Cross Processing Film (an Analog [ Film ] Photography Guide)




Introduction: Cross Processing Film (an Analog [ Film ] Photography Guide)

About: I like cameras computers and the outdoors

Well There i was developing my Black and white film in the Photo lab In my High School , when something hit me. No it wasn't the tripod falling off the shelf, it was an idea. I had been reading the forums on some photo blogging websites on how people do some cross processing of film , and i decided to try it out on my own

In this Instructable i will be showing you how to cross process C-41 film using D-76 chemicals.
I will also be showing how to properly operate and expose the film


Step 1: The Camera

             I chose to use a Canon AE-1

            This camera is a SLR - which stands for - Single Lens Reflex . The SLR type cameras usually shoot 35mm film             which     comes in canisters that contain 12 , 24 , or 36 exposures ( unless otherwise specified )

        I chose to use a 50 mm F 1.8 Lens with my camera [ Not like i had a choice, i only have one lens , hahah]

        I particularly like the Fixed focal length lenses because they cannot zoom , this may not make sense at first, but         when     you have only one lens it makes you think more and focus more on the image and less on the settings.


                  Most SLR film cameras have a setting somewhere on the camera to adjust the film speed.
                  My camera has an adjustable dial inside of the shutter speed dial that goes from ASA-25 to ASA-3200
                   Just to clarify the terms ASA and ISO are basically interchangeable 
ASA - American Standards Assoc.
ISO - International Standards Org.

 They just describe how sensitive the film is to light 
EX.) an film that has an ISO or speed of 100 is twice as sensitive as a film that has an ISO of 50

Step 2: Film

For this Instructable you will be cross processing C-41 film (color film) in D-76 chemicals (black and white chemicals)

I wanted to try this because i knew from prior attempts, that you CAN NOT Develop black and white film in color chemicals

    I know this by taking one roll of the ultra fine extreme , shooting it, and trying to get it processed at my local C.V.S.
This did not work , the result was a completely blank film and there was no emulsion left at all.

So , if you were to try to duplicate the results (photo at end) you should use color film (C-41) developing, and develop in in
D-76 chemicals.

Step 3: The Developing ..... or Not

I have since graduated from the school where i did the film developing, an because of that i cannot show the exact manner in which i developed the film.

There are places where you can send out film to get it developed and if you do decide to do this, make sure first that they will accept film being cross processed.

Step 4: The Final Product

Well after all the work ( hoping and praying ) IT FINALLY WORKEDDDDDDDDD :)
When i got back into the dark room and before i actually saw the film i was freaking out .....
but what i got back was basically a sepia tone black and white Photograph

Question----- Will developing Color (C-41) film in Black and white chemicals (D-76 ) work


Result----- The negative as shown is a inverted scan of the original negative so if i had any Photoshop skills i may have been able to turn it into true black and white photograph....

well that's all for now folks Thanks for viewing My FIRST INSTRUCTABLE
yall have a good day now :)

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    1 year ago

    I tried X-processing two rolls of film. One Kodacolor 100 (100 ASA) and a Fujicolor C200 (200 ASA). As denelopper I used Fomadon LQN (from Foma) and Fomafix as fixer. It worked. I get a very fine grain, but more "cyanic" image but for my surprise there was some color in there! the red things get a little bit magenta...
    I developped it as it was a TriX 400.


    6 years ago

    Another neat trick is to process your own black and white REVERSAL slides! All you need is a strong developer (like Dektol) and a chromate based silver bleach such as "Edwal Tray Cleaner" plus the usual stop bath and fixer. Be sure to get the "old formula" tray cleaner. The new "no chromate" formula will not work.

    I've found that Tri-X works the best with this process.

    Expose the Tri-X normally (i.e. 400 speed), then process in Dektol the same as you would B&W paper. Then BE SURE to stop the development with stop bath. This is VERY important. Soak the film in the stop bath about twice as long as recommended.

    Next, open the developing tank and expose the film to light. Look at it. You will see a black negative image on tan colored, undeveloped emulsion.

    Now, immerse the film in the Edwal tray cleaner, diluted 1:4 (1 part from the bottle, 4 parts water) and bleach until all the black silver is gone (no more need for total darkness). Don't worry about overbleaching. But DO worry about UNDER bleaching since this will cause a low contrast, foggy looking positive image.

    Now, develop the remaining exposed positive image in the Dektol, then immerse the film in the fixer for the usual time.

    There is really nothing to "fix", but the fixer will neutralize the alkaline developer and harden the emulsion.

    Lastly, wash completely and dry.

    Be VERY careful handling the film since the two encounters with Dektol and the Edwal Tray Cleaner have made the emulsion VERY soft. Once it's dry though, it's OK to handle.

    Now cut the slides out, mount them in slide holders, break out the old Kodak Carousel Projector and admire your work!


    Reply 7 years ago on Introduction

    i was just looking around online a lot and seeing cross processed film , so i decided to give it a shot with what i had available to me :)


    8 years ago on Introduction

    @stechi , i just wanted to try , i had never cross processed film before but i heard allot about it