Introduction: Cardboard AT-AT Walker Table

About: I am an junior in high school and a member of FRC team 95. I love tinkering and helped found the makerspace club/class at my school. I I love to work with wood, metal, clay, paper, yarn, fabric and gears. I am…

In this project I'll be giving you the basic idea of how to make an AT-AT walker table. I will be working with cardboard because it is a great demo, but it is super easy to transfer into wood or metal. this project is fairly simple to execute but will time and patience.

Step 1: Gathering Your Materials.

  • A lot of cardboard, about the amount that is in a refrigerator box. I used virgin cardboard from amazon. it is super easy to work with and is nice looking.
  • A very sharp box cutter with spare blades.
  • Copious amounts of hot glue. Tape will work as well, but will be difficult with the feet.
  • Compass with diameter readings, if you don't have one you can use a ruler and the radius.
  • Sharpies, pens, and pencils- wooden ones are best for this
  • Metal ruler
  • Paint of some form for decorating if you so desire, I choose to leave mine blank cardboard for this project.
  • Finally, most important, patience. If you don't give the project that this requires, it will turn out poorly and possibly unstable which, in a table is not acceptable.

Step 2: Dimensions of Parts, Ect

  • 8 - 6" diameter circles,
  • 8 - 5" diameter circles,
  • 16 - 3" diameter circles,
  • 8 - 3.5" diameter semicircles,
  • 8 - 2.5" diameter semicircles,
  • 16 - 11.5" x 1.5" rectangles,
  • 16 - 6.5" x 1.5" rectangles,
  • 1 - 10" x 18" rectangle,
  • 8 - 2"x1.5" rectangles, these will get slit through the top layer so they bend easily. the cut will be at about 1" up,
  • 4 - 9" x 2" right triangles,
  • 2 - 1.75 x1.75 inch right triangles,
  • 2 - cardboard circles like those from the inside of a duct tape roll,
  • 4 - 18" x 35" rectangles, these should be quality cardboard like that from the box of a fridge,
  • 4 - 6" x 7.25" rectangles,
  • 4 - 9" x 2.5" rectangles, these need a diagonal cut 7.25" long, .3" from the short side and 2" on the long side.
  • 2 - 1.5" x 6" rectangles
  • 2 - 9" x 7.5" rectangles,
  • 1 - 1/4" x 3.75" rectangle,
  • 2 - 3" x 5" x 7.5" triangles, number these 1 and 2 on the inside face
  • 2 - 2.5" circles,
  • 1 - polygon that is 10" at the base, 8" at the top, and 8 inches tall,
  • 1 - 1" x 4" rectangle,
  • 1 - 1.5" x 3" rectangle,
  • 4 - 1" x 7.5" x 7.25" triangles,
  • 1 - polygon that is 10" at the base, 8" at the top, and 7.5 inches tall,
  • 1 - polygon that is 4" at the base, 5" at the top, and 3.5 inches tall,
  • 1 - polygon that is 3" at the base, 4" at the top, and 2.5 inches tall,

Step 3: Assembling the Feet

For this step you will need to take the semi circles, the 6" and 5" circles, and 8 of the 3" circles.

Take two of the 6" circles and hot glue the large faces together. Then glue together the 5" and the 3" circles.

Do this for all of the remaining circles that you took from the parts pile.

Once all the circles have been glued into paris, make 4 piles, each containing a pair of 6", 5", and 3"

Then hot glue the 5" pair onto the 6" disk. Then glue the 3" disks onto the other side of the 5" disks. This will give you a ascending tier of disks 6 cardboard layers tall.

Then hot glue 2 semi-circles onto the top layer of each 3"circle so the bases of the semi circles are 1.25 inches apart.

Step 4: Building the Legs.

For this step you will need to set apart all the 1.5" wide rectangles and the remaining 8 3" circles

You will take the 11.5 inch strips. now hot glue this to the outside of the semi circles. You will get two long strips of cardboard protruding from the feet. take the hot glue and line the edges of the protruding strips. then lay another cardboard strip on the hot glue, over the two edges. Repeat on the other side to give a uniform box protruding from the foot. The angle that it protrudes doesn't really matter as long as it is pointing roughly upward. All four bottom legs should have different angles, this gives the impression that the ATAT walker is walking and not just standing still. This will also help with the stability of the finished product.

