Tab welder. If you have followed me outside of Instructables, then you know I have 7 welders total. And I use them Daily on certain projects.I would never ever(NEVER EVER) cover anything up, I have absolutely NOTHING to hide. Not sure why you would get that impression of me. I try and make sure I leave even my mistakes in my videos and tutorials, so people know when I make a mistake. The actual plan at the time was to have a showdown of welders. I have made these welders in just about everyway I could think of, except the China Circuit I have seen showing up here and there. A 6ohm 50-watt resistor will take 18 volts from a .6F capacitor all day long and not break a sweat. It never gets a smidgen warm. The SCR, is only powering a .6F cap at 18V at the most. Both the resistor and the SCR can handle all the way up to 2F easily! The only heat generated is by the leads and the Cap itself, if you discharge to fast and do not wait in between welds. If you check the other Youtubers Video's I mentioned. You will also see they have had no issues using the same components. It doesn't take to much energy to create a clean weld. believe or not?The reason I chose to make a low voltage welder, was to show I could. There is no actual reasoning, this is DIY and every once and awhile you see something and want to try building it for yourself. Not every DIY is for something intentional. Sometimes, you just feel like doing something. If you check my Google+ profile, you will see other welders I have completed. I plan on releasing those videos as time permits. With the plan on doing the caparison Video as soon as I finish my 7th and 8th welder(both low powered)But again, I do value you feedback and I can't wait to see your Capacitor welder when it is done! I will add you here on Instructables! Thanks for your comments!

    I apologize, I am in no way an Electrician. If you look at the Schematic/Pictorial I created. You will see a blown up written out picture of the CSR. It is connected by a 3.7V battery, a resistor to keep the amps below 150mA and a Momentary Button. Power from the cap is released when the Monetary button is pressed. Because there is no longer power after the press/weld, the CSR closes.

    View Instructable »
  • njfulwider5 commented on iceng's instructable WISH ROCK6 weeks ago
    WISH  ROCK

    Beautiful colors and Blue so Blue! one of my Favorite Colors! Great Post!!

    View Instructable »
  • njfulwider5 followed iceng6 weeks ago
      • Lucky Penny 4 You
      • MAGIC  ROLLING  STEPS
      • PULLING  IRON  From  GOLD BEACH
    • DIY Capacitive Discharge 18650 Spot Battery Welder #6
      2,083 views
      46 favorites
      4 comments
  • njfulwider5 followed russ_hensel8 weeks ago
      • Python in a Bottle
      • Raspberry Pi Platform
      • Smarter Arduino Programming - Tips and Tricks
  • DIY Capacitive Discharge 18650 Spot Battery Welder #6

    I have written both types, but I never really knew what I should call this version. I know with Circuits, I would draw out a schematic and with a Build like this, I would simply add smaller Pictures to represent the component used. I always thought a Pictorial was a little more detailed. I noticed most DIYer would just simply call theirs a schematic also, and I figured I would just do the same. To me, it was not quite a pictorial, and Not quite a schematic.Thanks for the comment.

    View Instructable »
    • DIY High Voltage 8V-120V 0-15A CC/CV Small Portable Adjustable Bench Power Supply
      10,433 views
      91 favorites
      29 comments
  • DIY High Voltage 8V-120V 0-15A CC/CV Small Portable Adjustable Bench Power Supply

    Are you looking for a US seller? I will take a peek at my purchases from 2017 and see if that seller is still selling the 2 boards. I'll post them here once I find the links.

    There is only one Power supply that supplies a voltage of 24V 6-9amps. Then it is directed to a Boost Converter that boosts the supply voltage to the desired voltage. If you need voltage smaller then 24V, you can flip the 2p2t switch on the top of the unit and use the DC jack. With the DC jack, you can plug in any voltage as long as it is above 8 volts. If You have a battery pack and what to take the small supply on the go, you could also use the DC jack as long as you have the correct adapters. I have a Few XT60 to DC jacks I like to use.Schematics are in the video, and Step 2 has the Schematics also(see pictures).Thanks for commenting!

