Introduction: Cat Puzzle Feeder


Wooden Materials: They can be bought and cut at a local hardware store (Home Depot, Lowes, etc.)

  • 3 (1’10”) 2x4s
    • These will be referred to as A’s
  • 4 (1’6”) 1x4s
    • These will be referred to as B’s
  • 2 (1’) 1x4
    • These will be referred to as C’s
  • 1 1x4
    • This will be referred to as D
    • Any length smaller than the four 1x4s put together
  • 1 (1’11”) (1/2”) wooden dowel
    • This will be referred to as E
  • 3 *variable length* (1/2”) wooden dowel
    • These will be referred to as F’s
    • Length depends on angle of the ramp, I did three feet each
  • 1 8” 1x4
    • This will be referred to as G

Other Hardware Items:

  • 3 hook screws
  • 3 eye screws
  • 14 (1 1/2”) screws
  • 6-9 (1”) nails
  • Drill
    • Phillips head screw tip
    • (5/8”) drill bit
  • Sandpaper (optional)
  • About 100ft of (1/4”) twine
  • Paint (to decorate, also optional)

Items found in General Stores (Wal-Mart, Target, etc.)

  • 3 plastic tupperware bowls that vary in size
    • One big, the next one smaller, and the last one even smaller
    • Lids are optional, I used a lid for the largest bowl
  • Rubber bands
  • X-acto knife/box cutter OR a long neck lighter
  • Hammer/metal file
  • Tape measure
  • Pencil
  • Cat bed (optional)
  • Dry cat food

Step 1: Make the Platform

Gather the four B’s, two C’s, and 8 screws. Line up the four B’s long wise, make sure they are even. Measure, using the tape measure, about 2.5” from the short edge. Place one of the C’s perpendicular to the B’s and drill a screw into each C for a total of four screws in each B. Repeat with the other side of the four C’s. This is now the underside of a platform.

Step 2: Drill a Hole and Attach It:

Take D and put it on top of a non-perishable surface. Put the (5/8”) drill bit into the drill and drill a hole into the center of the piece of wood. The center does not need to be exact. Switch out the drill bit with the Phillips screw head bit. Once that is done, place D in the middle of the underside of the platform (parallel to the B’s), and screw in one screw on each side.

Step 3: Attach the Legs:

On one side of the underside of the platform, before C on the outside, there will be two A’s, the other side will have one A. One of the two A’s will be on the first B, and the second A will be on the third B. On the other side, the last A will be attached to the second B. Flip the platform over so that it is right side up and attach each A like legs. Use one screw for each horizontal end of A (so one on the right side and one on the left).

Step 4: Hooks and Eyes:

On the one leg side of the platform, choose three consecutive B’s. Use your hands to screw in an eye hook into the middle of the side of B. Repeat this for two other B’s. Again, using your hands, screw in a hook screw into the top of one of the three F’s. Repeat with the other two F’s.

Step 5: Securing the Ramp:

You will need all three F’s, G, the tape measure, a pencil, and three nails. Lay G flat on the ground, and mark 3/4”, 4”, and 7 ¼” with a pencil. Using a hammer, nail in one nail into F which is perpendicular to G. Make sure the hook is facing down at the opposite side. Repeat this at the other marks for the other F’s. Nail in 1-2 more nails to make sure the F’s are secure to G. The nails do not specific measurements.

Step 6: Weaving the Twine:

Tie the twine at the bottom of one F. Hook the ramp in place with the table. Start to weave the twine through the F’s up to the hooks. If/when you run out of twine, you can either tie it to the previous twine. Or weave it up and down through the horizontal weaving lines you just made. When weaving up/down, it does not need to be perfect, it is just to hold the twine in place. To start the next twine, repeat the process but on the other side to prevent over tightening.

As you weave, do not pull so tight that the F’s bend in a lot. Bending will happen to an extent, but be aware of how much you are pulling as you weave. It is better to leave some slack. Attach tightened rubber bands to the ends of each F (near the hooks) and leave room to weave the last of the twine through the rubber bands to secure it. Weave vertically to secure the structure and cut off any excess.

Step 7: Holes in the Bowls:

Either using a box cutter, an x-acto knife, or a long neck lighter; you will be creating holes in the bottoms and sides of the different sized bowls. The first hole should be made in the center bottom of each bowl and the top lid (optional). This is where E goes through. Make the bottom holes about the size of the dry cat food you use. The side holes should be large enough to fit your cats paw.

If you are using the lighter, you will heat up where you want the holes to be, and then puncture anything through it to create a hole.


Step 8: Stacking the Bowls:

Tie rubber bands around E where you want the bottom of the bowls to sit. This ensures that the bowls do not slide down. Put each bowl and rubber band(s) on one at a time. The rubber bands can slide up and down to move wherever they are needed.

Step 9: Sanding and Hammering:

Sand down any edges that are sharp. If the nails have poked through any part of the table, hammer them down, or use a metal file to file down the points.

Step 10:

Step 11: Painting and Decorating (optional):

Paint and decorate your cat tower however you like.

Step 12: Piece Together:

Once the paint has dried, lift the table and insert F into the hole in D.

Step 13: Final Step:

Pour in some dry cat food in the top bowl. You may put a cat bed on the platform or put their food and water up there.