This project is more of a basic RD6006 Build using a S06A case and a S-400-60 Power supply. But I really want to have the choice of connecting a battery for portability or Power outage. So I also Hacked or Moded the Case to accept DC in or a Battery as you see in the video. I like to have my lab capable of AC and DC when needed. It makes it easy to keep working if by chance we have a power outage. I have Mod other cases made by RD Tech, but nothing like this. In this Build I Mode the case to take Banana Jacks for DC in, I add a fuse and a power switch. I also had to figure out a way to protect the Power supply when using DC power. I have no affiliation with RD Tech or Ruideng.

This build wouldn't have been possible without the partnership of JLCPCB. One of the cheapest Largest Manufacturers in China! Get your 2$ PCB at JLCPCB here-https://jlcpcb.com/

One of the Key Subjects I mention in the video is the cost. This is not a cheap Power Supply unless you don't mind the wait from China. Purchasing in the States and getting in less than a week, the cost is around 170$. 80$ for the RD6006-W, 50$ for the S06A Case and 35$ for the S-400-60, this included shipping and the taxes brought it to around 175$. You could order from China and get the RD6006-W for 58-74$, The Case for 32-40$ and the PSU for 35$(total cost of 127$), but that is not including shipping as you can pay up to 100$ for expedited services. While the cost is rather high, this is very low for a Power supply like this. You would need to decide for yourself. Here are the links(Non-affiliated)

Supplies

RD6006-W, RD6006 and S06A case(China)-

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000437907132.html

RDTech BangGood Site for the RD6006-W-

https://usa.banggood.com/RD6006-or-RD6006-W-Digita...

RDTech S06A-

https://usa.banggood.com/Digital-Power-Supply-Case...

Recommend Power Supply By RDTech-

https://usa.banggood.com/Switching-Power-Supply-40...

Amazon Site I purchased at RD6006-W(USA)-

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0814RLJZP/ref=p...

S06a-

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083LTDDSK/ref=p...

S-400-60-

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BRR6YLL/ref=p...

4mm Banana Plugs Sockets for Arduino (10 Pair)

https://www.amazon.com/MCIGICM-Banana-Plugs-Socket...

5x20mm Fuse Holder 10A/15A Panel/Chassis Mount Screw-Off Type (jcx) (4 Pack)-

https://www.amazon.com/CESS-5x20mm-Holder-Chassis-...

Heavy Duty Rocker Toggle 15A 250V 20A 125V SPST 2Pin ON/Off Switch Metal Bat Waterproof Boot Cap Cover-5 Pack-

https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Rocker-Toggle-Switc...

15amp Diode Axial Schottky Blocking Diodes for Solar Cells Panel,15SQ045 Schottky(20Pcs)

https://www.amazon.com/AKOAK-Schottky-Blocking-Dio...

14 Gauge Silicone Wire 10 ft red and 10 ft Black Flexible 14 AWG Stranded Copper Wire

https://www.amazon.com/BNTECHGO-Silicone-Flexible-...

And odd and pieces I may have laying around the lab!

Step 1: Unbox, Inspec and Mark All Parts and Pieces for the RD6006-W,S06A and S-400-60

Like most projects I start, I like to inspect all the parts I will use, even if I don't plan to use them. With the S06A, it came with all the Cables connectors, Fans, Plugs and AC switches need for the build. I also like to mark them when they come in baggies like this. I mark each baggy by where they will be used. This makes it easier when you go to throw them together. I also inspected all connections as these were crimped by the company.

Step 2: Mark and Drill Holes for the DC Mod on the Case

I like to use masking tape to mark and drill. This helps if for any reason I mess up on centering. After placing the tape on the case, I added the AC parts and marked the areas where they stuck out or where they might be in the way. Then I drew a centerline. I knew for the DC, I would need a switch, fuse, and 2 banana Jacks. I drew the centerline on the tape, where I just evenly placed the Fuse and Banana Jacks. I also decided to place the switch on the side next to the fan. So I found the center and marked it on the Tape. Using Calipers, I found the size needed for each hole and wrote it next to the hole. With my drill and starting with the smallest bit I had. I drilled it up to around 1/8 inch. Then I used a step bit and drilled out the holes to the size I marked. I wanted to make the Mod look like it was always there or as clean as possible.

Step 3: Cut Silicon Wire to Length and Add Ends & Connectors, Solder or Crimp

I did not write up a diagram or schematic. Only because the wiring is very simple. From the Negative Banana Jack, it connects to the Power supply(S-400-60). From the Positive Banana jack, it connects to the fuse, and then to the Power switch. From the Switch, it connects to the back of the RD6006. The Blocking Diodes are placed in series to double the voltage it can take(64.5V out from the PSU). The diodes will get connected to the Positive of the Power Supply(S-400-60)and then connected in Parallel to the Positive of the DC Switch, and Positive of the fan Buck converter(all 3 connect to the back of the RD6006). The other Positive from the RD6006 will meet the 3 positives. The Negative will just get connected directly to the Power supply(S-400-60), same with the Fan Buck Converter. The Diodes are there to Protect the Power Supply from any Back feed voltage when connected to a battery. The DC switch I added will protect the battery from any back feed DC from the S-400-60 if I decide to leave a battery connected. It must remain off, if connected to ac power and on.