    Thanks!!Let me know if you have issues seeing it. If you can't make it out, I can take a clearer picture and post here.

    Been playing around with some transistors and temp sensors. I just haven't the skill set to make the circuits, but I have been researching. I have built a few of the PWM controllers but found at my current level of experience. It far cheaper to just use a Buck converter with Potentiometer(1$). I have a circuit board I created with JLpcb, that works pretty good I might start using. I just built a Dremel where I played around with a few different designs, but ended up deciding against it. I learned to allot with that project.(I didn't post the experiments in the video, out of embarrassment)...LOL. I am sure as I keep building these, I will get to a point when I use PWMs and Temp sensing.I actually didn't even think about the shorting? I believe the Boost converter has some protection agai...

    see more »

    Been playing around with some transistors and temp sensors. I just haven't the skill set to make the circuits, but I have been researching. I have built a few of the PWM controllers but found at my current level of experience. It far cheaper to just use a Buck converter with Potentiometer(1$). I have a circuit board I created with JLpcb, that works pretty good I might start using. I just built a Dremel where I played around with a few different designs, but ended up deciding against it. I learned to allot with that project.(I didn't post the experiments in the video, out of embarrassment)...LOL. I am sure as I keep building these, I will get to a point when I use PWMs and Temp sensing.I actually didn't even think about the shorting? I believe the Boost converter has some protection against shorting, but from what I hear it can still blow mofset if you don't watch the connections(Using a diode to prevent some of this). I have The other type(plastic looking red and black). I might just swap them out for saftey reason. Thanks for bringing that to my attention! I was to caught up in the look..LOLI don't seem to have any issue with the EMI like the other guy mentions, but if you look at his other comments, he seems to have commented the same way on other posts, other than mine. Guess this is something he worries about. The Power supply has some filtering(I believe) to help prevent this.If there is any EMI spilling, it is so small, it would never cause any issues anywhere. I use a cordless phone plugged in right next to this.(don't have a way to measure yet, but looking for something I can afford). Love your Idea on the shielding!I still feel pretty safe about the build. The Main 24V Power supply is earthed and fused.The Boost converter also comes with its own set of fuses.(the AC side is Earthed and Isolated from all DC connection) All connection are isolated with shrinkwrap and HotGlue, some area with both..LOL I also used New Silicone wire, instead of used. I really feel confident its a safe machine.Thank for the comment and the compliments! Thanks for the constructive Feedback. I will definitely look into changing out the Banana plugs. I have allot more I will be posting here, once I get a chance. Please take a peek and if you see any way I could better the design, or maybe you see something I am doing wrong. Please comment. I am fairly new and Still learning, with each build. I have learned mostly from watching Youtube Videos and Instructables. Hoping to pass along some of the stuff I have learned(from trial and error) to other. This Build is actually one of my simplest and easiest to build. Thanks again for the Constructive Feedback and suggestions!

    View Instructable »
  • DIY Variable Power Supply With Adjustable Voltage and Current

    Great Job, Clean Look! Congrats btw!

    View Instructable »
  • DIY High Voltage 8V-120V 0-15A CC/CV Small Portable Adjustable Bench Power Supply

    Both Power supplies(24v and Boost converter) are pretty good at EMI, and Both have protection in place. I am not 100% sure how they are built, but I have never had any type of interference with any equipment I use. This actually sits 2-3 feet from our living room tv, Internet, Wireless telephones and Bluetooth Speaker system. Never had any issues. I am sure the people that designed both components accounted for this. If you feel this may be a problem, you can always add filters. When it comes to wood and flammability.If you take the time to make sure all connections are Isolated, and only use for its intention. You shouldn't have anything to worry about. When I use for charging, I am always present. You have to think, all homes are basically made from AC voltages and wires connected wit...

    see more »