Next you will glue a 3" circle right at the top of the joint. Then flip the leg over and glue another 3" circle to make the leg symmetrical. The next part of the leg will go right between the 2 circles.

Take the 6.5" pieces and glue them on the long edge. piece them together, hot glue to hot glue, to make a ~ 1.5" x 1.5" x 6.5" box. This box will now get glue on one end, preferably on the widest faces that oppose each other. Fit the hot glued box into the gap made by the two circles and adjust all of them to about the same height. You will want all the legs, while standing flat, to be within 1/2" of each other height wise, in engineering terms, a 1/2" tolerance.

The 2" rectangles that are split down the middle, these get trimmed until they can barely fit between the knee joints. They need to be bent so that they point outward and glued into the joints, hiding the crack between the upper leg and the lower leg.

I recommend doing the legs one at a time. This will allow you to keep better track of the legs parts, and to be a little more precise.

Step 5: Mounting the Base of the Body

You will need to set aside the 10" x 18" rectangle, the 3.5" semicircles, the 1.75" right triangles, the 2.5" x 9" irregular polygons.

Grab the 18" rectangle. Mark a line 3/4" on the 18" edge on both sides. This will tell you where to mount the first semi circles. Mark a line on the short side 1" from the edge on both sides. This part will become the bottom of the ATAT walker.

Hot glue 4 semi circles onto the project, one in each corner. The corners of the semicircles will be in the corners formed by the lines. The semicircles need to be pointing up.

Next stand the legs where you want them and in the order you want them. The tops of the legs should be in about the same spot. Place the large cardboard rectangle on top of the legs, Pull the legs outward until the tops of the legs meet the inside of the semicircles. Take the remaining semicircles and hot glue them to the bottom of the ATAT walker. Important!!! DO NOT glue the semicircles to the legs. Once the glue has set remove the bottom of the ATAT walker.

Get a level or something that rolls easily like a pingpong ball. Replace the bottom of the ATAT walker onto the legs, putting the tops of the legs between the semicircles. Shift the angle around with your level/pingpong ball until it is showing that it is level. Now glue 1 leg in place by pulling that one out from under the bottom. Coat the top of the sides, with the circle joint, with hot glue, now place the leg back between the semicircles and hold until the glue sets/cools. Re-level the bottom, and repeat for the rest of the legs.

Take the 6" rectangles and cut them short until they just barely fit between the internal semicircles at the front and the back. Hot glue them in. These will provide lateral support.

Glue the 2.5" ends on the the polygons together. This will give you a really long polygon. Mount this to the 18" side of the ATAT bottom, helping to hide the leg starts. Repeat for the other side.

The 1 3/4 right triangles get glued to the bottom of the bottom of the ATAT walker providing support to the polygons on both sides.

Step 6: Mounting the Armor for the Body.

Set aside the 9" x 7.5" rectangles and the 6" x 7.25" rectangles, the 7.25" x 7.5" triangles, the polygon that is 10" at the base, 8" at the top, and 8 inches tall, and the polygon that is 10" at the base, 8" at the top, and 7.5 inches tall.These will become the housing for the table supports.

The 6" rectangle will get glued on the 18" edge facing upward, tall as they can get. one for each corner of the ATAT walker. The tops of the should be about 4" apart in the center of the Walker.

Find the side that you have designated as the front on your ATAT. if you haven't done this already, figure out what end looks like the front based off of the leg position. Now go to the back of the ATAT and draw a line on both 6" sheets. It should start 1 inch from the end of the top and go down diagonally until it meets the very back edge. Cut down this line to give the back end a slightly sloped look. Take the longer of the two remaining polygon and hot glue the bottom and the two adjacent sides. Put this between the back to 6" panels. The panels should need to be pulled wider for it to fit. This piece should also be at an angle to match the the cut on the 6" panels.

