Cheap & Easy Sand Blaster Nozzle

Introduction: Cheap & Easy Sand Blaster Nozzle

Tired of blowing through nozzles for our sandblaster and throwing money away, we needed a good solid answer for a better way.  A member at Techshop (thanx Ken) gave us a great idea that gave us both a money saver and a longer lasting alternative.

Step 1: Getting Ready

Stuff Needed:

Old nozzle
De-burring tool
Tapered end mill
Steel tubing

Access Needed:

Horizonal Saw
Jet Mill

Thanx TechShop for the access

Step 2: Bringing It In

Using the calipers on the old nozzle, I took the dimensions of it, and ordered the correct size tubing from a local vendor (thanx speedy metals).  For our blaster, I needed a .25 ID and a .500 OD tube.  Since this was a test I only ordered a 9" piece.  

Then I was off to the saw to cut my pieces to length.

Step 3: Working the ID Form

Next, it was off to the mill.  Using the Vblock, I clamped the part in and used my tapered end mill to give me a relief at the back end of the nozzle.

Step 4: Boom There It Is

Use the de-burring tool on the ID and that's it.  The form on the front is for looks, so there is no real reason for me to pretty our version up.  Our nozzles went from costing just over 3 dollars to just under 2 dollars and they last longer with equal wear on the ID.

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    You may get a static build-up and discharge problem. I'm just guessing and thinking out loud. This does look like a good idea. I'm just wondering why the designers didn't start with a tougher material to begin with?


    Reply 6 years ago on Introduction

    Actually the designers intended that you would use ceramic nozzles. The problem was the careless members that were busting the nozzles. The steel ones work great, no static problems, you just need to rotate them every so often to get them to wear evenly.


    7 years ago on Introduction

    Forty years ago, to work on motorcycles, I built a bead blast cabinet and had to come up with a gun. A fellow that blasted glassware lent me his to duplicate. I did essentially what you did for the tip, but used 3/4" rod, center drilled and tapered for the nozzle. It took awhile but eventually it wore so big that pressure was lost and I would have to make another one. I suppose ceramic lasts longer, but mild steel got the job done.

    i did essentially