    Both Power supplies(24v and Boost converter) are pretty good at EMI, and Both have protection in place. I am not 100% sure how they are built, but I have never had any type of interference with any equipment I use. This actually sits 2-3 feet from our living room tv, Internet, Wireless telephones and Bluetooth Speaker system. Never had any issues. I am sure the people that designed both components accounted for this. If you feel this may be a problem, you can always add filters. When it comes to wood and flammability.If you take the time to make sure all connections are Isolated, and only use for its intention. You shouldn't have anything to worry about. When I use for charging, I am always present. You have to think, all homes are basically made from AC voltages and wires connected with only wire nuts. Where More electricity is flowing through them then this simple little charger. Soldering and Isolating the wiring safely, and I doubt you would ever have an issue. That don't mean you won't. Nobody can predict this. I just feel safer knowing I personally took my time to put together, than purchasing a plastic charger from a store. But again, I am no expert and this is just my personal opinion. But nothing is 100% safe, and with all electronics, you run the same risks.Electricity is no Joke and should never be taken lightly.Thanks for your comments!

    Sorry for the late response, for some reason I just got the email with your question. Great Question!!This is just a guestimate. Most of this, I had left over from a previous build and finally found a use for the higher voltage. Here is what I am guestimating-MingHe 900Watt DC to DC Boost Converter 8-60V to 10-120V 15Amp Max--->$18AC DC Inverter 110V 220V 100V-265V to 24V 6Amp (9amp max) Switching Power Supply SMPS Adapter-->12$(make sure to buy the same one in the post, so many version out there.)LM2596 DC-DC Buck adjustable Step-down Power Supply Module-->1$, (purchased a bulk order for 10 at 10$)Mini DC 0-100V 3-Wire Voltmeter Blue LED-->$1.50Mini DC 3.3-30V 2 wire Voltmeter Blue LED-->$1.5016 AWG Black and Red Silicone Wire-->$1 worth(purchased at another time-5 fe...

    see more »

    Sorry for the late response, for some reason I just got the email with your question. Great Question!!This is just a guestimate. Most of this, I had left over from a previous build and finally found a use for the higher voltage. Here is what I am guestimating-MingHe 900Watt DC to DC Boost Converter 8-60V to 10-120V 15Amp Max--->$18AC DC Inverter 110V 220V 100V-265V to 24V 6Amp (9amp max) Switching Power Supply SMPS Adapter-->12$(make sure to buy the same one in the post, so many version out there.)LM2596 DC-DC Buck adjustable Step-down Power Supply Module-->1$, (purchased a bulk order for 10 at 10$)Mini DC 0-100V 3-Wire Voltmeter Blue LED-->$1.50Mini DC 3.3-30V 2 wire Voltmeter Blue LED-->$1.5016 AWG Black and Red Silicone Wire-->$1 worth(purchased at another time-5 feet for $10)10 AWG Black and Red Silicone Wire-->1$ worth(purchased at another time-5 feet for 14$)12 AWG Black and Red Silicone Wire-->1$ worth(purchased at another time-5 feet for 12$)10 AWG White Silicone Wire-->1$ worth(purchased at another time- 5 feet for 14$)5.5MMX 2.1 2 Pin Female Power Jack-->.50 cents(purchased at another time-20 for 10$)Haitronic 20cm Jumper Wires/Dupont Cable-->50 cents(purchased 120 at another time for 8.50$)VOSO Amplifier Speaker Terminal Binding Post Banana Plug-->$5Kester Solder 24-6040-0027 60/40 Stand 0.031(costed me 21.99 a few months back)Kester 951 & 186 Liquid Flux(costed me $9.99 a few months back)Mis. Shrink Tubing Sleeves(costed me around $6 a few months back)ON/OFF/ON 3 Positions SPDT Round Boat Rocker Switch 10A/125V 6A/250V-->.25 cents(purchased 50 a few months back)The 3 prong Mains AC Female, The AC with Light Power switch & 12V Fan was salvaged from a broken Computer Power Supply.(free from someone's throwaways)4 x Red Cap SPST Momentary Mini Push Button Switch (Normally Open)-.10 cents each(purchased a huge bag for $10 a few months back)4 x 1/4in Maple Board from the local Hardware Store-->$38 x 1/4in Maple Board from the local Hardware Store-->$3Clear Coat Spray from the local Hardware Store-->$51/4 in plexiglass from the local Hardware Store-->left overs, but each sheet was around $3M5 Bolts and Nuts set Mis from the local Hardware Store-->$10 for a huge lot of mis,Mis screws salvaged from other projects.(Free)Gorilla Superglue and Wood Glue from the local Hardware Store -->$5I am sure you could find the parts cheaper. Most of mine was purchased in the states for quicker delivery. I am starting to realize purchasing my Mis. parts and pieces from China is way way cheaper and well worth the wait. Total guestimated cost-->>$40 to $55 and that is being generous on ebay. Most of the items I had left over from previous builds. Thanks for the question!