Take the shorter polygon and attach it to the front in a similar manner except that the polygon should be completely vertical. If you wither of the pieces show cracks between them and the sides, make a small triangle about the same size as the ones you have set aside for this step. Hot glue this on an angle of about 45 degrees, covering the crack, repeat for the front and the other side. This mini-step is an all or nothing type step.

Now take your remaining triangles and glue them so that the 7.25" piece is on the outside of the 6" piece with the 3rd side pointing up. this needs to be on the inside end of the part. (look at picture 2 for further clarification if I've confused you) Do this for all the 6" pieces.

Finally coat the 9" side of the remaining rectangles and the 2 shorter sides. Mount this onto the 2 triangle you just attached with the 9" hot glued side pointing downward.there should a small amount of overlap.

Step 7: Building the Head

You will need all the remaining pieces except for the 4 large sheets.

Take the the largest polygon and use this as the base. Hot glue the 2 pieces numbered 1 and 2 so the 2 numbers face inward.The long face should be meeting the long edges on the bigger piece. These two pieces will be modified later to fit the small detail of the head.

Hot glue the large triangle to the head. In my pictures it is a rectangle b/c i wasn't sure what would look best yet.

Hot glue the 2 circles onto the sides of the head. Then hot glue the gun shaped pieces onto these. Cut a piece of cardboard to fit in the back/wider end of the head. The top needs to be flush so that the top of the head will fit on properly. Hot glue the the piece that is about 3" x 5" onto the back of the head lining up the angles so it fits onto the top of the head with little or no overlap. From the edge of this make a cut going down about 1" and out to the nose, ending about 1.5" above the chin.

Hot glue the piece that fits to the cut. It should be about 1" x 4". Then hot glue the piece of 1.5" x 3" onto the front of the head. Right above where the nose would be if it was a dog. Glue the remaining small polygon on.

If you so desire now, is the time to add a visor. I didn't record the dimensions because this is really personal opinion on the size and whether or not it should be included.

Take the cardboard inner tubes and hot glue them together. You will have a long cardboard tube about 5" long. Take the ends and cut them so the tube has a slight sloping cut on both sides. Hot glue one end to the back of the head.

Step 8: Adding Structural Support/ the Table/ Adding the Head

This piece is kind of hard. The internal support for the body and the table need to be customized for every ATAT walker.

Measure the distance on the inside of armor plating, from the floor to the top of the plates. If the top of the plates are not flat, take a box cutter or really sharp scissors and cut the top to be level.

Cut strips that will just fit in to the inside of the armor height and are about 3' long. Fold these up and fit them into the armor of the ATAT walker. They should have a kind of crooked look to them. Once they all are bent and lie flush with the surface, then remove them and hot glue them in.

Take the head of the ATAT walker and put hot glue on the remaining edge of the tube, mount this to the front of the ATAT walker in the middle and about 1.5" up. This will give the impression of the walker looking down.

Take the remaining cardboard sheets, These will become the table. Stack the 4 sheets on top of one another. Then tape the top layer, overlapping the very edge to give a laminated look. The very edge of the cardboard will get taped down holding down the loose ends and holding the cardboard sheets together.

The sheets will get attached as the table top. Right in the middle of the back. The table should over hang the head to look good, but this will make it less balanced. It will not flip over, but will be more susceptible to unbalance. The trick to attaching this is placing the table top, and then hot gluing the underside where it meets the armor.

Step 9: Finalizing, Adding a Foot Base, Trimming, Ect..

These are all optional now.

Adding a foot base helps with weight bearing but is not necessary. To add one, set the ATAT walker on one piece of cardboard, this should be large enough for all of the feet to fit on it comfortably. Trace around the feet about 1" out. then connect the circles together with large sweeping curves. Look at the picture for reference.

Trimming entails taking scissors and just running over all of the edges cutting back on the little fuzzies and stray hot glue threads.

Painting would be done now as well.


Cardboard Contest 2017

Second Prize in the
Cardboard Contest 2017