So I wanted to do very little soldering when adding the parts. So after cutting each wire to length. I added the end that matched where they would be connecting to. Only soldering will be later when I solder the fan positive to the Positive of the switch. Please contact me if you need a schematic. Now I am ready to connect all parts.

Step 4: Add All DC & AC Panel Mount Parts With the DC Wiring Created Earlier

Unscrew the top of the case to get to the inside. Make sure to clean up any burrs from the drilling of the DC holes earlier. There should be 2 screws on each side.

Starting with the Banana jacks I add to the case. Next, I add the fuse and connect the smaller wire to the red banana jack. Then I added the power switch and connected the longer wire from the fuse to its bottom screw terminal. Later I add the negative wire to the negative banana jack and the main power to the switch. You have to add the DC parts First.

Add all the AC parts next without the wiring. The AC switch snaps in. The AC plug is screwed in with the bolts and screws I tagged earlier. The fan is also bolted in. I used superglue to hold the nuts in place before adding bolts. Make sure the Fan wire is on the btm.

Step 5: Add the S-400-60 and Connect the AC Wiring

Finding the screws I tagged earlier, I set and screw on the power supply. This Case has holes perfect for this model. Starting with the wiring I tagged earlier. I added the Live wire to the Fuse side of the plug and then the top of the AC switch. Then I added the Live Wire to the switch and connected to the Power supply. Connect the Neutral from the plug into the Power supply and did the same with Ground. Figured while I was in there, I would also connect the negative from the banana Jack. This is a very tight fit for anyone with big hands. Kinda hard to add the wiring to the S-400-60. It may be easier for someone like me(big huge fingers) to leave the power supply unscrewed until you add the wiring. Also make sure to double-check you are connecting the Live, Neutral and ground to the correct terminal on the power supply.

Step 6: Connect the AC and Adjust to 64.5V

The RD6006-W needs to have a voltage of 1.1V higher than 60 so you get the full 60V usage. I also had to take into account the Voltage drop of the 2 diodes in series. At Max amperage, the Vdrop would be 0.55V x 2. Make sure before you plug in and Test, you switch the 115-230V switch on the side. If you're in the states, you need to make sure to switch it to 115V. Once I connect to AC and Turned on, the voltage read 60.5V. I adjust the little potentiometer next to the led and it went higher than 70V. But I only want to go to 64.5. This should give me an end voltage of 63.75-63.5V going into the RD6006-W. Once adjusted, I turned off and unplug the AC cord.

Step 7: Connect the Fan Converter to the Case and Finish the DC Wiring

Using the remaining black screws from the feet. Attach the Fan Converter and connect the negative to the negative terminal of the S-400-60. You can also connect the main negative. Then take the Positive from the Fan converter and cut the connector off, and solder to the positive of the DC power switch. The Positive connector with the diodes has a thicker wire at the end and all three connections can be placed inside of a screw terminal block. Then the main Positive wire can be cut according and added to the other side. Once complete, add a shrinking tube for protection. Connect the fan to the fan converter. Connect the terminal block from the RD6006-W. Make sure you connect the polarity correct. Add the face(main RD6006-W). Keep in mind the face is very very tight and can be a pain to get in. Once the face is placed in the hole, connect the terminal blocks and make sure the polarity is correct again. Plugin the temperature probe and direct the cable through one of the holes in the bottom of the case(Bad design, and maybe and upgrade later as I mentioned in the video).

Step 8: Do Some AC Test and DC Testing Before Finishing and Adding the Top of the Case

Figured while I had the Top off, I would do some Testing. First I tested the AC. I got an overall voltage of 63.88V, and this allowed me to use the full 60V setting. I also tested the diodes under load with no heat up at all. Next, I turned off and disconnected the AC. I plugged in a 10S3P 8ah lithium Ion Battery and Plugged into the banana Jacks. Fliped the DC switch and it worked also. I doubled check to make sure the diodes were there blocking and no heat up. While I had it on, I noticed that the time, Date or Memory did not stick and realized it required a small Lithium Battery(CR1220). So before adding the top, I purchased and added the battery. Clock works perfectly even with no power, it keeps time along with memory. I then finished up the inside by cleaning the wiring up, using Zipties. Last I added the top and found a place for the new Power Supply in my lab.

Step 9: Use and Enjoy the New Power Supply and Added Mod

I did not do much testing as I could in no way explain in detail the way "Jerry Walker" has on his channel. Probably the best I have seen on Youtube. I also couldn't explain the Operation of better than "RD Tech" did himself on his channel. I would not do this justice. I will leave both links to those guys' channels below.

Thanks again JLCpcb!!!$2 For 5 PCBs & Cheap SMT(2 Coupons): https://jlcpcb.com/

Jerry Walker-https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCGkakWu37P6CuzIZb...

RD Tech(creator)-https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCy73jJ5-ZqhPzT7wJ...

njfulwider5(Tons of Awesome DIY Projects)-https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCohzN-bDShGlmb7NS...

So Far I really like this Power Supply and I can't wait to learn more as I go. The Mod was one of the easiest you can do. I only had to add a few parts and pieces to make this case a DC case also. I really appreciate you guys reading and watching my instructable. Make sure to watch the video also!! Don't forget to Subscribe and Share!! Thank you all!!!!