    Thanks again for the tips! On my next project, I may play around with the PMMA. I haven't ran into the issues you mentioned yet. But I have only been doing this for under a year. My First project used the Lexan and it has held up pretty well(hacked, bench PSU from a computer PSU). For me, it just seems to cut easy, bend when I heat it pretty well. When I cut it to size, I just use a Plexiglass cutter and sometimes a sharp knife. Then I snap it on a straight surface. I use a dremel on the small square cutouts. My only gripe-If you don't have a sharp drill bit, I have seen it crack all the across what I was working on, destroying all my work. Until I discovered step bits. Now I haven't really had this issue. I guess I just like the cheaper price compared to plexiglass(newbie and learning)...

    see more »

    Thanks again for the tips! On my next project, I may play around with the PMMA. I haven't ran into the issues you mentioned yet. But I have only been doing this for under a year. My First project used the Lexan and it has held up pretty well(hacked, bench PSU from a computer PSU). For me, it just seems to cut easy, bend when I heat it pretty well. When I cut it to size, I just use a Plexiglass cutter and sometimes a sharp knife. Then I snap it on a straight surface. I use a dremel on the small square cutouts. My only gripe-If you don't have a sharp drill bit, I have seen it crack all the across what I was working on, destroying all my work. Until I discovered step bits. Now I haven't really had this issue. I guess I just like the cheaper price compared to plexiglass(newbie and learning). Thanks again for the comment and the quick Tip! I will give the other stuff a try on my next project. It sounds like I will probably like it more than the stuff I am using now?

    You are correct. I like to use this on anything I make, where you will be looking through to see the components.This is why I will use wood for the outside or Frame. Then I try to make sure there is a support other than the frame, so when I plug and unplug the banana plugs, it stays sturdy. On this unit, It is also using the plastic lid as a stabilizer of sorts. I like to use the thicker stuff when I am building a box and the plexiglass is the only stabilizer. I wasn't sure of the name, the reason I called it plexiglass. Was just some leftovers from an older project. Thank for the FYI!Don't get me wrong, this may not be the best way of doing this. But it seems to work on this particular project. I am sure you could use both if only one or the other is available.Thanks for commenting and...

    see more »

    You are correct. I like to use this on anything I make, where you will be looking through to see the components.This is why I will use wood for the outside or Frame. Then I try to make sure there is a support other than the frame, so when I plug and unplug the banana plugs, it stays sturdy. On this unit, It is also using the plastic lid as a stabilizer of sorts. I like to use the thicker stuff when I am building a box and the plexiglass is the only stabilizer. I wasn't sure of the name, the reason I called it plexiglass. Was just some leftovers from an older project. Thank for the FYI!Don't get me wrong, this may not be the best way of doing this. But it seems to work on this particular project. I am sure you could use both if only one or the other is available.Thanks for commenting and the FYI, I will make sure to change the Parts list when I get to my Computer.

    View Instructable »
  • njfulwider5 followed DIY KING 00 and GreatScottLab2 months ago
      • DIY Bladeless Fan From Scratch
      • DIYers PVC Organizer Workbench/Table
      • DIY Classic Hour Glass
      • DIY Peristaltic Pump
      • Make Your Own Spy Bug (Arduino Voice Recorder)
      • Make Your Own Crude Cocktail Machine